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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/28/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    NEW WEB SITE IS STUNNING.

    Hi all, I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE. The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye. Very pleasant to scan through the pages. The format is very well laid out. Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general. I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry. I have also really enjoyed working with the LINK team over all of these years and hope to continue doing so. So congratulations LINK and very well done. Keep going on this fantastic journey. Regards Dave Kriedeman PRO TUNING.
  2. 2 points
    Adamw

    Flex/ Temp Sensor in one?

    All flex fuel sensors do that. The signal is a PWM, the Ethanol % is the frequency and the temp is DC or pulse width. You just set the DI to "ethanol sensor" and both Ethanol % and temp will be available in the ECU.
  3. 2 points
    Example of how this could be done on a G4X using Aux 1 as the tacho output, anv 1 as the oil pressure and DI1 as the switch Tacho as gauge.pclx
  4. 2 points
    A little update. This issue has come back where the car will be idle'ing perfectly fine and all of the sudden the car just shuts off. I've noticed a few things as I was watching the computer while the issues occurred. In my most recent occurrence the car would hit ECT of 180, go rich and die out. I initially thought it was something to do with my post start but didnt make complete sense as the car was out of Post Start. Then checked Warm-Up Enrichment. This was my next logical progression as the car might be looking for a little fuel adjustment? so I copied my values from the cells where the car was idle'ing fine but no change to the dying at 180degrees ECT. This didn't make complete sense bc the car was dying rich and copying over cells from the warm-up map would mean it'd be adding fuel. I was poking around in my fan settings and I that I had them set at 180 degrees (which is relatively low but I run a single 10" fan and I give it a little bit of a head start). I adjusted the engine fan activation temp up to 190d and the going-rich and dying out followed the 190d temperatures I set the fans to. What was strange the Link has Fan #1, Fan #2, and Fan #3. While OEM only has Fan #1 and #2 but the car would die even if Fan #3 was trigger by the ECT rising. Did a little poking around, unplugged the fan, and the go rich and dying continued. Back in the PCLink Software (embarrassingly, right in front of my face) my Idle Gain Trim was set to 2ms for the engine fan. The fan activation temp would activate the fan and the Idle Gain would add 2ms of additional fuel, run my mixture rich and it'd kill the engine. I set the idle gain trim to zero and the engine idles like you'd expect.
  5. 1 point
    Electredge

    Iat Inquiry

    Remsk2, you should look into setting up charge temp table, for IAT sensors that are mounted in the intake manifold it creates a bias that you can setup for ignoring IAT temps under certain circumstances. for ex. low rpm / idle you can have the table only watch ECT and once the rpms pick up and load comes up it can bias the other way. hope that helps
  6. 1 point
    BikeMurgunder

    Toyota 2GR-FE 1st Start Issues

    Well, that absolutely did it. It was 360 degrees out. Thank you guys so much. I still have a ton to do, but i can at least move forward!
  7. 1 point
    AEWON

    SR20DET Base Timing issues/no start

    Turning trigger disc other way around and setting timing offset to -100 has sorted the issue and vehicle started first pop
  8. 1 point
    Electredge

    NC Miata Trigger Pattern

    Thank you Vaughan, much appreciated
  9. 1 point
    h82lose91

    Aux4 Output Grounded All The Time

    Im wired to Pin 11, Both Pinouts for Ethrottle and NON Ethrottle in my manual show AUX 4, which was the confusion.
  10. 1 point
    Vaughan

    NC Miata Trigger Pattern

    Looks like the NC uses the Mazda 3 trigger pattern which is supported by G4+ and G4X
  11. 1 point
    Adamw

    DI 7 and DI 8 WRXLink9+ setup problems

    Go back to basic's. Unplug the expansion loom. Get a little jumper wire or paperclip etc and short the DI7 or 8 pin to the 5V pin that is in exp 2 connector - does your DI then show active?
  12. 1 point
    ellisd1984

    G4X PC Link issue

    I'll take a video when I get a minute Heres a small video showing the problem. Not sure if it makes any difference but I'm running an old macbook pro with a windows partition https://www.dropbox.com/s/spfw1ivlpiznki6/20200525_094419.mp4?dl=0
  13. 1 point
    Joe Bucci

    Battery Voltage Issue

    Great! That’s simple enough. Thank you!
  14. 1 point
    smason

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    Well I have an update! I've been working almost non stop so I've been very busy. But this will be the finale - I think. I have just been driving with the tachometer which is less twitchy, and no speedometer. Well as legend has it, last night I was driving to work, and the speedometer came to life! I changed nothing. I did nothing. The RC circuit works and it is kind of accurate. The multiplier works but the speedo is just 'out' at higher speeds. No fault of the G4. This is a classic representation of a USDM 240sx and it's troubles.
  15. 1 point
    JMP

