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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/25/2020 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Adamw

    Flex/ Temp Sensor in one?

    All flex fuel sensors do that. The signal is a PWM, the Ethanol % is the frequency and the temp is DC or pulse width. You just set the DI to "ethanol sensor" and both Ethanol % and temp will be available in the ECU.
  2. 2 points
    Example of how this could be done on a G4X using Aux 1 as the tacho output, anv 1 as the oil pressure and DI1 as the switch Tacho as gauge.pclx
  3. 2 points
    A little update. This issue has come back where the car will be idle'ing perfectly fine and all of the sudden the car just shuts off. I've noticed a few things as I was watching the computer while the issues occurred. In my most recent occurrence the car would hit ECT of 180, go rich and die out. I initially thought it was something to do with my post start but didnt make complete sense as the car was out of Post Start. Then checked Warm-Up Enrichment. This was my next logical progression as the car might be looking for a little fuel adjustment? so I copied my values from the cells where the car was idle'ing fine but no change to the dying at 180degrees ECT. This didn't make complete sense bc the car was dying rich and copying over cells from the warm-up map would mean it'd be adding fuel. I was poking around in my fan settings and I that I had them set at 180 degrees (which is relatively low but I run a single 10" fan and I give it a little bit of a head start). I adjusted the engine fan activation temp up to 190d and the going-rich and dying out followed the 190d temperatures I set the fans to. What was strange the Link has Fan #1, Fan #2, and Fan #3. While OEM only has Fan #1 and #2 but the car would die even if Fan #3 was trigger by the ECT rising. Did a little poking around, unplugged the fan, and the go rich and dying continued. Back in the PCLink Software (embarrassingly, right in front of my face) my Idle Gain Trim was set to 2ms for the engine fan. The fan activation temp would activate the fan and the Idle Gain would add 2ms of additional fuel, run my mixture rich and it'd kill the engine. I set the idle gain trim to zero and the engine idles like you'd expect.
  4. 1 point
    smason

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    Well I have an update! I've been working almost non stop so I've been very busy. But this will be the finale - I think. I have just been driving with the tachometer which is less twitchy, and no speedometer. Well as legend has it, last night I was driving to work, and the speedometer came to life! I changed nothing. I did nothing. The RC circuit works and it is kind of accurate. The multiplier works but the speedo is just 'out' at higher speeds. No fault of the G4. This is a classic representation of a USDM 240sx and it's troubles.
  5. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link g4+

    If you send it back to Link head office in NZ we can do a "bottom board swap", this is where we switch the adapter board for one that matches your car. It is pretty reasonable cost, from memory <NZD$300. It has to be done in-house as it goes through a production test afterwards to confirm all is working correctly.
  6. 1 point
    JMP

    Link fury wideband issue

    I'll bet that's your problem, tons of EMI from non resistor plugs
  7. 1 point
    nothing wrong with the sound of the exhaust, I'm not hearing any misfires ? And I would not have used the quoted valve clearances...always go a little bigger.
  8. 1 point
    I didnt look at your .xml yet, but attached is one that realdash done for me to try. This is for the pre-configured "Generic Dash 2" (same as Dash2pro) stream sent on ID1000. If this works then you can compare how it is formatted compared to yours. link_ecu_short.xml
  9. 1 point
    Adamw

    GP idle (or idle offset) table

    Try it first and let us know if it doesnt work as is. Typically for a load related idle up you dont want a hold/decay as if the load gets activated again while it is still decaying from the last activation then the offsets accumulate and you end up pushing the idle higher and higher so the closed loop system will get integral wind up trying to pull it back to target. There is a new feature coming out soon (I think it is in the next release) which adds a delay on and delay off timer to digital inputs and aux outputs, so I suspect that will take care of it turning on/off too often.
  10. 1 point
    Once I'll have the ECU (which I'm going to order hopefully today) and I do the calibration, I will come back with the offset values.
  11. 1 point
    Vaughan

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    Just a thought, when sending that aux signal through teh RC circuit through the dash are you sending it through the wires which used to go to the gearbox sensor or through the factory speed input into the ECU wires? In my Stagea the speed wires to the dash run the length of the gearbox and go in to a plug in he engine bay then through the body loom to the dash, a modified version of this signal is then sent from the speedo across the car t the ECU as a speed input for the ECU. This means that there are two speed wires for the dash cluster, one in and one out (+ the signal grounds of course).
  12. 1 point
    neil brown

