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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/28/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    mapper

    Wire schematic

    Hi To speed up wiring and diagnostic I would like to have a function that outputs a list, a schematic, and a picture of the connectors with all labels of all configured (assigned) in- and outputs. On top of that many smart things could be implemented like an auto updated complete wiring schematic in an easy understandable format(e.g MS Visio style). These things can speed up install time and wiring a lot, which sets barrier lower to switch to a standalone ECU. possible examples attached.
  2. 3 points
    Hey people, Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well. I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D fuel, 5D fuel and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode. With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily. Like so: Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear. Then flicked the first switch, did it again. Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values: Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km: Then from here, collated the results from each run. So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too. It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising) Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat.
  3. 3 points
    Brad Burnett

    Rev limit

    Glad you got it sorted out Idris. But if you would like to get better information from the members of the forum, it would help if you supplied a bit more information with your questions. Different engine combinations sometimes benefit from different settings. And with your rather vague post, there is not much to go on to give you good suggestions. I hope this helps with your further posts on this forum. Have a nice day.
  4. 2 points
    Hey, I think this might have been suggested before. But once you start to understand the wall wetting concept, it starts to explain a lot of other concepts which are described seperately in the current software. Example - accel enrichment compensates for changes in wall wetting, but in a fairly crude manner. Cold start cranking enrichment is essentially compensating for fuel film build up over the initial cranking period on a cold engine, and the long time period of "tau" on a cold motor. Fuel cut on decel doesnt really go into this, but if there was awareness of the fuel film depleting during this period then "accel enrichment" would naturally increase again after decel fuel cut. It feels like if this was modelled many of the other enrichment features etc could be done away with or minimised. Here's a great article on it. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/xtau.htm
  5. 2 points
    Hi everyone, Well the FORUM pages certainly look a bit prettier than before. I am still alive and still having good and bad days. However on my good days i still try to support LINK/ViPEC customers and do a little tuning. I also spend some time configuring and sorting issues for customers and friends. Not sure if this has already been sorted but i have decided to make the post anyway due to sorting the issue testing and proving it works on Friday just past. CAN BUS settings for both G4+/iSERIES ECU and MoTeC C SERIES COLOUR DASHES. Please find attached sample PCL for G4+ using a FURY and MoTeC comms config files etc for C Series colour dashes. Any issues please advise. Special thanks to my friend Mohammed from PCG (Pro Car Garage) in Saudi Arabia for testing my files as i had no dash to test on. Simon and Adam if already done please delete. This has been tested and is all working perfectly, there are a lot of parameters in my template, still room for a lot more to be added. Regards Dave. LINK G4+ with MoTeC C125 ETC_CANBUS CONFIG..c125v60 LINK G4+_ MoTeC C125 DASH ETC.CC8 G4+ Fury_ MoTeC C125 SERIES DASH CAN BUS CONFIG.pclr
  6. 2 points
    MarcD

    MX5 Fuel pump always on

    closing this out for the last time! for MX5 NA 1989 1.6 I got a heap of those connectors from Mouser. I rewired fuel pump to be on Aux 5. I wired the purge solenoid back up to Aux 7 and now use the purge solenoid as a cold start air device - small air filter on one opening, other to the inlet manifold, and solenoid activated below 40C. works a treat! also had the separate questions around the AF gauge and where to tap the 12V feed from to only be on when engine is running. Wanted this as when downloading big ECU logs, or fiddling with link, the ECU needs to be on for a while but not engine running, which meant in the old configuration, the AF sensor heater was also on - not good for longevity. Turns out the correct wire is the Blue/Red on the fuel pump relay (yellow re;ay and connector) up above the accelerator. hope this helps someone else in future!
  7. 2 points
    C.A.M.

