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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2015 in all areas

  1. 5 points

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi Grant, In case my user name didn't give it away, I'm Andre from HPA We went down the path of online training because it allows us to help more people all around the world, and we firmly believe that it offers significant advantages to in-person training. It's a cost effective option since you don't need to travel, and you also have the advantage of being able to re-watch our courses as many times as you like. This means you can brush up on concepts that you're not clear on, or revisit concepts that you've perhaps forgotten since initially taking the course. The key to our courses though is our support community which is where we bridge the gap between online and in-person training - We believe strongly in supporting our members and this is where our private online forum and our regular weekly webinars help back up the course material. The forum is the perfect place to get fast and reliable answers to your questions, while our weekly webinars are the fastest way to expand your tuning knowledge on a range of engines and platforms, as well as staying up to date with the latest technologies. I couldn't agree more with Ben's comment about the requirement at some point to transition into hands-on experience and that's exactly why we developed our 'remote practice dyno' where you can get real world hands-on experience tuning a real engine on a real engine dyno without leaving your house. The online practice dyno is currently operating a Link G4+ Fury ECU which may be helpful to you given you're on this forum. You can find out more about the online practice dyno here: We understand that buying online education can be tricky and we want our members to be able to purchase with confidence which is why we also offer a 60 day, 100% money back guarantee - If for any reason you feel our courses aren't right for you, we will refund the full purchase price. If you're interested in getting a taste of what HPA is all about then I'd suggest you start by signing up for our free six-part series of lessons. This will give you some insight into how we work and what we can offer: https://www.hpacademy.com/free-tuning-lessons In the perfect world I believe the best solution is to get as much training as possible - Both in person and online. I found that when I was operating my own performance workshop however, that unless the in-person training was local, the cost of training staff in this way was usually prohibitive. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have
  2. 4 points
    Guys relax a bit. I've mapped and I'm supporting several 600-800hp 2.0 to 2.3l time attack engines/cars with a Link ECU and multimap strategy. Such an engine runs usually for 5000 race track kilometers until a rebuilt is needed. That's a similar distance to a 24h race. I like to answer your question.: All LINK ECU use the same PC-Software and the same Firmware. The main difference between all LINK G4+ ECU's is only the hardware. your tuner should tune the main Fuel and ign Maps from the lowest to the highest boost levels. There are 3 main Boost Maps in the LINK ECU. You can additionally span one of the axis of the Boost Wastegate or Target table to a driver Rotary Switch. So it's possible to have up to 33 different boost maps, which all can be switched on the fly. On top of that, you can activate 4D fuel and ignition tables on one or several of the boost maps. This allows trimming Ignition and Fuel on some maps if you or your tuner like to do that. The Link Ecu is really flexible. Usually, the only limit what you can do is the creativity of the tuner. As an example, we installed 3 rotary switches in a Time Attack/ Hillclimb car. One 12-Position Rotary Switch is used to choose between 12 different torque maps (mainly altered by boost strategy). The Launch RPM can be chosen over another 12-Position Switch, depending on whether and Track conditions. And lastly, we have a 3-Position Rotary Switch to choose one of 3 Drive by wire Throttle Maps. For engine Safety, we set up Limits for too low and to high Coolant temp, Oil temp, Oil press and Fuel press. We are also using full time closed loop lambda and sending a lot of Data over a custom CAN. As you see, the LINK is a very capable system. But as every ECU, it needs a capable tuner to use it properly.
  3. 3 points

    CANBUS OIL Temp from AN8

    Hi Mark, I suspect the problem is your oil temp sensor being on a AV input is not actually assigned to the "oil temp" parameter but rather a "GP Temp" parameter that is not sent in the standard generic dash stream. Attached below is a configurable version of the generic dash stream where I have replaced "oil temp" with AN 8 - Oil temp. MarkHellier.lcs For any others that want it I will also attach an un-modified configurable generic dash stream. Configurable Generic Stream.lcs
  4. 3 points

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts... Hardware: For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time. However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first. Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive. To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect. Setup: Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well. The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across. Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet. Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/ It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing). As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu. Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both). Realworld Performance: You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery). It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.
  5. 2 points

