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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2015 in Posts

  1. 7 points
    Adamw

    ross trigger kit rb26

    Iecku, I just thought I would mention a little bit of info that many people miss. These kits appear to use the Honeywell 1GT101 sensor, these sensors are much slower on the rising edge than the falling edge. The datasheet quotes a 15µs rise time Vs 1µs for fall time. So for at least trigger 1 (that controls the timing) it would be more correct to set the trigger edge to falling. Even though 15µs is only like 0.9 deg at 10000RPM, if you can get extra accuracy just by a simple setting change - then you might as well use it...
  2. 6 points
    Hi All, The developers of RealDash have been working with us to make their app compatible with Link ECU's. It is now compatible. For those that havent seen it you can learn more here: http://www.realdash.net/ In my short play it seems to work well and has lots of cool features. Lap timing, navigation, configurable alarms, live graphs, live streaming of data, music player, etc. The app and a selection of basic "skins" are totally free, then there are some more fuller featured paid for "premium skins" that do more stuff such as data logging and may look cooler these are still relatively cheap ranging about $3-$10. One example below. Right now it wont work on the Atom, Monsoon, Kurofune or Black Storm as the serial stream is not enabled in those ECU's but we hope to enable that setting in the next couple of months. Right now it will work in the Blue Storm, Xtreme, Fury, Thunder, all Plug-ins & Force. It will also work on old G4/Vipec V series ECU's. Connection to your tablet/smartphone is direct using your normal Link USB tuning cable, for phones/tablets that only have a micro USB port you will need a "Micro USB OTG adapter". Instructions for setup and connection attached to bottom of this post. RealDash.pdf
  3. 6 points
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
  4. 6 points
    Hey people, Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well. I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode. With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily. Like so: Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear. Then flicked the first switch, did it again. Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values: Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km: Then from here, collated the results from each run. So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too. It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising) Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat.
  5. 5 points
    Andre@HPA

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi Grant, In case my user name didn't give it away, I'm Andre from HPA We went down the path of online training because it allows us to help more people all around the world, and we firmly believe that it offers significant advantages to in-person training. It's a cost effective option since you don't need to travel, and you also have the advantage of being able to re-watch our courses as many times as you like. This means you can brush up on concepts that you're not clear on, or revisit concepts that you've perhaps forgotten since initially taking the course. The key to our courses though is our support community which is where we bridge the gap between online and in-person training - We believe strongly in supporting our members and this is where our private online forum and our regular weekly webinars help back up the course material. The forum is the perfect place to get fast and reliable answers to your questions, while our weekly webinars are the fastest way to expand your tuning knowledge on a range of engines and platforms, as well as staying up to date with the latest technologies. I couldn't agree more with Ben's comment about the requirement at some point to transition into hands-on experience and that's exactly why we developed our 'remote practice dyno' where you can get real world hands-on experience tuning a real engine on a real engine dyno without leaving your house. The online practice dyno is currently operating a Link G4+ Fury ECU which may be helpful to you given you're on this forum. You can find out more about the online practice dyno here: We understand that buying online education can be tricky and we want our members to be able to purchase with confidence which is why we also offer a 60 day, 100% money back guarantee - If for any reason you feel our courses aren't right for you, we will refund the full purchase price. If you're interested in getting a taste of what HPA is all about then I'd suggest you start by signing up for our free six-part series of lessons. This will give you some insight into how we work and what we can offer: https://www.hpacademy.com/free-tuning-lessons In the perfect world I believe the best solution is to get as much training as possible - Both in person and online. I found that when I was operating my own performance workshop however, that unless the in-person training was local, the cost of training staff in this way was usually prohibitive. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have
  6. 5 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    Hi all, i am still alive

    Hi all, I just wanted to let everyone know I am still alive and slowly getting better after major surgery. Hopefully another couple of weeks and I will be able to get back to one of my very favourite past times, helping out with tech support where ever I can. I honestly miss this aspect of my life and has been a huge part of my life for so many years. I miss all the fantastic crew at LINK and can't wait to get back to business as usual. Take care everyone. Talk soon, Regards Dave.
  7. 4 points
    mapper

