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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points

    ECU Unlock fails

    Someone has done a typo by the looks, The last two characters should be b7, not 67.
  2. 2 points
    On my setup I use a 3d table to PWM an engine water pump. After a lot of testing I found using the temp output from the radiator and ECT the best way to control the pump. Takes into account out side temp and vechile speed. Would recommend you try that way to control the thermostat. Ive also connected a 2nd Digital output to the same soild state relay as an override. So if I'm at a set TPS or boost range the pump goes to 100%. After a bit of testing during different conditions I can keep the ECT within 2deg in all situations.
  3. 1 point

    Low voltage at ECU

    If you are measuring that voltage drop across the relay and using the same ground for each measurement then it is not ECU related. There is something up in that relay area.
  4. 1 point
    I assume it's still on stock dizzy? If so put ref timing to 16 degrees, try 119 in trigger offset and see if it'll start. When changing you need to make sure you press enter when doing changes otherwise it wont change. You'll also need a timing light to get the trigger offset perfect but it will start if you keep changing the numbers and its close. Keep trying and go up in 20s until its close then lower numbers each way. That's how I done it and then used timing light to get it perfect after it was close.
  5. 1 point

    Low voltage at ECU

    What is AN Volt 4 function set to? I think from memory it is the narrowband oxy sensor so you will need to change the fault settings to low = 0.0V and high = 5.0V. Your resistance to ground doesnt sound right - how are you measuring this - between which pins/points?
  6. 1 point

    ECU Unlock fails

    Try just the last 6 numbers.
  7. 1 point

    Idle speed Control Gain Tables 

    Adam Dear LINK staff PCLink G4 V5.6.7.3630 English / Japanese Thank you for taking action with the new firmware. I updated to the latest firmware and confirmed that the engine works well. I am sincerely grateful.
  8. 1 point

    Open Loop Mode

    Part of the problem is our exhaust stack is very short in length of the tubes (think P-51 Mustang Rolls Royce).
  9. 1 point
    You can span one axis of the target boost table to a rotary switch, so you can do up to 33 different boosst tagets. If you use a potentiometer you even can get infinity many boost targets.
  10. 1 point
    Yep, the value you want is "% ethanol", but through some quirk of the UI, if you search for either "%" or "ethanol" you wont find it. filter by "alphabetical" and its the very first one. Yours bounces between 78 & 79% in that log. The same sensor provides eth% and fuel temp, all over the same digital input. Just a guess, but the second O2 sensor (or its controller) may not be wired to anvolt8. Its quite possible this was the factory wiring input for a narrowband o2 sensor, and isnt connected to anything at all right now. You could try changing one or both of these to "voltage 0-5v" so they log the raw values received, then drive to the end of the road and back. The voltages you receive should give you some idea if any device is connected to that pin. I'm sure somewhere there is an OEM sensor that has 5 wires on a narrowband sensor, but you are correct that any of the common bosch 4.2 or 4.9 5-wire sensors are wideband.
  11. 1 point
    bit of a caveat - we can only see what is *configured* in the ECU. If something is wired up but the input is configured as disabled, we wont see it in your log or config. The only inputs you have configured are coolant & intake temp, MAP, 4x inputs from pedal and throttle position, and 2x lambda sensors, neither of which gives a useful reading, then wheel speed, brake & clutch switches, AC state, and ethanol % & temp as Digital inputs. I don't think its the case, but you may also be getting some info in via CAN with the pre-defined audiTT can config you have set up. You don't have any multi-fuel setup so even though the ECU knows you have ~80% ethanol, it does not apply any corrections because of this value - if you ever change to non-E85 or get low quality E85, your tune will not compensate for this. The innovate LC1 it looks like you have on ANVolt9 is outputting its the max rich voltage the whole time, so its clearly not working right - maybe dead sensor to match your gauge? The narrwoband sensor you have configured on ANvolt8 is similarly reading a constant, junk value, which is so low it may not even be hooked up (max lean value). This type of sensor is borderline useless anyway even if it works so I wouldnnt bother trying to fix it. The 5 wire o2 sensors typically need an external controller to convert the signals into something the ECU can use, then either CAN or a voltage input to the ECU. follow the wires and see where they connect? Your gauge will have a version of this controller inside it for the second o2 sensor. Similarly, an EGT probe needs a controller and cannot connect directly to the ECU
  12. 1 point
    Those stats are potentially quite old - 2315 starts & 272hours of engine runtime. it may be time to clear them out. In this particular log, inj DC only hits 52% and ECU temp is 37-38 deg which is fine. Your Lambda sensor is not connected in this log so we cant comment much on fuelling or the possible lean condition your tuner talks about. Your injectors however are no where near maxed out, so if you are running out of fuel, and increasing the numbers in your fuel table does not help, you might want to get a fuel pressure sensor installed and check that you aren't losing pressure (ie that your pump can flow enough, filter not blocked, big enough lines, etc). There are no trigger or cam errors, and your dwell looks consistent, so no obvious evidence of timing issues. I have no idea if your ignition angles are "good" for this engine as i'm not familiar with them. They look reasonably normal for a modern 4cyl turbo though. What specifically are you concerned about?
  13. 1 point
    Haven't looked at the map or the log as I'm on my phone but your max. inj. Duty cycle looks a bit high.
  14. 1 point