    Link fury wideband issue

    wouldn't happen to be running non-resistor spark plugs?
  16. 1 point
    remski2

    Link fury wideband issue

    I'd look into grounding. You mentioned a custom Mil-spec harness. Hopefully you get a diagram so you can verify where the grounds go and if they are clean. Dont forget about the sensor grounds as well.. As far as I know they are not supposed to be grounded. You could run a voltage drop test to check or just run new separate grounds and see if anything changes. Could also be a nicked wire..
  17. 1 point
    Vaughan

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    Just a thought, when sending that aux signal through teh RC circuit through the dash are you sending it through the wires which used to go to the gearbox sensor or through the factory speed input into the ECU wires? In my Stagea the speed wires to the dash run the length of the gearbox and go in to a plug in he engine bay then through the body loom to the dash, a modified version of this signal is then sent from the speedo across the car t the ECU as a speed input for the ECU. This means that there are two speed wires for the dash cluster, one in and one out (+ the signal grounds of course).
  18. 1 point
    neil brown

    G4 Internal Map sensor

    Ask for 4 bar part number mpx4400ap I think
  19. 1 point
    neil brown

    G4 Internal Map sensor

    Basically yes and remember to turn off an5 as cant have 2 map Sensors active
  20. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4 Xtreme CAN bus update

    email tech@linkecu.com and they will give you an RMA form or similar to arrange the mod. Yes, 36-1 or similar missing tooth crank wheel will be a good option and give you all you need for wasted spark and multigroup injection. No need or advantage for a cam sensor in this case. Going crank trigger, getting rid of the distributor and having 3D mapable ignition will transform an old engine like this.
  21. 1 point
    Adamw

    Wheel speed from CAN input

    You dont need to set up any input, you just need to assign which wheel/wheels you want to use for driven and non driven in the speed sources menu. For a FWD road car the best choice for driven is probably "Max Front speed", and for non driven "Average rear speed".
  22. 1 point
    In general I think it probably wants a bit more accel enrichment all over but if if drives ok without any flatspots or hesitation then i wouldnt worry about the general low load cruising stuff that your first pic shows.. The lean spike in your second pic at the 9:23 mark I would be more concerned about since it is at WOT and peak torque RPM so it is going to be pretty prone to knock around that area. Its hard to tell if it really is lean there or if it is something like a misfire that makes the probe read lean? On the short burst you gave it just prior to this one (~9:21) it didnt go anywhere near as lean. The main difference I can see from a fueling perspective was due to it being from lower RPM so got more accel enrichment. So you could try adding a bit more accel enrichment above 4000 to see if it has any influence. Generally you dont need much above 4000, but it depends on injectors etc.
  23. 1 point
    Adamw

    Convert kph to mph

    Are you looking at a pc log or ecu log? Maybe you didn’t log it?
  24. 1 point
    Adamw

    STi DBC to DBW conversion

    Yes, provided you have a WRX9+ ecu revision 1.7 or later you will have DI10 available of pin A3.
  25. 1 point
    Are you sure you were using the right config file before? Because I already had the CAN output set up correctly in the config I attached above.
  26. 1 point
    Aussiemick

    Removing glue from old circuitboard.

    How do I remove the glue from where the circuit board joins the enclosure on a VL ecu.
  27. 1 point
    Adamw

    Sensors & boost control

    The ECU has a MAP sensor on board so boost is already taken care of. IAT is already there. Oil pressure in a GTR is not connected to the ECU, it is just a standalone gauge in the dash. So my suggestions below are not really super important items to have displayed on the dash but they are good to have connected to the ecu so you can set up some safeties and/or log them (of course they are available to display on the dash too): Oil pressure. Fuel Pressure. Lambda. If its doing track work you may want to consider oil temp also. For boost control you will need a 3 port mac valve. Any Link dealer can supply all of this or there are various 3rd party options. For the Lambda I would highly recommend a CAN bus type controller. For the pressure sensors make sure they are a decent reputable brand.
  28. 1 point
    Thanks Working well
  29. 1 point
    Ok, try these. The ECU should receive parameter "Lambda 1" and "Lambda 1 Temp" from the dash. MXm with lambda transmit.zconfig 1_SubaruWRXSTIV8JF1GDBLH33G045680 with lambda.pclr
  30. 1 point
    bradsm87

