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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2015 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    Hey people, Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well. I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode. With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily. Like so: Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear. Then flicked the first switch, did it again. Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values: Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km: Then from here, collated the results from each run. So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too. It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising) Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat.
  2. 5 points
    Andre@HPA

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi Grant, In case my user name didn't give it away, I'm Andre from HPA We went down the path of online training because it allows us to help more people all around the world, and we firmly believe that it offers significant advantages to in-person training. It's a cost effective option since you don't need to travel, and you also have the advantage of being able to re-watch our courses as many times as you like. This means you can brush up on concepts that you're not clear on, or revisit concepts that you've perhaps forgotten since initially taking the course. The key to our courses though is our support community which is where we bridge the gap between online and in-person training - We believe strongly in supporting our members and this is where our private online forum and our regular weekly webinars help back up the course material. The forum is the perfect place to get fast and reliable answers to your questions, while our weekly webinars are the fastest way to expand your tuning knowledge on a range of engines and platforms, as well as staying up to date with the latest technologies. I couldn't agree more with Ben's comment about the requirement at some point to transition into hands-on experience and that's exactly why we developed our 'remote practice dyno' where you can get real world hands-on experience tuning a real engine on a real engine dyno without leaving your house. The online practice dyno is currently operating a Link G4+ Fury ECU which may be helpful to you given you're on this forum. You can find out more about the online practice dyno here: We understand that buying online education can be tricky and we want our members to be able to purchase with confidence which is why we also offer a 60 day, 100% money back guarantee - If for any reason you feel our courses aren't right for you, we will refund the full purchase price. If you're interested in getting a taste of what HPA is all about then I'd suggest you start by signing up for our free six-part series of lessons. This will give you some insight into how we work and what we can offer: https://www.hpacademy.com/free-tuning-lessons In the perfect world I believe the best solution is to get as much training as possible - Both in person and online. I found that when I was operating my own performance workshop however, that unless the in-person training was local, the cost of training staff in this way was usually prohibitive. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have
  3. 4 points
    Guys relax a bit. I've mapped and I'm supporting several 600-800hp 2.0 to 2.3l time attack engines/cars with a Link ECU and multimap strategy. Such an engine runs usually for 5000 race track kilometers until a rebuilt is needed. That's a similar distance to a 24h race. I like to answer your question.: All LINK ECU use the same PC-Software and the same Firmware. The main difference between all LINK G4+ ECU's is only the hardware. your tuner should tune the main Fuel and ign Maps from the lowest to the highest boost levels. There are 3 main Boost Maps in the LINK ECU. You can additionally span one of the axis of the Boost Wastegate or Target table to a driver Rotary Switch. So it's possible to have up to 33 different boost maps, which all can be switched on the fly. On top of that, you can activate 4D fuel and ignition tables on one or several of the boost maps. This allows trimming Ignition and Fuel on some maps if you or your tuner like to do that. The Link Ecu is really flexible. Usually, the only limit what you can do is the creativity of the tuner. As an example, we installed 3 rotary switches in a Time Attack/ Hillclimb car. One 12-Position Rotary Switch is used to choose between 12 different torque maps (mainly altered by boost strategy). The Launch RPM can be chosen over another 12-Position Switch, depending on whether and Track conditions. And lastly, we have a 3-Position Rotary Switch to choose one of 3 Drive by wire Throttle Maps. For engine Safety, we set up Limits for too low and to high Coolant temp, Oil temp, Oil press and Fuel press. We are also using full time closed loop lambda and sending a lot of Data over a custom CAN. As you see, the LINK is a very capable system. But as every ECU, it needs a capable tuner to use it properly.
  4. 3 points
    Adamw

    CANBUS OIL Temp from AN8

    Hi Mark, I suspect the problem is your oil temp sensor being on a AV input is not actually assigned to the "oil temp" parameter but rather a "GP Temp" parameter that is not sent in the standard generic dash stream. Attached below is a configurable version of the generic dash stream where I have replaced "oil temp" with AN 8 - Oil temp. MarkHellier.lcs For any others that want it I will also attach an un-modified configurable generic dash stream. Configurable Generic Stream.lcs
  5. 3 points
    Hyperblade

