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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Adamw

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    You are fine. For those that do have problems it is very obvious, ecu will be disabled/locked and engine wont run.
  2. 2 points
    Efiguy

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi All, Ben here from EFI University. Honestly, you really can't go wrong with any of the choices out there. Ben and Andre at HPA do a really great job and we have nothing negative to say, in fact a lot of our customers tell us they've used both and learned things from both. We try really hard to focus on giving our clients a real world "experience" by letting them actually put their hands on the dyno and doing the work. It's obviously a different approach to the learning process than an online experience, and we realize that due to cost and time not everyone can take advantage of this platform so we do offer some online training as well. As we move forward we may offer more of the online stuff based on requests from customers, but it's unlikely we'll ever transition to online only as it just doesn't stack up in real value to the customer the way a true hands-on experience does. I always like to use flight training as an example...you can only play on Microsoft Flight simulator for so long and eventually you HAVE to get into the airplane. No matter what, the experience will be different in real life so while we absolutely agree there is value in online video based training, our focus will always remain on training in a real world environment. I hope that was a helpful introduction and explanation of our core philosophy and if anyone had any questions don't hesitate to call or drop an email! Thanks, Ben Strader, President, EFI University, inc
  3. 1 point
    Adamw

    Base map for subaru sti v7

    There is a V7 base map in PC Link too.
  4. 1 point
    Adamw

    Am I seeing knock here?

    Yeah I think Ducie might be on the right track here, it almost looks like it is hitting a zone in the trim table that already has some trim numbers left in it from a previous knock event. Also check that the "Clear I-trim tables" setting is set to "ECU power-on" too.
  5. 1 point
    Adamw

    ECU Fault Code 74: Analog 5V Supply Error

    Just the +14V (pin A5), and one of the main grounds (A34 or A25)
  6. 1 point
    Yes this would be the best option
  7. 1 point
    You cant remove the connector off the sensor, it has a laser trimmed calibration resistor inside that is unique to the sensor. You could extend the ECU side of the wiring, or something like one of these: http://dtec.net.au/Lambda Extension Cable - LSU4.9.htm https://www.ebay.com/itm/LSU4-9-WBO2-Wideband-Sensor-Extension-Cable-5ft-fiberglass-loom-/262585943294
  8. 1 point
    edzilla

    1991 R32 GTR - No spark, ECU disconnects

    Hi Simon/Adam, I was able to meet Jason (PSI) this past weekend and discussed my issue at an event, and we are thinking the issue could be tied to CAS wiring. Although the car did appear to be "bone stock" from Japan, it's a possibility that the CAS has been changed or wiring modified. I haven't been able to get to the car for the past 2 weeks but I will try this weekend. Power/ground/trig1/trig2 could all be flipped depending on if it's a R32 or R34 CAS. I'm waiting for a picture to be sent so I can see verify which CAS I'm dealing with. I'm hoping it will be as simple as re-pinning some wires at the CAS connector. Going to run a continuity test to see where things are wired as well. speedotech - I'd suggest you verifying this aspect on your setup as well. Thanks, Ed
  9. 1 point
    Adamw

    E throttle cl idle control

    Can you post a new log? I tested the fix using your original map and tried to reproduce all conditions in your log and couldnt get the ecu to add the odd CL step when it exited speed hold or entered hold timer like you originally reported. So it was me that signed it off as fixed. There does appear to be another similar problem that some other users are reporting that might be what you are seeing now. I would like a log to confirm.
  10. 1 point
    Adamw

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    Thanks for reporting, you are right, I dont think it was intended to remove the automatic file naming so I have passed this on to engineering.
  11. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link extreme and Dash 2 connection issue

    No, connect the speed sensor to any digital input 1-8. Assign the DI as LR wheel speed and adjust the calibration number until speed reads correct in PC Link. In the speed sources menu, set both driven and non-driven wheel to LR. You will not need to connect anything else to the dash, the wheel speed will just be sent over the existing CAN bus with all the other ECU data.
  12. 1 point
    The Expansion loom is an optional extra. http://dealers.linkecu.com/XSL_2 It plugs into a small socket on the PCB. On the BMW plug-in the expansion loom will give you 2 extra temperature inputs, 2 extra analog inputs, 2 extra digital inputs, a 5V supply and a sensor ground. The Spartan would connect to one of the volt inputs and the sensor ground.
  13. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link extreme and Dash 2 connection issue

    You might be better to connect the speed sensor to the ecu rather than the dash. From memory the Dash 2 only works with Hall effect speed sensors and I suspect the FD is reluctor. The ECU will accept either type and send speed to the dash over CAN
  14. 1 point
    whittlebeast

    TPS vs. MAP fuel mapping

    Here is a video I did on that subject. Also see and https://youtu.be/MJ1V0A9uKLE
  15. 1 point
    awpturbo

    DIY vipec display

    do I actually got this all going and working. I found the connector from an online, I think from mouser or something and made a cable out of CAT 5. I got the code all going and now I just need to get the wiring in order.
  16. 1 point
    Simon