    G4 Internal Map sensor

    Ask for 4 bar part number mpx4400ap I think
  13. 1 point
    neil brown

    G4 Internal Map sensor

    Basically yes and remember to turn off an5 as cant have 2 map Sensors active
  14. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4 Xtreme CAN bus update

    email tech@linkecu.com and they will give you an RMA form or similar to arrange the mod. Yes, 36-1 or similar missing tooth crank wheel will be a good option and give you all you need for wasted spark and multigroup injection. No need or advantage for a cam sensor in this case. Going crank trigger, getting rid of the distributor and having 3D mapable ignition will transform an old engine like this.
  15. 1 point
    Adamw

    Wheel speed from CAN input

    You dont need to set up any input, you just need to assign which wheel/wheels you want to use for driven and non driven in the speed sources menu. For a FWD road car the best choice for driven is probably "Max Front speed", and for non driven "Average rear speed".
  16. 1 point
    Adamw

    Convert kph to mph

    Are you looking at a pc log or ecu log? Maybe you didn’t log it?
  17. 1 point
    Adamw

    Erratic AFR's cold start / idle

    The response from your lambda sensor is very slow, it takes over 5 seconds for the lambda to reach minimum after the minimum fuel trim is applied. So this oscilation is caused by having the control rate much faster than the system response time. 5 seconds is pretty extreme, usually it is more like 0.5-1.0 second at idle so it may indicate there is a physical set up issue such as the sensor too far down the system or it may be a controller or sensor issue. So firstly drop the CLL rate down to its minimum (1Hz), if there is still oscillation after that then you will have to reduce the gains too.
  18. 1 point
    Aussiemick

    Removing glue from old circuitboard.

    How do I remove the glue from where the circuit board joins the enclosure on a VL ecu.
  19. 1 point
    Adamw

    Sensors & boost control

    The ECU has a MAP sensor on board so boost is already taken care of. IAT is already there. Oil pressure in a GTR is not connected to the ECU, it is just a standalone gauge in the dash. So my suggestions below are not really super important items to have displayed on the dash but they are good to have connected to the ecu so you can set up some safeties and/or log them (of course they are available to display on the dash too): Oil pressure. Fuel Pressure. Lambda. If its doing track work you may want to consider oil temp also. For boost control you will need a 3 port mac valve. Any Link dealer can supply all of this or there are various 3rd party options. For the Lambda I would highly recommend a CAN bus type controller. For the pressure sensors make sure they are a decent reputable brand.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks Working well
  21. 1 point
    bradsm87

    Bluetooth Adapter for Dash - Success

    https://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2 Your plug looks like the Amphenol LTW AU-06BFFA-LL7001 but with a sleeve over the top of the centre according to the pic on your web site. What's the go with the sleeve?
  22. 1 point
    Wow thanks very much. It's simple once you look at it already done but I never would have thought of doing it that way. Cheers!
  23. 1 point
    The afr lean at 4-4.5k rpm is cause misfire, I have add fuel up to 10ve+, it still misfire at that range of rpm
  24. 1 point
    Adamw

    Injector 5 & 6 won’t fire

    It doesnt sound like the ecu is damaged as fried inj drives usually stay on all the time - so you know pretty quickly when the engine fills up with fuel. So possibly a fried wire somewhere. I would start by unplugging the B connector off the ecu and put a multimeter or test light straight onto the inj 5 or 6 pin. You will have to temporarily set the number of cylinders to 4 so that inj 5 & 6 are considered aux outputs and will give you the test setting. So if it is set to off you should see +12V on the pin and if set to "Test (ON)" it should be near 0V. This will at least confirm if the problem is inside the ecu or something else.
  25. 1 point
    Adamw

    Injector 5 & 6 won’t fire

    Might need a bit more info, what ECU, what car, what engine. What changed between them working and not working?
  26. 1 point
    Adamw

    Over run fuel Cut diognostic help

    There is no way to know without being there yourself. The original explanation of the problem was "What I'm getting is immediate loss of power when I put my foot down" so I get the feeling from that it is not just a problem at peak boost but all the way up.
  27. 1 point
    armog

    R33 GTST TPS DROPPING

    It does not happen under hard load, only under very light load when taking off from a stop or a light. I was able to use the factory cable by routing it differently. I can try an s14 cable as its longer and use the other location on the throttle body and see what happens as well as a new tps. I also noticed the throttle cable is different between my friends r34gtt (longer).
  28. 1 point
    We get from these information from factory and they said they would give new ID messages else if this wasnt working. and really thank you for your help and interest probably as soon as possible they reach new ID and information to us and i will send new message and share new infos to you for solution. Best regards
  29. 1 point
    Changed transmit rate to 100Hz (100Hz = every 10ms) Changed VA1 width to 2bits 1353064249_fiatcup.pclr If that doesn't work you might need to get more information on the factory setup, ideally a copy of one of the packets.
  30. 1 point
    post up a copy of your basemap and I'll see if I can set it up how I would expect to be
  31. 1 point
    width has to be 2 as it is a 2bit value, not sure if it needs to be MS First or LS first, what vehicle is this PS system from? what have you got setup in the mode tab?
  32. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4x atomx