    AEM Uego setup G4 HC92+

    Yep that would be fine
  15. 1 point
    Correct, stock distributor is fine as a trigger for full sequential & COP.
  16. 1 point
    In PC Link, select ECU settings and then expand auxilliary outputs, click on Aux 5, then double click on function and in the new box that pops up choose Test (On) and then ok . The check engine light should come on. Change back to CEL afterwards, or don't store and it will revert back to CEL on the next power cycle.
  17. 1 point
    Aux 5 should be the CEL, try turning it to test on to see if it works as advertised. It should be on pin D-15 HTH, Richard.
  18. 1 point

    Seadoo Rxp 300

    Vipec is actually G4+ so you could use those maps no? Just a matter of getting all the wiring done and some waterproofing.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point

    BMW S85 V10

    I can give you some very basic info. You will need a Thunder for the two throttles. The throttle motors need to be modified to bypass the CAN bus module, so the ECU connects to the internal motor connections directly. The coils need to be wired in wasted spark pairs. You need to fit a two wire idle valve or build a small circuit to allow the 3 wire valve to be controlled by a single aux output (contact Link tech support for this circuit). Aux output and DI set up for the Vanos is as per the S65B40 set up info in the help file.
  21. 1 point
    It is not possible to decode them all since they are sent as bit fields. The stream below will give you the common errors for Lambda 1 using the CAN DIG inputs (you can view these on the runtimes screen). Set it up with ID 431, extended format. CAN DIG 1 will indicate "AFR1 Ready" CAN DIG 2 will indicate "AFR 1 Heater open Error" CAN DIG 3 will indicate "AFR 1 VM Error" and so on down the list. The LED's on the device give pretty much the same information so Im not sure how useful it is. AEM Errors ID431.lcs
  22. 1 point

    R8 Coil wiring

    Pin 4 is on the left, pin 1 on the right. Pin 4 is the main power ground so needs to be decent sized wire. Pin 2 is signal ground so can be smaller. Ground both to cyl head. Pin 3 is the ign signal from ECU. Pin 1 is +12V, again needs to be decent wire. Dont give these too much dwell, they pull about 16A at 2.5ms, I usually stick around 1.8ms which is about 8A.
  23. 1 point

    programmable logic

    I didn’t have any issues with speed and always had fast updates on my display. The problem with my setup was when I needed to change something on the display I had to put it all apart and plug it into the PC seperately to update the 4D systems screen and then the arduino code seperately and also the screen would drop out and flicker because the wiring was always loose from the plugs. The plex usdm is a commercial solution and I can change the scenes and layouts and customise to my hearts content while sitting in the car via USB on the side of the display.
  24. 1 point

    Sorry to ask. What software?

    Its a G4+ so you will ned the latest PC link which is currently 5.6.6 http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink G4+ EN-JP V5.6.6.3601 Setup.exe
  25. 1 point


    The plugin base map packaged with the PC link download would be a perfect starting point for that.
  26. 1 point

    Sorry to ask. What software?

    We will need to identify the generation of ECU as a first step. As there is different software for the different generations. A photo of the unit with lid off would be the best bet to identify it.
  27. 1 point

    Newbie switch question

    We can deal with either option. If switching to ground then the Di will need the pullup turned on, If switching 12V then pullup will need to be turned off on the Di.
  28. 1 point

    Signal Switch for Solenoid Control?

    The switch could be wired to a Di and then that will activate a AUX out to switch the solenoid. Should work well.
  29. 1 point
    Options -> Connection... -> Connection Mode = Auto On the Preferences tab, you can also set it to enter fullscreen mode automatically, if that's of any help too!
  30. 1 point

    Traditional to Modelled

    Yes with a couple of assumptions. Changing traditional to modelled only affects fuel delivery, so as long as you re-tune fuelling to the same point, all other things will be equal. Eg it doesnt matter how you calculated the amount of fuel to add, X fuel at Y boost pressure is still safe at Z degrees of ignition. Unless you changed mechanical components of the engine/turbo/etc, those tables relate mostly to what is good/safe on your engine, not how much fuel it needs. The bit where you have to at least think about what you are doing though, is that to start with, your fuelling will be off, and so whatever ignition values you had previously used might be potentially dangerous if you are initially running a bit leaner while re-tuning.
  31. 1 point

    injectors wiring Vs Ecu mode

    You could do semi-sequential by wiring the injectors in the correct pairs to 3 drives. Semi-sequential may give a slightly smoother idle compared to multipoint group.
  32. 1 point

    injectors wiring Vs Ecu mode

    Multi point group injection mode.
  33. 1 point

    MINI LINK G4+ Borg Warner Speed sensor

    I drew this circuit for someone the other day. I havent tested it myself with a turbospeed sensor so no guarantees but I have used a similar circuit to divide a wheel speed frequency down. Over here you can buy the 4024 binary counter for about $1.50 from Jaycar so I assume they should be easy to find anywhere.
  34. 1 point