    SUZUKI K6A No-VVT Trigger Issue

    Hi Adamw-san,Thank you for your advice! I tried the trigger settings of SUZUKI Swift ZC32S. The measurement of engine speed with "G4+ Plugin HC96+" became stable and showing correct value!!! This is something like "Hello (LINK) world!" for me.Thank you, C.A.M.
  8. 2 points
    brettr

    link g4+ ethrottle and idle

    Hi Adam, Just to close this off i spent a lot of time trying everything to catch the stall - as i said the gain and anti stall did zip from max to min values. It really needed a dashpot style fall to idle - which when ethrottle is setup the hold table is removed. I managed to create a vitual dashpot using a virtual auxillary triggering a timer and that timer controlling a slowed return to idle using the 3D idle table. Works very well and might be something others could use if they have a similar problem. My engine has a very light flywheel and two charger bypasses and 550cc under runner injectors, big cam, remote ethrottle body, head flowed to hell and back etc etc etc all on a 1565cc engine so the combination is probably hard to tune but this made it very well behaved. Have attached the tune in case anyone else has a similar problem. Thanks again Adam and please pass on thanks to the engineers, support etc as the g4+ really is excellent. BR Renault R8 with v-dashpot.pclr
  9. 2 points
    TnF

    [UPDATE] PCLink 5.6.5.3338b Released

    It's been a long time since the last firmware update.. Are we getting something soon with maybe some of the requested features?
  10. 2 points
    Hi agree that there is some space for improvements on Accel enrich. If you enrich enought that you don't see a lean spike at the begining of rappid TP change, AFR's goes usually to low. Even if you set decay rate to 100% and enrich only on one event. I can only explain that with fuel film which is built up during extra accel enrichment injection which is then sucked aways on the follow engine cycles, because flow goes up with RPM. Some kind of asynchron enrichment may help to built up a fuel film. Or a full fuel film modell.
  11. 2 points
    Brad Burnett

    Tape that came with ECU

    static ground strap for when fitting plugin board into the factory case. one end wraps around your wrist and the other is stuck to the metal work bench that you are working on.
  12. 2 points
    SacramentoTech

    No spark on 350Z ECU in G35

    Well, I'd like to start off by saying sorry for being such a duma$$... Next, I'd like to thank those that worked with me finding things to try and get my car to run... It runs now... Apparently you can't FULLY trust an FSM, even straight from the manufacturer. I followed the directions for installing the cam sprockets, but the RevUp information is very limited... The images specifically tell you to install the exhaust cam gear 180 off. lol. So I did. After taking it all apart, I realized my error. Got it corrected, reassembled it all, then forgot one stupid hidden ground wire so I had no spark again. Fixed that, now she runs super smooth... Can't wait to get the burn in done and get on the road!
  13. 2 points
    Adamw

    Vehicle speed issue

    It looks to me like the DASH2Pro CAN stream sends "non-driven" wheel speed so your setup above should have worked ok. No harm in trying what Simon suggests though and assign both driven and non driven to the same wheel. Also check in the Dash2Pro config that the speed display is looking for "non-GPS" speed: In the Dash2Pro CAN config, make sure the ECU speed channel is enabled and also make sure you dont have more than 15 channels enabled:
  14. 2 points
    Niklas Sandstrom

    BMW S65 V8 Trigger Mode

    Its the same trigger pattern. Im running two cars with this engine S65B40 and Link Extreme.
  15. 2 points
    Adamw