    Ethanol Content Clamp Function

    The continental Ethanol Content Sensors will read significant lower when low flow goes through the sensor. This means during a WOT run the ethanol content will read significantly lower at high load and rpm than at idle, because the flow in the return line is low. I attached a Log to show the problem. With more boost, I see values 20% lower at WOT than at idle. This is a well-known problem and other ECU manufacturers have an Ethanol Clamp function for a good while. The Ethanol content does with activated clamp function only update when the Injector Duty Cycle is below a certain level. Once the INJ Duty Cycle is higher than the threshold the ECU takes the last value read below the threshold and update Ethanol content only when InjDC goes below the threshold. So a quite simple function, but with a big need! Please implement it asap. Thank you.
  8. 4 points
    Adamw

    Logging setup for ECU logging

    Yes, that was one of the first Efi engines I done about 20 years ago when I was a teenager. Motec M48. Couldn’t get many SR20 parts in those days so had to make throttle bodies, camshafts, dry sump system etc from scratch. Datsun 510 rally car.
  9. 4 points
    Guys relax a bit. I've mapped and I'm supporting several 600-800hp 2.0 to 2.3l time attack engines/cars with a Link ECU and multimap strategy. Such an engine runs usually for 5000 race track kilometers until a rebuilt is needed. That's a similar distance to a 24h race. I like to answer your question.: All LINK ECU use the same PC-Software and the same Firmware. The main difference between all LINK G4+ ECU's is only the hardware. your tuner should tune the main Fuel and ign Maps from the lowest to the highest boost levels. There are 3 main Boost Maps in the LINK ECU. You can additionally span one of the axis of the Boost Wastegate or Target table to a driver Rotary Switch. So it's possible to have up to 33 different boost maps, which all can be switched on the fly. On top of that, you can activate 4D fuel and ignition tables on one or several of the boost maps. This allows trimming Ignition and Fuel on some maps if you or your tuner like to do that. The Link Ecu is really flexible. Usually, the only limit what you can do is the creativity of the tuner. As an example, we installed 3 rotary switches in a Time Attack/ Hillclimb car. One 12-Position Rotary Switch is used to choose between 12 different torque maps (mainly altered by boost strategy). The Launch RPM can be chosen over another 12-Position Switch, depending on whether and Track conditions. And lastly, we have a 3-Position Rotary Switch to choose one of 3 Drive by wire Throttle Maps. For engine Safety, we set up Limits for too low and to high Coolant temp, Oil temp, Oil press and Fuel press. We are also using full time closed loop lambda and sending a lot of Data over a custom CAN. As you see, the LINK is a very capable system. But as every ECU, it needs a capable tuner to use it properly.
  10. 4 points
    That and a few other handy features are already on my list of "Things that would make PCLink much nicer to use as a tablet dash". Thanks!
  11. 4 points
    mapper

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15% on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation. On small changes fuel film built up is much less. Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant. I have attached a tuned example.
  12. 4 points
    Tim D

    ''Laggy'' software

    At last, my graphics issues are fixed, despite having latest geforce drivers, it was the windows setting for text scaling, it needs to be 100%, not 125%.
  13. 4 points
    paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    sorry for delay, had to sort out a few things and fix some bugs, but all working well with my new sensors need to finish the documenation (ive done about 1/3 so far)
  14. 4 points
    Efiguy

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi All, Ben here from EFI University. Honestly, you really can't go wrong with any of the choices out there. Ben and Andre at HPA do a really great job and we have nothing negative to say, in fact a lot of our customers tell us they've used both and learned things from both. We try really hard to focus on giving our clients a real world "experience" by letting them actually put their hands on the dyno and doing the work. It's obviously a different approach to the learning process than an online experience, and we realize that due to cost and time not everyone can take advantage of this platform so we do offer some online training as well. As we move forward we may offer more of the online stuff based on requests from customers, but it's unlikely we'll ever transition to online only as it just doesn't stack up in real value to the customer the way a true hands-on experience does. I always like to use flight training as an example...you can only play on Microsoft Flight simulator for so long and eventually you HAVE to get into the airplane. No matter what, the experience will be different in real life so while we absolutely agree there is value in online video based training, our focus will always remain on training in a real world environment. I hope that was a helpful introduction and explanation of our core philosophy and if anyone had any questions don't hesitate to call or drop an email! Thanks, Ben Strader, President, EFI University, inc
  15. 4 points
    TechDave

