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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2015 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Adamw

    ross trigger kit rb26

    Iecku, I just thought I would mention a little bit of info that many people miss. These kits appear to use the Honeywell 1GT101 sensor, these sensors are much slower on the rising edge than the falling edge. The datasheet quotes a 15µs rise time Vs 1µs for fall time. So for at least trigger 1 (that controls the timing) it would be more correct to set the trigger edge to falling. Even though 15µs is only like 0.9 deg at 10000RPM, if you can get extra accuracy just by a simple setting change - then you might as well use it...
  2. 6 points
    Hi All, The developers of RealDash have been working with us to make their app compatible with Link ECU's. It is now compatible. For those that havent seen it you can learn more here: http://www.realdash.net/ In my short play it seems to work well and has lots of cool features. Lap timing, navigation, configurable alarms, live graphs, live streaming of data, music player, etc. The app and a selection of basic "skins" are totally free, then there are some more fuller featured paid for "premium skins" that do more stuff such as data logging and may look cooler these are still relatively cheap ranging about $3-$10. One example below. Right now it wont work on the Atom, Monsoon, Kurofune or Black Storm as the serial stream is not enabled in those ECU's but we hope to enable that setting in the next couple of months. Right now it will work in the Blue Storm, Xtreme, Fury, Thunder, all Plug-ins & Force. It will also work on old G4/Vipec V series ECU's. Connection to your tablet/smartphone is direct using your normal Link USB tuning cable, for phones/tablets that only have a micro USB port you will need a "Micro USB OTG adapter". Instructions for setup and connection attached to bottom of this post. RealDash.pdf
  3. 6 points
    Hi, Currently with mixture map you set a threshold so that samples within say 25% of the centre of a cell vertically and horizontally. This pool of results are used to contribute towards an average value in the centre of the closest cell. However this means that you've got 25% variation of rpm and load, contributing to a static value in the centre - and you need to throw away 75% (?) of recorded values. I have another idea that can let you use all of the data instead, and improve the results. For simplicity's sake imagine a 4x4 grid, and our current load and rpm point is 25% of the way towards the lower RPM value and 25% of the way towards the lower Load value. If we interpolate these values, as per what the ECU does. Note: I have just titled the columns and rows with percentages to show what percentage of the each cell we are interpolating from. We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 40) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 22.5 = 32.95 is the table value that interpolation produces. Now lets say that you wanted to add 10% to this value. If we just adjust the closest cell by 10%, as per current Mixture Map strategy. Then our bottom left cell changes to 44 so our table now looks like this: If we do the interpolation again, but with the new value to represent running the car again after the update: We get a value of (25% * 25* 10) + ( 25% * 75% * 30) + (25% * 75% * 20) + (75% * 75 * 44) = 0.625 + 6.075 + 3.75 + 24.75 = 35.2 as the new overall value. Which is only makes 6.8% difference to the interpolated value, rather than the 10% we wanted. On the other hand... If PCLink De-interpolated the 10% that it wants to add. Instead of adding 10% to the one cell, we split the 10% addition across the 4 cells based on the same percentage that the value was interpolated from initially. So: Top left cell: (10 * 1.1 * .25 * .25) = 0.6875 Bottom left cell: (30 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 6.1875 Top Right Cell: (20 * 1.1 * .25 * .75) = 4.125 Bottom Right Cell: (40 * 1.1 * .75 * .75) = 24.75 = 35.75 is the table value that de-interpolation produces. We were trying to add 10% and this new value produced is 10.5%. So that's pretty good! (The 0.5% error comes from rounding to 3 decimal places in my example) So it's accurate to the provided data in every instance. Which is especially relevant when it's applied 1000s of times across all of the cells. You dont need to throw away any of your recorded data, it all contributes to the cell values. Mixture map is pretty good for roughing out a map initially but because of the inaccuracies of the "nearest cell" method I don't really use it that much anymore when trying to dial in a fuel map. You always overshoot or undershoot unless you set your cell tolerances impossibly tight and have millions of samples. And, since this is all only done in PCLINK rather than the ECU, there's not really any worry about the overheads of the extra maths involved. It's worth having it chug away for a few minutes longer if you can get an awesome result on first or second iteration of Mixture map logging. So - that's my Friday night suggestion. Thanks for reading if you got this far, haha.
  4. 6 points
    Hey people, Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well. I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode. With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily. Like so: Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear. Then flicked the first switch, did it again. Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values: Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km: Then from here, collated the results from each run. So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too. It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising) Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat.
  5. 5 points
    Andre@HPA

