Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2015 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Hey people, Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well. I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode. With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily. Like so: Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear. Then flicked the first switch, did it again. Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values: Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km: Then from here, collated the results from each run. So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too. It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising) Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat.
  2. 5 points
    Andre@HPA

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi Grant, In case my user name didn't give it away, I'm Andre from HPA We went down the path of online training because it allows us to help more people all around the world, and we firmly believe that it offers significant advantages to in-person training. It's a cost effective option since you don't need to travel, and you also have the advantage of being able to re-watch our courses as many times as you like. This means you can brush up on concepts that you're not clear on, or revisit concepts that you've perhaps forgotten since initially taking the course. The key to our courses though is our support community which is where we bridge the gap between online and in-person training - We believe strongly in supporting our members and this is where our private online forum and our regular weekly webinars help back up the course material. The forum is the perfect place to get fast and reliable answers to your questions, while our weekly webinars are the fastest way to expand your tuning knowledge on a range of engines and platforms, as well as staying up to date with the latest technologies. I couldn't agree more with Ben's comment about the requirement at some point to transition into hands-on experience and that's exactly why we developed our 'remote practice dyno' where you can get real world hands-on experience tuning a real engine on a real engine dyno without leaving your house. The online practice dyno is currently operating a Link G4+ Fury ECU which may be helpful to you given you're on this forum. You can find out more about the online practice dyno here: We understand that buying online education can be tricky and we want our members to be able to purchase with confidence which is why we also offer a 60 day, 100% money back guarantee - If for any reason you feel our courses aren't right for you, we will refund the full purchase price. If you're interested in getting a taste of what HPA is all about then I'd suggest you start by signing up for our free six-part series of lessons. This will give you some insight into how we work and what we can offer: https://www.hpacademy.com/free-tuning-lessons In the perfect world I believe the best solution is to get as much training as possible - Both in person and online. I found that when I was operating my own performance workshop however, that unless the in-person training was local, the cost of training staff in this way was usually prohibitive. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have
  3. 4 points
    Guys relax a bit. I've mapped and I'm supporting several 600-800hp 2.0 to 2.3l time attack engines/cars with a Link ECU and multimap strategy. Such an engine runs usually for 5000 race track kilometers until a rebuilt is needed. That's a similar distance to a 24h race. I like to answer your question.: All LINK ECU use the same PC-Software and the same Firmware. The main difference between all LINK G4+ ECU's is only the hardware. your tuner should tune the main Fuel and ign Maps from the lowest to the highest boost levels. There are 3 main Boost Maps in the LINK ECU. You can additionally span one of the axis of the Boost Wastegate or Target table to a driver Rotary Switch. So it's possible to have up to 33 different boost maps, which all can be switched on the fly. On top of that, you can activate 4D fuel and ignition tables on one or several of the boost maps. This allows trimming Ignition and Fuel on some maps if you or your tuner like to do that. The Link Ecu is really flexible. Usually, the only limit what you can do is the creativity of the tuner. As an example, we installed 3 rotary switches in a Time Attack/ Hillclimb car. One 12-Position Rotary Switch is used to choose between 12 different torque maps (mainly altered by boost strategy). The Launch RPM can be chosen over another 12-Position Switch, depending on whether and Track conditions. And lastly, we have a 3-Position Rotary Switch to choose one of 3 Drive by wire Throttle Maps. For engine Safety, we set up Limits for too low and to high Coolant temp, Oil temp, Oil press and Fuel press. We are also using full time closed loop lambda and sending a lot of Data over a custom CAN. As you see, the LINK is a very capable system. But as every ECU, it needs a capable tuner to use it properly.
  4. 3 points
    Adamw

    CANBUS OIL Temp from AN8

    Hi Mark, I suspect the problem is your oil temp sensor being on a AV input is not actually assigned to the "oil temp" parameter but rather a "GP Temp" parameter that is not sent in the standard generic dash stream. Attached below is a configurable version of the generic dash stream where I have replaced "oil temp" with AN 8 - Oil temp. MarkHellier.lcs For any others that want it I will also attach an un-modified configurable generic dash stream. Configurable Generic Stream.lcs
  5. 3 points
    Hyperblade

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts... Hardware: For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time. However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first. Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive. To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect. Setup: Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well. The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across. Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet. Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/ It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing). As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu. Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both). Realworld Performance: You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery). It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.
  6. 2 points
    Ducie54

