Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2015 in all areas

  1. 7 points

    ross trigger kit rb26

    Iecku, I just thought I would mention a little bit of info that many people miss. These kits appear to use the Honeywell 1GT101 sensor, these sensors are much slower on the rising edge than the falling edge. The datasheet quotes a 15µs rise time Vs 1µs for fall time. So for at least trigger 1 (that controls the timing) it would be more correct to set the trigger edge to falling. Even though 15µs is only like 0.9 deg at 10000RPM, if you can get extra accuracy just by a simple setting change - then you might as well use it...
  2. 5 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    Hi all, i am still alive

    Hi all, I just wanted to let everyone know I am still alive and slowly getting better after major surgery. Hopefully another couple of weeks and I will be able to get back to one of my very favourite past times, helping out with tech support where ever I can. I honestly miss this aspect of my life and has been a huge part of my life for so many years. I miss all the fantastic crew at LINK and can't wait to get back to business as usual. Take care everyone. Talk soon, Regards Dave.
  3. 4 points

    PCLink Released

    Hi guys, so I've just put up a new release of PCLink and the firmware. Thanks for your patience with this one You can grab it from here: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way: If you have any questions or issues please post them in this thread.
  4. 4 points

    Fuel system type Map to FP sensor

    This is a bug. Currently if you use ANV12 or higher for fuel pressure it does not work. We have an update coming shortly that will fix this issue and some others. Scott.
  5. 3 points
    orlando bello

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    windows 10 tablet . B4 and after .thanks for the awesome Link software.
  6. 3 points

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts... Hardware: For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time. However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first. Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive. To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect. Setup: Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well. The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across. Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet. Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/ It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing). As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu. Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both). Realworld Performance: You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery). It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.
  7. 3 points

    knock detection device

    Finally after far to long we have some recordings off the G4+ KnockBlock These recordings are off our well abused 1UZFE VVT test engine. Engine background noise.m4a Mild Knock with bad tune.m4a Severe Knock with bad tune.m4a
  8. 3 points
  9. 3 points

    Supra 2JZ-GTE 901 whp

    901 whp / 920 nm Vi-PEC V88 PT 6870 E85 Cheap, small eBay intercooler limit the power output. Should have seen 4-digit number with a proper cooler.
  10. 3 points

    closed loop lambda failsafe

    Hi warmup, this is certainly a good idea, and is currently on our request list.
  11. 3 points

    g4 tablet dash

    You can configure the look of PCLink however you like, but doing it on a tablet could be tricky. One solution would be to design your layout on a laptop/PC, save the layout file (Layout > Save Layout File As..) and then email it to the tablet and then open it in PCLink on the tablet. When it comes to actual design of the layout, you can add new pages by clicking Layout > New Page. You can add a gauge wherever you want one by right clicking in some available space and then selecting the gauge type you want.
  12. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman


    Hi everyone, If you wish or need to contact Tech support, LINK TECH SUPPORT is open Monday to Friday during New Zealand business hours. Both Simon and Scott are available and their email address is tech@linkecu.com Scott also works until 9 pm (please correct me if I am wrong Scott) for tech support. I DO NOT work for LINK but also offer my services 7 days a week as well as strange hours when I can't sleep. I can be contacted at protuning@bigpond.com Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
  13. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman


    Hi everyone, I just want to let everyone know for TECH SUPPORT you can use the following email addresses. Link tech support team email address is available during business hours Monday to Friday and some after hours support from Scott. tech@linkecu.com I also offer tech support, I DO NOT WORK for LINK however offer my assistance 7 days a week including some strange hours when I am awake. I can be emailed at protuning@bigpond.com Please feel free to use these resources as we are here to help. Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
  14. 3 points