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts... Hardware: For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time. However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first. Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive. To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect. Setup: Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well. The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across. Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet. Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/ It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing). As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu. Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both). Realworld Performance: You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery). It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.
  6. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  7. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  8. 2 points
    cj

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  9. 2 points
    Adamw

    Engine protection question

    Note you can also make your main RPM limit table 3D to add extra parameters. Fuel pressure protection for instance if you use Differential pressure it should be relatively constant under all conditions so you dont need a full 3D table - you could just put it on one axis of the RPM limit table.
  10. 2 points
    Hey, I think this might have been suggested before. But once you start to understand the wall wetting concept, it starts to explain a lot of other concepts which are described seperately in the current software. Example - accel enrichment compensates for changes in wall wetting, but in a fairly crude manner. Cold start cranking enrichment is essentially compensating for fuel film build up over the initial cranking period on a cold engine, and the long time period of "tau" on a cold motor. Fuel cut on decel doesnt really go into this, but if there was awareness of the fuel film depleting during this period then "accel enrichment" would naturally increase again after decel fuel cut. It feels like if this was modelled many of the other enrichment features etc could be done away with or minimised. Here's a great article on it. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/xtau.htm
  11. 2 points
    MarcD

    MX5 Fuel pump always on

    closing this out for the last time! for MX5 NA 1989 1.6 I got a heap of those connectors from Mouser. I rewired fuel pump to be on Aux 5. I wired the purge solenoid back up to Aux 7 and now use the purge solenoid as a cold start air device - small air filter on one opening, other to the inlet manifold, and solenoid activated below 40C. works a treat! also had the separate questions around the AF gauge and where to tap the 12V feed from to only be on when engine is running. Wanted this as when downloading big ECU logs, or fiddling with link, the ECU needs to be on for a while but not engine running, which meant in the old configuration, the AF sensor heater was also on - not good for longevity. Turns out the correct wire is the Blue/Red on the fuel pump relay (yellow re;ay and connector) up above the accelerator. hope this helps someone else in future!
  12. 2 points
    I always tune RB26's with TPS as the main fuel load table. I even use it as the main load on the ignition table with a 4d map for boost correction. I find it makes them much snappier. You are getting fairly low in the injector pulsewidth at idle. It is possible that the dynamics of your particular injectors are not consistent enough at that low of a pulsewidth. You could try to change the 1000 rpm cell at 5.8 psi in your Target AF table to 13.8 or so. If its a low pulsewidth issue this may stabilize it a bit. It seems to be maintaining idle fairly well in the log. Blaine Carmena Carmena Performance
  13. 2 points
    paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    Hi All, I have my car back at home now, out of storage so I'll try and finish this project and document the whole build
  14. 2 points
    paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    Haven't forgotten about this, car still in storage for about another month
  15. 2 points
    mapper

    G4+ subaru wrx V7-10 plugin is a dud

    Wildwestaussi1 think best is if you just leave this forum. A forum is there to help out each other. Only thing you are doing is blaming products and other tuners. If you are incompetend to install and setup such a highend ECU, just don't touch anything and take the car to one of the LINK ECU Tuners you can find on the website. And before you are calling everyone an idiot; I'm a professional Tuner and worked with LINK ECU's on Subaru's for several years. I came never across such a problem you descripted. As you statet, there was alot going on with this engine/car before you have got your hands on. So go and search there for a fault, but don't blame a great ECU manufacturer!
  16. 2 points
    JMP

    Toyota 1zz-fe base map

    The Dash Cluster temp meter is fed direct from the ECU, it will always read cold with every aftermarket ECU apart from Kaizen Garage's ZZE/ZZT Adaptronic based plugin which has an additional circuit onboard to convert the signal to one the cluster can accept. The stock ECU outputs it's engine coolant temperature signal for the dash cluster from pin B-17, on the 22 pin ECU plug. PCB pin THWO. You can trace the signal with an oscilloscope using the stock ECU from dead cold to operating temp and then use an audrino or similar to create a module that will convert one of the vipec outputs to a signal the same as stock the cluster can interpret The narrowband sensor is quite useless, please replace it with a wideband setup You will need to tune all the idle base position tables etc from scratch
  17. 2 points
    Scott