    Bluetooth Adapter for Dash - Success

    https://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2 Your plug looks like the Amphenol LTW AU-06BFFA-LL7001 but with a sleeve over the top of the centre according to the pic on your web site. What's the go with the sleeve?
  31. 1 point
    Wow thanks very much. It's simple once you look at it already done but I never would have thought of doing it that way. Cheers!
  32. 1 point
    The afr lean at 4-4.5k rpm is cause misfire, I have add fuel up to 10ve+, it still misfire at that range of rpm
  33. 1 point
    Adamw

    Injector 5 & 6 won’t fire

    Might need a bit more info, what ECU, what car, what engine. What changed between them working and not working?
  34. 1 point
    swi

    No RPM when cranking

    I set the triggers to that of the v7-10 jdm and the trigger arming threshold to the v7 and it fired right up. thanks again guys I scoped the new waveform but I somehow lost them or didn't save them in the correct format, so i'll take new ones and upload those later.
  35. 1 point
    Adamw

    Need help on cold start tune

    Next time do a PC log with all parameters recorded. This video shows how to set it up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A It is already running speed density. The MAF is only there for air temp. Looking at the little info in your log I would say your MAP sensor calibration looks a bit off, it idles at 20Kpa and goes down to 2Kpa during over run. Unfortunately if it is reading wrong then when you swap to a MAP sensor that is reading right it is going to affect the whole tune. The warm-up enrichment also looks pretty extreme for modelled mode and the IAT should have been turned off for modelled mode.
  36. 1 point
    remski2

    Need help on cold start tune

    Your log doesnt contain much info. (not even engine rpm) Reconfigure the logging part and for PC logging, you can add pretty much all variables. Then run it again and post the new log.
  37. 1 point
    Adamw

    Over run fuel Cut diognostic help

    There is no way to know without being there yourself. The original explanation of the problem was "What I'm getting is immediate loss of power when I put my foot down" so I get the feeling from that it is not just a problem at peak boost but all the way up.
  38. 1 point
    armog

    R33 GTST TPS DROPPING

    It does not happen under hard load, only under very light load when taking off from a stop or a light. I was able to use the factory cable by routing it differently. I can try an s14 cable as its longer and use the other location on the throttle body and see what happens as well as a new tps. I also noticed the throttle cable is different between my friends r34gtt (longer).
  39. 1 point
    Where did you get the can information from? Do you have copies of any of the factory CAN bus messages?
  40. 1 point
    post up a copy of your basemap and I'll see if I can set it up how I would expect to be
  41. 1 point
    width has to be 2 as it is a 2bit value, not sure if it needs to be MS First or LS first, what vehicle is this PS system from? what have you got setup in the mode tab?
  42. 1 point
    Vaughan

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    If you have more than one output set to tacho you will run into problems, turn off that second tacho output
  43. 1 point
    Adamw

    User defined CAN stream settings

    Extending from Vaughan's info, the test calculate is your friend for working this out, often easier to do it by trial and error rather than trying to do the math in your head. Here is your "2380" value with D=1, M=1, O=0, it will be logged/displayed as -762.0: Now with M=10, O=10000 we have something that looks right: To confirm works correctly over the full range, now we try "0" CAN data, if we get a matching 0 in PC link then we are good:
  44. 1 point
    Paschalis

    G4x atomx

    Inll come back tomorrow with a correct log I hope...thanks for your time
  45. 1 point
    Vaughan

    G4x atomx

    From that log it looks like you might need to add more warm up enrichment along the top row
  46. 1 point
    Davidv

