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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/28/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Dave Kriedeman

    NEW WEB SITE IS STUNNING.

    Hi all, I just wanted to congratulate the team at LINK on a truly stunning upgrade to their WEBSITE. The colours and the layout etc really catch the eye. Very pleasant to scan through the pages. The format is very well laid out. Also not just the WEBSITE, but the company and products in general. I have been with LINK as a user and dealer since the conception of ViPEC and it has been sure great to be part of and also a witness to the transformation and growth of an already great product and company to a world leader in the Electronic Fuel Injection Industry. I have also really enjoyed working with the LINK team over all of these years and hope to continue doing so. So congratulations LINK and very well done. Keep going on this fantastic journey. Regards Dave Kriedeman PRO TUNING.
  2. 3 points
    Simon

    G4x Base map

    For those looking for a base map to have a play with. Software can be found at http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink 6.15.15.exe Monsoon FW 6.15.6.pclx
  3. 3 points
    TechDave

    Share your Math Channel List

    So this afternoon I sat at the simulator and started mucking about with a few ideas. I wanted to calculate my average speed based on some event, I used a digital input latching on. In the UK we have average speed camera zones, you get snapped at the start and end and they do a distance over time calculation. Often you'll get slowed down by a Karen in an X5 not paying attention, I've always been curious how much I could safely speed up again to catch back up to 50 mph average over the trip. You can do this in log analysis with the statistics view, but this is obviously operating at runtime. So there's a few things here I've done that aren't documented yet, yes they will be. The first is that maths channels can do reassignment, x = x + 1 etc The next is that they're evaluated at 1000 Hz Lastly I know of a few built in functions too. I figured out two methods, of averaging, the first could be used not only for wheel speed, but for really any parameter, lambda, throttle position, you could use another maths function to find lambda, vvt, boost, etc error then feed that function into this one and have an average of error over some time period. This one uses this algorithm: newAverage = oldAverage + (newSample - oldAverage)/sampleNumber the cnt function is a real good cnt function, it counts 1 per cycle (so 1 per millisecond) while c is greater than or equal to 1, so if you feed it a status which evaluates to 0 OFF and 1 ON, then you're away. If you want to use this for Anti-Lag active we might have to get a bit imaginative about an offset, iirc Anti-Lag OFF = 0, ON = 1, Active = 2...etc I had to add a +1 to cnt because on the first cycle it's 0 and that's div by 0, plus the first cycle is the 1st sample too. The 2nd method I came up with was to calculate distance, which of itself is a useful function, then calculate distance/time, again using that good cnt function: Again using reassignment in the Distance function, multiply speed by 1/100th of a second, of a minute, of a hour to get distance travelled per millisecond (rate is 1kHz), I multipled by status to simply switch it on and off. This gives me km. distance a over time, divide by the same multi as above gets us back to an average. You don't need to use 8dp for this, I was just using it while getting my exponents sorted. My functions agree with each other and track to my expectations, but if you spot an error in my maths then shout out edit: unfortunately this is all in kph as I started running out of characters to add the mph multiplier, I've spoken with engineering and we'll see if we can get the length increased, 2.77e-7 helped a lot, but still lost a bit to parenthesis too.
  4. 3 points
    Ducie54

    G4x Base map

    As a feature request can we have the option on which Lambda sensor is used for CLL. As example I'm using 5 lambda sensors. One in the turbo dump pipe and 4 in the turbo manifold using a CAN module. The software uses a average for CLL but would be nice to use Lambda one so manifold pressure is not an influence. Currently to get around this from happening I've set the 4 CAN lambdas as CAN TC.
  5. 3 points
    Simon

    G4x Base map

    Yep Multi fuel and traction control will be coming
  6. 2 points
    Adamw

    Flex/ Temp Sensor in one?

