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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I would say the timing doesnt look unusally high for 8.2CR with E85, but it also doesnt look tuned at all to me, it looks like someone has just made up the numbers. Why have so many rows with exactly the same numbers on them? You would be better to just delete them all. Seems pretty odd to have the same timing at 207Kpa than you have at 138Kpa. And as JMP says, that big step between 1500 & 2000 is gnarly.
  2. 2 points

    G4 link new E-throttle module wiring

    Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  3. 2 points

    ARF Choice

    http://dealers.linkecu.com/can-lambda CAN Lambda
  4. 1 point
    Ken Dunkley

    V8 Distributor modification

    Hi - I did this to the MSD distributor on my Dodge V8 . I timed the dizzy as you would ordinarily- found the no1 tooth and ground off the remaining 7 . The MSD dizzy had the facility to lock it - so no centrifugal advance comes into play . Also it is a VR type pickup . When i timed the gap on the 60-2 wheel i used - it was approx 90 degrees away from when TDC occurred at the dizzy . I had no issues with phasing of the gaps so cant say either way about that .
  5. 1 point

    Thunder lambda sensors

    Im not convinced if it is actually caused by electrical noise or if it is actually the throttle blade moving due to vibration or poor adjustment or lumpy vacuum etc. The "noise" seems to mostly disappear when you open the throttle. Has the cable got plenty of free play and the throttle blade is sitting on a mechanical stop etc? What is the throttle body on this thing? Note you need to calibate your TPS as it is showing 40% at idle.
  6. 1 point
    Either could be. You adjust the gains so that you see equal knock levels reported on all cylinders. Typically the cylinders that are further away from the sensor need higher gain so I would say if the knock sensor is somewhere near the centre of the engine on these then the bottom set of gains look more like what I would expect. The best frequency for knock detection can be biased by many modifications so what works well for someone else may not be right for you. For instance hanging a different turbo/manifold off the side of an engine will usually change its knock signature.
  7. 1 point
    Why do you want to change it in the first place ? ( either will work ) And why on earth are you scaling things to 400kpa ! Find a competent tuner and get it done right. Although at least the idle area has become a bit more sensible.
  8. 1 point

    LAt and Lond Accel values

    The accel channels only work with the Thunder ECU which has built in accelerometers. You should be able to use the gearshift control function to do the downshift blip. It will look at clutch switch and throttle position to determine if it is an upshift or downshift and apply the appropriate strategy from there.
  9. 1 point
    Connect to the factory knock sensor wiring. Bosch 0 261 231 006 is a common wideband part number.
  10. 1 point

    Force GDI no output on DI pump driver

    Attach your basemap or send it to tech@linkecu.com
  11. 1 point
    Motec use hexidecimal notation for the CAN ID/Address, Link use decimal. Hex 384 (motec end) is decimal 900 (set at link end). Motec use the terminology "Alignment: word swap" to refer to LS byte first, so change that to normal. Uncheck the "signed" checkbox in the motec setup as you are sending from the Link unsigned data. Put a multiplier of 10 at either the Link end or Motec end. This is because Motec uses 0.1°C resolution for EGT, Link uses 1.0°C.
  12. 1 point

    Cold Start

    Would it be a 2 wire Ford idle valve? If you need some throttle before it can start, it might mean that you are injecting too much fuel. Try to use less and see how it goes. When the engine does not start, did it kick back at all?
  13. 1 point

    Cold Start

    I dont know these engines well but the idle valve aux output is set to 20Hz, that is way lower than typical and I suspect the valve wont control well at all like that. More typical is 100-300Hz. Most ford valves seem to be happy around 150Hz.
  14. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Cold Start

    Can you post a log of the start up? That would help. Also, check the idle valve isn't stuck, that's quite common. To free them up, we take them out, leave them connected and spray some penetrating fluid in, while setting the aux out to PWM test at about 10Hz. At a glance, I would increase your max. clamp in the idle speed settings, and also try a higher idle proportional gain. (although your idle screw might need opening a touch) HTH, Richard.
  15. 1 point

    Obd2 Bluetooth Reader and Torque App?

    Yes. Thats the new one..
  16. 1 point

    ARF Choice

    No Brianer, the Link CAN Lambda as we have the ability to see the controller status of the sensor, plus the ECU can extend the life of the sensor by many fold due to starting and stopping the heater at the correct times.
  17. 1 point

    VL Link Injector Upgrade

    You are over thinking it - Just bump the master up or down until it runs the best. Our base map appears to be set up for quite large injectors already - probably bigger than 1000cc by the looks. I would expect a 600cc injector will want a master fuel more like 10-14ms.
  18. 1 point
    Ideally 2x rear and 1x front yes. A basic system will work fine with 1x rear and 1x front
  19. 1 point
    Yes - that will be fine.
  20. 1 point

    LINK G4+

    You have it mostly right. 4 tooth sensor goes to trig 1, single tooth sensor goes to trig 2. Both are reluctors. Set trigger mode to "1 tooth per TDC" Set trig 2 sync mode to "cam pulse 1X" and sync position according to where the single tooth is located.
  21. 1 point

    LINK G4+

    I beleive that this is correct - just like a sr20DE i setup recently both trig 1 and trig 2 are driven off the CAS that is located inside the distributor cap and no crank trigger is needed. Ive just had a quick google on trigger setup for this engine and there seems to be alot of info on Megasquirt formums regarding trigger wiring etc. You can most likely get your answers off that.
  22. 1 point

    Need Help turning on Car

    That TPS singal looks better but you still need to run a re-calibration as the first 10-20% of the pedal travel isnt being registered, but that isn't why its stopping at 1500rpm. spark, fuel, afr all look normal. Does it backfire/stutter/etc at 1500 or does it just sound like you're only holding your foot down 20%? It still looks like a mechnical blockage somewhere. If you disconnect the intake piping at the manifold can you rev it higher? This will rule out blocked filter etc. Can you spin the turbo by hand? if it were seized you could be blocking up both the intake and exhaust side which would do something like this. Are your cams intalled properly? either cam being off by a couple teeth (or adjusted too far if they can adjusted) could show up like this. The only ecu-ish thing I can see that might be relevant is that you still have your MAF hooked up, but its calibration is all wrong and the ECU thinks its a fuel pressure sensor! you dont have it configured to use this pressure in the fuelling calculations, so it shouldnt be relevant but its a bit strange. It also only ever shows "pressure" on overrun when you jump off the throttle. This was the same as your last log too. This could be your recirc valve opening and dumping boost, but you shouldnt have any boost there to vent as it never breaks 100kpa at open throttle. I'm not exactly sure what this means the fault is but if it were me i'd look into this a bit and see where it leads.
  23. 1 point

    Evo 8 dbw wiring diagram

    The physical Aux 9 output should be connected to the Motor + as per the help file Simon pointed out above. In the software set Aux 4 to "E-Throttle Signal 1" and set Aux 9 to "E-throttle Signal 2".
  24. 1 point

    Evo 8 dbw wiring diagram

    Aux9 in the software controls Aux 10 - conversely Aux4 controls Aux 9
  25. 1 point

    High low boost setup

    It is still not clear what you are asking but a common set up would be as below. 2 wastegate tables, switched between via your switch. When the switch is off it will use table 1, watsegate will be sent 0%DC, when the switch is on table 2 will become active and wastegate will get 50%DC. These numbers are just made up to give you an example.
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