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi Grant, In case my user name didn't give it away, I'm Andre from HPA We went down the path of online training because it allows us to help more people all around the world, and we firmly believe that it offers significant advantages to in-person training. It's a cost effective option since you don't need to travel, and you also have the advantage of being able to re-watch our courses as many times as you like. This means you can brush up on concepts that you're not clear on, or revisit concepts that you've perhaps forgotten since initially taking the course. The key to our courses though is our support community which is where we bridge the gap between online and in-person training - We believe strongly in supporting our members and this is where our private online forum and our regular weekly webinars help back up the course material. The forum is the perfect place to get fast and reliable answers to your questions, while our weekly webinars are the fastest way to expand your tuning knowledge on a range of engines and platforms, as well as staying up to date with the latest technologies. I couldn't agree more with Ben's comment about the requirement at some point to transition into hands-on experience and that's exactly why we developed our 'remote practice dyno' where you can get real world hands-on experience tuning a real engine on a real engine dyno without leaving your house. The online practice dyno is currently operating a Link G4+ Fury ECU which may be helpful to you given you're on this forum. You can find out more about the online practice dyno here: We understand that buying online education can be tricky and we want our members to be able to purchase with confidence which is why we also offer a 60 day, 100% money back guarantee - If for any reason you feel our courses aren't right for you, we will refund the full purchase price. If you're interested in getting a taste of what HPA is all about then I'd suggest you start by signing up for our free six-part series of lessons. This will give you some insight into how we work and what we can offer: https://www.hpacademy.com/free-tuning-lessons In the perfect world I believe the best solution is to get as much training as possible - Both in person and online. I found that when I was operating my own performance workshop however, that unless the in-person training was local, the cost of training staff in this way was usually prohibitive. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have
  6. 5 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    Hi all, i am still alive

    Hi all, I just wanted to let everyone know I am still alive and slowly getting better after major surgery. Hopefully another couple of weeks and I will be able to get back to one of my very favourite past times, helping out with tech support where ever I can. I honestly miss this aspect of my life and has been a huge part of my life for so many years. I miss all the fantastic crew at LINK and can't wait to get back to business as usual. Take care everyone. Talk soon, Regards Dave.
  7. 4 points
    Adamw

    Logging setup for ECU logging

    Yes, that was one of the first Efi engines I done about 20 years ago when I was a teenager. Motec M48. Couldn’t get many SR20 parts in those days so had to make throttle bodies, camshafts, dry sump system etc from scratch. Datsun 510 rally car.
  8. 4 points
    Guys relax a bit. I've mapped and I'm supporting several 600-800hp 2.0 to 2.3l time attack engines/cars with a Link ECU and multimap strategy. Such an engine runs usually for 5000 race track kilometers until a rebuilt is needed. That's a similar distance to a 24h race. I like to answer your question.: All LINK ECU use the same PC-Software and the same Firmware. The main difference between all LINK G4+ ECU's is only the hardware. your tuner should tune the main Fuel and ign Maps from the lowest to the highest boost levels. There are 3 main Boost Maps in the LINK ECU. You can additionally span one of the axis of the Boost Wastegate or Target table to a driver Rotary Switch. So it's possible to have up to 33 different boost maps, which all can be switched on the fly. On top of that, you can activate 4D fuel and ignition tables on one or several of the boost maps. This allows trimming Ignition and Fuel on some maps if you or your tuner like to do that. The Link Ecu is really flexible. Usually, the only limit what you can do is the creativity of the tuner. As an example, we installed 3 rotary switches in a Time Attack/ Hillclimb car. One 12-Position Rotary Switch is used to choose between 12 different torque maps (mainly altered by boost strategy). The Launch RPM can be chosen over another 12-Position Switch, depending on whether and Track conditions. And lastly, we have a 3-Position Rotary Switch to choose one of 3 Drive by wire Throttle Maps. For engine Safety, we set up Limits for too low and to high Coolant temp, Oil temp, Oil press and Fuel press. We are also using full time closed loop lambda and sending a lot of Data over a custom CAN. As you see, the LINK is a very capable system. But as every ECU, it needs a capable tuner to use it properly.
  9. 4 points
    That and a few other handy features are already on my list of "Things that would make PCLink much nicer to use as a tablet dash". Thanks!
  10. 4 points
    Tim D