    Hondata Strain Gauge

    Features say, Analog (voltage) output proportional to gear level force. So you need to use a Analog input not a digital input.
  35. 1 point

    SOI question

    Yeah sorry, I done that spreadsheet about 10 years ago and have obviously made a mistake in one of the formulas for end of injection somewhere. I dont really have time or interest in fixing it right now. You will have to get your calculator out...
  36. 1 point

    Higher voltage on Aux 9/10 supply

    Bumping this to provide an update. The car is back together now (after some cylinder head woes). We removed four of the six throttle return springs and re set all the throttle plates. It idles nicely with fully closed throttles at 850RPM with 15 degrees of timing. The e-throttle response is much better. It's still not great, but seems to be acceptable. I did some testing with retarded ignition timing before pulling the springs and I wasn't happy with the resultant exhaust gas temperature. The idle base DC table is set to 3D and uses AP(main) as the secondary axis. This allows tip-in to be smoothed out by feeding in air via the idle motor at low pedal angles.
  37. 1 point
    Attached is the stream 1 file to assign the AEM device to Lambda 1-4. You can re-program the Link CAN lambda to lambda 5 in the "CAN devices" tab of the CAN setup. AEM 4ch stream1 - Lam1-4 ID31.lcs
  38. 1 point

    3SGTE MR2 COP G4+ PnP Tacho

    Thanks gents, so, I sorted it, I was using an expansion loom to provide tacho out which is 5v's. I used the pull up resistor on the board and used another spare on the expansion loom to increase voltage, so there are two wires from the expansion loom driving the tacho, one is assigned as tacho, the other isn't but works perfectly. Not sure if that's right or wrong, but it works and is accurate.
  39. 1 point

    G4+ Mazda RX8 CAN Bus

    Try attached, I have done this for someone previously so only tested some of it. This will give you the 4 wheel speeds, power steer should work as well as speedo, tacho & temp gauge. rx8 with CAN.pclr
  40. 1 point

    G4+ Mazda RX8 CAN Bus

    This guy has a really good process on how to observe and reverse engineer canbus signals http://bobodyne.com/web-docs/robots/MINI/CAN/MINI_CAN.pdf His example use a mini but the process applies to everything. Its basically push the car through some known states eg press gas pedal, speed up, slwo down, turn steering wheel. Graph the output of each stream of data coming across the can bus, then try to map what you did to something you can see happening on the canbus. I've done this myself on a subaru using one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual-Channel-USB-To-CAN-Analyzer-DeviceNET-iCAN-VRMS-CANOpen-J19339-CAN-Analyzer/32359550686.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.TSYAka&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10345_10342_10547_10343_10340_10341_10548_10541_10084_10083_10560_10307_10175_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10539_10537_10312_10536_10059_10313_10314_10534_10533_100031_10103_10073_10102_10557_10142_10107,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=c137e58f-7221-4cd6-8e73-88f833c9f482&algo_expid=3d31339c-5443-452b-a5c7-85399dba71d8-0&algo_pvid=3d31339c-5443-452b-a5c7-85399dba71d8 It looks really daunting to start with as literally nothing has labels, but as soon as you get your head around which devices are which ID's you can start to focus on things that matter - eg tacho signal has to come the ecu, speed has to come from the abs computer (check wiring diagrams but this is usually true) so you have a pretty good idea where to look, graph each block of data, then look for a graph pattern that matches what you did with the vehicle, then work out the scale of it. You may want to start by watching the ID's that are present and the time intervals of them and disconnecting abs/ecu/body control computer/etc to start with as the first step. Remember you dont have to understand all of it, just the signals you are sending from the ecu or receiving via canbus (eg speed)
  41. 1 point

    1JZGTE Triggers

    They are not the same. Both are in the help file but here is the non-vvti:
  42. 1 point
    You only need to connect to one of the cylinder 1 pins (A21 or A22). If you are running 4 coils, each with a built in ignitor then I would expect your ignition setup to be something like this: On the honda the spark edge is normally 'Rising', but if you have removed the factory ignitor and coil then I expect it to now be Falling. If you can not get the engine to start then attach your base-map and a short PCLog of you trying to start the engine. Scott
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman


    Hi everyone, I just want to let everyone know for TECH SUPPORT you can use the following email addresses. Link tech support team email address is available during business hours Monday to Friday and some after hours support from Scott. tech@linkecu.com I also offer tech support, I DO NOT WORK for LINK however offer my assistance 7 days a week including some strange hours when I am awake. I can be emailed at protuning@bigpond.com Please feel free to use these resources as we are here to help. Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
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