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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/18/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points

    Fuel film modelling in G4X line

    Accel fuel has been changed to a simplified X-Tau model
  2. 1 point

    Link Knock block

    I dont think I have ever seen a knock sensor fail. You will know when it is not working as you wont hear the engine noise in your ear anymore.
  3. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    AEM Water/Meth Boost Safe

    Can wire that wire into a digital input on the ecu. Then could configure the ecu to change boost, timing, and fuel values when that is active.
  4. 1 point

    Kiggly 12 tooth Crank trigger Setup

    The Offset figure will depend on which cam tooth has been removed. But this can be found relatively quickly when doing the timing calibration. Also note that you will need to change the wiring for the Tacho to a available Aux output on the ECU as in stock format it is driven from the crank signal on our plugin.
  5. 1 point

    rb25 no spark

    It comes down to the coil as to what the needed dwell is going to be. I would assume that table is for stock coils. If the dwell is too short you loose spark energy. If it is too long you risk overheating the coils. I would try increased dwell time and see if it improves. While keeping an eye on the coil temps.
  6. 1 point

    Wiring g1 plus into 4agze

    These are the old G1 docs for the 4AGZE. The loom colours changed over time so for the ECU wiring go off location in the main header. 4AGZE.pdf
  7. 1 point

    Falcon 5L cam and crank sensor connection?

    You can work out the polarity relatively easy with a volt meter. Put the leads across the sensor and then bring a steal ruler or bolt up to and then past the sensor. You are looking for a positive voltage spike as the item come towards the sensor and then negative as it moves away. If it is reversed then swap the meter leads over. The positive meter lead then indicates the trigger pin and the other is the sensor ground.
  8. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    ECUMaster CAN Lambda working ?

    Here is one i put together. It was done a few months ago with a pre-production unit, so might need to check that nothing has changed. HTH, Richard. EcumasterWBO.lcs
  9. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    input output change situation

    DBW will be dependent on board revision. AVCS, oil and fuel pressure shouldnt be an issue once you shuffle the I/O around. Turbo speed will work if you get a frequency divider as it will get higher than the digital input will allow.
  10. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    input output change situation

    You can use VVT (AVCS) on auxs 1 to 4 and vvt sensors on digital inputs 1 to 4, so you might need to move other functions off those pins. No, you can not reassign inputs to outputs or digital input to an analog input, you will need to repin. You can however reassign an analog input to a temperature input (you will need to add a pull up resistor as only temp. Inputs have these internally.) HTH, Richard.
  11. 1 point

    ECU for 1ZZ

    K's are stored on the cluster, if they're not showing there's likely a fuse blown. ECU is not needed for the heater to function
  12. 1 point

    Nissan speedo signal

    Google once again is your friend...
  13. 1 point

    Nissan speedo signal

    Sorry, I don’t normally use that pic host but sometimes have to when my normal one is not available. I’m overseas for a couple of weeks but should still have that pic at home or I can do the test again and redraw something. Give me a reminder in about 10 days.
  14. 1 point

    Trigger scope issue

    Ok, trigger 2 voltage is quite low so set trigger 2 arming threshold to 0.2v @ 0rpm and 0.5v @ 1000rpm. It would be strongly suggested to remove one tooth from the dizzy for the most robust triggering but it may run with the duratec mode. You will need to check trigger offset with a timing light.
  15. 1 point
    As CJ says it is most likely a wiring problem based on the dash lights. Quickest way to confirm the ecu is ok is to remove it from the car and power it up on the bench with a couple of test leads. Easiest way to power it up is to find the big barrel shaped tvs diode near the main header, clip +12v to the leg on the striped end and clip ground onto the other end. You will see the led light come on if all ok. The marks on the mosfets in your picture are just air bubbles or runs in the conformal coating.
  16. 1 point
    On subaru's the dash lights staying on after the key is turned off is usually caused by bad grounds, and it means a bunch of systems are grounding out through places they shouldnt be. The real question is why did your fuse blow? if you overloaded a circuit with too big of a stereo thats one thing, but if you have a short somewhere still in the car all kinds of things could be happening. do you see the power LED on the link light up when you turn the key on? have you checked power & ground to the ECU is still ok?
  17. 1 point

    Problem with Ecu log

    There is no easy way to create the transient timer filter that I can think of at present since tp delta is not available for use as a virtual aux condition. The only work around I can think of that I’ve used in the past for odd tricks is if you have an ecu with 2 CAN ports you can connect them together, send tp delta out of can 1 and receive it into can 2 as a CAN AN V then use that for your virtual aux.
  18. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    1994 sr20det to S15 LINK set up

    I think I made a link stream for the haltech wideband controller. I will have a look. Regards, Richard.
  19. 1 point

    Supercharged Lexus 3UZ

    Now running 12lbs. with a smaller blower pulley and nothing has come out the side. Yet......
  20. 1 point

    Accel Enrichment Calculations

    Both values are applied live as the operating point moves.
  21. 1 point

    Pedal Shifter G4+

    Typically done as a downshift blip. You will find this function in Gear shift control, overrun downshift throttle trim. Note it is not "rev matching", the purpose of the blip is to unload the dogs to allow it to change out of gear. It is typically trail and error, how much you need depends on a lot of factors such as the the size of the plenium, the mass of the rotating components, throttle size and how much back cut the dogs have.
  22. 1 point