    ''Laggy'' software

    At last, my graphics issues are fixed, despite having latest geforce drivers, it was the windows setting for text scaling, it needs to be 100%, not 125%.
  11. 4 points
    paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    sorry for delay, had to sort out a few things and fix some bugs, but all working well with my new sensors need to finish the documenation (ive done about 1/3 so far)
  12. 4 points
    Efiguy

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi All, Ben here from EFI University. Honestly, you really can't go wrong with any of the choices out there. Ben and Andre at HPA do a really great job and we have nothing negative to say, in fact a lot of our customers tell us they've used both and learned things from both. We try really hard to focus on giving our clients a real world "experience" by letting them actually put their hands on the dyno and doing the work. It's obviously a different approach to the learning process than an online experience, and we realize that due to cost and time not everyone can take advantage of this platform so we do offer some online training as well. As we move forward we may offer more of the online stuff based on requests from customers, but it's unlikely we'll ever transition to online only as it just doesn't stack up in real value to the customer the way a true hands-on experience does. I always like to use flight training as an example...you can only play on Microsoft Flight simulator for so long and eventually you HAVE to get into the airplane. No matter what, the experience will be different in real life so while we absolutely agree there is value in online video based training, our focus will always remain on training in a real world environment. I hope that was a helpful introduction and explanation of our core philosophy and if anyone had any questions don't hesitate to call or drop an email! Thanks, Ben Strader, President, EFI University, inc
  13. 4 points
    TechDave

    PCLink 5.6.4.3229 Released

    Hi guys, so I've just put up a new release of PCLink and the firmware. Thanks for your patience with this one You can grab it from here: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way: If you have any questions or issues please post them in this thread.
  14. 4 points
    Scott

