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  1. There are definitely plans in the future to investigate other comms options for the next generation of ecu's, but with G4X we have stuck with USB so that PC Link didnt need a complete re-write as well (Months, if not years of work for our small team). The comms chipset that is in the G4X is capable of native high speed USB 2.0 as well - not only the virtual com port system that is being used at present so in theory it has the potential to be very fast. I believe this is being worked on. Ethernet is nice and robust, resilient to noise and makes wireless easy, but it has some significant n
    2 points
  2. Adamw

    Inputting CAN

    Ok if your freinds info is correct then the settings below would be how to set it up. Your original screenshot doesnt show any ID's 77A or FA though. Note you will need to be connected to the ECU part of the bus, not the OBD side. Set up channel 1 & 2 like below: Set up stream 1 & 2 like this:
    1 point
  3. wastegate

    Link user CAN help

    Update, HGM fixed the firmware and now have gear change request. Thanks Adam on the torque reduction strategy, works a treat. Just need to fine tune it. I've reduced the IGN trim retard a little as I don't have 20 degrees of timing in some spots and it's getting retarded too much and seems to spike boost.
    1 point
  4. As I say, unplug a couple of aux pins at a time until you find your culprit. They come out easy - no tools needed. You want at least Injectors and ignition coils to remain connected to the same source as the ecu so it can apply correct deadtimes and dwell times.
    1 point
  5. The back feed can only be caused by one of the accesories that is connected to an aux output being "hot fed" (live all the time, not ignition switched). Remove the diode, find which aux is causing the backfeed and move it to an ignition switched feed. The easiest way is often to pull say 2 aux output pins out of the main connector at a time until the problem goes away, then you can narrow down which one it is. Ignition outputs and injector outputs on the Storm cant backfeed so it is only the aux outputs you need to investigate. Correct main power wiring is below, and I have also atta
    1 point
  6. The problem is the diode you have drawn in the main ECU power supply - you need to remove that. The flyback from the solenoids needs to be able to go back to the battery though that wire, having the diode there will prevent that. With nowhere for the flyback to go it will just "pump up" the ECU voltage.
    1 point
  7. Adamw

    Startup map needed.

    Yes, you can load the ST205 map into any G4+ ECU. After loading you will just need to set up the inputs and outputs to match how your car has been wired.
    1 point
  8. dx4picco

    'Save All' logs

    that is already possible in the log file manager on the left. just click on it and it changes the log you are in
    1 point
  9. dbiegunski

    PT Cruiser 2.4

    Beside the crank/cam trigger patterns I don't think so. Here's a base map I've found for a Neon SRT-4 Thank you
    1 point
  10. For Lambda 2, unplug the first lambda so that only lambda 2 is connected to the bus, (you dont need to change anything on the main Mode tab - leave only one channel set to Link CAN lambda and ID 950), then go to CAN devices tab, click Find Devices, when it finds the device, change the parameter drop down box to "Lambda 2" and then hit the send button. Press apply, ok, do a store, power everything off. Plug all CAN lambdas back in and re-power up, both should now be identified and working. For power, prefereably they should just be connected to an ign switched source - let the ECU contro
    1 point
  11. cwhite951

    best support

    after reading Adams detailed answers to lots of other peoples questions it is clear to me that I will have to vote for Adam (write in vote) for president in the upcoming US election! He is way better than the other choices!!
    1 point
  12. Adamw

    Wheel Speed Sensors

    I cant remember if they need the pull-up on or not, try it and see. Either edge should work equally.
    1 point
  13. It will need a bottom board revision to resolve this. The bottom board has been unchanged between G4, G4+ and G4x. It is ear marked to be revised in the future.
    1 point
  14. Confused

    Launch control and DI

    It needs to be positioned a couple of mm away from the surface it is detecting. So, looks like you'll need to make up a bracket.
    1 point
  15. Confused

    Launch control and DI

    Yes, I want to start using traction control, so that needs at least 2 speed inputs, so 2 Digital Inputs. It is waterproof, been exposed to a lot of typical English weather, so lots of rain!
    1 point
  16. Confused

    Launch control and DI

    Here's a snip from one of my log files which shows some low speed. The yellow line is from my 4 pulse per revolution, the purple from my prop-diff pickup. As you'll see, as soon as the rear detected movement, so did the front. By 15mph they were both practically identical, despite the rear having nearly 4x the resolution. Whether that's enough for you, I can't say. I decided I wanted more pulses per revolution, so have made modifications to do so. You probably could attach this sensor to the thin metal backing plate, it's fully threaded so you can adjust the depth accordin
    1 point
  17. Confused

    Launch control and DI

    It's 3 wire - 12v power, ground, and signal. This goes into a Digital Input on the ECU. Calibrate it (as per the help file), and have a nice accurate speed. The bracket took me about 15 minutes to fabricate.
    1 point
  18. Adamw

    Launch control and DI

    It is really up to you to tune it to acheive what you want. I dont know what type of racing you are doing or anything. Circuit racers often have a non-driven wheel speed based launch strategy. Jet skis and boats often use a timer strategy. Drag racers with big tires will often just have a fixed limit while the clutch or transbrake is engaged. It is better to use a virtual aux to enable it rather than setting it to "always on" as when it is always on your closed loop lambda and knock control will be disabled. A common virtual aux condition may be something like TP>50% and wheel s
    1 point
  19. Adamw

    Launch control and DI

    Usually best to have and arming switch or another option is to use a virtual aux. Yes, for speed base launch control this is why non-driven wheel speed is suggested.
    1 point
  20. Adamw

    Launch control and DI

    You cant use a GP speed as non driven wheel speed. Change your DI2 function to one of the wheel speeds - say LF wheel speed. The go to the chassis and Body folder, speed sources, and set non driven wheel speed source to LF wheel.
    1 point
  21. M1tch

    Inj Deadt and Dwell

    You download the file, go to the dwell time table, right click, click on 'import/export and then 'import from file' - you then open the file you have just downloaded and it will load in the table for you.
    1 point
  22. You can export table and import too, so when you setup your tables so you don't need to setup each axis from trim tables
    1 point
  23. I had time to play with this today. It looks like you can make it work as is. In the ECU's that dont have the serial data stream settings visible In PC link, it seems that the "requested short" data stream method is enabled by default. Realdash is compatible with that. In PC Link set the baud to 57600. In Realdash set the baud the same and set it to "use short datastream". Let me know if it works for you. I tested it on a couple of my test ecu's and it seemed to work.
    1 point
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