    Honda K20A base map

    Hi Niv, I don't have a base-map. The PCLink help file contains some info for this engine, have a look at: PCLink Help > Engine Specific Information > Honda > Honda K20PCLink Help > Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-throttle > Specific E-Throttle Applications > Honda K20 - 60mm.Scott
  18. 2 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    AEM MAP and IAT Sensor

    Hi, I haven't forgot about this project. I have been very unwell with extreme pain for the last couple of weeks. I am on large doses of very powerful pain medication, so my brain doesn't work correctly while under the influence and it makes me sleep a lot. I have just come back from the doctors again for different medication again, tonight. I have been working on the PCL file for this along with a few other jobs. I needed to know how much boost he wants to run for many reasons, boost cuts, boost control target tables etc, working out what his final fuel pressure will be with static pressure plus full boost pressure etc. Spanning the Y axis on Fuel and Ignition tables and any other tables that will be MAP,MGP etc based AXIS. The more information I can gather the easier it is to set things up. Setting up PCL files for cars that aren't in front of you is quite difficult hence for the many questions. Yes , you are all correct, I DO NOT WORK FOR ViPEC. I enjoy helping others where possible. When I first started I could only ask a random question here or there, I didn't have the luxury of FORUMS or the Internet for help. 99% of what I know I have taught myself through testing , reading and studying etc. It is something you never stop learning. I have been doing this stuff for close to 20 years and there is still so much more to learn, I had many frustrating times trying to sort out issues etc. This is why I try to HELP where possible. I also strongly believe in the product and love it's capabilities. Sure there maybe some things people wish for that aren't possible in earlier versions etc. But for a very fairly priced ECU it sure is loaded with some very impressive features. There are also many ways to control devices under certain operating conditions etc. So by getting involved and helping those out seeking help, I in return learn as well. No one has ever done everything. So having a go at everything that crosses your path will expand your knowledge base 10 fold. So in the process of helping you, at times I am learning also. That is what this FORUM is about, NO BULL$%@T, just cold hard facts and many suggestions to help you all in the long run. Regards Dave.
  19. 1 point
    First step will be to get the PC link tuning software connected to check what the MAP sensor is reading at key on engine not running. Fault 10 and 11 both relate to AN volt 1. It is indicating its at either ground or 5V it cant be both at the same time so there might be a setting issue.
  20. 1 point
    Adamw

    rb25det vct wiring

    It will need to be an ignition switched +12V source.
  21. 1 point
    Simon

    Matching wire for flying lead harness.

    AVSS is what the wire is not ADSS. http://prd.sws.co.jp/cables/en/avss.html
  22. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  23. 1 point
    I will give some comments. The Link CAN Lambda was designed specifically to work with our ECU, it has bi-directional communication so not only is data received from the device but the ECU also sends data to it. This allows the proper warm-up strategy to be applied during start up, EMAP compensation can be applied correctly for situations where there is back pressure and if a sensor is reporting an error condition the ecu can disable CLL or in the case of multiple sensors, ignore the failed one from "lambda average" calculations. The stuff like temperature, heater voltage, etc are mostly only used for diagnostics. Most of the 3rd party devices will have no receive - they only transmit data so they dont know if the engine is running or how long it has been running for to apply the correct warm-up strategy (potentially shorter sensor life). Many of the 3rd party devices will send some sort of error or status message but in many cases it is not in the format that our ecu needs it to be able to do stuff like disable CLL. In some cases you will be able to log these errors but unlikely act upon them. I have used a few of the X-series AEM's on budget installs and they have worked ok for me to date but I do hear/see some reports of short sensor life with them more often than others. To get the extreme response speed they certainly dont use a Bosch chipset or control the sensor in the way Bosch designed it to be so sensor life is possibly a side effect that. Some claim they are not using a genuine Bosch sensor either. Yes, an ecu controlled relay is a good idea. It still wont give the proper heat up strategy but it is better than nothing. No. Free-air cal is not particularly useful in my opinion, it was something made famous by Innovate as they didnt use the Bosch fitted calibration resistor. Air has about 21% O2, exhaust gas has none when less than 1 Lambda. So it only calibrates on the lean side of the curve and even then it is like trying to calibrate your precision 1volt voltmeter using a 2000V source... Ecotrons ones have a good reputation - I have never used one myself but only ever hear good comments about them. If you are not in a big hurry I know 14point7 are releasing a CAN bus "Spartan 3" soon, I tested a prototype a while ago. I use his analog ones for most of my budget installs and have very good success with them.
  24. 1 point
    JMP