    Fuel system type Map to FP sensor

    This is a bug. Currently if you use ANV12 or higher for fuel pressure it does not work. We have an update coming shortly that will fix this issue and some others. Scott.
  15. 3 points
    Hey everyone, I know you've been hanging out for this one. PCLink Version 5.6.6 3564 (DLL rev 3544) 15/08/2018 New Features Right Mouse Click on a time plot to add a marker or section. File Directory tab in Options window lets the user specify a folder to always load from/save to Hinged axis titles in Surface View. Locked Surface view (similar to old surface view behaviour) Chinese language added coming soon Spanish language added also coming soon Changes Some lists have had their default layout changed (alphabetical still works) Minor improvements to the Logging Setup window. Minor improvements to parameter selection. Improved b marker drawing on the time plot. Changed how parameter colours are named (see Parameter Menu and Setting up a Dial Gauges Runtime Values for details). Improved consistency of keyboard shortcut keys across PCLink. Searching CAN Parameters now takes into account transmit/receive filter. Fixes Fixed few bugs with saving log files and holding F8 key. Fixed bug in Aux Output where Diff Fuel Pressure was not triggering correctly. Fixed bug with compare file and cell colours not changing. Fixed bug where PCLink would crash if the computer (laptop) was put to sleep. Fixed Cal tables 1-3 from wrapping around when output table start is set to a -ve number. FP Speed Table now resizes correctly when double clicked. DI14 now displays wheel speed label properly. Imperial units in table axis setup improved. Surface Graph fixed for Nvidia graphics chipsets. G4+ Firmware Version 5.6.6.3557 – 15/08/2018 New Features Added trigger modes for LS2 with moved cam sensor, Rover K series with CAM sync, Nissan VQ35HR and Mitsubishi Colt 4g15. Added Astra CAN mode. Added Single-Point Every TDC Injection Mode to activate all injectors on every TDC for throttle body injection kits. Added CAN stream for Link AIM MXS Strada Dash. Changes Added 3D tables option to Closed Loop Lambda FTrim Limit. Added options to GPOutputs. Added Cruise Control power toggle switch mode. Fixes Remove unused settings from Kurofune and Monsoon. CLL dual channel mode now controls the second bank. AFR average is now averaged correctly. Add 3D Secondary Injection Deadtime table. Fuel Pump FP table now interpolates correctly. Knock Control High RPM lockout has been increased. Gear Status can now be written from CAN input. Fuel pump mode “80Hz 33/66/100 %DC” now reports duty cycle correctly. Cylinders 9-12 now trigger injectors when configured as Semi-Sequential Injection. Solenoid Idle Speed Control now shows status correctly. Stepper Idle Speed Control now stops at the Minimum Clamp. As always, make sure you save your basemap, do the firmware update, load your basemap, then do a compare to check changes. https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ Post any issues you have here, rather than starting new threads, or my favourite, at the bottom of a completely unrelated thread.
  16. 3 points
    Adamw

    X-SERIES AEMNET CAN BUS GAUGE

    this is all you would need to send lambda from a fury internal wideband to the aemnet gauge. this would be channel o2-1 on the gauge.
  17. 3 points
    Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments. My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display). Welcome to exchange SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c
  18. 3 points
    mapper

    Nos control

    I think its much better to have all universal function like virtual aux, timers, 4D, 5D, fual fuel table etc. than a dedicated NOS function. This way you can build your own NOS function excatly how you want it. You just habe to be a bit creative with the universal functions.
  19. 3 points
    Adamw

    CANBUS OIL Temp from AN8

    Hi Mark, I suspect the problem is your oil temp sensor being on a AV input is not actually assigned to the "oil temp" parameter but rather a "GP Temp" parameter that is not sent in the standard generic dash stream. Attached below is a configurable version of the generic dash stream where I have replaced "oil temp" with AN 8 - Oil temp. MarkHellier.lcs For any others that want it I will also attach an un-modified configurable generic dash stream. Configurable Generic Stream.lcs
  20. 3 points
    The continental Ethanol Content Sensors will read significant lower when low flow goes through the sensor. This means during a WOT run the ethanol content will read significantly lower at high load and rpm than at idle, because the flow in the return line is low. I attached a Log to show the problem. With more boost, I see values 20% lower at WOT than at idle. This is a well-known problem and other ECU manufacturers have an Ethanol Clamp function for a good while. The Ethanol content does with activated clamp function only update when the Injector Duty Cycle is below a certain level. Once the INJ Duty Cycle is higher than the threshold the ECU takes the last value read below the threshold and update Ethanol content only when InjDC goes below the threshold. So a quite simple function, but with a big need! Please implement it asap. Thank you.
  21. 3 points
    bsh

    Supra 2JZ-GTE 901 whp

    901 whp / 920 nm Vi-PEC V88 PT 6870 E85 Cheap, small eBay intercooler limit the power output. Should have seen 4-digit number with a proper cooler.
  22. 3 points
    MagicMike

    'Save All' logs

    Would this be at all possible? Instead of having to save each individually?
  23. 3 points
    mapper