    All flex fuel sensors do that. The signal is a PWM, the Ethanol % is the frequency and the temp is DC or pulse width. You just set the DI to "ethanol sensor" and both Ethanol % and temp will be available in the ECU.
  7. 2 points
    I wanted to share my success using a bluetooth adapter since I have not seen any other posts about using one on this forum. So far I have only tested it with an Android tablet and RealDash. It has been working perfectly. Connection is fast and very reliable. There is no noticeable lag on the dash interface. There are a few advantages of using Bluetooth over USB for a tablet dash. 1) The usb port on the tablet is freed up to be used for charging (this can also be used to automatically turn the tablet on/off with key power) 2) The usb port on the ECU can be dedicated to the Laptop usb cable for tuning (dash cannot be used simultaneously with laptop, but less plugging/unplugging) This is assuming that your Link ECU has separate tuning and CANBUS ports. The Bluetooth Adapter I have been using is one made for Megasquirt MS2/MS3 – PerfectTuning is the manufacturer. https://perfecttuning.net/en/accessories/26-bluetooth-adapter-for-ms2-and-ms3.html There are a few other BT adapters for megasquirt, they are all likely the same Bluetooth chip and work the same. The Megasquirt uses a DB9 connector for serial connection, so that is what comes with the BT adapter. In order to connect to the Link you will need a Link CAN connector http://dealers.linkecu.com/CANF_2 These connectors need to be soldered and can be somewhat difficult due to their small size. Cable pigtail is also available but fairly expensive. The following is the pinout on CAN connector, the BT DB9 connector and where those wires need to end up. This can be wired a few different ways. Either the DB9 connector on the BT adapter can be mated to with a female DB9, or it can be cut off and hardwired (or use a different style connector). The two serial wires will go to the CAN connector on the ECU (TX to RX, and vice versa). The 5v and GND wires will need to go to a 5v power source. Do not use the 5v supply from the ECU, the BT adapter can draw up to 30mA. 12V DC to 5V power supplies are very common, it is the same voltage as USB chargers. What I did was buy a USB charger and hardwire a USB cable pigtail to make the connection. I used and like this model: I recommend powering the 5v power supply from the ACC terminal (radio power) on the ignition switch. This way there is still power to the Bluetooth with the key in position 1 (ignition off). This will allow you to power cycle the ECU without killing power to the Bluetooth adapter – leaving it wirelessly connected to the tablet. This means that the dash will be live in about a second instead of 5-10sec. In order to use the tuning port to connect a laptop, either the CAN connector must be removed or a 2 pole switch/relay must be put on the serial wires coming from the CAN connector. The switch must be within about 20cm of the ECU, otherwise the serial stream may become active and not allow the laptop to connect. Once the laptop has been connected, the ECU must be restarted to allow the serial stream to become active again. Hopefully in the future this can be changed by Link so that the serial stream is reactivated upon laptop disconnect. If there is interest and the forum allows, I could possibly make and sell a plug-and-play Bluetooth solution for the Link G4+. Cost would likely be just a little more than the Perfect Tuning adapter. Here is a video of my dash on a “cold start” – Powered up and connected in less than 10 seconds. Realdash can be set to allow the tablet to sleep when charge power is killed from the tablet. It works well as a OEM style dash and I don’t need to manually touch the tablet at all. This is what the inside of the PT BT adapter looks like. Blue = 5v Orange = GND Grey = RX Yellow = TX
  8. 2 points
    Example of how this could be done on a G4X using Aux 1 as the tacho output, anv 1 as the oil pressure and DI1 as the switch Tacho as gauge.pclx
  9. 2 points
    A little update. This issue has come back where the car will be idle'ing perfectly fine and all of the sudden the car just shuts off. I've noticed a few things as I was watching the computer while the issues occurred. In my most recent occurrence the car would hit ECT of 180, go rich and die out. I initially thought it was something to do with my post start but didnt make complete sense as the car was out of Post Start. Then checked Warm-Up Enrichment. This was my next logical progression as the car might be looking for a little fuel adjustment? so I copied my values from the cells where the car was idle'ing fine but no change to the dying at 180degrees ECT. This didn't make complete sense bc the car was dying rich and copying over cells from the warm-up map would mean it'd be adding fuel. I was poking around in my fan settings and I that I had them set at 180 degrees (which is relatively low but I run a single 10" fan and I give it a little bit of a head start). I adjusted the engine fan activation temp up to 190d and the going-rich and dying out followed the 190d temperatures I set the fans to. What was strange the Link has Fan #1, Fan #2, and Fan #3. While OEM only has Fan #1 and #2 but the car would die even if Fan #3 was trigger by the ECT rising. Did a little poking around, unplugged the fan, and the go rich and dying continued. Back in the PCLink Software (embarrassingly, right in front of my face) my Idle Gain Trim was set to 2ms for the engine fan. The fan activation temp would activate the fan and the Idle Gain would add 2ms of additional fuel, run my mixture rich and it'd kill the engine. I set the idle gain trim to zero and the engine idles like you'd expect.
  10. 2 points
    I don't have any experience with that particular motor but you should just need to connect your trigger 1 to the crank sensor (I assume the 1.8vvt motor has a crank trigger unlike the earlier 1.6 with cam sensors only) and trigger 2 to your cam sensor. Connect an aux (one of aux1-10, aux ign5-8 or aux inj5-8) and a switched power wire to the vvt solenoid. That should be all you need to do specifically for the vvt wiring. You might have to add wires to the loom for inj3&4 to run sequential fuel as they are connected to the ECU header but the earlier vehicles don't use them and so might not have wires connected to those pins. Other than that have a look through the plugin pinout and the loom in your car to make sure you have all the wires you need to do what you want, you may even be able to use another pin like aux7 (purge) for your vvt control instead of adding an expansion loom. One final note, the factory wiring for the early mx5s has the MAF turning on the Fuel pump so you may want to rewire that.
  11. 2 points
    Adamw