    Link extreme and Dash 2 connection issue

    Form the side you are attaching the wires to
  17. 1 point
    cj

    Idle gets stuck higher sometimes

    Looking at your log a couple things jump out at me. 1) there is a little bit of variance between your TPS main and TPS sub. not enough to cause the ECU to kill ethrottle control but enough to make low throttle openings a little off - eg at 11:34 there is 0.7% between them - doesnt mean much at 95% but at 7% thats 10% difference between them. try recalibrating your TPS. Your APS is also consistenly about 0.2 different between main and sub, probably doesnt make any difference with this small a number but worth a shot to recalibrate and see if it goes away. 2) you dont have any open loop idle numbers defined when at normal temperature so are leaning on closed loop quite heavily to get the idle right. As you have no doubt noticed you can only get the ethrottle target table to within 0.5 which isnt granular enough most of the time - the open loop table is ideal for (in your case) tweaking it slightly so the base idle number is the 7.2 your engine seems to like rather than 6.5 or 7 like you have to enter in the ethrottle table. 3) At 11:34 its right after you just blipped the throttle 3 or 4 times, which causes the CL trim to jump up by 0.4 every time you do it and its at +2.2% at 11:32 when you stop touching the throttle. (for comparison, your normal 1800 RPM idle has CL trim at +0.7%) Over the next 4 seconds the target TPS is reducing as its supposed to, and if you had left it another 10 seconds it probably would have returned to normal. (see picture below) 4) Lastly, your PID settings for ethrottle control are a tiny bit off which is making your low throttle angle changes a bit jumpy and registering the odd TPS tracking error - eg at 11:33 the target drops from 8.5 to 7.8 over about half a second but the TP angle bascially doesnt change. This might be just an artifact of point 1 above because the TPS sub signal is nearly a point off and i'm not sure if it averages them or just uses main when they are like this. Fix the other points before tweaking this but it might need fixing after all. At 11:34 in that log, your idle is about 2200. You mentioned that you have seen it "worse". In this worse case, was it stuck at the same RPM or was it a bunch higher - specifically was it over 2400 rpm?
  18. 1 point
    Steve

    V6, lambda different bank to bank

    You could loosen up the WG actuator rod a litte bit to fix that tho..
  19. 1 point
    Adamw

    v6 ecotec turbo Base map

    I dont have a map to offer, but if you dont get any further joy from other users on the forum here then you can give me a ring here at link one night and I will log in with team viewer to help you get it running. You will need wifi access near the engine. Im here until 9PM NZ time most weeknights.
  20. 1 point
    For quite a while I've had an issue with an oscillating idle especially during the winter months with a built Subaru application. We first came across it on my V88 ViPec ECU, but could not do too much about it given that I was out of tables on the ECU to bring online certain features such as idle ignition control. Since moving to the G4+, I have been able to activate the Idle Ignition table, which seems to have helped things out especially on warmup from cold, but I'm finding that when up to temperature, the oscillation seems to return, and the ECU appears to be bouncing into parts of the ignition map (i.e. at 2500rpm) that it shouldn't really be doing, given that target idle is more like 1200rpm, which is contributing to the oscillation. As is now, when sitting at traffic lights, other motorists could easily be forgiven for thinking that I was trying to instigate a race, given how it sounds as if I am constantly blipping the throttle. This isn't much of an issue at all while the engine is warming up, but tends to become a lot more prevalent once at operating temps. I have taken a log and map for your perusal. If any of our resident experts knows what I need to be adjusting, I would very much be grateful. Map 1.1.pclr Map 1.1 Idle log - Log 2018-01-20 9;54;42 pm.llg
  21. 1 point
    Thanks Adam, will do. I will set the idle ignition lockout back to the previous value which kept it off. I know the idle is not perfect yet, but compared to where it was before, it's a night and day difference so far. The map was ported over from my Vipec V88 where it was controlling the fans as they should. It seems there are a few settings that get lost in the translation when making the upgrade. I will report back with logs and the updated map soon. Thanks everyone for your contributions so far. I'm extremely grateful!
  22. 1 point
    Adamw

    V88 Knock Control activation problem

    Ok, I found the problem. There is some odd interaction (bug) between knock and DI pull-ups on DI7&8. For me this worked: Turn the pull-ups off on DI 7&8, do a store. Power cycle ECU. Enable Knock. Store. Turn pull-ups back on. Store.
  23. 1 point
    Scott

    Diamond coil triggering

    Hi Hamish, When a Link ECU sends out an ignition pulse it is a +5V pulse. Just about all ignition modules and coils with built in ignition modules use this type of signal. I'm confident the 'Spark Edge' setting should be set to falling for your coils. What dwell values to use is more of a mystery, perhaps someone here has used these coils before and can advise. Scott
  24. 1 point
    Yes the resistor just needs to be fitted in series with each injector.
  25. 1 point
    Simon

    shield ground as sensor ground?

    The Sensor ground and Shield ground are on a common ground. If the shield ground pin is not in use then use you can pick this up as a ground point.
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