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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2015 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Guys relax a bit. I've mapped and I'm supporting several 600-800hp 2.0 to 2.3l time attack engines/cars with a Link ECU and multimap strategy. Such an engine runs usually for 5000 race track kilometers until a rebuilt is needed. That's a similar distance to a 24h race. I like to answer your question.: All LINK ECU use the same PC-Software and the same Firmware. The main difference between all LINK G4+ ECU's is only the hardware. your tuner should tune the main Fuel and ign Maps from the lowest to the highest boost levels. There are 3 main Boost Maps in the LINK ECU. You can additionally span one of the axis of the Boost Wastegate or Target table to a driver Rotary Switch. So it's possible to have up to 33 different boost maps, which all can be switched on the fly. On top of that, you can activate 4D fuel and ignition tables on one or several of the boost maps. This allows trimming Ignition and Fuel on some maps if you or your tuner like to do that. The Link Ecu is really flexible. Usually, the only limit what you can do is the creativity of the tuner. As an example, we installed 3 rotary switches in a Time Attack/ Hillclimb car. One 12-Position Rotary Switch is used to choose between 12 different torque maps (mainly altered by boost strategy). The Launch RPM can be chosen over another 12-Position Switch, depending on whether and Track conditions. And lastly, we have a 3-Position Rotary Switch to choose one of 3 Drive by wire Throttle Maps. For engine Safety, we set up Limits for too low and to high Coolant temp, Oil temp, Oil press and Fuel press. We are also using full time closed loop lambda and sending a lot of Data over a custom CAN. As you see, the LINK is a very capable system. But as every ECU, it needs a capable tuner to use it properly.
  2. 3 points

    CANBUS OIL Temp from AN8

    Hi Mark, I suspect the problem is your oil temp sensor being on a AV input is not actually assigned to the "oil temp" parameter but rather a "GP Temp" parameter that is not sent in the standard generic dash stream. Attached below is a configurable version of the generic dash stream where I have replaced "oil temp" with AN 8 - Oil temp. MarkHellier.lcs For any others that want it I will also attach an un-modified configurable generic dash stream. Configurable Generic Stream.lcs
  3. 3 points

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts... Hardware: For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time. However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first. Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive. To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect. Setup: Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well. The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across. Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet. Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/ It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing). As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu. Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both). Realworld Performance: You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery). It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.
  4. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  5. 2 points

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  6. 2 points

    Engine protection question

    Note you can also make your main RPM limit table 3D to add extra parameters. Fuel pressure protection for instance if you use Differential pressure it should be relatively constant under all conditions so you dont need a full 3D table - you could just put it on one axis of the RPM limit table.
  7. 2 points
    Hey, I think this might have been suggested before. But once you start to understand the wall wetting concept, it starts to explain a lot of other concepts which are described seperately in the current software. Example - accel enrichment compensates for changes in wall wetting, but in a fairly crude manner. Cold start cranking enrichment is essentially compensating for fuel film build up over the initial cranking period on a cold engine, and the long time period of "tau" on a cold motor. Fuel cut on decel doesnt really go into this, but if there was awareness of the fuel film depleting during this period then "accel enrichment" would naturally increase again after decel fuel cut. It feels like if this was modelled many of the other enrichment features etc could be done away with or minimised. Here's a great article on it. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/xtau.htm
  8. 2 points