    PCLink 5.6.4.3229 Released

    Hi guys, so I've just put up a new release of PCLink and the firmware. Thanks for your patience with this one You can grab it from here: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way: If you have any questions or issues please post them in this thread.
  16. 4 points
    Scott

    Fuel system type Map to FP sensor

    This is a bug. Currently if you use ANV12 or higher for fuel pressure it does not work. We have an update coming shortly that will fix this issue and some others. Scott.
  17. 4 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    TECH SUPPORT VIA EMAIL

    Hi everyone, I just want to let everyone know for TECH SUPPORT you can use the following email addresses. Link tech support team email address is available during business hours Monday to Friday and some after hours support from Scott. tech@linkecu.com I also offer tech support, I DO NOT WORK for LINK however offer my assistance 7 days a week including some strange hours when I am awake. I can be emailed at protuning@bigpond.com Please feel free to use these resources as we are here to help. Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
  18. 4 points
    Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up. 1. Wiring Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference. 2. Initial settings Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band. Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees. Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting) 3. Cylinder balancing Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others. So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder. You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34 See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible. You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1. 4. Non knock noise levels Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too. The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine. According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha. So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want) Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle) Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global. Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too. Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock. At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock. Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want: Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine. So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working. From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me) Hopefully it all makes sense though Where are you based / what is the car used for? Keen to hear how you get on.
  19. 3 points
    Simon

    G4x Base map

    For those looking for a base map to have a play with. Software can be found at http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink 6.15.15.exe Monsoon FW 6.15.6.pclx
  20. 3 points
    TechDave

    Share your Math Channel List

    So this afternoon I sat at the simulator and started mucking about with a few ideas. I wanted to calculate my average speed based on some event, I used a digital input latching on. In the UK we have average speed camera zones, you get snapped at the start and end and they do a distance over time calculation. Often you'll get slowed down by a Karen in an X5 not paying attention, I've always been curious how much I could safely speed up again to catch back up to 50 mph average over the trip. You can do this in log analysis with the statistics view, but this is obviously operating at runtime. So there's a few things here I've done that aren't documented yet, yes they will be. The first is that maths channels can do reassignment, x = x + 1 etc The next is that they're evaluated at 1000 Hz Lastly I know of a few built in functions too. I figured out two methods, of averaging, the first could be used not only for wheel speed, but for really any parameter, lambda, throttle position, you could use another maths function to find lambda, vvt, boost, etc error then feed that function into this one and have an average of error over some time period. This one uses this algorithm: newAverage = oldAverage + (newSample - oldAverage)/sampleNumber the cnt function is a real good cnt function, it counts 1 per cycle (so 1 per millisecond) while c is greater than or equal to 1, so if you feed it a status which evaluates to 0 OFF and 1 ON, then you're away. If you want to use this for Anti-Lag active we might have to get a bit imaginative about an offset, iirc Anti-Lag OFF = 0, ON = 1, Active = 2...etc I had to add a +1 to cnt because on the first cycle it's 0 and that's div by 0, plus the first cycle is the 1st sample too. The 2nd method I came up with was to calculate distance, which of itself is a useful function, then calculate distance/time, again using that good cnt function: Again using reassignment in the Distance function, multiply speed by 1/100th of a second, of a minute, of a hour to get distance travelled per millisecond (rate is 1kHz), I multipled by status to simply switch it on and off. This gives me km. distance a over time, divide by the same multi as above gets us back to an average. You don't need to use 8dp for this, I was just using it while getting my exponents sorted. My functions agree with each other and track to my expectations, but if you spot an error in my maths then shout out edit: unfortunately this is all in kph as I started running out of characters to add the mph multiplier, I've spoken with engineering and we'll see if we can get the length increased, 2.77e-7 helped a lot, but still lost a bit to parenthesis too.
  21. 3 points
    Ducie54

    G4x Base map

    As a feature request can we have the option on which Lambda sensor is used for CLL. As example I'm using 5 lambda sensors. One in the turbo dump pipe and 4 in the turbo manifold using a CAN module. The software uses a average for CLL but would be nice to use Lambda one so manifold pressure is not an influence. Currently to get around this from happening I've set the 4 CAN lambdas as CAN TC.
  22. 3 points
    Simon