    Digital Input State Via CAN

    Ok attached are a couple of files. The .lcs is a configurable version of our "generic dash stream", it has been modified a bit (the 8 knock channels have been removed). I have added DI2 status to the end of it so hopefully you can see how it is done. The .xc1 file is a matching custom CAN config for race studio 3. The Link end I think is easy enough to work out by trial and error. The AIM end is not quite so intuitive so I will post a couple of pics to explain the basics: Click the custom CAN button, then import, then browse for the .xc1 file: Once that is imported you can right click on it and select "open this custom can for editing" and you will get a screen like below with the whole message format showing. If you look down at the last frame you will see the DI2 status that I have added. If you double click on those DI2 bytes it will bring up an edit screen which is where you set the start bit, length, scaling etc. Have a play yourself, if you cant get it to work then reply here with the channels you need and I will try to set something up for you. Configurable Generic Dash - modified with DI2.lcs LINK_G4+ Generic + DI_@20170524_021339_007952.xc1
  16. 2 points
    I always tune RB26's with TPS as the main fuel load table. I even use it as the main load on the ignition table with a 4d map for boost correction. I find it makes them much snappier. You are getting fairly low in the injector pulsewidth at idle. It is possible that the dynamics of your particular injectors are not consistent enough at that low of a pulsewidth. You could try to change the 1000 rpm cell at 5.8 psi in your Target AF table to 13.8 or so. If its a low pulsewidth issue this may stabilize it a bit. It seems to be maintaining idle fairly well in the log. Blaine Carmena Carmena Performance
  17. 2 points
    Adamw

    Data overlay on GoPro

    A quick copy/paste hack sorry... Showing OBDII socket connection to a plugin ECU using CANPCB & CANF.
  18. 2 points
    Oh hey! Havent been up to much with the car lately... I moved to the South Island to take a job in the motorsports industry, so funnily enough I actually ended up moving right near that track shown on the post above. It was awesome down there, but some life complications meant I needed to come back. Some interesting stuff has happened between now and the last time I posted though I guess... Firstly I had the windscreen smash which was fun! Then I competed through the time atttack series which was good fun, cut a little bit short by me moving away. But I was determined to make my "Street class" car as streetable as possible... Drove it to-from events and even used the car for camping near the events. At one of the events I had one of the outer injectors in my staged injection setup fail - due to a rusty fuel tank and blocked up fuel filter which obviously let some debris through. So I had to roadside retune the car back to primary injectors only, then set a new fastest lap once the engine was running right. Since then I switched to a Seimens 850cc "shorty" injector, this gives me more clearance to the bonnet which was needed. I made up some MSpaint style stickers for the numbers that I needed for the race series, also at the event furthest from home (about 6-7 hours drive) I ended up having the front universal joint in my driveshaft explode which sucked! Ended up getting towed all of the way home by some friends who unloaded their car off the trailer so I could get home. Which was much appreciated. On the ECU side of things, I've got a few changes to plan coming up. I have just been working through populating the table to run my tacho as a combined tacho and fuel economy meter, using virtual aux conditions to switch between them automatically depending on what the car is doing. So currently I am thinking that when RPM is between 2000 and 4000, rate of acceleration below (something) and speed is above say 60kph the tacho switches over to the fuel economy meter. I dont see a way to achieve this apart from wiring two auxiliary outputs to the same tacho input, and switching between them using virtual aux. But I've got some left over so that's fine. I also want to setup something using CAN, I have been meaning to double check the accuracy of my analog wideband input so I might kill two birds with one stone and buy the link Can wideband module some time soon. I've got a lot of DIs left over so will be looking at setting up wheel speed sensors as well, it will be interesting to see how much my LSD is slipping or locking under different circumstances. It will be interesting to have a play with the traction control system when this is setup, not that a car with this power level particularly needs it. Might come in handy on wet trackdays though! I saw a cool idea where someone was using a K type thermocouple dragging against a brake disc to measure brake temperatures. I've been meaning to get some temperature paint or similar to find out how hot the front gets, as I wear out brake pads quite quickly. So for sake of interest I might do something similar while I'm setting up wheel speed sensors. Or maybe even a K type just sitting against the brake pad, I guess that's really what you're trying to measure and prevent from overheating. It might also be fun to setup 4x EGT or 4x wideband, one for each runner but would look at doing this with a CAN based solution. Apart from that not much else going on, just driving the car and enjoying it. I like having the car NA and fairly simple but realistically for the time attack stuff I've been doing this means my car is mid pack at best. It's heeaapppss of fun though, with some great people and I still wince at the extra engine bay complication of forced induction. As the whole point of this car is to keep things simple. I have been having some thoughts lately about starting a new build using maybe a Suzuki cappucino or a Honda Beat. Just because they are awesome, and I like the gimmick of tiny cars. Both options will most likely be slower than my existing car haha. Maybe a Toyota MR-S or similar would be a more sensible starting point. (Or just go on holidays to Fiji etc instead and enjoy the car I've got!)
  19. 2 points
    Adamw