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  6. 2 points

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  7. 2 points

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  8. 2 points

    Engine protection question

    Note you can also make your main RPM limit table 3D to add extra parameters. Fuel pressure protection for instance if you use Differential pressure it should be relatively constant under all conditions so you dont need a full 3D table - you could just put it on one axis of the RPM limit table.
  9. 2 points
    Hey, I think this might have been suggested before. But once you start to understand the wall wetting concept, it starts to explain a lot of other concepts which are described seperately in the current software. Example - accel enrichment compensates for changes in wall wetting, but in a fairly crude manner. Cold start cranking enrichment is essentially compensating for fuel film build up over the initial cranking period on a cold engine, and the long time period of "tau" on a cold motor. Fuel cut on decel doesnt really go into this, but if there was awareness of the fuel film depleting during this period then "accel enrichment" would naturally increase again after decel fuel cut. It feels like if this was modelled many of the other enrichment features etc could be done away with or minimised. Here's a great article on it. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/xtau.htm
  10. 2 points

    MX5 Fuel pump always on

    closing this out for the last time! for MX5 NA 1989 1.6 I got a heap of those connectors from Mouser. I rewired fuel pump to be on Aux 5. I wired the purge solenoid back up to Aux 7 and now use the purge solenoid as a cold start air device - small air filter on one opening, other to the inlet manifold, and solenoid activated below 40C. works a treat! also had the separate questions around the AF gauge and where to tap the 12V feed from to only be on when engine is running. Wanted this as when downloading big ECU logs, or fiddling with link, the ECU needs to be on for a while but not engine running, which meant in the old configuration, the AF sensor heater was also on - not good for longevity. Turns out the correct wire is the Blue/Red on the fuel pump relay (yellow re;ay and connector) up above the accelerator. hope this helps someone else in future!
  11. 2 points
    I always tune RB26's with TPS as the main fuel load table. I even use it as the main load on the ignition table with a 4d map for boost correction. I find it makes them much snappier. You are getting fairly low in the injector pulsewidth at idle. It is possible that the dynamics of your particular injectors are not consistent enough at that low of a pulsewidth. You could try to change the 1000 rpm cell at 5.8 psi in your Target AF table to 13.8 or so. If its a low pulsewidth issue this may stabilize it a bit. It seems to be maintaining idle fairly well in the log. Blaine Carmena Carmena Performance
  12. 2 points

    DIY vipec display

    Hi All, I have my car back at home now, out of storage so I'll try and finish this project and document the whole build
  13. 2 points

    DIY vipec display

    Haven't forgotten about this, car still in storage for about another month
  14. 2 points

    G4+ subaru wrx V7-10 plugin is a dud

    Wildwestaussi1 think best is if you just leave this forum. A forum is there to help out each other. Only thing you are doing is blaming products and other tuners. If you are incompetend to install and setup such a highend ECU, just don't touch anything and take the car to one of the LINK ECU Tuners you can find on the website. And before you are calling everyone an idiot; I'm a professional Tuner and worked with LINK ECU's on Subaru's for several years. I came never across such a problem you descripted. As you statet, there was alot going on with this engine/car before you have got your hands on. So go and search there for a fault, but don't blame a great ECU manufacturer!
  15. 2 points

    Toyota 1zz-fe base map

    The Dash Cluster temp meter is fed direct from the ECU, it will always read cold with every aftermarket ECU apart from Kaizen Garage's ZZE/ZZT Adaptronic based plugin which has an additional circuit onboard to convert the signal to one the cluster can accept. The stock ECU outputs it's engine coolant temperature signal for the dash cluster from pin B-17, on the 22 pin ECU plug. PCB pin THWO. You can trace the signal with an oscilloscope using the stock ECU from dead cold to operating temp and then use an audrino or similar to create a module that will convert one of the vipec outputs to a signal the same as stock the cluster can interpret The narrowband sensor is quite useless, please replace it with a wideband setup You will need to tune all the idle base position tables etc from scratch
  16. 2 points

    Honda K20A base map

    Hi Niv, I don't have a base-map. The PCLink help file contains some info for this engine, have a look at: PCLink Help > Engine Specific Information > Honda > Honda K20PCLink Help > Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-throttle > Specific E-Throttle Applications > Honda K20 - 60mm.Scott
  17. 2 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    AEM MAP and IAT Sensor