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Another look show it's reducing boost target in higher gears but gear detection is not set up correctly. Your vechile speed is showing when in 0 gear.
  7. 2 points
    Stevieturbo

    water meth injection

    You will never see 300psi, nor will 2x1000cc nozzles be as efficient as smaller nozzles. Well other than when the pump is pumping against the closed valve and if the pump has been adjusted to see a higher pressure. In fact, with nozzles that large I'd be surprised if you ever see much over 100psi. The pumps simply do not flow what the suppliers claim, and any pressure claims are against a dead head. I've tested the AEM big pump under load and in the real world at pressures required....realistically they're only around a 1200-1300cc pump, and that was with a quoted 1600cc worth of nozzle...and tested not fighting against boost pressure which would reduce flow further. Even with only a 600cc nozzle...my factory set 200psi pump, could never create 200psi. With 1600cc worth of nozzle, in the car, in real world use max pressure I see is around 140psi....so if using say 40psi boost, that's now only 100psi of effective pressure to inject, so even less flow. But stick a pressure sensor on the line and log it for yourself and use this to control any fuel/spark adjustments, rather than what you're currently doing which offers no failsafe. It's a cheap and easy way to monitor what the system is doing, and could be an eye opener. It's a pity nobody seems to have done much testing on the various systems and pumps out there to prove or disprove the suppliers claims.
  8. 2 points
    cj

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  9. 2 points
    Adamw

    Engine protection question

    Note you can also make your main RPM limit table 3D to add extra parameters. Fuel pressure protection for instance if you use Differential pressure it should be relatively constant under all conditions so you dont need a full 3D table - you could just put it on one axis of the RPM limit table.
  10. 2 points
    Hey, I think this might have been suggested before. But once you start to understand the wall wetting concept, it starts to explain a lot of other concepts which are described seperately in the current software. Example - accel enrichment compensates for changes in wall wetting, but in a fairly crude manner. Cold start cranking enrichment is essentially compensating for fuel film build up over the initial cranking period on a cold engine, and the long time period of "tau" on a cold motor. Fuel cut on decel doesnt really go into this, but if there was awareness of the fuel film depleting during this period then "accel enrichment" would naturally increase again after decel fuel cut. It feels like if this was modelled many of the other enrichment features etc could be done away with or minimised. Here's a great article on it. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/xtau.htm
  11. 2 points
    MarcD

    MX5 Fuel pump always on

    closing this out for the last time! for MX5 NA 1989 1.6 I got a heap of those connectors from Mouser. I rewired fuel pump to be on Aux 5. I wired the purge solenoid back up to Aux 7 and now use the purge solenoid as a cold start air device - small air filter on one opening, other to the inlet manifold, and solenoid activated below 40C. works a treat! also had the separate questions around the AF gauge and where to tap the 12V feed from to only be on when engine is running. Wanted this as when downloading big ECU logs, or fiddling with link, the ECU needs to be on for a while but not engine running, which meant in the old configuration, the AF sensor heater was also on - not good for longevity. Turns out the correct wire is the Blue/Red on the fuel pump relay (yellow re;ay and connector) up above the accelerator. hope this helps someone else in future!
  12. 2 points
    I always tune RB26's with TPS as the main fuel load table. I even use it as the main load on the ignition table with a 4d map for boost correction. I find it makes them much snappier. You are getting fairly low in the injector pulsewidth at idle. It is possible that the dynamics of your particular injectors are not consistent enough at that low of a pulsewidth. You could try to change the 1000 rpm cell at 5.8 psi in your Target AF table to 13.8 or so. If its a low pulsewidth issue this may stabilize it a bit. It seems to be maintaining idle fairly well in the log. Blaine Carmena Carmena Performance
  13. 2 points
    paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    Hi All, I have my car back at home now, out of storage so I'll try and finish this project and document the whole build
  14. 2 points
    paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    Haven't forgotten about this, car still in storage for about another month
  15. 2 points
    mapper

    G4+ subaru wrx V7-10 plugin is a dud

    Wildwestaussi1 think best is if you just leave this forum. A forum is there to help out each other. Only thing you are doing is blaming products and other tuners. If you are incompetend to install and setup such a highend ECU, just don't touch anything and take the car to one of the LINK ECU Tuners you can find on the website. And before you are calling everyone an idiot; I'm a professional Tuner and worked with LINK ECU's on Subaru's for several years. I came never across such a problem you descripted. As you statet, there was alot going on with this engine/car before you have got your hands on. So go and search there for a fault, but don't blame a great ECU manufacturer!
  16. 2 points
    JMP