    Knock Setup on G4+ Plug in - EVO 6

    Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up. 1. Wiring Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference. 2. Initial settings Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band. Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees. Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting) 3. Cylinder balancing Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others. So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder. You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34 See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible. You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1. 4. Non knock noise levels Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too. The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine. According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha. So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want) Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle) Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global. Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too. Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock. At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock. Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want: Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine. So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working. From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me) Hopefully it all makes sense though Where are you based / what is the car used for? Keen to hear how you get on.
  15. 2 points

    641hp/481tq pump gas 93 Evo 8 PNP

    We completed our first evo 8 pnp here at the shop on a car we built. Its a 2.0L 4g63 with oliver rods and wiseco HD pistons mated to our head with GSC s3 cams. T4 TS S364.5 SXE turbo with FIC 2150cc injectors and a Walbro 450 pump. We ran about 33psi to achieve the numbers. The ecu is awesome. Setup knock control, oil pressure safety, coolant temp safety(which already saved the car! The new fan took a crap on him when he was out for a cruise and hit the 225* 500rpm rev limit!!!). Here is a vid with dyno sheet at the end.
  16. 2 points

    EFI University or HPA?

    I'm a VIP member on HPA and have learnt alot, I recommend Andre and the team . A lot of there webinars are using the LINK so there's not much more you could ask for.
  17. 2 points
    I'll make a new wire and connect it to a new and good chassis ground and to "Plug C - PIN 8(Main Relay -)" and test it.
  18. 2 points

    TTLink with DSG - CAN bus data

    As far as I can see, the G4+ is capable of doing this with a user defined stream. I think the existing "load (abs)" parameter would be almost directly proportional to torque output so you could probably use this to create the torque message. I think you could then just use the CAN multiplier/divider/offset to convert the load parameter into the correct range of "torque numbers" that the gearbox expects to receive. I have a hunch however it might not actually want just predicted "torque output" - I vaguely remember seeing parameters more like "driver requested torque" associated with the few gear shift controls I have seen. - But I reckon even that should be possible to simulate with the existing tools. So the biggest challenge for the OP will be finding all the OEM CAN ID's and message structure etc and then finding someone who understands enough of it to translate it into the G4+ template and that will likely incur significant time and cost.
  19. 2 points

    180sx w/ SR20VET+Vipec V44

    Hey guys Just thought I'd share my setup on here. precision 5557 turbo ID1000s custom intercooler setup Hypertune manifold P12 8H6 Stock VVL head CP Pistons Manley Rods ACL bearings ARP Hardware Vipec V44 Loaded my own basemap on it enough to run and drive it to get to the dyno. (The "What's this" button works wonders!!!) Made decent power 454hp/330tq I'm looking to get launch control set-up for drifting so it builds boost while I'm clutched in and dragging the ebrake. GLAD TO BE ON HERE! Cheers!
  20. 2 points

    Fiat Uno Turbo success....almost

    I havent studied your log in great detail but it looks like your main issue is the post start enrichment table is filled with -100% so that is taking all your fuel out after cranking enrichment ends. Set post start enrichment to off for now. free upload
  21. 2 points
    They have seen it I'll move it to the request area now. Scott.
  22. 2 points

    ECU Output to tablet

    Apparently these allow you to transfer data and charge the device at the same time http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C452XFO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01
  23. 2 points

    Honda K20A base map

    Hi Niv, I don't have a base-map. The PCLink help file contains some info for this engine, have a look at: PCLink Help > Engine Specific Information > Honda > Honda K20PCLink Help > Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-throttle > Specific E-Throttle Applications > Honda K20 - 60mm.Scott
  24. 2 points

    Innovate Wideband LC-2 VS MTX-L

    Yellow is the default wideband output on innovate controllers so would be the correct wire to use.
  25. 2 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    Laptop causing issues?

    Hi Rob W, You should not have any fear or regrets in the Link or no longer available ViPEC brand. These ECU's are brilliant and same for the software. I have installed and tuned that many I wouldn't remember. I have never had even one failure. Enjoy. Regards Dave.