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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/19/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    TimmyD

    ''Laggy'' software

    At last, my graphics issues are fixed, despite having latest geforce drivers, it was the windows setting for text scaling, it needs to be 100%, not 125%.
  2. 4 points
    Hey people, Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well. I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode. With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily. Like so: Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear. Then flicked the first switch, did it again. Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values: Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km: Then from here, collated the results from each run. So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too. It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising) Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat.
  3. 3 points
    mapper

    Wire schematic

    Hi To speed up wiring and diagnostic I would like to have a function that outputs a list, a schematic, and a picture of the connectors with all labels of all configured (assigned) in- and outputs. On top of that many smart things could be implemented like an auto updated complete wiring schematic in an easy understandable format(e.g MS Visio style). These things can speed up install time and wiring a lot, which sets barrier lower to switch to a standalone ECU. possible examples attached.
  4. 3 points
    Brad Burnett

    Rev limit

    Glad you got it sorted out Idris. But if you would like to get better information from the members of the forum, it would help if you supplied a bit more information with your questions. Different engine combinations sometimes benefit from different settings. And with your rather vague post, there is not much to go on to give you good suggestions. I hope this helps with your further posts on this forum. Have a nice day.
  5. 2 points
    Hey, I think this might have been suggested before. But once you start to understand the wall wetting concept, it starts to explain a lot of other concepts which are described seperately in the current software. Example - accel enrichment compensates for changes in wall wetting, but in a fairly crude manner. Cold start cranking enrichment is essentially compensating for fuel film build up over the initial cranking period on a cold engine, and the long time period of "tau" on a cold motor. Fuel cut on decel doesnt really go into this, but if there was awareness of the fuel film depleting during this period then "accel enrichment" would naturally increase again after decel fuel cut. It feels like if this was modelled many of the other enrichment features etc could be done away with or minimised. Here's a great article on it. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/xtau.htm
  6. 2 points
    Simon

    06 wrx g4+ CL Lambda issue

    Would need to check the lambda average reading, The lambda target table will also need to be set up to suit.
  7. 2 points
    Brad Burnett

    flex fuel

    I would suggest the content sensor as it will compensate for varying ethanol contents. Pump E85 is not always 85%, it can be all over the place.
  8. 2 points
    He is running 36-1 multitooth / missing then he needs to have only 1 home tooth. If he had been running with the stock 4 tooth wheel it would be okay in the "Ford Cosworth rs500" mode.
  9. 2 points
    mapper

    Closed Loop fuel trims

    Regarding Lambda control error correction table. I spend alot of time to tune these. The base map is adjusted the wrong way around. Because the error correction tables is a % corretion of actual error, you want big corrections like 15% on small errors (0.03 lambda error) and small correction (like 5%) at the biggest error on the table. This is because a fuel film built up first in the ports when big correction are applied. This means it needs several burn cycles to get the whole change applied and measured. This means lambda control applies big changes two or three times for big corrections which leads to Lambda oscillation. On small changes fuel film built up is much less. Lambda change is done and measured much faster and within same burn cycle. This means the Lambda correction can be set much higher, because the change in AFR is measured instant. I have attached a tuned example.
  10. 2 points
    Simon