    G4x Base map

    Yep Multi fuel and traction control will be coming
  23. 3 points
    Hey everyone, I know you've been hanging out for this one. PCLink Version 5.6.6 3564 (DLL rev 3544) 15/08/2018 New Features Right Mouse Click on a time plot to add a marker or section. File Directory tab in Options window lets the user specify a folder to always load from/save to Hinged axis titles in Surface View. Locked Surface view (similar to old surface view behaviour) Chinese language added coming soon Spanish language added also coming soon Changes Some lists have had their default layout changed (alphabetical still works) Minor improvements to the Logging Setup window. Minor improvements to parameter selection. Improved b marker drawing on the time plot. Changed how parameter colours are named (see Parameter Menu and Setting up a Dial Gauges Runtime Values for details). Improved consistency of keyboard shortcut keys across PCLink. Searching CAN Parameters now takes into account transmit/receive filter. Fixes Fixed few bugs with saving log files and holding F8 key. Fixed bug in Aux Output where Diff Fuel Pressure was not triggering correctly. Fixed bug with compare file and cell colours not changing. Fixed bug where PCLink would crash if the computer (laptop) was put to sleep. Fixed Cal tables 1-3 from wrapping around when output table start is set to a -ve number. FP Speed Table now resizes correctly when double clicked. DI14 now displays wheel speed label properly. Imperial units in table axis setup improved. Surface Graph fixed for Nvidia graphics chipsets. G4+ Firmware Version 5.6.6.3557 – 15/08/2018 New Features Added trigger modes for LS2 with moved cam sensor, Rover K series with CAM sync, Nissan VQ35HR and Mitsubishi Colt 4g15. Added Astra CAN mode. Added Single-Point Every TDC Injection Mode to activate all injectors on every TDC for throttle body injection kits. Added CAN stream for Link AIM MXS Strada Dash. Changes Added 3D tables option to Closed Loop Lambda FTrim Limit. Added options to GPOutputs. Added Cruise Control power toggle switch mode. Fixes Remove unused settings from Kurofune and Monsoon. CLL dual channel mode now controls the second bank. AFR average is now averaged correctly. Add 3D Secondary Injection Deadtime table. Fuel Pump FP table now interpolates correctly. Knock Control High RPM lockout has been increased. Gear Status can now be written from CAN input. Fuel pump mode “80Hz 33/66/100 %DC” now reports duty cycle correctly. Cylinders 9-12 now trigger injectors when configured as Semi-Sequential Injection. Solenoid Idle Speed Control now shows status correctly. Stepper Idle Speed Control now stops at the Minimum Clamp. As always, make sure you save your basemap, do the firmware update, load your basemap, then do a compare to check changes. https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ Post any issues you have here, rather than starting new threads, or my favourite, at the bottom of a completely unrelated thread.
  24. 3 points
    Adamw

    What is wrong with my tune?

    I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.
  25. 3 points
    Adamw

    X-SERIES AEMNET CAN BUS GAUGE

    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  26. 3 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  27. 3 points
    mapper

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  28. 3 points
    Adamw

    CANBUS OIL Temp from AN8

    Hi Mark, I suspect the problem is your oil temp sensor being on a AV input is not actually assigned to the "oil temp" parameter but rather a "GP Temp" parameter that is not sent in the standard generic dash stream. Attached below is a configurable version of the generic dash stream where I have replaced "oil temp" with AN 8 - Oil temp. MarkHellier.lcs For any others that want it I will also attach an un-modified configurable generic dash stream. Configurable Generic Stream.lcs
  29. 3 points
    bsh

    Supra 2JZ-GTE 901 whp

    901 whp / 920 nm Vi-PEC V88 PT 6870 E85 Cheap, small eBay intercooler limit the power output. Should have seen 4-digit number with a proper cooler.
  30. 3 points
    MagicMike

    'Save All' logs

    Would this be at all possible? Instead of having to save each individually?
  31. 3 points
    mapper

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Hi Marc Good to hear back from you. How much does your AFR oscilate? Where is the wideband located? Depending on position, you need to adjust Lambda rate and Gain. You should do some testing. Tune your VE table with CLL off as good to your Target AFR as possible. Adjust your target AFR table to the rich side with one task by the amounts listed in the gain table 0,33 0,66 etc. And log, with a high logging rate, how long the sensor needs to get to a stable reading. Lets say it needs 0.3 seconds. This means your frequency in the lambda rate table may be max. 1/0,3 = 3.333 This test should be done at different loads and rpms to work out best CLL settings. Best place to do that is a load bearing dyno.
  32. 3 points
    pugsparked