    Toyota 86 CAN

    AGT Engineering has all the data for them, he made his own boxes of tricks for engine conversions: https://www.facebook.com/AGTEngineering/
  25. 1 point
    Adamw

    EZ30R MAP

    You had a few settings wrong mostly to do with fuel. I have fixed them in the version below. Fuel table numbers were too small for modelled mode. Lambda target overlay was enabled and was commanding a Lambda between 8-200? Fuel system type changed to MAP referenced. It looks like you havent done the trigger calibration so you need to do that. The rest will just be tuning. 604246050_EZ30rv1.0 fixed.pclr
  26. 1 point
    I've had it working on Windows 10 via USB with no issues, just followed the instructions in the 1st post. That was on the g4+ plugin in my daily driver and on another g4+ Xtreme. It didn't work on my G4+ Storm as that doesn't have the datastream mode required
  27. 1 point
    I solved the problem. The cam sensors started to bleed through +12 to the signal wire when they got warm. I changed the supply to +5V and everything seems to be working fine now =). everywhere I looked the sensors should be +12v, but that was obviously wrong. Don't believe everything on the internet, haha. Big thanks for the support!
  28. 1 point
    Adamw

    60-2 crank and 36-1 cas

    You have two options: You can modify the cam sensor so it has just one tooth/slot - then it will work with the 60-2 crank. You can forget about the 60-2 and just use the 36-2 on the cam - this will give you all you need for full sequential but means your main engine position signal has some error due to the cam drive system backlash.
  29. 1 point
    Adamw

    Evo Thunder Wiring

    Sounds like you have this a bit mixed up? Pin 4 is the SAS and it is connected to Ign 6. It would typically only be used for some rally antilag setups so thats why you dont see it in the base map. Our diagram shows the purge valve is connected to pin 16, but in our plugin ECU we dont control that at all. Our plug-in doesnt have anything connected to these pins, they are not really needed. I believe the Factory ECU grounds the "G pin" at wide open throttle to turn the alternator off. You can connect that to an aux out if you wish. Without it connected it will just charge all the time. Connect Thunder "Ign Sw " pin to Evo pin 99 (ignition switch). Connect Thunder "Main relay +" to Evo pin 57. Connect Thunder "Main relay -" to any ground. ECU +14V can connect to Evo pins 59 & 47. You may also need to add a separate relay for "+14V Aux9/10" power supply if you are fitting E-throttle.
  30. 1 point
    Adamw

    CAN dash setup

    The Plex dashes have the termination resistor built in so you should be ok there. Correct that the CANPCB cable is not twisted but I have never seen that cause a problem, it is only ~150mm long. Can you attach your .pclr file so I can take a quick look at your settings.
  31. 1 point
    Adamw

    Digital speed inputs

    I rarely use the folder view, I normally find the search box easier. So if I search "wheel" in you map I get the below list of parameters. Although either will work, I would use the generic "LF Wheel Speed" without the -DI** on the end.
  32. 1 point
    Adamw

    Bosch MAP Sensor 0281002316

    That looks to me like it is a Diesel MAP sensor as it only measures down to 50KPa, it wont be much good for a petrol engine. Its quoted range is 50-400KPa. ProductDetail.pdf
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Adamw

    m52b28 v88 ecu injectors not firing

    With laptop connected to ECU, press F12 key to open up the Runtimes screen. Move to the triggers/limits tab. Crank the engine and have a look at the 3 parameters shown below. Both triggers should be green - Yes, and RPM should show 150-200.
  35. 1 point
    Adamw

    Digital Input State Via CAN

    You can't modify the preconfigured streams, normally you have to start from scratch. I do already have a configurable version of the generic dash stream that I can post here later when I'm at work. I think I also have some modified MXS configs that you can copy from.
  36. 1 point
    blaine@carmenaperformance

    RX-7 Sequential Twins

    No progress yet. In the process of rebuilding the 13B. The new ECU will be going in towards the middle of next month. I dont foresee major issues with it but will definitely take some R&D time.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    gojira