    No, closed loop lambda wasnt even working in that log. What Im saying is the ecu was comanding exactly the same amount of fuel before and after the blip, yet the measured mixture changed. So that suggests there is some external influence.
  33. 1 point
    Vaughan

    First Standalone Questions. 1JZGTE

    If you have more than one output set to tacho you will run into problems, turn off that second tacho output
  34. 1 point
    Paschalis

    G4x atomx

    Inll come back tomorrow with a correct log I hope...thanks for your time
  35. 1 point
    Vaughan

    G4x atomx

    Probably just need a log of the exact problem so I can see what the different fuel values are doing, this means I need to see it being lean and then dropping back to good fueling after some acceleration. What I'm looking for is what different values are contributing to the amount of fuel going into the engine and trying to find which one is causing this change between lean and running right. Thanks
  36. 1 point
    Vaughan

    G4x atomx

    Not likely to be anything to do with those two errors, they are more a diagnostics thing than an actual error hence why they have been hidden in the new release. I've just noticed your log actually shows it running rich (not lean, was thinking of the numbers the wrong way round) from startup until warmup and then goes lean once it gets to 80deg C. Do you have a log with the some acceleration in it showing it being lean and then back to regular fueling after the acceleration?
  37. 1 point
    Vaughan

    G4x atomx

    From that log it looks like you might need to add more warm up enrichment along the top row
  38. 1 point
    Vaughan

    G4x atomx

    whole file and a log is preferable please
  39. 1 point
    Adamw

    methanol affect on charge temp table?

    I guess it depends on how much you are injecting, but I wouldnt expect it to have a large impact. The charge temp is just a blend of water temp and air temp, usually at high load/RPM it will be biased more towards air temp and I doubt there will be enough methanol that the water temp will drop so it should remain a fairly realistic approximation of charge temp.
  40. 1 point
    Adamw

    2jz vvti 36-2 link g4 fury trigger setup

    Correct, use the 1JZ VVTi trigger mode, offset is usually around 205 from memory
  41. 1 point
    Adamw

    Wierd start issues

    I dont really see anything wrong in the log. The lambda sensor will not have any influence on it starting. You could try spraying some ethere in the manifold if you suspect a fuel issue. I would put a timing light on it to make sure that looks close still, I have seen the CAS drive come loose in the RB camshafts before as well as they jump teeth when a cam tensioner seizes.
  42. 1 point
    If you grind that long tooth completely off it will make it into a 18-1 trigger pattern which is supported. The engine would have to run wasted spark ignition and batch fire injection without a cam sensor. Ideally you would add a cam sensor which will give you sequential and direct spark capability.
  43. 1 point
    Davidv

    Beams 3SGE + G4+ Xtreme 1983 Toyota Carina

    I've been doing some work on making a crude engine simulator, so if I'm using something else that I want to test that has Canbus I can just hook them up to each other and expect similarish results that my engine would give. So it needs an airflow model. So far I'm just using these simple factors to determine how much airflow the engine could potentially be consuming RPM How much air per cyl at 100% VE How max VE tapers each side of max torque RPM based friction losses Potential horsepower based on mass flow Then I've modelled a throttle body too, which has an exponentially increasing/decreasing flow rate based on angle. So if the angle allows you to flow more air than what the engine is trying to consume, MAP stays at 101kpa and the engine can reach its full throttle VE value. But if the throttle is closed further than this, then it shows the number as dictated by throttle angle but also generates a map sensor value. Which then generates a pumping losses number based on MAP and RPM. So the idea here is that it can simulate the situation where the engine is still able to flow 100% of its potential power even at lower throttle, if the engines airflow demand is low enough. Even if he airflow number is fixed the actual power number changes a little through the RPM sweep due to differing losses. So to add more features I basically add more things which potentially take away from max power if they are non optimal. So I still need to make an AFR model, so that you'll make less power as you go further away from peak power AFR. Then make an ignition model which has an ideal ignition number (in milliseconds to 15 ATDC so it generates a fairly sane number across the rpm range) But then has variables to account for different amount of ignition needed when you run richer or leaner, or less engine load. Then from there, I'll make a road load simulator where the car is requiring a varying load as it travels along ups and downs. So the simulation of cruise control is a bit more accurate as in real life the test conditions go out of bounds a lot if the road gradient changes too much across the course of a single test. So obviously this wont be a 100% accurate simulation of my engine or any other engine. But it will react to changes in hopefully a similar way a real engine does, and be capable of being tuned like a real engine does. The eventual idea is that I'll be able to test and troubleshoot my cruise control ignition trim system using this instead of needing to drive the car every time I need to test something. So this virtual motor will have an ideal ignition table which I currently dont even know what it is. But it will be my other devices job to run iterative tests to figure that out. This will be able to whizz through 1000s of iterations much faster than how it can process in real time when you're waiting for fuel samples to generate and conditions to stabilize. Which should help for troubleshooting and bug finding/fixing to no end. So hopefully when I get my car running again it'll be fairly stable. What will also be good is if a G4X ECU is in the budget at some point, I'll be able to drastically cut down the number of calculations etc I'm having my dash do and send back to the ECU. As the math channel feature will allow the majority of things to be done all onboard which is exciting.
  44. 1 point
    These are the trigger teeth on the outside of the flywheel. So we need to know what pattern these are in - there will likely be a number of evenly spaced teeth then either some missing teeth, long teeth or or extra teeth.
  45. 1 point
    remski2