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Hi Marc Good to hear back from you. How much does your AFR oscilate? Where is the wideband located? Depending on position, you need to adjust Lambda rate and Gain. You should do some testing. Tune your VE table with CLL off as good to your Target AFR as possible. Adjust your target AFR table to the rich side with one task by the amounts listed in the gain table 0,33 0,66 etc. And log, with a high logging rate, how long the sensor needs to get to a stable reading. Lets say it needs 0.3 seconds. This means your frequency in the lambda rate table may be max. 1/0,3 = 3.333 This test should be done at different loads and rpms to work out best CLL settings. Best place to do that is a load bearing dyno.
  24. 3 points
    pugsparked

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.5.3338b Released

    Hi, to use the Link software as Dash in the next update you could remove the outer frames of the watches and always be in front. This way it could be configured similar to a Motec or other Dashboards The Dial gauge RPM could also be improved with a more "Racing" look I attach an example
  25. 3 points
    mapper

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15% on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation. On small changes fuel film built up is much less. Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant. I have attached a tuned example.
  26. 3 points
    mapper

    Wire schematic

    Hi To speed up wiring and diagnostic I would like to have a function that outputs a list, a schematic, and a picture of the connectors with all labels of all configured (assigned) in- and outputs. On top of that many smart things could be implemented like an auto updated complete wiring schematic in an easy understandable format(e.g MS Visio style). These things can speed up install time and wiring a lot, which sets barrier lower to switch to a standalone ECU. possible examples attached.
  27. 3 points
    Brad Burnett

    Rev limit

    Glad you got it sorted out Idris. But if you would like to get better information from the members of the forum, it would help if you supplied a bit more information with your questions. Different engine combinations sometimes benefit from different settings. And with your rather vague post, there is not much to go on to give you good suggestions. I hope this helps with your further posts on this forum. Have a nice day.
  28. 3 points
    TechDave

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.5.3338 Released

    Good morning everybody, Last night we released a new PCLink and Firmware, I updated this thread but it didn't stick (weird eh?) Thanks for your patience with the 5.6.2 to 5.6.5 update-requiring-ECU unlock bug. Thanks Davidv for his work around. I'll leave these notes attached because they're still quite relevant to this release: As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way:
  29. 3 points
    For anyone else looking to run similar setups with Racepak dashes and a link ecu. Don't purchase the Racepak display dash or logger dash that has the standard 5pin v-net connector and 8pin Deutsche connected on the back. If you purchase the Racepak STREET dash it has a can module already built into the dash that can be programmed to most new ecus and I have tested and confirmed it on my link G4+ extreme.
  30. 3 points
    Adamw

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.5.3338 Released

    Post removed to avoid confusion.
  31. 3 points
    orlando bello

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    windows 10 tablet . B4 and after .thanks for the awesome Link software.
  32. 3 points
    Hyperblade

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts... Hardware: For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time. However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first. Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive. To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect. Setup: Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well. The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across. Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet. Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/ It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing). As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu. Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both). Realworld Performance: You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery). It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.
  33. 3 points
    Simon

    knock detection device

    Finally after far to long we have some recordings off the G4+ KnockBlock These recordings are off our well abused 1UZFE VVT test engine. Engine background noise.m4a Mild Knock with bad tune.m4a Severe Knock with bad tune.m4a
  34. 3 points
  35. 3 points
    Scott

    closed loop lambda failsafe

    Hi warmup, this is certainly a good idea, and is currently on our request list.
  36. 3 points
    Scott

    g4 tablet dash

    You can configure the look of PCLink however you like, but doing it on a tablet could be tricky. One solution would be to design your layout on a laptop/PC, save the layout file (Layout > Save Layout File As..) and then email it to the tablet and then open it in PCLink on the tablet. When it comes to actual design of the layout, you can add new pages by clicking Layout > New Page. You can add a gauge wherever you want one by right clicking in some available space and then selecting the gauge type you want.
  37. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    TECH SUPPORT VIA EMAIL

    Hi everyone, If you wish or need to contact Tech support, LINK TECH SUPPORT is open Monday to Friday during New Zealand business hours. Both Simon and Scott are available and their email address is tech@linkecu.com Scott also works until 9 pm (please correct me if I am wrong Scott) for tech support. I DO NOT work for LINK but also offer my services 7 days a week as well as strange hours when I can't sleep. I can be contacted at protuning@bigpond.com Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
  38. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    TECH SUPPORT VIA EMAIL

