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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    Boost kpa psi or bar

    yes, in pclink, go to option, unit, metric or imperial. The options menu lets you set the units for each type. MGP is Gauge Pressure (relative), so referenced to Barometric Absolute Pressure, MAP is Absolute pressure. Both are selectable as a load axis. HTH, Richard.
  2. 1 point
    Adamw

    Master Fuel question

    You can do either, often easier to change it while it is running - then you can just bump it up or down until it runs best.
  3. 1 point
    cj

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  4. 1 point
    This is the type of thing that would normally be used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/292427582383 You definitely have trigger errors but it is hard to tell if it is due to interference or some other problem. Im not sure how much we can rely on the built-in triggerscope to show good detail of the Nissan 360 slot trigger at high RPM - I think it is possibly a bit beyond its capabilities. I think the trigger voltage dropping away at higher RPM is due to the filter. Trigger 1 filter should be set to 1 for high tooth count wheels - can you confirm you have it set to 1? If not can you do another 5000RPM triggerscope but with trig 1 filter set at 1. Did you try switching on low resolution mode?
  5. 1 point
    Adamw

    ID1000's I'm confused

    Can you point out where? I had a quick look and it seems to match to me...
  6. 1 point
    Adamw

    Master Fuel question

    I would calculate it like this: If your measured lambda was 0.61(9:1AFR). Lets say your target was typical NA target of 0.87. So 0.61/0.87 = 0.70 (i.e need to remove 30%). New master fuel = 20 x 0.70 = 14ms.
  7. 1 point
    Simon

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    Correct if either condition is not met it will switch the output off
  8. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    R32 GTR issues

    Looking at the log file posted for the speed, there seems to be a frequency doubling artifact. This might be caused by a double edge on each transition causing the ECU to randomly see twice the frequency. possible issues could be compromised grounding (old loom with oxidised ground rings maybe?), a low pass RC filter might help. HTH, RIchard.
  9. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    ID1000's I'm confused

    ID has several data sets for the 1000cc units. Use the values for either efi live or hp tuners. The link ecu uses the same axis break points as a GM ecu.
  10. 1 point
    Adamw

    Gear Detection

    No from a functionality perspective, just it might be distracting to the driver to see a flash of zero and the logs wont look as nice. Yep you could do that too but I havent needed to on the cars I have played with. You are not going to hurt it with a few test shifts so try it and see. If it is not cutting for long enough it either wont engage or you will get a big clunk.
  11. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    Yes, our naming convention make this a little more confusing than it was in the G4 the first time you do it. Below is how you would set up a virtual aux that activates when DI1 is on and DI2 is off. The important bit that you probably missed is the bits I have highlighted in pink.
  12. 1 point
    I need this! Please include support for the Black Storm!
  13. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    If you mean the A or B loom then yes , just push the white tag on the side of the connector until it clicks, and then pull the cable out the back with the pin. When you've finished adding or removing wires, push the double white tags on the other side to lock. HTH
  14. 1 point
    JaiKai

    canbus for two lambda modules

    looks like i've managed to solve this myself thankfully. After i sense checked all my connections and double checked the canbus cable short loom that connects to the ecu i discovered that the wiring is all wrong compared to pictures i've seen online. So i picked the cables off and put them in the proper locations and hey presto its working. Just shows you you shouldn't trust ebay and double check the wiring connections when buying cables that are not oem.
  15. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    Yes, also the Storm has 2 connectors, so potentially more wiring.
  16. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    The best resource is the help file in PCLink as its searchable and has table of contents etc. We no longer do PDF versions as they were too big and difficult to use, the last PDF version I have is 3 years old so doesnt have the Monsoon in it.
  17. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4+ monsoon aux and DI

    There are no shared pins on the Monsoon so you can use all 6 Aux outputs and 4 DI's at the same time. Also if you run wasted spark ignition you can assign any spare ignition drives to work as aux outputs if you run short. Be aware the main thing missing from the Monsoon compared to the LEM G3 is the monsoon cant do a stepper motor idle valve, it can do solenoid type only.
  18. 1 point
    Stevieturbo

    Base maps/ ignition timing

    A single screenshot without factoring in everything else within the tune means little. Perhaps even more so as the scalings on the table have also been altered. But you can be sure that if it's busted 2 pistons and was knocking/detonating....maybe choose different friends ? Or at least never let them near your car again.
  19. 1 point
    I suspect that the calibration may need a bit more post start or warmup enrichment fueling.
  20. 1 point
    Adamw

    Really annoying cold start problem.

    Map and log will be the best place to start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  21. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link G3 + Toucan

    Will PM you some info.
  22. 1 point
    JMP

    Toyota 86 CAN

    AGT Engineering has all the data for them, he made his own boxes of tricks for engine conversions: https://www.facebook.com/AGTEngineering/
  23. 1 point
    chw37

    2JZGTE SupraLink starting problems

    Thanks, ill post those up at some point today ECU is still locked as its brand new straight out the box, Triggers do show as locked BUT it allows me to adjust them by clicking on "set base timing" input the number and hit enter. ill be gutted if its still locked and i cant even get the car started to check for leaks etc before it goes to the tuners
  24. 1 point
    race jase

    VE Tuning a rotary

    all the rotary maps i have seen have been tuned in injection time, i just checked all my old haltech files and 90% of engines are tuned in VE except RX 7/8, why im not sure hopfully simon or scott will chime in here.
  25. 0 points
    JaiKai

    Car wont start

    hi all, ive recently completed a new build and can't get the car to start. Its a nissan 300zx with nismo 740cc injectors. I can crank the car but it wont start. One thing i noticed is that the green light on the ecu goes off and i loose connection to the ecu when i crank it. The battery is new, i have plenty of fuel but i'm not sure i get spark if the ecu is resetting each time. Any ideas ?
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