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.5.3338b Released

    Hi, to use the Link software as Dash in the next update you could remove the outer frames of the watches and always be in front. This way it could be configured similar to a Motec or other Dashboards The Dial gauge RPM could also be improved with a more "Racing" look I attach an example
  33. 3 points
    mapper

    Wire schematic

    Hi To speed up wiring and diagnostic I would like to have a function that outputs a list, a schematic, and a picture of the connectors with all labels of all configured (assigned) in- and outputs. On top of that many smart things could be implemented like an auto updated complete wiring schematic in an easy understandable format(e.g MS Visio style). These things can speed up install time and wiring a lot, which sets barrier lower to switch to a standalone ECU. possible examples attached.
  34. 3 points
    Brad Burnett

    Rev limit

    Glad you got it sorted out Idris. But if you would like to get better information from the members of the forum, it would help if you supplied a bit more information with your questions. Different engine combinations sometimes benefit from different settings. And with your rather vague post, there is not much to go on to give you good suggestions. I hope this helps with your further posts on this forum. Have a nice day.
  35. 3 points
    TechDave

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.5.3338 Released

    Good morning everybody, Last night we released a new PCLink and Firmware, I updated this thread but it didn't stick (weird eh?) Thanks for your patience with the 5.6.2 to 5.6.5 update-requiring-ECU unlock bug. Thanks Davidv for his work around. I'll leave these notes attached because they're still quite relevant to this release: As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way:
  36. 3 points
    For anyone else looking to run similar setups with Racepak dashes and a link ecu. Don't purchase the Racepak display dash or logger dash that has the standard 5pin v-net connector and 8pin Deutsche connected on the back. If you purchase the Racepak STREET dash it has a can module already built into the dash that can be programmed to most new ecus and I have tested and confirmed it on my link G4+ extreme.
  37. 3 points
    Adamw

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.5.3338 Released

    Post removed to avoid confusion.
  38. 3 points
    orlando bello

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    windows 10 tablet . B4 and after .thanks for the awesome Link software.
  39. 3 points
    Hyperblade

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts... Hardware: For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time. However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first. Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive. To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect. Setup: Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well. The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across. Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet. Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/ It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing). As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu. Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both). Realworld Performance: You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery). It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.
  40. 3 points
    Simon

    knock detection device

    Finally after far to long we have some recordings off the G4+ KnockBlock These recordings are off our well abused 1UZFE VVT test engine. Engine background noise.m4a Mild Knock with bad tune.m4a Severe Knock with bad tune.m4a
  41. 3 points
  42. 3 points
    Scott

    closed loop lambda failsafe

    Hi warmup, this is certainly a good idea, and is currently on our request list.
  43. 3 points
    Scott

    g4 tablet dash

    You can configure the look of PCLink however you like, but doing it on a tablet could be tricky. One solution would be to design your layout on a laptop/PC, save the layout file (Layout > Save Layout File As..) and then email it to the tablet and then open it in PCLink on the tablet. When it comes to actual design of the layout, you can add new pages by clicking Layout > New Page. You can add a gauge wherever you want one by right clicking in some available space and then selecting the gauge type you want.
  44. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    TECH SUPPORT VIA EMAIL