    Hi everyone, I just want to let everyone know for TECH SUPPORT you can use the following email addresses. Link tech support team email address is available during business hours Monday to Friday and some after hours support from Scott. tech@linkecu.com I also offer tech support, I DO NOT WORK for LINK however offer my assistance 7 days a week including some strange hours when I am awake. I can be emailed at protuning@bigpond.com Please feel free to use these resources as we are here to help. Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
  39. 3 points
    Davidv

    Knock Setup on G4+ Plug in - EVO 6

    Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up. 1. Wiring Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference. 2. Initial settings Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band. Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees. Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting) 3. Cylinder balancing Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others. So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder. You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34 See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible. You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1. 4. Non knock noise levels Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too. The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine. According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha. So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want) Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle) Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global. Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too. Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock. At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock. Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want: Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine. So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working. From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me) Hopefully it all makes sense though Where are you based / what is the car used for? Keen to hear how you get on.
  40. 2 points
    mapper

    Rotary switch

    I'm using AEM 30-2056 and for Highend Application Motec 9 Position. Doesn't matter much which one you use, it just should give you signals between 0 and 5 Volts. Besides, Adamw / Link ECU that would be a nice Accessory in your product lineup!
  41. 2 points
    ayjayef

    Trigger Errors - troubleshooting?

    Good to hear I'm not the only one ever to be confused with that. Even knowing to imagine another wave in the missing teeth gap makes my brain hurt. I can see it sometimes. That fixed it! Was 245deg and now -119deg offset (after a 4deg timing light adjustment). Trigger scope during idle looks good and NO TRIGGER ERRORS! Starts easy now, timing is steady, idle is good. Now we can actually start tuning. Thanks for your patience and odd hours troubleshooting! Log 2018-11-12 9;11;38 pm-idle.llg Trigger Scope Log 2018-11-12 9;08;33 pm-idle.llg
  42. 2 points
    Adamw

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    You are fine. For those that do have problems it is very obvious, ecu will be disabled/locked and engine wont run.
  43. 2 points
    AbbeyMS

    Link CAN lambda and methanol

    My 2 pence worth , 0.65 on Meths is super rich but the difference between 0.8 and 0.65 lambda is safety the power difference will be very small from what I have found. We we was running a methanol drag car we was running NTK sensors but was only using the lambda's as a reference we looked upon the EGT's to get an better idea on how the car was running. Running CLL on full throttle on the Link is something that I would like to do but we dont have the ability to change the closed loop control from low load to high load like Syvecs. I.e have a much smaller adjustment parameter when on high load parameters and it would be good to have the ability to change the CLL % to a different figure from +(add) to -(minus) again like Syvecs.
  44. 2 points
    Adamw

    Crank trigger tooth count

    I assume we are talking Evo 9 Mivec? If so the mivec cam position is done by a separate sensor to the trigger “sync” so you are free to change the trigger. Note you will need to remove one tooth from the exhaust cam if you are changing to a generic multi tooth or missing tooth crank. Benefits of a higher tooth count is more correct/stable ignition timing during fast transient conditions so if retuned you can often run more timing before the knock limit is reached.
  45. 2 points
    C.A.M.

    SUZUKI K6A No-VVT Trigger Issue

    Hi Adamw-san,Thank you for your advice! I tried the trigger settings of SUZUKI Swift ZC32S. The measurement of engine speed with "G4+ Plugin HC96+" became stable and showing correct value!!! This is something like "Hello (LINK) world!" for me.Thank you, C.A.M.
  46. 2 points
    Niklas Sandstrom

