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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Brad Burnett

    3sgte knock gain

    I would suggest switching to the bosch wideband sensor. Or you will need to better dial in the knock frequency.
  2. 1 point
    Adamw

    Aem map sensor calibration error codes

    Ok, with ignition on, engine off, open up the runtimes screen (F12) and note down the value of the 3 parameters highlighted below. Reply with those.
  3. 1 point
    Adamw

    Ballenger AFR 500 Analogue output

    Yep, use cal 4,5 or 6 and that’s all you need.
  4. 1 point
    iecku

    3sgte knock gain

    Attached a typical 3SGTE Gen3 Knock Setup with the Bosch Sensor....
  5. 1 point
    Brad Burnett

    3sgte knock gain

    What knock sensor are you using?
  6. 1 point
    Davidv

    Idle setting for open loop and closed lopp

    ISCV is too slow to really be useful for quick changes in closed loop, you really need to get your fuel dialled in nicely and then ignition trim is the best way to keep it stable in my opinion.
  7. 1 point
    boostDR

    Warm Start Struggles

    I had a similar issue. Couldn’t sort it out. Running a truck battery jumped helped which made me think the dead time vs voltage was off. But I feel that may be related to better spark to ignite the mixture The thing that fixed it completely was removing my Xspurt 1000cc injectors which had the dispersion disc machined off like other high flow injectors (ID,etc) and replacing with Bosch 3/4 long nose 980cc injectors. These have a proper dispersion cap (7 hole maybe) rather than the garden hose single outlet. All my problems went away. Black smoke disappeared, starting problems were non existent Car felt OEM again and picked up some fuel economy and power. Picked up the problem by filming the injector firing at cranking on a high speed camera. The Xspurt injector would hit the valve/port and stick to it mostly, the Bosch would hit it and bouch back in a mist Ball night and day difference. The Amount of post injection Tau(wall wetting) is very obvious with less than desired atomization. May not be your problem but though it worth mentioning my experience Matt
  8. 1 point
    try putting in the Lambda calibration . IIRC that's what fixed my problem.
  9. 1 point
    JMP

    Idle setting for open loop and closed lopp

    If the idle is oscillating, I'd look to adjust your base ignition and fuel tables to stabilise it first
  10. 1 point
    from my experience with the quad cam avcs, full throttle pull, exhaust cam will sit around 25-30deg. when adam says the thing is rich, .65 is way to rich and I bet is causing misfire. These engines work better around .78-.8 lambda.
  11. 1 point
    Provided the timing marks line up then you have done it correct. If you are still using a distributor then you should check rotor phasing is still ok also.
  12. 1 point
    Simon

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    Should being the key element in that. We have put in a couple of other fixes so taking a little longer. But it is very close I have been running a test version for a few days now and all seems happy.
  13. 1 point
    NeilB

    R34 GTR Starting Issues with G4+

    Hi all, just after a little advice. I've just had a new install of a g4+ in a R34 GTR which has an issue with starting, everything was fine beforehand. When starting, the engine turns over strongly and fuelling is fine, it just does not start, as if there is no spark. If you then put a booster on the battery it will start and will then also start straight away after its been running. The battery is new and uprated. I was told this was a common issue with the GTR and link ecu's, that when the battery drops a little, it does not start ?? Im no expert but find this hard to believe and wonder if the ecu has been set up correctly or if there is anything I can do? Any help will be much appreciated!
  14. 1 point
    StijnDvx

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.6.3564 (on hold)

    its 6 days past that date any news ? need it also for a new laptop
  15. 1 point
    Adamw

    help, timed outputs

    Ok, set up below. Aux 1 will give a 2 second pulse when DI5 is turned on, Aux 2 will give a 2 second pulse when DI5 is switched off. Aux 2 will also give a 2 second pulse at key-on to make sure the valve? is closed. If you dont want a pulse at key-on like this then you can add a 3rd condition "RPM>500".
  16. 1 point
    Adamw

    help, timed outputs

    Ok, tell us which DI the switch is connected to and which aux outputs you want to use and I will post an example tomorrow.
  17. 1 point
    Steve

    V6, lambda different bank to bank

    You could loosen up the WG actuator rod a litte bit to fix that tho..
  18. 1 point
    For quite a while I've had an issue with an oscillating idle especially during the winter months with a built Subaru application. We first came across it on my V88 ViPec ECU, but could not do too much about it given that I was out of tables on the ECU to bring online certain features such as idle ignition control. Since moving to the G4+, I have been able to activate the Idle Ignition table, which seems to have helped things out especially on warmup from cold, but I'm finding that when up to temperature, the oscillation seems to return, and the ECU appears to be bouncing into parts of the ignition map (i.e. at 2500rpm) that it shouldn't really be doing, given that target idle is more like 1200rpm, which is contributing to the oscillation. As is now, when sitting at traffic lights, other motorists could easily be forgiven for thinking that I was trying to instigate a race, given how it sounds as if I am constantly blipping the throttle. This isn't much of an issue at all while the engine is warming up, but tends to become a lot more prevalent once at operating temps. I have taken a log and map for your perusal. If any of our resident experts knows what I need to be adjusting, I would very much be grateful. Map 1.1.pclr Map 1.1 Idle log - Log 2018-01-20 9;54;42 pm.llg
  19. 1 point
    Thanks Adam, will do. I will set the idle ignition lockout back to the previous value which kept it off. I know the idle is not perfect yet, but compared to where it was before, it's a night and day difference so far. The map was ported over from my Vipec V88 where it was controlling the fans as they should. It seems there are a few settings that get lost in the translation when making the upgrade. I will report back with logs and the updated map soon. Thanks everyone for your contributions so far. I'm extremely grateful!
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