    Toyota 1zz-fe base map

    The Dash Cluster temp meter is fed direct from the ECU, it will always read cold with every aftermarket ECU apart from Kaizen Garage's ZZE/ZZT Adaptronic based plugin which has an additional circuit onboard to convert the signal to one the cluster can accept. The stock ECU outputs it's engine coolant temperature signal for the dash cluster from pin B-17, on the 22 pin ECU plug. PCB pin THWO. You can trace the signal with an oscilloscope using the stock ECU from dead cold to operating temp and then use an audrino or similar to create a module that will convert one of the vipec outputs to a signal the same as stock the cluster can interpret The narrowband sensor is quite useless, please replace it with a wideband setup You will need to tune all the idle base position tables etc from scratch
  17. 2 points
    Scott

    Honda K20A base map

    Hi Niv, I don't have a base-map. The PCLink help file contains some info for this engine, have a look at: PCLink Help > Engine Specific Information > Honda > Honda K20PCLink Help > Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-throttle > Specific E-Throttle Applications > Honda K20 - 60mm.Scott
  18. 2 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    AEM MAP and IAT Sensor

    Hi, I haven't forgot about this project. I have been very unwell with extreme pain for the last couple of weeks. I am on large doses of very powerful pain medication, so my brain doesn't work correctly while under the influence and it makes me sleep a lot. I have just come back from the doctors again for different medication again, tonight. I have been working on the PCL file for this along with a few other jobs. I needed to know how much boost he wants to run for many reasons, boost cuts, boost control target tables etc, working out what his final fuel pressure will be with static pressure plus full boost pressure etc. Spanning the Y axis on Fuel and Ignition tables and any other tables that will be MAP,MGP etc based AXIS. The more information I can gather the easier it is to set things up. Setting up PCL files for cars that aren't in front of you is quite difficult hence for the many questions. Yes , you are all correct, I DO NOT WORK FOR ViPEC. I enjoy helping others where possible. When I first started I could only ask a random question here or there, I didn't have the luxury of FORUMS or the Internet for help. 99% of what I know I have taught myself through testing , reading and studying etc. It is something you never stop learning. I have been doing this stuff for close to 20 years and there is still so much more to learn, I had many frustrating times trying to sort out issues etc. This is why I try to HELP where possible. I also strongly believe in the product and love it's capabilities. Sure there maybe some things people wish for that aren't possible in earlier versions etc. But for a very fairly priced ECU it sure is loaded with some very impressive features. There are also many ways to control devices under certain operating conditions etc. So by getting involved and helping those out seeking help, I in return learn as well. No one has ever done everything. So having a go at everything that crosses your path will expand your knowledge base 10 fold. So in the process of helping you, at times I am learning also. That is what this FORUM is about, NO BULL$%@T, just cold hard facts and many suggestions to help you all in the long run. Regards Dave.
  19. 1 point
    Adamw

    Cam Position Parameter Lag

    I think the problem probably is you due to not using a compatible trigger & VVT mode. Your Inlet LH error counter is continuously counting up and the Inlet LH signal is reporting extra pulses. Try setting trigger mode to M52 VVT and VVT mode to M52, this should work with the single tooth cam and 60-2 crank. Trigger offset and VVT offset may need to be set again with this change. If that doesnt help please post another log and the tune file. I suspect something is also mechanically wrong if this is the case, in my experience the 2 state vanos is usually near instant switching (less than 50ms at a guess), you dont normally need to consider cam position at all, usually just switch VE tables at the same time the vanos is activated.
  20. 1 point
    Hi all, Bit of an odd one, just wanted to ask how best to limit the torque output via the engine mapping, the basis of this question is owing to the torque limit on my transmission - basically looking to limit peak torque in certain scenarios. I will be getting my forged engine fully mapped on a rolling road but just wanted to ask the question now. Basically my forged engine will have the capacity to have a higher torque output than my upgraded gearbox is rated to, I know that my gearbox can cope with slightly more than its rated torque but am looking at how to limit peak torque when needed - a bit like an engine rev limiter. I am guessing I should be able to limit the torque by pulling timing out in certain cells at certain boost levels using a 3D table? Eg: 7 psi - no adjustment 14 psi - no adjustment 21 psi - some adjustment 28 psi - more adjustment For my build, here are my limits (to give everyone an idea): 1.8 Litre engine Forged rods and pistons (9.5:1 compression) Supertech valvetrain rated to 8,500rpm CSS strengthened block able to cope with around 600bhp Stock gearbox with upgraded 3rd and 4th gears - rated to 295ft/lbs although have chatted to someone who ran 365 ft/lbs through them Now, a stock engine with a low boost turbo (7psi) makes around 220 bhp and 185 ft/lb torque, and probably around 250bhp and 200ft/lbs at 12 psi, have seen figures for a forged engine making around 420bhp and the 365 ft/lbs at 35 psi on a GT3071 turbo, I am looking at an EFR 6758 for my build which should flow well at lower boost but not run out of legs at the top end. Is anyone able to guesstimate the sort of torque I should be expecting? I think I should be ok with a bar of boost in terms of torque but anything more I think I might need to run a limit of some sort to keep it around the 300ft/lb mark - basically looking to make the most power I can (as the rest of the engine can make it). I have also seen these engine make around 500bhp at 7,500 rpm and 28psi on a 6262 but the peak torque is probably at around 460 ft/lbs - tad much! Plan for my build is an 11 second 1/4 mile car but daily driven - plan to run full power at the drag strip then drop boost pressure to a lot lower for the road - basically looking to make sure that the gearbox holds ok for the couple of drag runs to prove it can run the time but then turn it down at all other times. Sorry - was a bit of a long post but was just wondering what everyone suggests.
  21. 1 point
    KarlB