    BMW S65 V8 Trigger Mode

    Its the same trigger pattern. Im running two cars with this engine S65B40 and Link Extreme.
  47. 2 points
    Oh hey! Havent been up to much with the car lately... I moved to the South Island to take a job in the motorsports industry, so funnily enough I actually ended up moving right near that track shown on the post above. It was awesome down there, but some life complications meant I needed to come back. Some interesting stuff has happened between now and the last time I posted though I guess... Firstly I had the windscreen smash which was fun! Then I competed through the time atttack series which was good fun, cut a little bit short by me moving away. But I was determined to make my "Street class" car as streetable as possible... Drove it to-from events and even used the car for camping near the events. At one of the events I had one of the outer injectors in my staged injection setup fail - due to a rusty fuel tank and blocked up fuel filter which obviously let some debris through. So I had to roadside retune the car back to primary injectors only, then set a new fastest lap once the engine was running right. Since then I switched to a Seimens 850cc "shorty" injector, this gives me more clearance to the bonnet which was needed. I made up some MSpaint style stickers for the numbers that I needed for the race series, also at the event furthest from home (about 6-7 hours drive) I ended up having the front universal joint in my driveshaft explode which sucked! Ended up getting towed all of the way home by some friends who unloaded their car off the trailer so I could get home. Which was much appreciated. On the ECU side of things, I've got a few changes to plan coming up. I have just been working through populating the table to run my tacho as a combined tacho and fuel economy meter, using virtual aux conditions to switch between them automatically depending on what the car is doing. So currently I am thinking that when RPM is between 2000 and 4000, rate of acceleration below (something) and speed is above say 60kph the tacho switches over to the fuel economy meter. I dont see a way to achieve this apart from wiring two auxiliary outputs to the same tacho input, and switching between them using virtual aux. But I've got some left over so that's fine. I also want to setup something using CAN, I have been meaning to double check the accuracy of my analog wideband input so I might kill two birds with one stone and buy the link Can wideband module some time soon. I've got a lot of DIs left over so will be looking at setting up wheel speed sensors as well, it will be interesting to see how much my LSD is slipping or locking under different circumstances. It will be interesting to have a play with the traction control system when this is setup, not that a car with this power level particularly needs it. Might come in handy on wet trackdays though! I saw a cool idea where someone was using a K type thermocouple dragging against a brake disc to measure brake temperatures. I've been meaning to get some temperature paint or similar to find out how hot the front gets, as I wear out brake pads quite quickly. So for sake of interest I might do something similar while I'm setting up wheel speed sensors. Or maybe even a K type just sitting against the brake pad, I guess that's really what you're trying to measure and prevent from overheating. It might also be fun to setup 4x EGT or 4x wideband, one for each runner but would look at doing this with a CAN based solution. Apart from that not much else going on, just driving the car and enjoying it. I like having the car NA and fairly simple but realistically for the time attack stuff I've been doing this means my car is mid pack at best. It's heeaapppss of fun though, with some great people and I still wince at the extra engine bay complication of forced induction. As the whole point of this car is to keep things simple. I have been having some thoughts lately about starting a new build using maybe a Suzuki cappucino or a Honda Beat. Just because they are awesome, and I like the gimmick of tiny cars. Both options will most likely be slower than my existing car haha. Maybe a Toyota MR-S or similar would be a more sensible starting point. (Or just go on holidays to Fiji etc instead and enjoy the car I've got!)
  48. 2 points
    Adamw

    Locking Layout

    Use windows explorer, right click on the layout file and set attribute to "Read only" PC Link then cant save the modifications and it will revert back to the unmolested state every time you close/reopen PC Link.
  49. 2 points
    Scott

    Diamond coil triggering

    Hi Hamish, When a Link ECU sends out an ignition pulse it is a +5V pulse. Just about all ignition modules and coils with built in ignition modules use this type of signal. I'm confident the 'Spark Edge' setting should be set to falling for your coils. What dwell values to use is more of a mystery, perhaps someone here has used these coils before and can advise. Scott
  50. 2 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    G4+ Thunder Logging

    Hi Impellerhead, yes unfortunately it is a limitation still. However there MAYBE something extra coming soon to change this. Regards Dave.
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