    Start Up Momentary Switch Wiring

    Starter Control Starter Control provides ECU managed operation of the Starter Motor. There are two requirements for starter control to function: · A Digital Input Function must be setup as Start Position. This could be a conventional key activated ignition switch or a push button. and · An Auxiliary Output Function must be setup as Starter Solenoid. This output should be connected to starter solenoid relay. Starter Control Settings Start Switch Mode Selects the mode of starter control. Options available are: · OFF - No starter motor control by the ECU. · Test - Use for testing input/output functionality only. When Start Status is active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output. No other conditions are checked, this could potentially lead to starter damage, engine damage or personal injury if operated at the incorrect time. · Normal - Behaves the same way a typical vehicle starting system. The key is turned and the engine will crank until the key is released. However it offers the added protection of preventing the starter being engaged at a high engine speed and the option to disable starting if the vehicle is not in Park/Neutral or is immobilised. When the conditions specified for Deactivation RPM, Anti-theft Lockout and Neutral/Park Lockout are met AND Start Status is active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output. The auxiliary output will stay active until the Start Status turns off OR the the Deactivation RPM is reached. · Start/Stop - Allows the use of a single button for both starting and stopping the engine. When the engine is stalled, pressing the button will crank the motor over. Once the motor is running, pressing the button again will stall the engine. This mode is suitable for a single start/stop button on the handle bar of a motorbike or jet ski. When the conditions specified for Deactivation RPM, Anti-theft Lockout and Neutral/Park Lockout are met AND Start Status is active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output. The auxiliary output will stay active until the Start Status turns off OR the Deactivation RPM is reached. Once the engine is running, if the engine speed is above the Deactivation RPM AND the Start Status becomes active the ECU will apply a 100% Fuel and Ignition cut to the engine. · Touch Start - Allows a starter motor button (or key) that can be momentarily pressed to start the engine. The driver taps the button and the ECU will take care of starting the engine. Typical applications for Touch Start mode would be remote starting or a jet boat. When the conditions specified for Deactivation RPM, Anti-theft Lockout and Neutral/Park Lockout are met AND Start Status is momentarily active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output until the Max Crank Time is met or the Deactivation RPM is reached. As of firmware version 5.5.6, pressing the start button again while the engine is running will stop the engine. Starter Deactivation RPM Specifies the engine speed (RPM) above which the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output turns OFF. Use Anti-theft Lockout An option to make the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output conditional upon Anti-theft status. If set to Yes and Anti Theft Status is Active the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output will not function. Use Neutral/Park Lockout An option to make the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output conditional upon Neutral/Park status. If set to Yes and Neutral/Park Status is OFF the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output will not function. Max Crank Time Used only on Touch Start Start Switch Mode, this is the maximum amount of time the starter will be allowed to crank if the engine does not start. Starter control Examples Example 1: Normal Mode with Anti-theft Assume Starter Control is set up as: Start Switch Mode = Normal Starter Deactivation RPM = 600 RPM Use Anti-theft Lockout = Yes Use Neutral/Park Lockout = No With the above settings the ECUs Starter Control would activate the starter motor if: · Engine speed is less than 600, and · The anti-theft signal is off and · The driver presses the start button (or turns the key). Example 2: Start / Stop Mode with Neutral / Park Lockout Assume Starter Control is set up as: Start Switch Mode = Start / Stop Starter Deactivation RPM = 550 RPM Use Anti-theft Lockout = No Use Neutral/Park Lockout = Yes With the above settings the ECUs Starter Control would activate the starter motor if: · Engine speed is less than 550, and · The Park/Neutral signal is active and · The driver presses the start/stop button. With the above settings the ECU would apply a 100% cut to both fuel and ignition if: · Engine speed is greater than 550, and · The driver presses the start/stop button. Note: The fuel and ignition cut will remain until engine speed is zero RPM.
  11. 2 points
    Hi everyone, Well the FORUM pages certainly look a bit prettier than before. I am still alive and still having good and bad days. However on my good days i still try to support LINK/ViPEC customers and do a little tuning. I also spend some time configuring and sorting issues for customers and friends. Not sure if this has already been sorted but i have decided to make the post anyway due to sorting the issue testing and proving it works on Friday just past. CAN BUS settings for both G4+/iSERIES ECU and MoTeC C SERIES COLOUR DASHES. Please find attached sample PCL for G4+ using a FURY and MoTeC comms config files etc for C Series colour dashes. Any issues please advise. Special thanks to my friend Mohammed from PCG (Pro Car Garage) in Saudi Arabia for testing my files as i had no dash to test on. Simon and Adam if already done please delete. This has been tested and is all working perfectly, there are a lot of parameters in my template, still room for a lot more to be added. Regards Dave. LINK G4+ with MoTeC C125 ETC_CANBUS CONFIG..c125v60 LINK G4+_ MoTeC C125 DASH ETC.CC8 G4+ Fury_ MoTeC C125 SERIES DASH CAN BUS CONFIG.pclr
  12. 2 points
    MarcD