    MX5 Fuel pump always on

    closing this out for the last time! for MX5 NA 1989 1.6 I got a heap of those connectors from Mouser. I rewired fuel pump to be on Aux 5. I wired the purge solenoid back up to Aux 7 and now use the purge solenoid as a cold start air device - small air filter on one opening, other to the inlet manifold, and solenoid activated below 40C. works a treat! also had the separate questions around the AF gauge and where to tap the 12V feed from to only be on when engine is running. Wanted this as when downloading big ECU logs, or fiddling with link, the ECU needs to be on for a while but not engine running, which meant in the old configuration, the AF sensor heater was also on - not good for longevity. Turns out the correct wire is the Blue/Red on the fuel pump relay (yellow re;ay and connector) up above the accelerator. hope this helps someone else in future!
  9. 2 points
    I always tune RB26's with TPS as the main fuel load table. I even use it as the main load on the ignition table with a 4d map for boost correction. I find it makes them much snappier. You are getting fairly low in the injector pulsewidth at idle. It is possible that the dynamics of your particular injectors are not consistent enough at that low of a pulsewidth. You could try to change the 1000 rpm cell at 5.8 psi in your Target AF table to 13.8 or so. If its a low pulsewidth issue this may stabilize it a bit. It seems to be maintaining idle fairly well in the log. Blaine Carmena Carmena Performance
  10. 2 points

    DIY vipec display

    Haven't forgotten about this, car still in storage for about another month
  11. 2 points

    G4+ subaru wrx V7-10 plugin is a dud

    Wildwestaussi1 think best is if you just leave this forum. A forum is there to help out each other. Only thing you are doing is blaming products and other tuners. If you are incompetend to install and setup such a highend ECU, just don't touch anything and take the car to one of the LINK ECU Tuners you can find on the website. And before you are calling everyone an idiot; I'm a professional Tuner and worked with LINK ECU's on Subaru's for several years. I came never across such a problem you descripted. As you statet, there was alot going on with this engine/car before you have got your hands on. So go and search there for a fault, but don't blame a great ECU manufacturer!
  12. 2 points

    Toyota 1zz-fe base map

    The Dash Cluster temp meter is fed direct from the ECU, it will always read cold with every aftermarket ECU apart from Kaizen Garage's ZZE/ZZT Adaptronic based plugin which has an additional circuit onboard to convert the signal to one the cluster can accept. The stock ECU outputs it's engine coolant temperature signal for the dash cluster from pin B-17, on the 22 pin ECU plug. PCB pin THWO. You can trace the signal with an oscilloscope using the stock ECU from dead cold to operating temp and then use an audrino or similar to create a module that will convert one of the vipec outputs to a signal the same as stock the cluster can interpret The narrowband sensor is quite useless, please replace it with a wideband setup You will need to tune all the idle base position tables etc from scratch
  13. 2 points

    Honda K20A base map

    Hi Niv, I don't have a base-map. The PCLink help file contains some info for this engine, have a look at: PCLink Help > Engine Specific Information > Honda > Honda K20PCLink Help > Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-throttle > Specific E-Throttle Applications > Honda K20 - 60mm.Scott
  14. 2 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    AEM MAP and IAT Sensor

    Hi, I haven't forgot about this project. I have been very unwell with extreme pain for the last couple of weeks. I am on large doses of very powerful pain medication, so my brain doesn't work correctly while under the influence and it makes me sleep a lot. I have just come back from the doctors again for different medication again, tonight. I have been working on the PCL file for this along with a few other jobs. I needed to know how much boost he wants to run for many reasons, boost cuts, boost control target tables etc, working out what his final fuel pressure will be with static pressure plus full boost pressure etc. Spanning the Y axis on Fuel and Ignition tables and any other tables that will be MAP,MGP etc based AXIS. The more information I can gather the easier it is to set things up. Setting up PCL files for cars that aren't in front of you is quite difficult hence for the many questions. Yes , you are all correct, I DO NOT WORK FOR ViPEC. I enjoy helping others where possible. When I first started I could only ask a random question here or there, I didn't have the luxury of FORUMS or the Internet for help. 99% of what I know I have taught myself through testing , reading and studying etc. It is something you never stop learning. I have been doing this stuff for close to 20 years and there is still so much more to learn, I had many frustrating times trying to sort out issues etc. This is why I try to HELP where possible. I also strongly believe in the product and love it's capabilities. Sure there maybe some things people wish for that aren't possible in earlier versions etc. But for a very fairly priced ECU it sure is loaded with some very impressive features. There are also many ways to control devices under certain operating conditions etc. So by getting involved and helping those out seeking help, I in return learn as well. No one has ever done everything. So having a go at everything that crosses your path will expand your knowledge base 10 fold. So in the process of helping you, at times I am learning also. That is what this FORUM is about, NO BULL$%@T, just cold hard facts and many suggestions to help you all in the long run. Regards Dave.
  15. 1 point

