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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2015 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Adamw

    ross trigger kit rb26

    Iecku, I just thought I would mention a little bit of info that many people miss. These kits appear to use the Honeywell 1GT101 sensor, these sensors are much slower on the rising edge than the falling edge. The datasheet quotes a 15µs rise time Vs 1µs for fall time. So for at least trigger 1 (that controls the timing) it would be more correct to set the trigger edge to falling. Even though 15µs is only like 0.9 deg at 10000RPM, if you can get extra accuracy just by a simple setting change - then you might as well use it...
  2. 5 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    Hi all, i am still alive

    Hi all, I just wanted to let everyone know I am still alive and slowly getting better after major surgery. Hopefully another couple of weeks and I will be able to get back to one of my very favourite past times, helping out with tech support where ever I can. I honestly miss this aspect of my life and has been a huge part of my life for so many years. I miss all the fantastic crew at LINK and can't wait to get back to business as usual. Take care everyone. Talk soon, Regards Dave.
  3. 4 points
    TechDave

    PCLink 5.6.4.3229 Released

    Hi guys, so I've just put up a new release of PCLink and the firmware. Thanks for your patience with this one You can grab it from here: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way: If you have any questions or issues please post them in this thread.
  4. 4 points
    Scott

    Fuel system type Map to FP sensor

    This is a bug. Currently if you use ANV12 or higher for fuel pressure it does not work. We have an update coming shortly that will fix this issue and some others. Scott.
  5. 3 points
    TechDave

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.5.3338 Released

    Good morning everybody, Last night we released a new PCLink and Firmware, I updated this thread but it didn't stick (weird eh?) Thanks for your patience with the 5.6.2 to 5.6.5 update-requiring-ECU unlock bug. Thanks Davidv for his work around. I'll leave these notes attached because they're still quite relevant to this release: As always, here's how to update your firmware the best way:
  6. 3 points
    orlando bello

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    windows 10 tablet . B4 and after .thanks for the awesome Link software.
  7. 3 points
    Hyperblade

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    After doing a bit of research recently into running a tablet as the primary dash for my car here's some thoughts... Hardware: For the older Windows tablets using Micro usb you should be wary of any claims of being able to charge and have a device connected, a lot of descriptions of the adapter cables are wrong as it totally depends on the tablet, so make sure you do your research first, if in doubt it likely doesn't support both at same time. However I believe the new tablets which support USB C may be better in this regard, again do your research first. Performance of PcLink on lower speced windows tablets (1.3ghz quad cpu, 1gig ram etc) is actually very good, PcLink will be very slow as the software initially connects to the ecu, and the display wont respond for a good 10 seconds, but once it syncs up it works perfectly. Here's my 8 Inch acer tablet with Windows 10 and PcLink with different layouts Because I could not charge and display data at same time I just ran it on battery, it lasted for a good 5-6 hours which was impressive. To me there's no point in having a tablet that can't charge and display so I replaced the above with a Lenovo ThinkPad Tablet 2 (2 usb ports, 10 inch) with Windows 10 and PcLink This charges and runs at the same time which is perfect. Setup: Setting up PcLink for the tablets is a bit of a pain as PcLink doesn't support touch very well. The easiest way is to have another pc with PcLink running and do the setup on that then transfer the layout files across. Your best to set the resolution of the display on your laptop to match the tablet as otherwise positioning of elements is very hit and miss (especially with high res displays) the ThinkPad I brought has a pen which made resizing and moving elements actually doable on the tablet. Note there is an issue with PcLink and some tablets (My acer one doesn't have this issue) where they throw a "Access violation at address 00000000 in module 'PCLink.exe'. Read pf address 0000000." same as this thread http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6144-access-violation-at-address-00000000-in-module-pclinkexe-read-pf-address-0000000/ It appears to be to do with the 3d chart display and it's very frustrating as PcLink is unrunnable as it triggers the error when ever you open PcLink and when it occurs it stops PcLink from working correctly. You can work around this by running PcLink on a normal pc, getting rid of the default layout with a simpler one then copying the entire folder "C:\Link G4\PCLink G4+" directly to your tablet (this means the software wont try and load the default link layouts which cause the crash). Once you have done this then you can just import layout files as normal (just make sure you use non 3d gauges). Hopefully they fix this at some point (even if it's just disabling 3d charts rather then crashing). As an aside PcLink is inconsistent with how it handles limits on displays, i.e analogue vs digital are configured in different sections of the app, Once you realise this then configuring it's not to hard, however I still haven't found a way yet to get rid of the decimal point on the km/h. PcLink has options for automatically going full screen, and auto connecting which are easily turned on through the menu. Then in windows I have set it as a start up app so it opens automatically, and have changed the user account to go straight to desktop rather the sign in screen (this is a bit more work involving regedit, guides can be found online for both). Realworld Performance: You can see me using my 8 inch tablet in a race here (fully on battery). It performed flawlessly, however as you can see in the video glare is an issue with these tablets (visibility was ok from the drivers seat but could be better), so if using as your main dash then a hood/cover is something you want to look into fitting.
  8. 3 points
    Simon