    Hi everyone, If you wish or need to contact Tech support, LINK TECH SUPPORT is open Monday to Friday during New Zealand business hours. Both Simon and Scott are available and their email address is tech@linkecu.com Scott also works until 9 pm (please correct me if I am wrong Scott) for tech support. I DO NOT work for LINK but also offer my services 7 days a week as well as strange hours when I can't sleep. I can be contacted at protuning@bigpond.com Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
  45. 2 points
    I wanted to share my success using a bluetooth adapter since I have not seen any other posts about using one on this forum. So far I have only tested it with an Android tablet and RealDash. It has been working perfectly. Connection is fast and very reliable. There is no noticeable lag on the dash interface. There are a few advantages of using Bluetooth over USB for a tablet dash. 1) The usb port on the tablet is freed up to be used for charging (this can also be used to automatically turn the tablet on/off with key power) 2) The usb port on the ECU can be dedicated to the Laptop usb cable for tuning (dash cannot be used simultaneously with laptop, but less plugging/unplugging) This is assuming that your Link ECU has separate tuning and CANBUS ports. The Bluetooth Adapter I have been using is one made for Megasquirt MS2/MS3 – PerfectTuning is the manufacturer. https://perfecttuning.net/en/accessories/26-bluetooth-adapter-for-ms2-and-ms3.html There are a few other BT adapters for megasquirt, they are all likely the same Bluetooth chip and work the same. The Megasquirt uses a DB9 connector for serial connection, so that is what comes with the BT adapter. In order to connect to the Link you will need a Link CAN connector http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2 These connectors need to be soldered and can be somewhat difficult due to their small size. Cable pigtail is also available but fairly expensive. The following is the pinout on CAN connector, the BT DB9 connector and where those wires need to end up. This can be wired a few different ways. Either the DB9 connector on the BT adapter can be mated to with a female DB9, or it can be cut off and hardwired (or use a different style connector). The two serial wires will go to the CAN connector on the ECU (TX to RX, and vice versa). The 5v and GND wires will need to go to a 5v power source. Do not use the 5v supply from the ECU, the BT adapter can draw up to 30mA. 12V DC to 5V power supplies are very common, it is the same voltage as USB chargers. What I did was buy a USB charger and hardwire a USB cable pigtail to make the connection. I used and like this model: I recommend powering the 5v power supply from the ACC terminal (radio power) on the ignition switch. This way there is still power to the Bluetooth with the key in position 1 (ignition off). This will allow you to power cycle the ECU without killing power to the Bluetooth adapter – leaving it wirelessly connected to the tablet. This means that the dash will be live in about a second instead of 5-10sec. In order to use the tuning port to connect a laptop, either the CAN connector must be removed or a 2 pole switch/relay must be put on the serial wires coming from the CAN connector. The switch must be within about 20cm of the ECU, otherwise the serial stream may become active and not allow the laptop to connect. Once the laptop has been connected, the ECU must be restarted to allow the serial stream to become active again. Hopefully in the future this can be changed by Link so that the serial stream is reactivated upon laptop disconnect. If there is interest and the forum allows, I could possibly make and sell a plug-and-play Bluetooth solution for the Link G4+. Cost would likely be just a little more than the Perfect Tuning adapter. Here is a video of my dash on a “cold start” – Powered up and connected in less than 10 seconds. Realdash can be set to allow the tablet to sleep when charge power is killed from the tablet. It works well as a OEM style dash and I don’t need to manually touch the tablet at all. This is what the inside of the PT BT adapter looks like. Blue = 5v Orange = GND Grey = RX Yellow = TX
  46. 2 points
    Hi agree that there is some space for improvements on Accel enrich. If you enrich enought that you don't see a lean spike at the begining of rappid TP change, AFR's goes usually to low. Even if you set decay rate to 100% and enrich only on one event. I can only explain that with fuel film which is built up during extra accel enrichment injection which is then sucked aways on the follow engine cycles, because flow goes up with RPM. Some kind of asynchron enrichment may help to built up a fuel film. Or a full fuel film modell.
  47. 2 points
    Niklas Sandstrom

    BMW S65 V8 Trigger Mode

    Its the same trigger pattern. Im running two cars with this engine S65B40 and Link Extreme.
  48. 2 points
    Adamw