    Engine fan control before start

    i use 1 fan PWM controlled and 1 fan by relay ON/OFF I made a 3D table for the PWM fan RPMS vs ECT But on 0rpm and 500rpm i set 0%, that AUX is set as GP OUTPUT PWM, if i set a % value on the coloms 0Rpm and 500Rpm, then the fan is running while engine is not started. Like Adamw says : when selected Engine fan on a AUX, that fan will only be running when engine is started.
  39. 1 point
    Shedley

    BMW s54 vanos set up

    Hello I've done the same engine with the same ecu curently. Base settings are in the help file, this should get you started... Just don't forget to remove the diodes at the VANOS Unit
  40. 1 point
    Adamw

    MY05 Subaru Forester XT - G4+ Thunder

    I havent thought this logic through in great detail, but this screen shot should give you the basic idea. In this example, Aux 8 will be on when condition 1 or 2 is true. Condition 1 would be the running engine conditions - lets say RPM is >10RPM . Condition 2 will be your shut down timer - When RPM falls below 10, Timer 1 is "activated" by virtual Aux 1 which will then start counting up (to 40sec) in the background, When Aux 8 condition 2 sees the timer count hit 30 seconds it shuts off oil pump. Clear as mud? Hopefully its easier than it sounds on screen... I would try it like this and see if it behaves as expected - the part Im not sure about is the timer might start timing as soon as you turn ignition on (before you start engine), if it does you might need to add another condition to prevent that. how to screenshot on windows
  41. 1 point
    Adamw

    check my pcl, need help

    Can you attach your .pclr also?
  42. 1 point
    Scott

    Power Graph

    Hi Grant, Something like that would be quite cool. I'll pass this onto the engineers. I'm unsure where this would fit in their priority queue. Scott
  43. 1 point
    Rich RDE

    Expansion connector

    You can order these connectors and pins through a company called Digi key. I do this as some customers only request a certain amount of pins and like to keep things as neat and tidy as possible. www.digikey.com Pins part #455-2051-1-ND Connector part #455-2154-ND
  44. 1 point
    Paul Hassell

    TWIN SUZUKI GSXR INSTALL.

    Hi guys, we started a thread a while ago enquiring about the plan to put 2x G4 Storms on our twin engined Autograss racecar here in the UK. We have done the 1st phase of the closed season rebuild with a full strip and nut and bolt rebuild, the 2nd phase starts this weekend with the Link install. We will no doubt have a few questions so hopefully we will use this thread to show what we are doing and draw on the expertise within this forum to assist us.
  45. 1 point
    Scott

    Setup Analog to Can Converter

    Possibly. The problem with the haltech CAN devices I have seen is that they do not publish the CAN data layout, so trying to configure your vi-pec/link to suit is not easy. However if you can get the data then no reason it shouldn't work. Also other manufacturers produce units that are able to be used (Motec E888, etc)
  46. 1 point
    Hi Tony, We now offer an upgrade service to add e-throttle to plug-in ECUs that did not originally come with e-throttle. For us to be able to do the upgrade the ECU Type needs to be 'G4+ Xtreme Top Board'. You can check this on your ECU by looking at Help > ECU Information in PCLink. The ECU will need to be sent back to us in New Zealand. If you would like more information, or to go ahead please email tech@linkecu.com
  47. 1 point
    Not sure how you missed the wiring: Set your aux output to ISC solenoid and select a suitable frequency. Most of the settings under Idle speed control apply to both stepper or solenoid types.
  48. 1 point
    Simon

    aem uego wideband / Antilag

    For the AEM you will need to select a custom cal, CAL 4 5 or 6 will do the trick. You then need to enter the voltage and Lambda values for point a and point b. Is this the AEM O2 unit you are using? http://aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-4110 Digital Wideband UEGO Gauge.pdf According to that the calibration should be 0.00v = 0.683 Lambda (10.00 AFR Petrol) 4.99v = 1.365 Lambda (19.98 AFR Petrol)
  49. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    Audi TT quattro (Haldex) ?

    Simon, get back to bed, your too sick to be on here Regards Dave.
  50. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    rev limit g4+ atom

    Hi PRO CAR GARAGE, If you could be more precise on exactly what parameters you wish for the rev limiter to work I could set it up exactly. I have attached a sample of how to setup a basic GP REV LIMITER 2. Regards Dave.
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