    MX5 Fuel pump always on

    closing this out for the last time! for MX5 NA 1989 1.6 I got a heap of those connectors from Mouser. I rewired fuel pump to be on Aux 5. I wired the purge solenoid back up to Aux 7 and now use the purge solenoid as a cold start air device - small air filter on one opening, other to the inlet manifold, and solenoid activated below 40C. works a treat! also had the separate questions around the AF gauge and where to tap the 12V feed from to only be on when engine is running. Wanted this as when downloading big ECU logs, or fiddling with link, the ECU needs to be on for a while but not engine running, which meant in the old configuration, the AF sensor heater was also on - not good for longevity. Turns out the correct wire is the Blue/Red on the fuel pump relay (yellow re;ay and connector) up above the accelerator. hope this helps someone else in future!
  13. 2 points
    C.A.M.

    SUZUKI K6A No-VVT Trigger Issue

    Hi Adamw-san,Thank you for your advice! I tried the trigger settings of SUZUKI Swift ZC32S. The measurement of engine speed with "G4+ Plugin HC96+" became stable and showing correct value!!! This is something like "Hello (LINK) world!" for me.Thank you, C.A.M.
  14. 2 points
    brettr

    link g4+ ethrottle and idle

    Hi Adam, Just to close this off i spent a lot of time trying everything to catch the stall - as i said the gain and anti stall did zip from max to min values. It really needed a dashpot style fall to idle - which when ethrottle is setup the hold table is removed. I managed to create a vitual dashpot using a virtual auxillary triggering a timer and that timer controlling a slowed return to idle using the 3D idle table. Works very well and might be something others could use if they have a similar problem. My engine has a very light flywheel and two charger bypasses and 550cc under runner injectors, big cam, remote ethrottle body, head flowed to hell and back etc etc etc all on a 1565cc engine so the combination is probably hard to tune but this made it very well behaved. Have attached the tune in case anyone else has a similar problem. Thanks again Adam and please pass on thanks to the engineers, support etc as the g4+ really is excellent. BR Renault R8 with v-dashpot.pclr
  15. 2 points
    TnF

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.5.3338b Released

    It's been a long time since the last firmware update.. Are we getting something soon with maybe some of the requested features?
  16. 2 points
    I see just over 5 KPA pressure drop as an example. I find the pressure slope of the turbosmart 1200 to be very good, that's what I use. I would try a better quality fuel pressure regulator and rewire the fuel pump using a realy close to the pump with large gauge wiring.
  17. 2 points
    Hi agree that there is some space for improvements on Accel enrich. If you enrich enought that you don't see a lean spike at the begining of rappid TP change, AFR's goes usually to low. Even if you set decay rate to 100% and enrich only on one event. I can only explain that with fuel film which is built up during extra accel enrichment injection which is then sucked aways on the follow engine cycles, because flow goes up with RPM. Some kind of asynchron enrichment may help to built up a fuel film. Or a full fuel film modell.
  18. 2 points
    Brad Burnett

    Tape that came with ECU

    static ground strap for when fitting plugin board into the factory case. one end wraps around your wrist and the other is stuck to the metal work bench that you are working on.
  19. 2 points
    SacramentoTech

    No spark on 350Z ECU in G35

    Well, I'd like to start off by saying sorry for being such a duma$$... Next, I'd like to thank those that worked with me finding things to try and get my car to run... It runs now... Apparently you can't FULLY trust an FSM, even straight from the manufacturer. I followed the directions for installing the cam sprockets, but the RevUp information is very limited... The images specifically tell you to install the exhaust cam gear 180 off. lol. So I did. After taking it all apart, I realized my error. Got it corrected, reassembled it all, then forgot one stupid hidden ground wire so I had no spark again. Fixed that, now she runs super smooth... Can't wait to get the burn in done and get on the road!
  20. 2 points
    Adamw

    Vehicle speed issue

    It looks to me like the DASH2Pro CAN stream sends "non-driven" wheel speed so your setup above should have worked ok. No harm in trying what Simon suggests though and assign both driven and non driven to the same wheel. Also check in the Dash2Pro config that the speed display is looking for "non-GPS" speed: In the Dash2Pro CAN config, make sure the ECU speed channel is enabled and also make sure you dont have more than 15 channels enabled:
  21. 2 points
    Niklas Sandstrom