    knock detection device

    Finally after far to long we have some recordings off the G4+ KnockBlock These recordings are off our well abused 1UZFE VVT test engine. Engine background noise.m4a Mild Knock with bad tune.m4a Severe Knock with bad tune.m4a
  9. 3 points
  10. 3 points
    bsh

    Supra 2JZ-GTE 901 whp

    901 whp / 920 nm Vi-PEC V88 PT 6870 E85 Cheap, small eBay intercooler limit the power output. Should have seen 4-digit number with a proper cooler.
  11. 3 points
    Scott

    closed loop lambda failsafe

    Hi warmup, this is certainly a good idea, and is currently on our request list.
  12. 3 points
    Scott

    g4 tablet dash

    You can configure the look of PCLink however you like, but doing it on a tablet could be tricky. One solution would be to design your layout on a laptop/PC, save the layout file (Layout > Save Layout File As..) and then email it to the tablet and then open it in PCLink on the tablet. When it comes to actual design of the layout, you can add new pages by clicking Layout > New Page. You can add a gauge wherever you want one by right clicking in some available space and then selecting the gauge type you want.
  13. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    TECH SUPPORT VIA EMAIL

    Hi everyone, If you wish or need to contact Tech support, LINK TECH SUPPORT is open Monday to Friday during New Zealand business hours. Both Simon and Scott are available and their email address is tech@linkecu.com Scott also works until 9 pm (please correct me if I am wrong Scott) for tech support. I DO NOT work for LINK but also offer my services 7 days a week as well as strange hours when I can't sleep. I can be contacted at protuning@bigpond.com Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
  14. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    TECH SUPPORT VIA EMAIL

    Hi everyone, I just want to let everyone know for TECH SUPPORT you can use the following email addresses. Link tech support team email address is available during business hours Monday to Friday and some after hours support from Scott. tech@linkecu.com I also offer tech support, I DO NOT WORK for LINK however offer my assistance 7 days a week including some strange hours when I am awake. I can be emailed at protuning@bigpond.com Please feel free to use these resources as we are here to help. Thanks for using LINK. Regards Dave.
  15. 3 points
    Davidv

    Knock Setup on G4+ Plug in - EVO 6

    Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up. 1. Wiring Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference. 2. Initial settings Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band. Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees. Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting) 3. Cylinder balancing Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others. So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder. You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34 See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible. You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1. 4. Non knock noise levels Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too. The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine. According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha. So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want) Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle) Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global. Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too. Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock. At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock. Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want: Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine. So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working. From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me) Hopefully it all makes sense though Where are you based / what is the car used for? Keen to hear how you get on.
  16. 2 points
    Efiguy