    AVCS

    No, I used to think the same - it would be easier to use MAP for the VVT load axis as then it has more relationship to your VE table and it would then be easier to account for the change in VE due to cam position. But, as I have been doing more VVT recently I have learnt that theory is not true and it is better to use TP for the VVT load axis. The reason is that cam timing significantly affects the MAP, so if you have MAP as an axis on your VVT table, then in some situations you get the cam becoming unstable bouncing backwards and forwards because it is both affecting MAP and controlled by MAP.
  12. 2 points
    dx4picco

    Ignition Corrections

    4D ignition table with gear as one axis.
  13. 2 points
    Rossobianconero

    Target afr protection

    I work with a lot of race cars, and usually my aproach is to leave it to the driver, I dont wont to shutdown the engine in the final corner if he is fighting for the championship, I leave that to him or her to decide, in that case the best way is a Dash, and make different alarms, he or her can decide what to do and when. In those car I just make corrections to try keep everything undercontrol if something goes wrong. If is not that series the competition then aggresive protections is a good way to save the engine. If you just need to turn on a light to warn the driver, you can use aux that under over X afr and X amount of load turn the light.
  14. 2 points
    orlando bello

    Engine protection

    Would like to have more gp protection rpm limits tables. Not only rpm limit but also warnings under conditions.warning pop up on dash .
  15. 2 points
    Ducie54

    Target afr protection

    A basic setup but you get the idea.
  16. 2 points
    Thanks guys for the quick response! I have to say the help documentation is some of the best I've ever seen for a bit of control equipment. Keep it up!
  17. 2 points
    Confused

    cut at 5k rpm (log inside )

    Also, if you press the H key on your keyboard, that will enable colours on the table - these sharp transitions should stick out like a sore thumb, as you'll not get a nice smooth gradient, but a sharp transition from green to red in this case.
  18. 2 points
    Adamw