    BMW S65 V8 Trigger Mode

    Its the same trigger pattern. Im running two cars with this engine S65B40 and Link Extreme.
  22. 2 points
    Adamw

    Piggy Back ECU Config

    To give a little more info... There are many different scenario's or reasons for a piggy back type install but typically it is done where the aftermarket ECU cannot properly control or duplicate some function that the OEM ecu has. This would most commonly be features such as automatic transmission control, cruise control/DBW, or CAN comms to other modules in the vehicle such as the instrument cluster. The OEM ecu would typically only be left with the bare minimum function it needs to control, all other engine control will be done by the aftermarket ECU. The problem with many modern OEM ECU's is they have many saftey and diagnostic strategies built in that detect when for instance the injectors are disconnected. This means the installer needs to be very familiar with how the OEM system works so he can work out a method to "fool it" into thinking everything is connected and happy. Piggyback installs are often very difficult to get right and should only be attempted by a very competent installer.
  23. 2 points
    Andre@HPA

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi Grant, In case my user name didn't give it away, I'm Andre from HPA We went down the path of online training because it allows us to help more people all around the world, and we firmly believe that it offers significant advantages to in-person training. It's a cost effective option since you don't need to travel, and you also have the advantage of being able to re-watch our courses as many times as you like. This means you can brush up on concepts that you're not clear on, or revisit concepts that you've perhaps forgotten since initially taking the course. The key to our courses though is our support community which is where we bridge the gap between online and in-person training - We believe strongly in supporting our members and this is where our private online forum and our regular weekly webinars help back up the course material. The forum is the perfect place to get fast and reliable answers to your questions, while our weekly webinars are the fastest way to expand your tuning knowledge on a range of engines and platforms, as well as staying up to date with the latest technologies. I couldn't agree more with Ben's comment about the requirement at some point to transition into hands-on experience and that's exactly why we developed our 'remote practice dyno' where you can get real world hands-on experience tuning a real engine on a real engine dyno without leaving your house. The online practice dyno is currently operating a Link G4+ Fury ECU which may be helpful to you given you're on this forum. You can find out more about the online practice dyno here: We understand that buying online education can be tricky and we want our members to be able to purchase with confidence which is why we also offer a 60 day, 100% money back guarantee - If for any reason you feel our courses aren't right for you, we will refund the full purchase price. If you're interested in getting a taste of what HPA is all about then I'd suggest you start by signing up for our free six-part series of lessons. This will give you some insight into how we work and what we can offer: https://www.hpacademy.com/free-tuning-lessons In the perfect world I believe the best solution is to get as much training as possible - Both in person and online. I found that when I was operating my own performance workshop however, that unless the in-person training was local, the cost of training staff in this way was usually prohibitive. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have
  24. 2 points
    Scott

    g4 tablet dash

    You can configure the look of PCLink however you like, but doing it on a tablet could be tricky. One solution would be to design your layout on a laptop/PC, save the layout file (Layout > Save Layout File As..) and then email it to the tablet and then open it in PCLink on the tablet. When it comes to actual design of the layout, you can add new pages by clicking Layout > New Page. You can add a gauge wherever you want one by right clicking in some available space and then selecting the gauge type you want.
  25. 1 point
    I wouldnt jump to that conclusion. If you want to diagnose a fuel mixture problem then you will need a lambda connected. Without that we are shooting in the dark. It might be more obvious to you as you can hear and see the engine running, but a log without that feedback is not very helpful. The S54 Ethrottle has 6 ITB's (return spring on each), the linkage is very non-linear at the initial opening and Engine vacuum seems to have a large effect on them (I suspect the butterfly shaft isnt centered so vacuum pulls them closed, maybe a safety feature?) It takes a lot of grunt to get open when there is high manifold vacuum. Our E-throttle hardware is a bit borderline for driving these and some guys have trouble even after removing some springs. This is normally the amount of throttle that the closed loop system is trimming the "E-throttle 1 target" to maintain the idle RPM target. In this log however it appears Idle speed control is not even working - the idle status shows "speed not selected", which usually means a speed lockout is set up but there is no speed source. I dont know if he has changed the map after the log was taken or whether there is something odd going on.
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