    Hi, I haven't forgot about this project. I have been very unwell with extreme pain for the last couple of weeks. I am on large doses of very powerful pain medication, so my brain doesn't work correctly while under the influence and it makes me sleep a lot. I have just come back from the doctors again for different medication again, tonight. I have been working on the PCL file for this along with a few other jobs. I needed to know how much boost he wants to run for many reasons, boost cuts, boost control target tables etc, working out what his final fuel pressure will be with static pressure plus full boost pressure etc. Spanning the Y axis on Fuel and Ignition tables and any other tables that will be MAP,MGP etc based AXIS. The more information I can gather the easier it is to set things up. Setting up PCL files for cars that aren't in front of you is quite difficult hence for the many questions. Yes , you are all correct, I DO NOT WORK FOR ViPEC. I enjoy helping others where possible. When I first started I could only ask a random question here or there, I didn't have the luxury of FORUMS or the Internet for help. 99% of what I know I have taught myself through testing , reading and studying etc. It is something you never stop learning. I have been doing this stuff for close to 20 years and there is still so much more to learn, I had many frustrating times trying to sort out issues etc. This is why I try to HELP where possible. I also strongly believe in the product and love it's capabilities. Sure there maybe some things people wish for that aren't possible in earlier versions etc. But for a very fairly priced ECU it sure is loaded with some very impressive features. There are also many ways to control devices under certain operating conditions etc. So by getting involved and helping those out seeking help, I in return learn as well. No one has ever done everything. So having a go at everything that crosses your path will expand your knowledge base 10 fold. So in the process of helping you, at times I am learning also. That is what this FORUM is about, NO BULL$%@T, just cold hard facts and many suggestions to help you all in the long run. Regards Dave.
  18. 1 point

    Link 4 pin plug

    Knocklink.pdf LambdaLink.pdf
  19. 1 point
    You don’t need to change anything, the factory sensor works fine. If you do want to change to a sensor with isolated ground (2 wire) then the easiest option is to connect the 2nd pin to the shield and use that as it’s ground. For the boost solenoid, connect to factory wires.
  20. 1 point

    Possible bug in Thermistor Calc?

    The problem is the ecu uses linear interpolation between the cells in any table, yet a thermistor is highly non linear. Since you have such a big gap between the 24°C and 94°C cal points it will be very noticeable. The reason you see difference between voltage Vs ohms cal is because the voltage divider calculation will inverse the non-linearity affect (I suspect the voltage cal will be closer to reality than the ohms in this case). You typically want no more than 10°C break points for a thermistor cal. Pic at the bottom to show the effect, straight lines are your cal, pink line is more like how the sensor would behave. I would suggest you try the pre-defined Hella 6PT calibration as that looks like it matches your sensor reasonably well.
  21. 1 point
    I know of some people that have done this but it’s not a good option in my opinion. Having two separate ecu’s controlling things with no communication between them and little understanding of how the oem ecu controls things is bringing a lot of risk to the party. For instance if the oem ecu cuts fuel as a limiter but your port injectors are still squirting you are probably going to melt parts quickly. With port/DI combos there are many other scenarios where the timing difference between the two injection events can cause very lean cycles also. Fair enough if it’s a junk yard engine with not much value and you are prepared to learn by breaking things...
  22. 1 point

    Boost control. Under no load

    A base map is there to start the engine to allow it to be tuned. Which it seems did apply here ? Trying to copy other peoples maps in the hope they might do something for you, is dangerous. Have the engine tuned properly by a competent person otherwise you risk damage.
  23. 1 point

    Tuning Considerations

    Yes, the same setting is available in two different places, you only need to adjust one and the other will change at the same time. It depends if you are using open loop or closed loop. If using open loop the base position table tells the idle valve how far open to be, the idle target table has no effect. In open loop mode the idle target table is only used for idle ignition control. In closed loop mode the base position table is the starting position that the idle valve jumps to when idle conditions are first met, then the closed loop control will take over and adjust the valve position further if needed to make the RPM match the idle target. The idea is the base position table can quickly get the idle valve somewhere close to where it needs to be then the closed loop only needs to make small corrections. There are instructions in the help file how to tune idle control. I suggest you start in open loop mode to build a good base position table. Follow this page in help: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Idle Speed Control >Open Loop ISC. Are you seeing this drift when the "set base timing" screen is open (so timing is locked)? What ECU do you have?
  24. 1 point
    Tim D

    Covert llg file to csv?

    Did you mean this...
  25. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    R32 GTR issues

    Looking at the log file posted for the speed, there seems to be a frequency doubling artifact. This might be caused by a double edge on each transition causing the ECU to randomly see twice the frequency. possible issues could be compromised grounding (old loom with oxidised ground rings maybe?), a low pass RC filter might help. HTH, RIchard.
  26. 1 point

    [UPDATE] PCLink (on hold)

    its 6 days past that date any news ? need it also for a new laptop
  27. 1 point

    e-throttle opinions - worth it?