    GM IAT Sensor Calibration on V44

    The GM sensor uses the same calibration as the link sensor so you dont need to change anything. If you are still getting a t2 @ 5V error that means the ecu is not seeing any sensor connected (open circuit). It could be a bad connection or dead sensor. You can confirm the sensor is good with a multimeter, it should measure around 3000-3500ohms at typical room temperature.
  19. 2 points
    You are correct, spark duration and arc duration are the same thing. In your case this setting may only just start to come into play a high rpm. The spark duration setting usually only comes in to play when you have a distributor with single coil and more than 4 cylinders. It is used to shorten the dwell at high RPM when there is not enough time to both charge the coil and spark for the full duration. As an example think of a V8 with a distributor running at 6000RPM. At 6000RPM one engine cycle (two crank revs) takes 20ms. All 8 cylinders have to fire in that time. Lets say your coil needs 2ms of dwell to charge and the spark lasts for 1.0ms. You have to do that 8 times in those 2 revolutions, 8 x 3ms = 24ms - but wait - you only have 20ms to do that in? The ECU cant do anything about the spark so if it knows how long the spark needs and there is not enough time then it can shorten the dwell to make everything fit into the time that is available. A rotary in direct spark mode at 8000RPM will have 7.5ms of cycle time to charge and spark. So if you have a spark duration of 2.9ms that leaves you with about 4.6ms for dwell. You generally dont need much more than 3ms on those coils unless very high boost or Methanol. With it set at 2.0ms now is not a big problem because as you can see it is quite likely you are not running into cycle time issues anyway.
  20. 2 points
    Adamw

    Knock strategy with sequential gearbox

    Here's a quick video to give you an example. Gear shift knock.mp4
  21. 2 points
    You can connect both 5v and 12v sensors (and VR sensors etc that have varying voltage output) all to the same sensor ground. The reason to chose 1 type of ground over another is not input voltage, but more: 1) how stable does the signal need to be for the engine to run well (crank trigger = really important, any of the temp sensors = not a big issue if the signal bounces around a few percent). And as part of this, will a ground offset cause an incorrect reading that still looks legit. (eg voltage offset on any analog sensor) 2) How much load is expected to go through the ground circuit. eg do not use a sensor ground as the ground side for a vtec solenoid or anything like that. As long as everything on the sensor grounds is low *current* then adding a flex fuel sensor to sensor ground wouldnt hurt, and generally anything that is an ECU *input* you would lean towards putting on the sensor ground circuits. But if you do see issues that seem like sensor noise once you add it, you can probably move the flex sensor to use a direct ground and not see too many issues. These dont report an analog output anyway so should work just fine with slightly noisy voltage/ground.
  22. 2 points
    Brad Burnett

    AEM Water/Meth Boost Safe

    Can wire that wire into a digital input on the ecu. Then could configure the ecu to change boost, timing, and fuel values when that is active.
  23. 2 points
    TechDave

    Fuel film modelling in G4X line

    Accel fuel has been changed to a simplified X-Tau model
  24. 2 points
    Ducie54

    G4x Base map

    Is it possible to have a Math block drop down box with the maths all ready worked out?
  25. 2 points
    TechDave

    G4x Base map

    @Ducie54 I get that if I haven't turned on a fuel mode yet. Switch on a fuel mode and you get it, I'll add a note to the engineers to show a message "no fuel mode selected...blah blah etc"
  26. 2 points
    Simon

    MR2/ST205 and Knock

    Highly likely.
  27. 2 points
    I think with engine temps of 10°C and 94% ethanol you are going to struggle with cold start and there will be little you can do from a tune perspective to help. The vapour pressure of straight ethanol is very low so there will barely be any vapor in the port at that temp no matter how much fuel you dump in, it will just remain as liquid. Somewhere below around 10°C there is not enough vapor produced to support combustion. This is the reason why pump E85 gets reduced to E60-E70 in winter so there is a little more of the volitile solvents available to create some vapor in the port. In regions like Brazil etc where they predominantly use straight ethanol it is common to use heated injectors to get around the problem.
  28. 2 points
    Yep sounds like you got it. Here's a quick demo: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPqylX67m5Oo57-JVv?e=t3SK3f
  29. 2 points
    Ok, all the CAN is done, I havent added any of the new channels to displays or whatever but they should now be available. I have kept all the channel names pretty much as per the BPM datasheet. The only one that is a bit ambiguous is Fuel level. He has used 2 bytes like it is expected to cover a large range of numbers but then says the range is only 0-53L. Just one byte can do up to 255 and 2 Bytes is capable of 65000. So I suspect he might be sending it as "0.1L" rather than whole Litres but that is not clear. If your fuel level says "500 Litres" when you have it all working then set the scalar to 0.1. Marvin-LinkG4UpdatedV2Port2CAN Adam.aemcd7
  30. 2 points
    hexdmy