    Injector Timing

    Here is a starting point. My EJ257 with GSC S2 cams, head work.. and so on...
  46. 1 point
    Adamw

    G4x wideband

    Yes, even the old G4+ can have Lambda input via CAN. As for how many inputs, there is not really a limitation, although you may run out of channels that you can assign to the inputs. But as a rough guide at present you can assign 8 CAN lambdas, 8 generic CAN analog inputs, 8 CAN digital inputs, 8 CAN EGT inputs, then there are a few random dedicated channels such as steering position and antitheft etc.
  47. 1 point
    I had time to play with this today. It looks like you can make it work as is. In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data stream method is enabled by default. Realdash is compatible with that. In PC Link set the baud to 57600. In Realdash set the baud the same and set it to "use short datastream". Let me know if it works for you. I tested it on a couple of my test ecu's and it seemed to work.
  48. 1 point
    Here is something to get you started. You will need to check trigger offset yourself with a timing light. You will need to check my input and output assignments match your wiring (Note I have assigned Tacho and fan under ign outputs). G4+ Atom 4AGE 20V Stock NA startup.pclr
  49. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    Hall Effect voltage

    Hi lostsoul, Just to clear things up here, in your opening question you state you have a Z32 300 ZX but you also state you are using a G4 GTS/GTR PLUG IN. So I am a bit confused which isn't hard these days. The 12 volt supply is ok. There is no 8V trigger supply on the PNP. Steve is correct the GT 101 has 3 wires , black with red stripe = ignition power Black with white stripe = Trigger 1 Black = sensor ground = ECU pin 30 How have you setup your triggers. TRIGGER SETUP SHOULD BE SET TO MULTI TOOTH MISSING. Trigger 1 setting should be set as HALL EFFECT FILTER 1 TRIGGER EDGE FALLING PULL UP ON MULTI TOOTH POSITION = CRANK TOOTH COUNT = 24 MISSING TEETH = 1 TRIGGER 2 OPTICAL / HALL FILTER = 1 PULL UP = ON TRIGGER EDGE = FALLING SYNC MODE = CAM PULSE 1 Make sure the GT 101 has an air gap of approx. 0.040' or 1 mm. You will need to turn the fuel off or disconnect the injectors so the engine doesn't try to start. I never use the timing loop at the rear of the ignition loom, I always fit a HT plug lead from the coil to number 1 plug for the most accurate timing setup. You need to activate CALIBRATE TRIGGERS, Set the timing to 15 degrees, as this is standard timing, but use any value you wish. Adjust the TRIGGER OFFSET UNTIL YOU MATCH THE TARGET TIMING VALUE. You will then need to hit the F12 Key to bring up RUN TIME VALUES Watch the TRIGGER / LIMITS TAB and check it says TRIGGER 1 YES (GREEN) TRIGGER 2 YES (GREEN) And you have a valid rpm signal. As stated you do not want the the trigger 1 and 2 edges to occur at the same time. Regards Dave.
  50. 1 point
    Simon

    Charge Temp Correction tuning.

    Charge temperature is used in the air density estimation in the fuel equation. As there is no sensor right at the intake port and due to air temperature changes between the IAT sensor and port, an estimation is needed of the temperature at the port. When charge temperature is turned on for use in the fuel equation, it is always used. Charge temperature correction is not turned off by putting zeros in the table. A zero in the table means charge temperature will match IAT. A 100% means charge temperature will match ECT. The assumption is that at low air flows, the air temperature is closer to ECT due to being heated by the port and intake runner. At high air speeds, the air temperature is closer to IAT.
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