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi All, Ben here from EFI University. Honestly, you really can't go wrong with any of the choices out there. Ben and Andre at HPA do a really great job and we have nothing negative to say, in fact a lot of our customers tell us they've used both and learned things from both. We try really hard to focus on giving our clients a real world "experience" by letting them actually put their hands on the dyno and doing the work. It's obviously a different approach to the learning process than an online experience, and we realize that due to cost and time not everyone can take advantage of this platform so we do offer some online training as well. As we move forward we may offer more of the online stuff based on requests from customers, but it's unlikely we'll ever transition to online only as it just doesn't stack up in real value to the customer the way a true hands-on experience does. I always like to use flight training as an example...you can only play on Microsoft Flight simulator for so long and eventually you HAVE to get into the airplane. No matter what, the experience will be different in real life so while we absolutely agree there is value in online video based training, our focus will always remain on training in a real world environment. I hope that was a helpful introduction and explanation of our core philosophy and if anyone had any questions don't hesitate to call or drop an email! Thanks, Ben Strader, President, EFI University, inc
  17. 2 points
    Scott

    PC Log indercator

    I will ask the engineers if they can add this to the Options > Colour Theme . This way you can choose the colour you would like to use. Scott.
  18. 2 points
    paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    Hi All, I have my car back at home now, out of storage so I'll try and finish this project and document the whole build
  19. 2 points
    Brendon001

    VVTI question Altezza

    Did a compression test once it had warmed up, ResulResults were good so was hapoy with that! Cyl 1- 180psi Cyl 2- 180psi Cyl 3 -185psi Cyl 4 -182 psi The old plugs had been in for around 3 years thinking about it, done 30000kms on them (5 track days!)and had brown rings above the threaded part on the porcelain almost like compression lekage etc, fitted new plugs so will see how that goes dunno why i overlooked those... Brendon
  20. 2 points
    paulr33

    DIY vipec display

    Haven't forgotten about this, car still in storage for about another month
  21. 2 points
    Conny Karlsson

    More Virtual AUX

    Hi! It would be nice if there could be more virtual aux so i can create more functions also would be nice if there could be more conditions to use to create logic Control..
  22. 2 points
    AXA

    Track-display logging with G-force sensor

    AEM just got one out in the $300 dollars price range... is calle Vehicle Dynamics module PN: 30-2203 3 Axis Accelerometer 3 Axis Gyroscope 5Hz GPS/Glonaass Can 2.0 Output The good thing about this is: AEM published its AEMnet CAN protocol, The VDM may work with 3rd party programmable engine management system and data loggers....
  23. 2 points
    JMP

    Toyota 1zz-fe base map

    The Dash Cluster temp meter is fed direct from the ECU, it will always read cold with every aftermarket ECU apart from Kaizen Garage's ZZE/ZZT Adaptronic based plugin which has an additional circuit onboard to convert the signal to one the cluster can accept. The stock ECU outputs it's engine coolant temperature signal for the dash cluster from pin B-17, on the 22 pin ECU plug. PCB pin THWO. You can trace the signal with an oscilloscope using the stock ECU from dead cold to operating temp and then use an audrino or similar to create a module that will convert one of the vipec outputs to a signal the same as stock the cluster can interpret The narrowband sensor is quite useless, please replace it with a wideband setup You will need to tune all the idle base position tables etc from scratch
  24. 2 points
    Full build RB26 Garrett GTX40, Tomei 272 Cams + springs + retainers, Precision 1300cc Injectors, Tomei Head Gasket, Cp pistons, Eagle rods, ACL Main & Rods Bearings, Nittio Oil Pump, ORC Triple plate Clutch Methanol/Water Injection Link ECU Plug-in Tuned By Hussain Essa Regards,,,, Hussain Essa Qatif Eastern Province Saudi Arabia
  25. 2 points
    Simon

    EGT on Storm

    There are some good options from these guys http://www.exhaustgas.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=1815&DepartmentID=16&CategoryID=56&MenuID=sub7&BasketID=&RepID=
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