    tps and MAP accel fueling together

    Bumping this topic... I'm surprised no one else has interest in this. OEM systems I have worked with do this, and it makes sense. At low throttle openings, a change of throttle angle is a better trigger for transient fueling than map for engines that have low / noisy idle vacuum. However, at steady throttle angles, on a turbo engine, as the boost builds, there can be a need for additional fueling, otherwise you get a lean spike. I've noticed this when tuning steady state and then doing transient sweeps, if you tune to the sweep, you get a inverse V in your fuel map. Certainly this is not reinventing the wheel, just doing what the OEM's have already been doing for many years, and for good reason.
  31. 2 points
    Yes, Spartan has a termination resistor built in and it is enabled by default. I would use the Spartan in its default mode, use 1Mb/s and 1024 as ID. Use the attached stream definition. From the testing I have performed, the Spartan doesn't actually work in Link mode, the stream appears to be incorrect. (you would have needed to log in via serial bluetooth to change the mode/ID to Link CAN Lambda mode) HTH, Richard. Spartan3ADVDefaultMode.lcs
  32. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    Thunder lambda wiring - 12v

    Here are some measurements from a single 4.9 Lambda sensor running on a Thunder on the bench. The maximum the sensor drew was 1.43A at the end of the heating phase
  33. 2 points
    Adamw

    RPM 65535

    No, the dwell scatter is a symptom of a trigger error. It means the ECU isnt receiving the regular tooth pattern that it expects from the trigger. As I said earlier, the quickest way to find your problem is to get an oscilloscope capture of the triggers - preferably when it is playing up. The Oscilloscope will show us what is wrong with the waveform and this will usually give you some strong clues what is causing it. Do not waste time changing random parts - there could be many hundreds of different scenarios. Your logs show the ECU is not happy with the trigger so you need to start by diagnosing what it is about the trigger signal that the ECU it is not happy about.
  34. 2 points
    Sorry I haven't logged in for ages. Have just seen your comments are re-uploaded photos, should all be good now.
  35. 2 points
    I see, I wish that it would always ask if I wanted to load write the changes to the ecu, no matter how large. Because when it just loads the config out of the ecu and doesn't notify about anything, it's easy to think there were not any changes in the tune file. Then you carry on, tuning the config loaded from the ecu, until you realize there is no filename associated with the open tune file. Then you have to open the old file and see what's different, plus the changes you've recently made to the config file that was automatically loaded.... I've lost a good bit of time this way. If it's not possible for PCLink to ask if you want to load a tune with large differences, there should at least be a dialog that notifies what's going on (tune uploaded from ECU is replacing the open tune).
  36. 2 points
    Simon

    S15 plug in

    Jump on and download the PC link tuning software. The help file will have 99% of your questions covered.
  37. 2 points
    Adamw

    Link monsoon wiring

    I think I would avoid that, it looks very suspicious. Look at the main connector, it is missing the housing and looks like the wires are attached directly to the pins??
  38. 2 points
    Adamw

    ECU Unlock fails

    Someone has done a typo by the looks, The last two characters should be b7, not 67.
  39. 2 points
    Would be nice to be able to see at a glance if edits were additions or subtractions since last marker reset. Say on fuel table you add to a cell than the cell turns blue and if you subtracted the cell turns red.
  40. 2 points
    On my setup I use a 3d table to PWM an engine water pump. After a lot of testing I found using the temp output from the radiator and ECT the best way to control the pump. Takes into account out side temp and vechile speed. Would recommend you try that way to control the thermostat. Ive also connected a 2nd Digital output to the same soild state relay as an override. So if I'm at a set TPS or boost range the pump goes to 100%. After a bit of testing during different conditions I can keep the ECT within 2deg in all situations.
  41. 2 points
    Adamw