    Higher voltage on Aux 9/10 supply

    Bumping this to provide an update. The car is back together now (after some cylinder head woes). We removed four of the six throttle return springs and re set all the throttle plates. It idles nicely with fully closed throttles at 850RPM with 15 degrees of timing. The e-throttle response is much better. It's still not great, but seems to be acceptable. I did some testing with retarded ignition timing before pulling the springs and I wasn't happy with the resultant exhaust gas temperature. The idle base DC table is set to 3D and uses AP(main) as the secondary axis. This allows tip-in to be smoothed out by feeding in air via the idle motor at low pedal angles.
  22. 1 point
    Rob W

    What is wrong with my tune?

    Hope you get it sorted ok mate you shouldn't have too much trouble finding someone in Melbourne
  23. 1 point
    ClintBHP

    ARF Choice

    No Brianer, the Link CAN Lambda as we have the ability to see the controller status of the sensor, plus the ECU can extend the life of the sensor by many fold due to starting and stopping the heater at the correct times.
  24. 1 point
    The MAP sensor is only indicating pressure on one side of the butterfly though - My thinking is since these have a crankshaft driven supercharger and RPM is still high, even with the dump valve open there is likely a large pressure difference inside vs outside the butterfly. I have seen a similar but opposite effect when trying to open the throttle. Some BMW's have butterfly shaft slightly offset from center, so on those if you let them close too much when returning to idle they are sucked shut so hard you cant even move it with a screwdriver or similar.
  25. 1 point
    cj

    Ecu hold power

    Thats not really the idea behind hold power. Its supposed to be so you can reset idle solenoids and the like back to zero position. Trying to use it to avoid something like this runs a big risk that if you crank it for too long, the hold power timer expires, and the ECU turns off while its still cranking and you probably wouldnt even notice. Better bet would be to re-wire your key output in this case so that the main relay is triggered by IGN1 key pos *and* by start key pos (ie run a wire from the key start position output to the main relay trigger). Are you sure your ignition circuit drops out entirely when key is at start pos? Ive heard of accessory power dropping out, and in some cases there are 2 IGN feeds off the key and 1 will drop out (for heater, aircon, wipers etc), but in most cases where people think they have this behaviour its actually just voltage drop due to the load being drawn by the starter.
  26. 1 point
    Adamw

    Tuning Considerations

    Yes, the same setting is available in two different places, you only need to adjust one and the other will change at the same time. It depends if you are using open loop or closed loop. If using open loop the base position table tells the idle valve how far open to be, the idle target table has no effect. In open loop mode the idle target table is only used for idle ignition control. In closed loop mode the base position table is the starting position that the idle valve jumps to when idle conditions are first met, then the closed loop control will take over and adjust the valve position further if needed to make the RPM match the idle target. The idea is the base position table can quickly get the idle valve somewhere close to where it needs to be then the closed loop only needs to make small corrections. There are instructions in the help file how to tune idle control. I suggest you start in open loop mode to build a good base position table. Follow this page in help: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Idle Speed Control >Open Loop ISC. Are you seeing this drift when the "set base timing" screen is open (so timing is locked)? What ECU do you have?
  27. 1 point
    No, you want to log the parameter "Lambda 1". Just fix your cal table.
  28. 1 point
    Adamw