    Engine harness rewire, now won’t start.

    grab a trigger scope while cranking. Lets see if its seeing a good crank signal
  16. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    Fuel level

    Its usually a variable resistance sender. Should be able to use just about anything and feed it in on a spare AN input. Will need a pull up resistor between the signal and 5v reference as most are 2 wire. Then just see what it does outside the tank and create a calibration based on that. Most older units are not going to be a linear calibration so you will want to check multiple points from empty to full. Outside of that it should be relatively easy to get it on the CAN bus and on its way to the dash.
  17. 1 point

    programmable logic

    I would love in the future if you could step up virtual logic to be programmable perhaps in function block or text with Boolean (and and or if etc) to allow lots of flexability to the end user. the virtuals are great but can be limiting. Thanks
  18. 1 point
    It is not possible to decode them all since they are sent as bit fields. The stream below will give you the common errors for Lambda 1 using the CAN DIG inputs (you can view these on the runtimes screen). Set it up with ID 431, extended format. CAN DIG 1 will indicate "AFR1 Ready" CAN DIG 2 will indicate "AFR 1 Heater open Error" CAN DIG 3 will indicate "AFR 1 VM Error" and so on down the list. The LED's on the device give pretty much the same information so Im not sure how useful it is. AEM Errors ID431.lcs
  19. 1 point
    Hi all, Bit of an odd one, just wanted to ask how best to limit the torque output via the engine mapping, the basis of this question is owing to the torque limit on my transmission - basically looking to limit peak torque in certain scenarios. I will be getting my forged engine fully mapped on a rolling road but just wanted to ask the question now. Basically my forged engine will have the capacity to have a higher torque output than my upgraded gearbox is rated to, I know that my gearbox can cope with slightly more than its rated torque but am looking at how to limit peak torque when needed - a bit like an engine rev limiter. I am guessing I should be able to limit the torque by pulling timing out in certain cells at certain boost levels using a 3D table? Eg: 7 psi - no adjustment 14 psi - no adjustment 21 psi - some adjustment 28 psi - more adjustment For my build, here are my limits (to give everyone an idea): 1.8 Litre engine Forged rods and pistons (9.5:1 compression) Supertech valvetrain rated to 8,500rpm CSS strengthened block able to cope with around 600bhp Stock gearbox with upgraded 3rd and 4th gears - rated to 295ft/lbs although have chatted to someone who ran 365 ft/lbs through them Now, a stock engine with a low boost turbo (7psi) makes around 220 bhp and 185 ft/lb torque, and probably around 250bhp and 200ft/lbs at 12 psi, have seen figures for a forged engine making around 420bhp and the 365 ft/lbs at 35 psi on a GT3071 turbo, I am looking at an EFR 6758 for my build which should flow well at lower boost but not run out of legs at the top end. Is anyone able to guesstimate the sort of torque I should be expecting? I think I should be ok with a bar of boost in terms of torque but anything more I think I might need to run a limit of some sort to keep it around the 300ft/lb mark - basically looking to make the most power I can (as the rest of the engine can make it). I have also seen these engine make around 500bhp at 7,500 rpm and 28psi on a 6262 but the peak torque is probably at around 460 ft/lbs - tad much! Plan for my build is an 11 second 1/4 mile car but daily driven - plan to run full power at the drag strip then drop boost pressure to a lot lower for the road - basically looking to make sure that the gearbox holds ok for the couple of drag runs to prove it can run the time but then turn it down at all other times. Sorry - was a bit of a long post but was just wondering what everyone suggests.
  20. 1 point