    MINI LINK G4+ Borg Warner Speed sensor

    I drew this circuit for someone the other day. I havent tested it myself with a turbospeed sensor so no guarantees but I have used a similar circuit to divide a wheel speed frequency down. Over here you can buy the 4024 binary counter for about $1.50 from Jaycar so I assume they should be easy to find anywhere.
  42. 2 points
    Richard Hill

    programmable logic

    I moved away from using generic dash as it employs a compound CAN message, which can be a bit of a mouthful for both the ECU sending and the device receiving. I prefer to use messages which are split over several CAN IDs such as transmit generic dash 2. The only problem with Generic Dash 2 is there's appears to be a bug in the non driven wheel speed (1 byte assigned, but shows as 0-1000kph, guess the text was copied from generic dash). Not a problem though if you aren't planning on going more than 158 MPH...
  43. 2 points
    Another way to work around the missing inputs on the Thunder (or to divide an input frequency down on other ECUs) is to use a CMOS 4018 IC. No external components required and can be powered from the ECUs +5 Volt supply. To divide by 10, the inverted Q5 output is fed back into the data input pin. I used this last week to divide by 8 on a fury (I fed back the inverted Q4 pin to data) Hope this helps, Richard.
  44. 2 points
    Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up. 1. Wiring Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference. 2. Initial settings Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band. Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees. Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting) 3. Cylinder balancing Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others. So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder. You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34 See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible. You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1. 4. Non knock noise levels Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too. The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine. According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha. So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want) Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle) Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global. Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too. Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock. At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock. Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want: Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine. So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working. From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me) Hopefully it all makes sense though Where are you based / what is the car used for? Keen to hear how you get on.
  45. 1 point
    Key-on option is not going to work if you have no fuel pressure. Your best solution would be to wire a signal from the starter solenoid to a DI so you can use the "Start position" option. Otherwise you can try increasing the crank enrichment instead. The "First crank enrich" happens as soon as the ecu sees the engine start to turn, remains active for one crank revolution, and is a multiplier on top of the crank enrich table so it should give you scope to get a fair bit more fuel in there. Also make sure the cells in the main fuel table that are in action during cranking are realistic as all enrichments are based on these.
  46. 1 point
    Richard Hill

    1994 sr20det to S15 LINK set up

    I think I made a link stream for the haltech wideband controller. I will have a look. Regards, Richard.
  47. 1 point
    Sidenote. Here is a car i had yesterday. Problem is a hydraulic lifter resulting in a short EVO duration. About where my markers are set. Care to guess what a conventional compression tester would have showed
  48. 1 point
    cj

    help for porsche 986 2.5

    So basic engine/idle theory... **assuming your trigger1 offset is correct** engine power output is from compressing & igniting fuel + air. The more fuel + air you have in the cylinder, the more potential power. The ignition angle (ie "when" you ignite the mixture in the 360* cycle) determines how much of that potential power is actually created. In 95%+ of petrol/ethanol engines, you "control" the air intake, and the computer/carb adds an appropriate amount of fuel to match. To have a stable idle, the engine output power (torque) must equal the amount required to keep the engine turning over. Any less & it stalls, any more and the revs increase. So the 2 levers you have to pull to get a stable idle (at any rpm) are 1) how much air you let in 2) what ignition angle you fire the spark plugs at You are only changing #2 here, but it sounds like you have #1 a bit off vs the factory specs. 25* ignition at idle is quite high, so I suggest you need to increase the air flow at idle - either idle stop screw on the throttle, or increase the idle control settings in the ECU to allow more air. You will then see your idle jump up to higher rpm, and when you reduce the ignition table values it should come back down. I cant give you exact values, but typical factory ignition idle angles are usually in the 10-20* range, and in your case it sounds like the manual says 5*. You dont have to match this exactly as your idle numbers can also differ from factory, but its usually a reasonable starting point. You are extremly unlikely to have knock or other spark related damage at idle speeds, so there is no real "dangerous" ignition number for idle, its just what works well for your car. Knock only becomes an issue as the engine comes under mid-high load (note that low rpm can still be high load however when you press the throttle hard)
  49. 1 point
    Adamw

    Link G4+ with GaugeArt Gauge

    Try this, I got all of your list in there except battery volts. 190803Tune with Haltech CAN.pclr
  50. 1 point
    Adamw

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    Our base map is not set up in modelled mode so the fuel map is not VE, it is % of master fuel. As per the manual that comes with it you need to adjust the master fuel when trying to start it. Do the cam angle test on each camshaft to confirm and set the offsets correctly on trig 2 VVT and DI2. Set the test pulse count to 3 for this test.
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