    G4+ Fury Sequential shift cut

    Mapper, i have check my log and the cut stay On when the gear detected is 0
  23. 1 point

    Fury + ethrottle

    This is from an older model but may still be relevant:
  24. 1 point

    Mild ALS without air bypass

    You will get different override settings depending on if your idle valve aux outputs are set up for stepper motor or solenoid valve. In the case of an evo with a stepper motor the ISC override setting will be the number of steps from full open, so the smaller the number the more air flows (just like the idle base position table). Note the minimum clamp setting in ISC settings is always active so you may need to set this lower also.
  25. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Unlock code

    Try tech@linkecu.com
  26. 1 point

    Weird firing order

    Although it will run ok with the incorrect wiring, there are two significant negatives in my view: Because you have had to set the wrong firing order in the software but the injectors are wired "correctly" from the factory, it means your injectors are now firing in a different firing order to your coils so you have lost any performance advantage of sequential injection. It leaves the potential for someone to make a mistake in the future, especially if you want to do individual cylinder trims, knock control and also scenarios like testing injectors/coils when diagnosing problems is going to be difficult to interpret. It should take less than 10 minutes to swap the 3 pins at the ECU connector so I would strongly suggest you save yourself a potential f*ckup and correct the wiring.
  27. 1 point

    Share your Math Channel List

    VE Corrected = ( Lambda / Lambda Target ) * Fuel Table For open loop mode. VE Corrected = ( ( Lambda / Lambda Target ) * Fuel Table ) * ( (100 + CL Lambda Fuel Corr. ) / 100 ) Should be working for closed loop + open loop modes. I will confirm later.
  28. 1 point

    Weird firing order

    Having it wired incorrectly will cause confusion when trying to configure knock control.
  29. 1 point

    Bluetooth Adapter for Dash - Success

    I wanted to share my success using a bluetooth adapter since I have not seen any other posts about using one on this forum. So far I have only tested it with an Android tablet and RealDash. It has been working perfectly. Connection is fast and very reliable. There is no noticeable lag on the dash interface. There are a few advantages of using Bluetooth over USB for a tablet dash. 1) The usb port on the tablet is freed up to be used for charging (this can also be used to automatically turn the tablet on/off with key power) 2) The usb port on the ECU can be dedicated to the Laptop usb cable for tuning (dash cannot be used simultaneously with laptop, but less plugging/unplugging) This is assuming that your Link ECU has separate tuning and CANBUS ports. The Bluetooth Adapter I have been using is one made for Megasquirt MS2/MS3 – PerfectTuning is the manufacturer. https://perfecttuning.net/en/accessories/26-bluetooth-adapter-for-ms2-and-ms3.html There are a few other BT adapters for megasquirt, they are all likely the same Bluetooth chip and work the same. The Megasquirt uses a DB9 connector for serial connection, so that is what comes with the BT adapter. In order to connect to the Link you will need a Link CAN connector http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2 These connectors need to be soldered and can be somewhat difficult due to their small size. Cable pigtail is also available but fairly expensive. The following is the pinout on CAN connector, the BT DB9 connector and where those wires need to end up. This can be wired a few different ways. Either the DB9 connector on the BT adapter can be mated to with a female DB9, or it can be cut off and hardwired (or use a different style connector). The two serial wires will go to the CAN connector on the ECU (TX to RX, and vice versa). The 5v and GND wires will need to go to a 5v power source. Do not use the 5v supply from the ECU, the BT adapter can draw up to 30mA. 12V DC to 5V power supplies are very common, it is the same voltage as USB chargers. What I did was buy a USB charger and hardwire a USB cable pigtail to make the connection. I used and like this model: I recommend powering the 5v power supply from the ACC terminal (radio power) on the ignition switch. This way there is still power to the Bluetooth with the key in position 1 (ignition off). This will allow you to power cycle the ECU without killing power to the Bluetooth adapter – leaving it wirelessly connected to the tablet. This means that the dash will be live in about a second instead of 5-10sec. In order to use the tuning port to connect a laptop, either the CAN connector must be removed or a 2 pole switch/relay must be put on the serial wires coming from the CAN connector. The switch must be within about 20cm of the ECU, otherwise the serial stream may become active and not allow the laptop to connect. Once the laptop has been connected, the ECU must be restarted to allow the serial stream to become active again. Hopefully in the future this can be changed by Link so that the serial stream is reactivated upon laptop disconnect. If there is interest and the forum allows, I could possibly make and sell a plug-and-play Bluetooth solution for the Link G4+. Cost would likely be just a little more than the Perfect Tuning adapter. Here is a video of my dash on a “cold start” – Powered up and connected in less than 10 seconds. Realdash can be set to allow the tablet to sleep when charge power is killed from the tablet. It works well as a OEM style dash and I don’t need to manually touch the tablet at all. This is what the inside of the PT BT adapter looks like. Blue = 5v Orange = GND Grey = RX Yellow = TX
  30. 1 point
    Is there a timeline for the black storm?
  31. 1 point
    Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up. 1. Wiring Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference. 2. Initial settings Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band. Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees. Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting) 3. Cylinder balancing Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others. So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder. You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34 See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible. You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1. 4. Non knock noise levels Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too. The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine. According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha. So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want) Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle) Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global. Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too. Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock. At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock. Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want: Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine. So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working. From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me) Hopefully it all makes sense though Where are you based / what is the car used for? Keen to hear how you get on.
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