    The Silver xtreme does in fact have E-throttle built-in. Cruise control is not available in the G4, so we can scratch that one off the list. Another function E-throttle is really nice for is anti-lag but that is not relevant in this case. So that leaves two main benefits; The multiple target tables like David mentions. Wet/dry or husband/wife setting etc. The other one David touched on but may not be clear to those who dont know; Many engines will perform better with a smaller max throttle openings at some RPM's. For instance you may find at 3000RPM your engine makes more power with 85% throttle than it does with 100%. With E-throttle you can command a different "WOT" value for different RPM's. On the flip side, compared to a cable throttle, E-throttle uses up 3 more analog inputs, wiring is a little more complicated, and requires a bit more tuning time.
  28. 1 point

    RB26 series 2 coilpacks built in Ignitior

    Nissan twin cam coil packs ground the high current side through the coil pack body (transformer core) to the head. They have a high current 12V supply, ECU trigger reference and a low current ground through the plug. Those injectors should be fine, they should be around 4 ohms?
  29. 1 point
    The ecu is not entering idle control or idle ignition control because the base position table is commanding the valve open too far so the engine settles above the RPM lockout. Change all the settings in red below to match this example. It will likely still not work correctly but hopefully will be getting closer and we may get some more useful data from a log. Do another log for us with these settings.
  30. 1 point

    CAN dash setup

    The Plex dashes have the termination resistor built in so you should be ok there. Correct that the CANPCB cable is not twisted but I have never seen that cause a problem, it is only ~150mm long. Can you attach your .pclr file so I can take a quick look at your settings.
  31. 1 point
    As you self answered 3 & 4 : 1 - Set your engine protection rpm limit to Ignition Cut. 2 - Have you checked the CAN configuration - ECU Controls - CAN Config
  32. 1 point

    IVts software

    problem solved, thanks to Ross from tech support...magician/wizzard
  33. 1 point


    On a Link G4+ ECU no not yet. Luckily the cars we run Thunders in both have Motec dashes with SLM shift lights fitted so we flag a warning before there is a cut from a GP limit. It does need some more work I agree but the guys are moving forward but they need a little kick sometimes to hep them long the way...
  34. 1 point

    Changing from 98 to e85

    hey guys just been tuning plenty vl turbos with the link vl plug in Ecu with great success I am currently in the process of changing fuels to e85 and would like to know how to do this.the car is currently tuned on 98pulp and is making 220rwkw atw and is automatic now would I change my injector deadtimes and retune the whole fuel map or would I add fuel with the fuel main and leave the deadtimes the way they are for e85 any help much appreciated
  35. 1 point

    Base timing

    Posting a map and a log file of the issue will always help diagnose the problem faster.
  36. 1 point

    Trigger errors on startup normal??

    I wired the cam sensor backwards! The give away was that it went negative first!
  37. 1 point

    Engine fan control before start

    i use 1 fan PWM controlled and 1 fan by relay ON/OFF I made a 3D table for the PWM fan RPMS vs ECT But on 0rpm and 500rpm i set 0%, that AUX is set as GP OUTPUT PWM, if i set a % value on the coloms 0Rpm and 500Rpm, then the fan is running while engine is not started. Like Adamw says : when selected Engine fan on a AUX, that fan will only be running when engine is started.
  38. 1 point

    G4 Info Display

    When PCLink first starts up, before you change the connection option, in the top right hand corner, does PCLink display an orange box with "Searching"? If it does not: Go to Options > ConnectionSet "Connection Mode" to "Auto"Press OkGo to File > ExitOpen PCLink manuallyYou should be able to cycle the power to the PC and PCLink will auto connect. Post back here with your result.
  39. 1 point
    The stock tacho on that engine is run from the factory computer not the ignition system. So as long as the Atom is running the tacho you should be fine. There is no need for an inductive clamp. If the tacho doesn't work for some reason, at most you will need to purchase an MSD tach adaptor which will still be run from the Link Atom Aux out.
  40. 1 point