    TTLink with DSG - CAN bus data

    As far as I can see, the G4+ is capable of doing this with a user defined stream. I think the existing "load (abs)" parameter would be almost directly proportional to torque output so you could probably use this to create the torque message. I think you could then just use the CAN multiplier/divider/offset to convert the load parameter into the correct range of "torque numbers" that the gearbox expects to receive. I have a hunch however it might not actually want just predicted "torque output" - I vaguely remember seeing parameters more like "driver requested torque" associated with the few gear shift controls I have seen. - But I reckon even that should be possible to simulate with the existing tools. So the biggest challenge for the OP will be finding all the OEM CAN ID's and message structure etc and then finding someone who understands enough of it to translate it into the G4+ template and that will likely incur significant time and cost.
  49. 2 points
    Hello. This is something i've been thinking long ago, even before i bought my Link G4+ xtreme black ecu. I am not sure if you will flip me off because it will probably be much work for you guys but on the other hand i believe no-one has such a feature and it goes more into OEM one-off applications we see in newer cars. So to get going, my idea is a feature where in the simplest form is to use a single Analog Input to control multiple parameters (in the activate-deactivate sense) like launch control, anti-lag, traction control, map switching etc so to spare DI for other stuff. Normally if you want to have control over these features/parameter you require to add switches wired to DI's for every one of these things you want to control. However assuming your analog inputs have 10bit ADC's it gives 2^10=1024 individual voltage steps from a range of 0-5V (5/1024=0.0048V per step) which gives 10 possible combinations of parameters you can control (ideally, in reality the ADC might be too sensitive so we go down to less parameters (5 parameters for a 0.02V voltage step). So from Link's side you essentially need to construct a "table" where you can set 10 different parameters to control on and off. To simplify this let's go down to 3 parameters to make this easy to visualize: where x means the function is activated and blank means it is deactivated . Of course it doesn't have to to be a table with voltages like that since if using 10 parameters will require 1024 columns for the voltage steps. The proper way to do this is via binary counting since you can easily index all combinations and calculate the state of each parameter (on or off) without an array which would take lots of space. As a follow up to the example above where we set n=3 as the total number of the parameters to control we need a binary value of n (3 in this case) digits. If we set 1st digit as parameter A, 2nd as B, and 3rd as C we have the following combinations that will always hold true (index the same) for any n number of parameters we want to control: Thus we can easily calculate and control any parameter directly through the ADC value of the analog input. This works great for both sides (Link ecu and client side of which i will go into detail later in the post). To simplify again how this should work lets break it down. In this case let's say we use all 10bits of the ADC. PcLink should have a table that you can set 10 parameters to control. It is important that these parameters are entered with the same order for both PcLink and client side. Let say we set: Let's say i want to activate B and H. This means i need to convert the binary 0100000100 (note where i put 1's, B is 2nd, H is 8th). If i do the conversion i end up with the decimal value of 260. Then the client side DAC sends a signal of about 5V * 260 /1024 = 1.27V. The link ecu receives this voltage on the analog input (ADC) and measures it as decimal 260. Converting back this decimal to binary we get 0100000100. The ecu sees the 2nd and 8th digits of the binary value are 1 so it activates functions B and H. I hope this makes it clear. We can go into more detail why this not work perfectly and the ADC might read 259 or 261, thus why i said we might need to use less than 10 parameters depending on the sensitivity of the ADC. Also you are not limited to using a single ADC. If you have 2 analog inputs connected you can potentially control 10x10 = 100 parameters. Of course we are not limited to using analog inputs for this feature, we can do this via a DIGITAL INPUT, SERIAL, CAN etc. Client wise this is very easy to do. What i personally plan to do is use a microcontroller (an arduino for example), an oled screen and some push switches to make a nice, user friendly interface where you can select what to control at any moment without having to add lots of switches and knobs. I am also planning to control more things, like boost target since a $5 arduino microcontroller gives you lots of I/O. Plus it only costs $10-$20 in materials total. I will freely provide code, schematics and diagrams if this thing is implemented. It's not that i can't at the moment, it's just i will run out of AN's and DI's which should be reserved for sensors, not for controlling FEATURES. SO PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE MAKE THIS HAPPEN! NO OTHER AFTERMARKET EMU (i know of) has such a feature and would add greatly to your products. And while you could release such a module yourself's please do not make it proprietary, we want to have the flexibility as end users (afterall that's why we bought an aftermarket ecu in the first place!) AFTERTHOUGHT: I bought an aftermarket ecu not to make more power - you only require air, fuel and right timing for that - but to get and control more features. This is so that i can modernize the car and make it more relevant as a daily and even give more flexibility for a motorsport application. All the above and more can be done really easily nowadays - you can get a cheap windows tablet connect it via usb and run PcLink on it if you want. And this is another way we should think my idea. Maybe you want to use it as to monitor stuff without a laptop, control things, think of R35 dash for example. Why bother to use OBD when you can do so much more via direct USB? It is not like hardware changes are needed, you can do this via software alone. So please consider this
  50. 2 points
    TechDave

    ECU Output to tablet

    Apparently these allow you to transfer data and charge the device at the same time http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C452XFO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01
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