    Beams 3SGE + G4+ Xtreme 1983 Toyota Carina

    I've been doing some work on making a crude engine simulator, so if I'm using something else that I want to test that has Canbus I can just hook them up to each other and expect similarish results that my engine would give. So it needs an airflow model. So far I'm just using these simple factors to determine how much airflow the engine could potentially be consuming RPM How much air per cyl at 100% VE How max VE tapers each side of max torque RPM based friction losses Potential horsepower based on mass flow Then I've modelled a throttle body too, which has an exponentially increasing/decreasing flow rate based on angle. So if the angle allows you to flow more air than what the engine is trying to consume, MAP stays at 101kpa and the engine can reach its full throttle VE value. But if the throttle is closed further than this, then it shows the number as dictated by throttle angle but also generates a map sensor value. Which then generates a pumping losses number based on MAP and RPM. So the idea here is that it can simulate the situation where the engine is still able to flow 100% of its potential power even at lower throttle, if the engines airflow demand is low enough. Even if he airflow number is fixed the actual power number changes a little through the RPM sweep due to differing losses. So to add more features I basically add more things which potentially take away from max power if they are non optimal. So I still need to make an AFR model, so that you'll make less power as you go further away from peak power AFR. Then make an ignition model which has an ideal ignition number (in milliseconds to 15 ATDC so it generates a fairly sane number across the rpm range) But then has variables to account for different amount of ignition needed when you run richer or leaner, or less engine load. Then from there, I'll make a road load simulator where the car is requiring a varying load as it travels along ups and downs. So the simulation of cruise control is a bit more accurate as in real life the test conditions go out of bounds a lot if the road gradient changes too much across the course of a single test. So obviously this wont be a 100% accurate simulation of my engine or any other engine. But it will react to changes in hopefully a similar way a real engine does, and be capable of being tuned like a real engine does. The eventual idea is that I'll be able to test and troubleshoot my cruise control ignition trim system using this instead of needing to drive the car every time I need to test something. So this virtual motor will have an ideal ignition table which I currently dont even know what it is. But it will be my other devices job to run iterative tests to figure that out. This will be able to whizz through 1000s of iterations much faster than how it can process in real time when you're waiting for fuel samples to generate and conditions to stabilize. Which should help for troubleshooting and bug finding/fixing to no end. So hopefully when I get my car running again it'll be fairly stable. What will also be good is if a G4X ECU is in the budget at some point, I'll be able to drastically cut down the number of calculations etc I'm having my dash do and send back to the ECU. As the math channel feature will allow the majority of things to be done all onboard which is exciting.
  47. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4x wideband

    Yes, even the old G4+ can have Lambda input via CAN. As for how many inputs, there is not really a limitation, although you may run out of channels that you can assign to the inputs. But as a rough guide at present you can assign 8 CAN lambdas, 8 generic CAN analog inputs, 8 CAN digital inputs, 8 CAN EGT inputs, then there are a few random dedicated channels such as steering position and antitheft etc.
  48. 1 point
    Peter Andersson

    Co2 boost control

    The AMS 2000 runs the fastest dragracing vehicles in the world with this strategy ( doubble solenoids and controlling the dome pressure ) IT IS faster.. it just is I have been asking for this for a long time now , the AMS 2000 is a 2500 dollar unit but it sure does its job , I really would like to do the same with my link system
  49. 1 point
    I had time to play with this today. It looks like you can make it work as is. In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data stream method is enabled by default. Realdash is compatible with that. In PC Link set the baud to 57600. In Realdash set the baud the same and set it to "use short datastream". Let me know if it works for you. I tested it on a couple of my test ecu's and it seemed to work.
  50. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    Hall Effect voltage

    Hi lostsoul, Just to clear things up here, in your opening question you state you have a Z32 300 ZX but you also state you are using a G4 GTS/GTR PLUG IN. So I am a bit confused which isn't hard these days. The 12 volt supply is ok. There is no 8V trigger supply on the PNP. Steve is correct the GT 101 has 3 wires , black with red stripe = ignition power Black with white stripe = Trigger 1 Black = sensor ground = ECU pin 30 How have you setup your triggers. TRIGGER SETUP SHOULD BE SET TO MULTI TOOTH MISSING. Trigger 1 setting should be set as HALL EFFECT FILTER 1 TRIGGER EDGE FALLING PULL UP ON MULTI TOOTH POSITION = CRANK TOOTH COUNT = 24 MISSING TEETH = 1 TRIGGER 2 OPTICAL / HALL FILTER = 1 PULL UP = ON TRIGGER EDGE = FALLING SYNC MODE = CAM PULSE 1 Make sure the GT 101 has an air gap of approx. 0.040' or 1 mm. You will need to turn the fuel off or disconnect the injectors so the engine doesn't try to start. I never use the timing loop at the rear of the ignition loom, I always fit a HT plug lead from the coil to number 1 plug for the most accurate timing setup. You need to activate CALIBRATE TRIGGERS, Set the timing to 15 degrees, as this is standard timing, but use any value you wish. Adjust the TRIGGER OFFSET UNTIL YOU MATCH THE TARGET TIMING VALUE. You will then need to hit the F12 Key to bring up RUN TIME VALUES Watch the TRIGGER / LIMITS TAB and check it says TRIGGER 1 YES (GREEN) TRIGGER 2 YES (GREEN) And you have a valid rpm signal. As stated you do not want the the trigger 1 and 2 edges to occur at the same time. Regards Dave.
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