    programmable logic

    I've currently got all 6 seven segments and the 8x8 Matrix to work with Link "generic dash" can bus output. There is some work to do with my neopixel library conflicting another of my libraries, and a weird issue with my can bus adapter only picking up frame 0 or 1 when you start to introduce a delay (like writing to the 7 Segs). However given a correction of my frame issue I'm not seeing any problems with refresh from the Nano. Weird thing is the Nano will do several hundred main loops prior to picking yet another frame 0 from the buffer. Although there is a deep imprint of my keyboard in my forehead I'm enjoying battling with the cheap ahrse and very flashy intelligent 7 Segs, 8x8 and neopixels... the cheap can bus adapter... not so much.
  21. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  22. 1 point
    Was this problem solved at the end? I am having the exact issue with Link G4+ plug ins on my FD. "When AC pressure switch(in series w AC button) is open due to high pressure, voltage @ pin 4V is 0v=gnd. This means that Vipec ECU does not understand that AC systempressure is to high and just keeps running the AC compressor. " Once the AC pressure switch 'clicks', I no longer able to turn off AC compressor, it will stay on. It's like the pressure switch is working the opposite way as it suppose to be.
  23. 1 point

    Tuning Considerations

    Yes, the same setting is available in two different places, you only need to adjust one and the other will change at the same time. It depends if you are using open loop or closed loop. If using open loop the base position table tells the idle valve how far open to be, the idle target table has no effect. In open loop mode the idle target table is only used for idle ignition control. In closed loop mode the base position table is the starting position that the idle valve jumps to when idle conditions are first met, then the closed loop control will take over and adjust the valve position further if needed to make the RPM match the idle target. The idea is the base position table can quickly get the idle valve somewhere close to where it needs to be then the closed loop only needs to make small corrections. There are instructions in the help file how to tune idle control. I suggest you start in open loop mode to build a good base position table. Follow this page in help: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Idle Speed Control >Open Loop ISC. Are you seeing this drift when the "set base timing" screen is open (so timing is locked)? What ECU do you have?
  24. 1 point
    No, you want to log the parameter "Lambda 1". Just fix your cal table.
  25. 1 point
    The Lambda trace actually isn't in the correct position as the reading lags so I would say its going lean on a throttle blip, best way to see by how much the Lambda is lagging is to set a switch on a DI and when selected add 10% to the fuel map, hold it at 4k rpm and switch the DI on, by logging the DI and the Lambda you will see how long the lag is, you can then read the log better. I would say if the fuel table is correct then you need to adjust the accell Enrichment. Logging TPS delta along with the TPS trace will help you work out whats going on. Hope this helps.
  26. 1 point
    I solved the problem. The cam sensors started to bleed through +12 to the signal wire when they got warm. I changed the supply to +5V and everything seems to be working fine now =). everywhere I looked the sensors should be +12v, but that was obviously wrong. Don't believe everything on the internet, haha. Big thanks for the support!
  27. 1 point

    4g63 boost control.

    Correct, it should have a stock solenoid in that car, usually you would just connect the new solenoid to the wires for the original valve. Wrong. One side goes to a switched +12V source. The other goes to an aux output. There are no aux outputs available on the expansion connector on that ECU, so you should connect it to aux 1/Pin 105.
  28. 1 point

    Idle control needs work.

    Happy to help. Another suggestion is to use an auxiliary/fuel/ignition output to trigger a fix amount of air bleed using a solenoid. Then use a timer on this output. So when you shift though the gears the neutral step is not added as its no longer required or only now very small. You could then use the 3d idle ignition for the power steering idle up.
  29. 1 point

