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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Hi All, The developers of RealDash have been working with us to make their app compatible with Link ECU's. It is now compatible. For those that havent seen it you can learn more here: http://www.realdash.net/ In my short play it seems to work well and has lots of cool features. Lap timing, navigation, configurable alarms, live graphs, live streaming of data, music player, etc. The app and a selection of basic "skins" are totally free, then there are some more fuller featured paid for "premium skins" that do more stuff such as data logging and may look cooler these are still relatively cheap ranging about $3-$10. One example below. Right now it wont work on the Atom or Monsoon as the serial stream is not enabled in those ECU's but we hope to enable that setting in the next couple of months. Right now it will work in the Storm, Xtreme, Fury, Thunder, all Plug-ins, Force & Kurofune. It will also work on old G4/Vipec V series ECU's. Connection to your tablet/smartphone is direct using your normal Link USB tuning cable, for phones/tablets that only have a micro USB port you will need a "Micro USB OTG adapter". Instructions for setup and connection attached to bottom of this post. RealDash.pdf
  2. 2 points

    Mixture map defined by log window

    Wondering if it is possible to have the mixture map data filtered by the window selected by the time plot range? As in, if I have a section of log I want to zero in on, and be able to run only that section through the mixture map, similar to how the XY plots work?
  3. 2 points


    Ok, tweaked version attached. You had most of it pretty good. I added the cal for the temp sensors, changed a few settings like VVT frequency and VVT target table was a bit messed up. There seems to be some 1ZZ's with 36-2 crank and some with 36-4 on the crank. The 2NZ mode you have set in your map is for the 36-2 version. If you get erratic RPM when cranking do a triggerscope and we will confirm what yours has. 1zzbasemap Boomslang.pclr
  4. 1 point

    AFR bounce during instant wot

    In the logs the effect of this is called Accel Fuel. You can see it kick in for a couple data points then drop off right when you hit the throttle. There is another thing that might be relevant too and its hard to tell them apart over such a short time frame as depending on the distance between your engine and the lambda sensor it can take a few data points for inputs to affect lambda. Your RPM hits the RPM limit for a brief second, and because of this, you see a 8degree ignition cut which drops your RPM by about 1000rpm. I'm assuming at some point about the same time the water pressure against the impeller starts to slow the engine down too, but it looks like either that drop in MAP+RPM moving you to a lower cell in the fuel table or maybe a fuel cut RPM limit causes the injector pulse to drop from just over 10ms to about 6ms immediately before the lean spike. It then recovers up to about 8ms at stead state high rpm. Maybe you can try reducing the harshness of your RPM limiter to prevent this sudden drop in load+fueling? Have a read of the RPM limit parameters in the help file. In a lot of cases the limit will begin to apply earlier than you would think - eg the various window parameters mean it starts pulling fuel/spark that many RPM before the specified limit.
  5. 1 point

    E85 and cold corrections

    Yup you can now trim your fuel back to 0.86 lambda now. Yup David that cold ignition advance table also had a good effect But mostly that injection timing, I couldn't get my car up that hill in that driveway at the old house until around 40c otherwise haha
  6. 1 point

    E85 and cold corrections

    I tried to adjust the injection timing as suggested but I made a table that has ECT as the Y-axis. When the engine is warm a timing of about 400 works best in the idle range. I have verified this by observing the AFR and transient response. But things seem to be very different when cold. When I dropped the injection timing by 90 deg I noticed a drop of lambda value from 0.86 to 0.77 and the transient response was improved. The PW was constant. I should try the ign cold advance as well. I pre viously had good results with my motorcycle (e85 too) wiith MS2. Here's what I think: When the engine is warm the fuel is injected on the hot intake valve (& port). This vaporizes the fuel just before the intake valve opens. But when the engine is cold, injecting to the closed valve does not help the vaporization, instead the fuel sticks to the valve & port walls. So the best way to get a biggest amount of fuel in to cylinder is to inject on the open intake valve. Smaller value means that fuel is injected later since its "BTDC", right ?
  7. 1 point

    E85 and cold corrections

    Hi, These are my first impressions too, this table here helped clear it up for me. credit to David V for his testing and ideas.
  8. 1 point


    You need to use a map sensor for it to work. Your engine will have a 36-2 sensor which will work perfectly. It's a massive pain to change the trigger wheel on the crank if you wanted to change to a 36-4(timing cover off, timing chain off etc). It's unusual that boomslang configured the loom to use AN Volt inputs rather than the dedicated analogue temperature inputs, hopefully they have wired in the pullup required when using the regular AN Volt inputs for temperature sensors. Adam's file is still setup for a 3bar Link MAP sensor connected to AN Volt 2, I've updated it with the configuration for your AEM 3.5bar sensor. Your next steps are - wire the map sensor to the AN Volt 2 and connect it to the plenum post-throttle body. I use the port on the plenum which used to go to the charcoal cannister VSV. - load the provided file and perform a TPS and MAP sensor calibration. - do a base timing check with a timing light to ensure the ignition offset is correct (your map is set to 140, I find most 1zz's are around 145) - Get the engine running by adjusting the "Master Fuel" number under fuel main if it doesn't fire straight up - Ensure the AFR is in an acceptable range with your wideband (you have a wideband connected to the fury right?) - Use the Cam Angle Test in the VVT Setup menu to confirm the Trigger 2 VVT Offset is set correctly (your map is set to 47.7, the last one I did ended up at 51) - Configure the Trigger 1 and Trigger 2 Arming Threshold tables using data from the Trigger Scope With all that done it will be ready to start tuning and you will have very few further issues. On the 1zz's I've done, I use the "Toyota 1ZZ" Cam Control Mode combined with the "Toyota 2NZ VVTi" trigger mode. I've never used the "Toyota 2NZ-FE" Cam Control Mode your map was configured with. 1zzbasemapBoomslang (3).pclr
  9. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    '92 LS1 timing jumping

    There is a ton of information right at everyones finger tips...…. From the help file
  10. 1 point
    I can add it to the wish list but so far it appears you are the only user that has ever asked for it so it is a long way down... Im not sure I see it being useful for anything else except this specific gearbox.
  11. 1 point

    4g63 boost control.