    Knock control and corrections

    HP Academy have a decent webinar on the subject. A USD$20 membership will give you access to their webinar library. https://www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/049-setting-up-knock-control-link-g4-vipec/
  29. 1 point
    Davidv

    Idle setting for open loop and closed lopp

    ISCV is too slow to really be useful for quick changes in closed loop, you really need to get your fuel dialled in nicely and then ignition trim is the best way to keep it stable in my opinion.
  30. 1 point
    Yes this would be the best option
  31. 1 point
    AlexSavv

    Brand New G4+ Monsoon For Sale

    Hey everyone, I think I'll go for an RX7 Plug and Play unit instead, therefore my brand new Monsoon is for sale, complete with plug, pins and unlock code from Brands Hatch Performance (not applied yet!) Literally hasn't been touched, and I'll take a loss on it. £800 posted for anyone who knows of a someone who needs one! Thank you Alex
  32. 1 point
    Kitto

    RB26 series 2 coilpacks built in Ignitior

    Nissan twin cam coil packs ground the high current side through the coil pack body (transformer core) to the head. They have a high current 12V supply, ECU trigger reference and a low current ground through the plug. Those injectors should be fine, they should be around 4 ohms?
  33. 1 point
    Adamw

    AEM EPM trigger G4+ PNP Coil on plug

    Your screen shot above on the Feb 1 post shows you have trig 1 set to reluctor, the AEM EPM is hall as far as I know. So set both trig 1 and 2 to optical/hall, turn on the pullup resistor. Make sure trig 2 sync mode is set to cam pulse 1X. If you still get no RPM then post a triggerscope.
  34. 1 point
    Adamw

    CAN dash setup

    The Plex dashes have the termination resistor built in so you should be ok there. Correct that the CANPCB cable is not twisted but I have never seen that cause a problem, it is only ~150mm long. Can you attach your .pclr file so I can take a quick look at your settings.
  35. 1 point
    AbbeyMS

    GP RPM LIMIT

    On a Link G4+ ECU no not yet. Luckily the cars we run Thunders in both have Motec dashes with SLM shift lights fitted so we flag a warning before there is a cut from a GP limit. It does need some more work I agree but the guys are moving forward but they need a little kick sometimes to hep them long the way...
  36. 1 point
    Adamw

    Car shut down

    Your triggerscopes look like they would work ok with your current settings but I would probably make a small change to the trigger 2 arming threshold table just to give us a little more margin of error. Try it like this: I suggest for the next little while that you carry your laptop around with you, then if it ever doesnt start again you can connect laptop and do a quick triggerscope which may show us what the problem is.
  37. 1 point
    SacramentoTech

    No spark on 350Z ECU in G35

    and apparently, if you have upstream wideband sensors, you will need to disable them. I will post up a revised file when I complete mine
  38. 1 point
    gojira

    Engine fan control before start

    i use 1 fan PWM controlled and 1 fan by relay ON/OFF I made a 3D table for the PWM fan RPMS vs ECT But on 0rpm and 500rpm i set 0%, that AUX is set as GP OUTPUT PWM, if i set a % value on the coloms 0Rpm and 500Rpm, then the fan is running while engine is not started. Like Adamw says : when selected Engine fan on a AUX, that fan will only be running when engine is started.
  39. 1 point
    Hi all, a very big hurdle as far as the use of the very much preferred NTK sensor is simply the availability of the information as far as the software and the code to write the software to the NTK control chip. This information is simply not available to who ever asks for it making it virtually impossible to write to the hardware chip that the NTK sensor is controlled with. I have used lots of different brands of wideband meters for many many years and have had my share of sensor failures, mine are more so just plain worn out, use of leaded fuels such as avgas, Excessively rich mixtures on a hot sensor that destroys them as they get cold shock when very hot. Dropping them, melted wires, and the biggest one the unknown, loan it out , used to work, get it back doesn't work anymore. Letting the battery run flat with the sensor hooked up. Lots of things will destroy these sensors and or shorten there life span, incorrect angle in exhaust allowing H2O to come into contact with the heated element causing failure. As we all know H2O is a by product of the combustion process and can not be eliminated. So unless you have millions of dollars to get the chips coded and a full reconfiguration of the main ECU or another CAN MODULE i doubt we will see much happen here. The best advice i can offer is to avoid the above mentioned sensor killers. Calibrate your meter regulary, avoid over rich mixtures. Poor tuning of engines that cruise at 11:1 instead of stoich or a little leaner if possible will save the sensor life also. Also in this day and age, is that really a genuine, LSU 4.2 or LSU 4.9 sensor. The other issue is if the sensor is connected to a controller then an analogue output voltage from the module to the ECU is not of high standard, the sensor may be fine and the meter is the culprit. And this is where we come full circle back to the Innovate LM-1 with no analogue volt output earth/sensor ground. Earth looping. This issue was big enough for Innovate many many years ago to design and build a GIA, GROUND ISOLATION AMPLIFIER to stop ground loop feed back effecting readings. There are wideband meters on the market running NTK sensors, with the intellect (i definatly don't have it) and the ability to buy the chips,maybe the code could be reverse engineered to get the base code to program the chip, who knows. Anyway just my long 2 cents worth. Regards Dave. P.S BY THE WAY DAMIEN KING THIS IS YOURS HA HA HA HA, SHOULD BE THERE SOON.
  40. 1 point
    Adamw

