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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Rob W

    Engine hesitation after retuning

    Well said Ken. I mentioned in another forum that the wideband only measures "burnt fuel" and the cams skew the readings. Mine Ej engine runs best at cruise .9-.95 with cams rather than the more traditional 1.0+
  2. 1 point
    Ken Dunkley

    Engine hesitation after retuning

    Hi- An old saying is - An engine wants what it wants - . Perhaps make it richer in the areas where you feel this noticeable bucking. To me this is a sign of running lean . With your cams you can get intake reversion and all sorts of weird pressure waves happening that can effect smooth running . Especially at that point of light throttle and low/medium engine speed . Dont be stuck on A/F targets at this particular problem area - Try it at 0.9 and see how it runs .
  3. 1 point
    namre

    Engine hesitation after retuning

    update: my lambda values on the ecu was crap since calibration was wrong. could not find the correct values but we have retuned fuel according to gauge this time. most of the bucking went away and it's better now. so there were wrong afr values in ecu readings. now only in 2nd gear if you force to drive constantly at 2500 rpm there is a little bucking and i guess this is normal?
  4. 1 point
    This is how i would wire it. Start with basic triggering before PWM pump so you know all 4 work. Sorry about the crap paint skills
  5. 1 point
    you can def activate more than 1 aux in test mode. but the way you have it set up now, your aux 1 is sending out a ground when on, aux 7 is sending out 12v.
  6. 1 point
    I don't see any problem with the set up. Why is Aux 7 set to high polarity tho? if it works like that it would suggest there is a problem with the wiring. polarity = high means it works inverted to normal, so the aux output is off to command the fuel pump to turn on?
  7. 1 point
    Adamw

    Help needed with ecu for cooper s

    The factory "post supercharger" MAP sensor is normally used, it is rated for 2.5Bar absolute (approx 1.5Bar boost), assuming you are not planning to run boost higher than that then the factory one is fine. This is already set up in our base map so you dont need to do anything, it will work out of the box. The pre-supercharger sensor is also connected to the ECU and can be logged or used for diagnostics but it is generally not used as part of the engine control. For the CAN lambda, the most common method to connect is by using our CANPCB adapter cable and the mating CANF plug, you still need to run your own wires from the CAN Lambda to the CANF plug though. A pic to show this set up is below. Some dealers may also offer a pre-fabricated loom to make life easier, here is an example from NZEFI: http://www.nzefi.com/wp-content/uploads/NZEFI-Link-G4-G4-ECU-to-CAN-Device-Cables.jpg
  8. 0 points
    There is a limit to the amount of data the dash will receive and we have reached the limit!
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