    Plex uSDM interface

    Last edit- changed the ID from '1792' (which is specified for the 300 and 500 series) to '1000' and it's working! Only thing not displaying correctly is the Lambda, I suspect it's a math problem as the value is changing- but I'm sure my car isn't running 6-7AFR
  41. 1 point
    The Aquamist failsafe output (at least the one I have: HFS4 v3) can be set to either go to ground or go high (+5v) on activation. The characteristic is selected by a jumper setting on the Aquamist control module. There are several conditions that activate the failsafe: 1. Low fluid detection 2. Flow sensor output is below lower threshold (i.e. pump failure, nozzle clog, meth line break prior to flow sensor, FAV fails closed) 3. Flow sensor output is above upper threshold (meth line break after flow sensor, FAV fails open) 4. Injection system is deactivated by the switch on the flow gauge If you set the failsafe to go to ground on activation, you could then add a toggle switch onto that wire to short it to ground when you want to trigger the failsafe maps manually. BUT, you'll want your switch to connect ONLY the Link's DI to ground, while at the same time breaking the connection to the Aquamist failsafe output. Shorting the AqM failsafe to ground would be a bad idea. I have my Aquamist failsafe connected to a DI on my Link and I have it set to switch between high and low Boost Solenoid PWM DC tables. I do not use it to switch fuel or timing maps. Rather, I use 4D fuel and ignition tables and have the Aquamist's flow meter output set as one of the axis and RPM as the other. So as the AqM's flow meter output rises (i.e. more meth being injected), the 4D tables remove fuel and add timing. I am still in the process of tuning this but it seems to be working fairly well. But I am running 100% methanol only and don't need to switch between 100 or 50/50 like you want to. You'd need to use fuel and ignition map switching for your purposes. The one issue I am having to work around is that the AFRs tend to get progressively richer as the meth sprays, even when other variables stay constant (RPM/load/meth duty cycle). My assumption is that since I have the nozzles just after the intercooler exit and there's about 2~2.5 feet of intake piping between the nozzles and the throttle body, some amount of the meth will wet the intake piping, but once it is wet, then the majority of it flows into the cylinders. I don't see it as a big problem, however, as the reading I've done on methanol says you can run it richer than gas. If I can get the AFRs to start out around 11.5 and drop into the 10's during the pull I think it'll be good.
  42. 1 point

    Fuel system type Map to FP sensor

    Thanks Scott, saves me any more headaches working that out. Found out today the dead time data supplied by Motec is battery voltage and fuel pressure. I had it setup as differential fuel pressure. Minimum effective pulse width is also too low causing high valves in the fuel table.
  43. 1 point
    Hi David, We have separate center tolerances for QuickTune, but not for Mixture Map. I'll pass the suggestion for this on, along with the one for more filters. Scott.
  44. 1 point
    Micael Johannssen

    Westfield Se

    Hi, just got up and running with my Westfield Se Super Seven. Got great help and support from https://fvk-engineering.com/ with setup and mapping of the Link Atom+. The car is running with Opel/Vauxhall C20XE engine, bike ITB, Audi 4 channel ign module and four coils from a Opel Zafira. Original Vr and and Hall sensors are used. The car is running with TPS and MAP sensor from a Saab 9-5.
  45. 1 point

    Methanol Injection Flow Safety

    Hi Adam, I believe Blaine is talking about a water/methanol injection kit, like the AEM one. I saw a webinar the other day where the AEM controller has a setup like Blaine described. It basically means if you run out of water/meth mix or have a pump or plumbing issue the ECU would be able to reduce boost to protect the engine from detonation.
  46. 1 point

    A few more cruise control options

    Hi David #2 is in there already. But have to admit its not covered in the help. The Set and Resume inputs perform this function. If Cruise is operating and you hit the Set input it will increase the speed. And the resume will decrease the speed. #3 is a current work in progress and should be coming soon.
  47. 1 point
    Dear All Happy New Year every body I finished my map on the traditionnal fuel mode I want swap on Modelled fuel equation map because after i want use gasoline and ethanol fuel. I miss some information for start correctly the set up of modelled fuel equation mode My car set up is : PTE injectors 1000cc, fuel pressure is std, i connect also one Ethanol content sensor to my G4+ Plug In, i have all time information fuel temperature and % of Ethanol I miss this information : Fuel Charge Cooling CoefficientMin Effective Pulse WidthCharge Temp Correction TableCan you help me for set up this parameter ? Also i have one question concerning the Knock control. OEM ecu the knock is connected I want to know if it is same on Link G4+ Pluig In? This function is available? i can use knock control fonction? Best regards ludovic Ethanol Content Sensor
  48. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    Wiring Soild State Relays

    Hi Ducie54, I spoke to Ashley and he said the following, Divide it down by 10, so you could monitor it so at 13.7 volts it would be measured as 1.37 volts. Will request higher voltage 0 - 14 volt or so. Regards Dave.
  49. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    ecu manuals

    Hi Richard, Sorry, Simon is away for the week. He will be able to help you with this request, they will be hiding somewhere, There is still a few little items left to complete the new FORUMS. Regards Dave.
  50. 1 point

    PC Link won't connect to ECU

    So i figured it out finally. I tried Uninstalling PC Link, then Re-Installing it several Times, but it didn't work. What i ended up having to do is, not only Uninstall the PC Link application, but i also had to Uninstall the Drivers, and then Re-Install everything. For some reason, when i turned my Car off while Data Logging, it caused an Error, and wouldn't let me Connect again. Â I hope this Helps anyone else who has this problem.Â
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