    Staged Injection Deadtime Table

    Hi David, Can you elaborate more on this statement. I just tried myself on the test bench and fuel cut on the secondaries seems to work as expected.
  41. 1 point
    Scott

    Calculated airflow as ignition axis

    Hi Dan, I've referred this on to the engineers, here is what they had to say: The "Air per cylinder measured" parameter is a value only from a MAF input. The "Air per cylinder Estimated" parameter is calculated from the MAP sensor. The engineers are happy to add "Air per cylinder Estimated" to the table axis options and will put it on the list. Scott
  42. 1 point
    Simon

    ICV - Idle problems - Subaru STI V7

    Next step is to check the power and ground supplies to the solenoid. You can also check the output of the ECU with a test light. If you put the ISC output to test on the light should turn on.
  43. 1 point
    paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    this is where im upto with the current display. some minor changes, now includes oil temp, oil pressure and exhaust temp. also included knock display status from the vipec and global knock triggered times # which reflects # of times vipec has trigger excessive knock and cut timing. i cant find a good symbol for pressure so i used * hi, The board design is a simple arduino Uno with two shields (CANBUS shield & 4d displays systems shield). No other changes are required to the board and these are off the shelf items. the rest of the solution is simple arduino code to drive the CANBUS adapter and then display values on the 4d display. happy to post my code when it's finished
  44. 1 point
    Simon

    MK4 Supra ECU

    Mainly due to the time involved in the development of the unit for the specific application, (working out pinout, making board fit factory case etc) Any temp sensor can be used but if you stick to the ones we offer the set up is easier. The Bosch sensor is the best but not so easy to mount. Any wideband controller with a 0-5V out put can be used.
  45. 1 point
    Scott

    Setup Analog to Can Converter

    Possibly. The problem with the haltech CAN devices I have seen is that they do not publish the CAN data layout, so trying to configure your vi-pec/link to suit is not easy. However if you can get the data then no reason it shouldn't work. Also other manufacturers produce units that are able to be used (Motec E888, etc)
  46. 1 point
    Simon

    Plex uSDM interface

    With the CAN being configurable I'm 99% sure it will be compatible and in the past Plex have been very good at working with our products so suspect thay will have worked in with the generic dash stream.
  47. 1 point
    Hi Davidv, I am just suggesting what I do in alot of my applications, solid lifters, forged pistons etc. You can go to 8000 rpm if you wish, however I would much prefer to use audible det gear and trust the human ear via electronics and then setup the ignition timing from there. Regards Dave.
  48. 1 point
    Dave Kriedeman

    Ecu Settings table

    Hi Ducie54, That's because you got to many things going on that little beast of yours ha ha. Noted for LINK techs. Regards Dave
  49. 1 point
    Simon

    racepak(non logger) issues with v88

    Hmmm that is most odd. In theory when you read the config from the Vnet module they are the only inputs you can then assign to the Display. So when you right click on the IQ3 tab and go to set the inputs these have to be form the available list the Vnet gives you. Its almost like the Vnet module is not programed correctly. Im not sure if you can reprogram the pre configured modules.
  50. 1 point
    Simon

    ViPec V88 - KMS Can Display

    Yes the race technology options should be no problem.
×
×
  • Create New...