    Low Oil Pressure protection strategy question

    The warning light is simple enough - configure an aux output as GP on/off, label it "Oil pressure warning" or similar, and set the condition to "oil pressure < 30kpa" or whatever you decide is a good level. This output will be connected to the ground side of your warning light in most cases. the ignition cut you can do a couple ways but you'll probably end up setting a GP RPM limit (under engine protection). turn on GP limit 1, then in the GP limit 1 table, change the Y axis to "oil pressure". You now set the rpm limit to 10000 or something higher than you ever hit in all cells where you want the engine to run normally, and either zero or your idle rpm in all the "failure" cells (ie the low pressure+high RPM cells). you can also do some logging of normal oil pressure and tweak the table using this so that the threshold for "failure" is just below normal at every RPM. If you set the limit to 0 you will stall the engine. There is a startup lockout timer in the GP limit settings that you may need to set so you can actually get the engine to start and have the oil pressure stabilise before it starts limiting it. If you have e-throttle you have another option of setting a second ethrottle target table where the target value never goes above 5 or 10% (or 0 if you want to stall it). You then set the condition for switching to table 2 to be the status of your warning light. This way you can also add in low fuel pressure or any other protection conditions you want to cover by adding them as conditions for the warning light (which could also be a virtual aux if you want the warning light to use different conditions than the thottle table swap.
  30. 1 point

    Wiring Earths on MX5 PNP

    The sensors and shield can all be grounded to one sensor ground on the expansion harness. The coils will need a high current power ground so they should be grounded direct to the cylinder head or block. For the trigger you would be better to buy proper shielded wire - I wouldnt trust just sleeving or foil over two/three regular wires. It shouldnt be difficult to find.
  31. 1 point

    Can I adjust speedo?

    Yes, provided your speedo is electronic and you connect it to the ecu, then you can adjust it. You need to connect the speedo to aux 1-8, assign the aux to "speedo out". You will then get these settings:
  32. 1 point
    A couple of extra tips for the MTX-L... Connect the innovate yellow wire to any spare Link analog input. The MTX doesnt have a dedicated analog ground so this will often cause a large and variable ground offset if grounded to the wrong location. The Innovate manual suggests grounding to the negative battery post but I would suggest the engine block instead. The "innovate LC1" calibration in the PCLink software is the correct one to choose (MTX is the same).
  33. 1 point
    Look at Ignition - Idle Ignition Control its the lockout there we are talking about. You can add Idle ignition Control to your logging view to watch when this becomes active.
  34. 1 point

    CAN dash setup

    The Plex dashes have the termination resistor built in so you should be ok there. Correct that the CANPCB cable is not twisted but I have never seen that cause a problem, it is only ~150mm long. Can you attach your .pclr file so I can take a quick look at your settings.
  35. 1 point

    IAT installation Subaru V5-V6

    At standstill with engine running or at low speed the IC is heated by the engine and will have fuel corrections. One option would be the condition of exceeding 30km/h to make corrections. Regards
  36. 1 point

    Mixture Map CL Lambda correction

    When full time closed loop lambda is used, the mixture map isn't useful, because lambda is controlled to target. I would like to have an option to plot CL lambda correction im the mixture map.
  37. 1 point

    Bosch MAP Sensor 0281002316

    That looks to me like it is a Diesel MAP sensor as it only measures down to 50KPa, it wont be much good for a petrol engine. Its quoted range is 50-400KPa. ProductDetail.pdf
  38. 1 point

    Why cant i turn on INJ 7 & 8

    You will need to go live with the ECU and set the cylinder count to 8. If you are then on direct spark and sequential fuel it will force the drives to the correct settings. In the map you are working on it was form a 6 cylinder application and so those drives were free to be used for other functions.
  39. 1 point

    Overrun Fuel Cut Activation

    Not seen one, just need to do it the hard way with 2 timers and 2 virtuals and dual tables. Would be a nice addition though, I do actually get asked this a lot from the cruise and show guys and gals who want flames and pops at the weekend.
  40. 1 point

    Engine fan control before start

    i use 1 fan PWM controlled and 1 fan by relay ON/OFF I made a 3D table for the PWM fan RPMS vs ECT But on 0rpm and 500rpm i set 0%, that AUX is set as GP OUTPUT PWM, if i set a % value on the coloms 0Rpm and 500Rpm, then the fan is running while engine is not started. Like Adamw says : when selected Engine fan on a AUX, that fan will only be running when engine is started.
  41. 1 point

