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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/24/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    NEW WEB SITE IS STUNNING.

    Hi all, I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE. The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye. Very pleasant to scan through the pages. The format is very well laid out. Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general. I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry. I have also really enjoyed working with the LINK team over all of these years and hope to continue doing so. So congratulations LINK and very well done. Keep going on this fantastic journey. Regards Dave Kriedeman PRO TUNING.
  2. 1 point
    Adamw

    Sensors to Link

    That grey wire on pin 36 probably is in the engine bay somewhere not connected to anything. But it wont be easy to find, it will be hidden under the covering. It will be easier to depin it and swap to your AFM wire.
  3. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Sensors to Link

    you probably already have an intake air temp. sensor (or a charge temp. sensor). If possible, turn the ignition on with the G4+ connected to pc-link, and have a look at the runtime values (F12) , see if An Temp2 is connected or if it is erroring. You will need to cut the wire on pin 29 (which was narrowband o2), and connect that to the AEM wideband wire. If you look at the diagram I posted above (Nissan diagram) , you will see there are multiple grounds all connected. They are all internally connected inside the Link ECU so it doesn't really matter which one you use (although I would be inclined to use a sensor ground wire like pin 50 rather than a power ground wire)
  4. 1 point
    dx4picco

    Sensors to Link

    grounds for these should be on the sensor ground pin on the ecu. not on the chassis. The Zada Tech oiltemp doesn't have outputs. its only a display
  5. 1 point
    MichaelR32GTR

    Link fury wideband issue

    Problem solved ! new “resistor” spark plugs went in ecu logging is off aswell and wideband doesn’t drop out and works perfectly thanks once again !
  6. 1 point
    Ach na dann halt auf deutsch melde dich mal auf whatsapp ‪+1 (727) 485‑6673‬
  7. 1 point
    Adamw

    Evo9 fluctation RPM

    Yes there are 4 teeth on the Evo 9 intake cam. (only 2 on the exhaust cam). No, The cam is forced to the home position during the angle test. You do need to be above the RPM and ECT lockouts but yours are set low so that should have been fine.
  8. 1 point
    Adamw

    high impedance Injectors RB30E+T

    The special drivers on the VL plug-in run high imp injectors no drama with no changes to settings required or even possible.
  9. 1 point
    Adamw

    Evo9 fluctation RPM

    Are you still getting no cam position reported for the VVT intake cam? Your DI settings look correct so I would probably start by running the cam angle test for the LH inlet cam and use the results from that test to confirm your DI offset is correct. Instructions are in the help file, G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control > Cam Angle Test. Use a test pulse count of 4.
  10. 1 point
    Adamw

    Evo9 fluctation RPM

    Yes, definitely looks like the cam sensor. We can mostly rule out wiring as if there was a bad connection we would see the signal go to 5V, but yours drops to 0V when it is playing up. It would pay to check that the chopper disc hasnt come lose on the end of the camshaft but otherwise I would try replacing the cam sensor.
  11. 1 point
    Tim D

    dashboard arduino

    There's lots of ways of achieving what you want and I am happy to share my approach which works well. I stream 56 bytes (7 frames) from ECU to dash, then broadcast this data over bluetooth (if laptop is running, the data is logged). I'm guessing you don't have other CAN devices on the same CAN bus as your dash? In this case, the concept of priorities is not that relevant (there won't be any other CAN traffic to contend with). In my MBED dash, I stream 7 frames all on the same CAN ID of 1300 (arbitrary ID). These byes are streamed 'end to end' (as observed on oscilloscope), leaving a lot of time after the last frame to do my processing. All that's required is to write your arduino firmware to recognise the stream. My dash also broadcasts the data wirelessly to my laptop, giving error free datalogging (I chose to stream this at 10 Hz). You are welcome to look at my CAN setup: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pjCW7otZjlRO3j8JqtsJj-2yhvleHtnw
  12. 1 point
    Adamw

    dashboard arduino

    Dont use frame ID's for now, this will make what I called a compound message earlier and will make your life more difficult. You can choose whatever you like. The main requirement is every message needs it's own ID and no two devices can be sending the same ID. Lower numbers get higher priority when there is a lot of data on a busy bus but that is not going to be a factor in your case. In OEM buses you will find safety critical devices like ABS and DSC will all be high priority ID's, like <100.
  13. 1 point
    Vaughan

    What version is my ECU?

    Sorry I read that wrong, I missed the 1.8 part on the bottom board, yes 1.8 on the bottom board is EThrottle
  14. 1 point
    Adamw

    What version is my ECU?

