Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/15/2019 in Posts

  1. 1 point

    Fuel Pressure Sensor recommendations

    That's a solid sensor. There are 15-20 cars local to me running the same one.
  2. 1 point

    Fuel Pressure Sensor recommendations

    have a look on mouser or digikey for honeywell PX2 or PX3 sensors. They come in various fittings including 1/8-27npt and pressure ranges up to 10bar. One of them is brass body and the other stainless but are otherwise very similar. Try to get the ones with Nitrile o-rings in them. Nitrile handles contact with fuel better. The spec sheet for these tells you which letter of the product code identifies the o-ring type. Dont buy the chinese copies of these from aliexpress/ebay/etc. Even if they are accurate on day 1, they very quickly (a few weeks) become bascially random number generators. The genuine ones are reliable howver, and provide good data sheets that are easy to set up in the link calibrations
  3. 1 point

    WRX phantom RPM limit problem

    Another thing you can try is set the trig2 lockout to below the point where your trigger issue often occurs. The ecu will then ignore the cam sensor above this RPM, if the error is related to the cam sensor or cam timing etc that may help.
  4. 1 point
    @Serkan Thanks for getting back to us with that info. Good to know it was resolved.
  5. 1 point

    WRX phantom RPM limit problem

    It is likely getting noise on the trigger signals so could be a coil breaking down causing noise and then the RPM error. I'm assuming this is an older install and it has developed over time.
  6. 1 point
    Hi sorry for being late to reply. In both my cases I concluded that there were problems with the wiring. In the first car, there was a problem with the solder of the sensor ground, in the second car the throttle plug was not seating fully into the socket. In both cases there was electrical continuity most of the time but from what I understand the e throttle system is VERY sensitive. The solder problem and the problem with the plug were randomly creating just enough resistance to trigger the fault. Fixed the problems, re calibrated and no more faults ever since. Hope it helps !
  7. 1 point

    WRC Launch control

    Do you have a DI engine like all those cars? They dont do anything too special, although their launch control strategy will include significant DBW throttle control as well as the normal ign & fuel cuts but mostly they are not popping and banging like a port injected engine because with DI you can use much more fuel cut without the normal wall wetting delays.
  8. 1 point

    Subaru WRX 2004 with link ecu 44s

    The 44S ecu is a G1 based ECU so I have moved your post to the G1 section. You will find the manual for the PossumLink 44S in the section at the top labelled "G1 Manuals". You will need to use PC Link V2.5 for this ECU. Im pretty sure the G3 drivers should work ok with the Comlink so check in device manager that the comlink shows up under Ports - COM & LPT. Note from memory the Comlink must be assigned to comport COM1-9. If it is not looking happy in device manager then post back and I will find a driver that should work.
  9. 1 point

    PC Link closes Tune file when connecting

    I see, I wish that it would always ask if I wanted to load write the changes to the ecu, no matter how large. Because when it just loads the config out of the ecu and doesn't notify about anything, it's easy to think there were not any changes in the tune file. Then you carry on, tuning the config loaded from the ecu, until you realize there is no filename associated with the open tune file. Then you have to open the old file and see what's different, plus the changes you've recently made to the config file that was automatically loaded.... I've lost a good bit of time this way. If it's not possible for PCLink to ask if you want to load a tune with large differences, there should at least be a dialog that notifies what's going on (tune uploaded from ECU is replacing the open tune).
  10. 1 point
    Note, it sounds like you have some other (possibly wiring) problem from what you describe, but just FYI, you do not need a custom cal table for that sensor. Just set the calibration to "1000Kpa (150psi) TI sensor".
  11. 1 point
    Another way to work around the missing inputs on the Thunder (or to divide an input frequency down on other ECUs) is to use a CMOS 4018 IC. No external components required and can be powered from the ECUs +5 Volt supply. To divide by 10, the inverted Q5 output is fed back into the data input pin. I used this last week to divide by 8 on a fury (I fed back the inverted Q4 pin to data) Hope this helps, Richard.
  12. 1 point
    Hi Everyone, My V3 Sti RA has both Manual and Auto switches. Manual used to run trigger a spray for about 3 seconds, timing relay is now gone due to a knob trying to steal the car...Auto never worked for me, even prior to the Link G4 Plugin being installed. Anyways...thought I'd just re-wire the lot, and wire in the Link. Just wondering how others have done it? The more I think about it, the more ways I see it being possibly done. I'd like to have the Manual function utilise a timer in the link i.e. Wire the manual SW (momentary ON) to a DI, then set a timer so it sprays for say 3s. The Auto i'm thinking i'll link to IAT, so it sprays at say 70deg. I need the Auto SW (ON/OFF type) Â to be in the picture so I can disable the Spray for when I'm just cruising round otherwise I'll always be filling the reservoir! Plus my 'level SW' appears to not work anymore either, so my safety net of that stopping the pump run dry is gone. (side question, are these easy to track down?) The Link plug-in is tight for outputs as well, so I'm not sure I can do both functions through just one output or will I need two? I think I have one Aux Output (A/C clutch) and I could use one of the Aux - IGN outputs (don't need A/C fan). Got heaps of DI's free. Thanks in advance! Matt
  • Create New...