    Link made CAN wideband with LSU 4.9 or NTK

    LSU4.9 Tech info: https://1drv.ms/b/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPixMg31pUx3HxmQI2 You are correct in that the CJ125/135 chipsets dont control the heating but Bosch does give guidelines for how that should be done to achieve the quoted sensor performance and life. Unfortunately many aftermarket manufacturers seem to ignore those guidelines. As Steve has pointed out here also many of the standalone controllers dont have any way to know when the engine is running so they cant do the recommended "reduced heating during water condensation phase". In my experience though the CJ125/135 based controllers that followed the recommended implementation usually give good reliable performance - some even without the reduced heating phase. Then there are some manufacturers that have thrown the Bosch book out the window and do some really unique sensor control/interface in an effort to get better response time but they often consequently get very poor life too. Inno* is one such example that seems to fall into this category.
  42. 1 point
    Rich RDE

    1JZ VVT-I Map

    Sorry I have not been on here in awhile. I was extremely busy with a 996 turbo project. Please email me again. I did not get the email. Cheers
  43. 1 point

    Engine fan PWM idle up

    Hi Nigel, When the PWM output is doing a PWM of anything greater than zero the Aux Output status will turn on. You could then set the idle control tables to 3D and set the aux output status to the additional axis. One trick with this is that a value of '2' is ON for the Aux Output status. Scott
  44. 1 point

    Power Graph

    Hi Grant, Something like that would be quite cool. I'll pass this onto the engineers. I'm unsure where this would fit in their priority queue. Scott
  45. 1 point

    ECU tuning via windows10 Mobile smartphone

    current binaries wont work on windows 10 mobile. pclink would need to be developed as a Universal Windows Platform app. The x3 looks to be a very nice unit and is just the start of the new generation of continuum enabled devices
  46. 1 point

    LSU 4.9 wire to force GDI

    Pin 5 on the sensor side of the connector goes to the calibration resistor (built into connector). On the ECU side of the connector this pin should go to the MES terminal. Scott
  47. 1 point

    Boost Guage

    Hi Rob, are you talking about setting up a boost gauge in PCLink, or physically connecting a boost gauge to run from the ECU? If you are talking about in POLink then here ia quick little video: https://vdoubleyou-scott.tinytake.com/sf/NjQ3MDQzXzMxNDEwMjA Right click in an empty space to place the gauge. You can adjust the range and orange and red sections if you want. Press the 'u' key to swap between kPa and PSI.
  48. 1 point
    Dear All Happy New Year every body I finished my map on the traditionnal fuel mode I want swap on Modelled fuel equation map because after i want use gasoline and ethanol fuel. I miss some information for start correctly the set up of modelled fuel equation mode My car set up is : PTE injectors 1000cc, fuel pressure is std, i connect also one Ethanol content sensor to my G4+ Plug In, i have all time information fuel temperature and % of Ethanol I miss this information : Fuel Charge Cooling CoefficientMin Effective Pulse WidthCharge Temp Correction TableCan you help me for set up this parameter ? Also i have one question concerning the Knock control. OEM ecu the knock is connected I want to know if it is same on Link G4+ Pluig In? This function is available? i can use knock control fonction? Best regards ludovic Ethanol Content Sensor
  49. 1 point

    afr changing after tune/drive

    Hi, I've had a look at your log file. I can see how the lambda reading is leaner as the log goes on. When I check the Fuel Table 1 reading at the same points it is even. To me this indicates that either the ECU is applying a trim of some sort (which I do not see in the log file), or something like temperature is effecting the tune. We do highly recommend running an IAT sensor. Can you also please supply your base-map? Scott
  50. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    1JZ VVT-I Map

    Hi, Variable valve timing really needs to be tuned on the dyno, it is the only way to truly know if you are going forwards or back wards. When making changes to the target tables go in steps of 5 degrees at a time, once you see your torque drop off you, then decrease the value by 1 degree at a time until you hit the sweet spot. You must make sure that your engine is also a free running motor, meaning that if you advance the cam timing too much that you have no piston / valve contact. Regards Dave.
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