    Correct, it should have a stock solenoid in that car, usually you would just connect the new solenoid to the wires for the original valve. Wrong. One side goes to a switched +12V source. The other goes to an aux output. There are no aux outputs available on the expansion connector on that ECU, so you should connect it to aux 1/Pin 105.
  12. 1 point
    will borrow a HoloLens from work to see how it looks on that given it's supported
  13. 1 point

    Map sensor wrong readings

    Looks ok to me. idle is about 30kpa, and under throttle it jumps up to about 180kpa (ie 80kpa/11.6psi of boost). It looks like you're struggling to hold boost at this level though as it tapers off over a few seconds, but your MAP and MGP numbers look accurate. I'd guess that what you are seeing is that the metric>imperial conversion for MAP is working correctly, but its not "normal" to see psi in absolute terms. 30kpa is roughly 4psi, but normally you'd expect to see this as -10.5psi MGP or -22inches of mercury. Remember that 0 psi on a boost gauge (MGP) is 14.7psi absolute pressure (MAP)
  14. 1 point

    CAN Setup "Mode"

    Yes, this is mostly for our Plugin ECU's but can also be used if you are using a wire-in ECU in one of those particular models. Theses preconfigured streams are designed to keep all the common OEM functionality working. In Modern cars the ecu will receive data like Cruise control buttons, A/C request, wheel speeds and stuff like that over CAN, and the ECU will transmit data to control or switch on dashboard instruments, fans, power steering, etc.
  15. 1 point

    Problem with TPS in G4+ecu subaru plug&play

    It appears the problem is your E-throttle PID is a little too aggressive, after quick throttle movements your TP overshoots the target and gets a bit of oscillation, this causes the TP/Target error accumulator to count up. It only gets as high as 6 in this log and it needs to get all the way up to 100 before it will trigger limp mode so you are a long way off that in this example but in situations where you have lots of fast throttle movements or are on/off the throttle a lot it will count up much quicker. You may need to get a tuner involved to fix this but there is no harm in having a play yourself if you are keen. Just first save a copy of the current map so you can load it back in if you mess anything up or make it worse. It is easiest to set up a time plot similar to mine below and also have the E-throttle settings on the same page. Hit F8 so that the time plot is running live then try adjusting the P/I/D one at a time while moving the throttle to see which one helps or makes it worse. The idea is you want TP main and sub to follow E-throttle 1 target as close as possible. With PID tuning there is always a compromise between response speed and stability. If settings are too mild the response will suffer, if they are too aggressive you will get instability/oscillation like you see in your log. So it looks like you are close and will only need a small adjustment to tame it down a little.
  16. 1 point

    WRX104 -- AEM IAT

    It looks like it is the same sensor we sell so you can use one of the built-in calibrations. Set up like below.
  17. 1 point

    Ecotrons CAN II - Error info?

    Your map has 3 CAN channels set up, 2 Ecotron and 1 something else? Do you have a termination resistor and the far end of the bus? I notice the Ecotron uses extended ID's while the other uses an 11bit ID, I have never seen both types used together before so I'm not sure if that is acceptable practice or not - Im not sure how nicely they will play together... Can you temporarily turn off channel 1 and see if your Lambdas keep working then?
  18. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    E-Throttle Module

    UnicornGarage, I know what you mean. Im a dealer as well and had no idea that they were re-releasing the ethrottle modules. Its really not new, they used to sell them way back with the G4 stuff. I actually have an old one still sitting on the shelf.
  19. 1 point

    Problem with TPS in G4+ecu subaru plug&play

    subscribed. I had this issue once on my 04 USDM STi. I did both of the ethrottle relearns and so far it has not came back.
  20. 1 point

    Problem with TPS in G4+ecu subaru plug&play

    Can you do a pc log of a short drive, 5 minutes or so will be fine. It sounds like your most likely reason will be there is a small error some where causing one of the error accumulators to count up. These will only cause the system to shut down once they reach 100 so it will only be certain types of driving or actions that cause it. A short log should give us some clues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  21. 1 point

    [UPDATE] PCLink Released

    Where are things at in general with a release of an update? It has been longer than a year.
  22. 1 point
    I actually went from aeromotive fpr to stock when i started pwm'ing my pump.
  23. 1 point

    Windows tablet power from USB?

    I went with a 10" linx 1010 has multiple usb
  24. 1 point

    internal barometric sensor

    Hi Sama, The BAP is enabled from the factory, if you open the Runtime Values Window (F12 key) and look at the 'General' tab you will be able to see the current BAP reading in the left hand column. Here is some info on the accuracy at various temperatures: Scott
  25. 0 points
    Brad Burnett

    WRX104 -- AEM IAT

    If you couldn't find the sensor data you weren't looking very hard. https://aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-2010 Sensor Data.pdf