    The V number on the base map file refers to the bottom board revision, so for your V1.8 board you should be using the Base map "Mitsubishi EVO 9 PCB V1.6+ G4+ Xtreme Plugin".
  15. 1 point
    Adamw

    Evo9 fluctation RPM

    It is definitely a trigger problem but may not necessarily be a crank sensor, it could be the cam sensor or an intermittent connection or a noise issue. Next time it is playing up can you do a triggerscope and attach it here. Here is how: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=fGBwPM
  16. 1 point
    Vaughan

    g4+ evo 9 digital 8

    It is
  17. 1 point
    Electredge

    Iat Inquiry

    Remsk2, you should look into setting up charge temp table, for IAT sensors that are mounted in the intake manifold it creates a bias that you can setup for ignoring IAT temps under certain circumstances. for ex. low rpm / idle you can have the table only watch ECT and once the rpms pick up and load comes up it can bias the other way. hope that helps
  18. 1 point
    BikeMurgunder

    Toyota 2GR-FE 1st Start Issues

    Well, that absolutely did it. It was 360 degrees out. Thank you guys so much. I still have a ton to do, but i can at least move forward!
  19. 1 point
    Adamw

    DI 7 and DI 8 WRXLink9+ setup problems

    The labels on the board are correct
  20. 1 point
    Adamw

    DI 7 and DI 8 WRXLink9+ setup problems

    The “e-throttle “ refers to whether the ecu is capable of controlling an ethrottle system or not. Older ecu’s (more than about 3years old) didn’t have the aux 9and 10 outputs on the expansion connector which are required to drive e-throttle. All V7-9 cars are cable throttle from the factory as far as I know.
  21. 1 point
    AEWON

    SR20DET Base Timing issues/no start

    Turning trigger disc other way around and setting timing offset to -100 has sorted the issue and vehicle started first pop
  22. 1 point
    Electredge

    NC Miata Trigger Pattern

    Thank you Vaughan, much appreciated
  23. 1 point
    h82lose91

    Aux4 Output Grounded All The Time

    Im wired to Pin 11, Both Pinouts for Ethrottle and NON Ethrottle in my manual show AUX 4, which was the confusion.
  24. 1 point
    Vaughan

    NC Miata Trigger Pattern

    Looks like the NC uses the Mazda 3 trigger pattern which is supported by G4+ and G4X
  25. 1 point
    Adamw

    DI 7 and DI 8 WRXLink9+ setup problems

    Go back to basic's. Unplug the expansion loom. Get a little jumper wire or paperclip etc and short the DI7 or 8 pin to the 5V pin that is in exp 2 connector - does your DI then show active?
  26. 1 point
    ellisd1984

    G4X PC Link issue

    I'll take a video when I get a minute Heres a small video showing the problem. Not sure if it makes any difference but I'm running an old macbook pro with a windows partition https://www.dropbox.com/s/spfw1ivlpiznki6/20200525_094419.mp4?dl=0
  27. 1 point
    Joe Bucci

    Battery Voltage Issue

    Great! That’s simple enough. Thank you!
  28. 1 point
    smason

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    Well I have an update! I've been working almost non stop so I've been very busy. But this will be the finale - I think. I have just been driving with the tachometer which is less twitchy, and no speedometer. Well as legend has it, last night I was driving to work, and the speedometer came to life! I changed nothing. I did nothing. The RC circuit works and it is kind of accurate. The multiplier works but the speedo is just 'out' at higher speeds. No fault of the G4. This is a classic representation of a USDM 240sx and it's troubles.
  29. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link g4+

    If you send it back to Link head office in NZ we can do a "bottom board swap", this is where we switch the adapter board for one that matches your car. It is pretty reasonable cost, from memory <NZD$300. It has to be done in-house as it goes through a production test afterwards to confirm all is working correctly.
  30. 1 point
    JMP

    Link fury wideband issue

    I'll bet that's your problem, tons of EMI from non resistor plugs
  31. 1 point
    JMP

    Link fury wideband issue

    wouldn't happen to be running non-resistor spark plugs?
  32. 1 point
    nothing wrong with the sound of the exhaust, I'm not hearing any misfires ? And I would not have used the quoted valve clearances...always go a little bigger.
  33. 1 point
    remski2

    Link fury wideband issue

    I'd look into grounding. You mentioned a custom Mil-spec harness. Hopefully you get a diagram so you can verify where the grounds go and if they are clean. Dont forget about the sensor grounds as well.. As far as I know they are not supposed to be grounded. You could run a voltage drop test to check or just run new separate grounds and see if anything changes. Could also be a nicked wire..
  34. 1 point
    Vaughan

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    Just a thought, when sending that aux signal through teh RC circuit through the dash are you sending it through the wires which used to go to the gearbox sensor or through the factory speed input into the ECU wires? In my Stagea the speed wires to the dash run the length of the gearbox and go in to a plug in he engine bay then through the body loom to the dash, a modified version of this signal is then sent from the speedo across the car t the ECU as a speed input for the ECU. This means that there are two speed wires for the dash cluster, one in and one out (+ the signal grounds of course).
  35. 1 point
    Adamw

    STi DBC to DBW conversion

    Are you checking the revision number on the bottom "Adapter board" as per pic below. The top board may maybe V1.5 which is current, I think the bottom boards are up to V1.8 now
  36. 1 point
    Adamw

    STi DBC to DBW conversion

    Yes, provided you have a WRX9+ ecu revision 1.7 or later you will have DI10 available of pin A3.
  37. 1 point
    Are you sure you were using the right config file before? Because I already had the CAN output set up correctly in the config I attached above.
  38. 1 point
    Ok, try these. The ECU should receive parameter "Lambda 1" and "Lambda 1 Temp" from the dash. MXm with lambda transmit.zconfig 1_SubaruWRXSTIV8JF1GDBLH33G045680 with lambda.pclr
  39. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    MAP or MGP for fuel table

    Hi, to put things into an easier perspective, if you use MGP as your axis you will have true Barometric compensation, if you just use MAP the baro comp will not be applied and you may have mixture issues at altitude. Regards Dave.
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