    Piggy Back ECU Config

    To give a little more info... There are many different scenario's or reasons for a piggy back type install but typically it is done where the aftermarket ECU cannot properly control or duplicate some function that the OEM ecu has. This would most commonly be features such as automatic transmission control, cruise control/DBW, or CAN comms to other modules in the vehicle such as the instrument cluster. The OEM ecu would typically only be left with the bare minimum function it needs to control, all other engine control will be done by the aftermarket ECU. The problem with many modern OEM ECU's is they have many saftey and diagnostic strategies built in that detect when for instance the injectors are disconnected. This means the installer needs to be very familiar with how the OEM system works so he can work out a method to "fool it" into thinking everything is connected and happy. Piggyback installs are often very difficult to get right and should only be attempted by a very competent installer.
  20. 2 points
    Andre@HPA

    EFI University or HPA?

    Hi Grant, In case my user name didn't give it away, I'm Andre from HPA We went down the path of online training because it allows us to help more people all around the world, and we firmly believe that it offers significant advantages to in-person training. It's a cost effective option since you don't need to travel, and you also have the advantage of being able to re-watch our courses as many times as you like. This means you can brush up on concepts that you're not clear on, or revisit concepts that you've perhaps forgotten since initially taking the course. The key to our courses though is our support community which is where we bridge the gap between online and in-person training - We believe strongly in supporting our members and this is where our private online forum and our regular weekly webinars help back up the course material. The forum is the perfect place to get fast and reliable answers to your questions, while our weekly webinars are the fastest way to expand your tuning knowledge on a range of engines and platforms, as well as staying up to date with the latest technologies. I couldn't agree more with Ben's comment about the requirement at some point to transition into hands-on experience and that's exactly why we developed our 'remote practice dyno' where you can get real world hands-on experience tuning a real engine on a real engine dyno without leaving your house. The online practice dyno is currently operating a Link G4+ Fury ECU which may be helpful to you given you're on this forum. You can find out more about the online practice dyno here: We understand that buying online education can be tricky and we want our members to be able to purchase with confidence which is why we also offer a 60 day, 100% money back guarantee - If for any reason you feel our courses aren't right for you, we will refund the full purchase price. If you're interested in getting a taste of what HPA is all about then I'd suggest you start by signing up for our free six-part series of lessons. This will give you some insight into how we work and what we can offer: https://www.hpacademy.com/free-tuning-lessons In the perfect world I believe the best solution is to get as much training as possible - Both in person and online. I found that when I was operating my own performance workshop however, that unless the in-person training was local, the cost of training staff in this way was usually prohibitive. I'm happy to answer any questions you may have
  21. 2 points
    Scott

    g4 tablet dash

    You can configure the look of PCLink however you like, but doing it on a tablet could be tricky. One solution would be to design your layout on a laptop/PC, save the layout file (Layout > Save Layout File As..) and then email it to the tablet and then open it in PCLink on the tablet. When it comes to actual design of the layout, you can add new pages by clicking Layout > New Page. You can add a gauge wherever you want one by right clicking in some available space and then selecting the gauge type you want.
  22. 1 point
    Adamw

    DBW Throttle on GTRLink Plugin

    Around 4A continuous for Aux9/10. We reports from a couple of users driving the S54 system reliably after removing 3 of the 7 springs. There is one spring on the motor & six on the ITBs.
  23. 1 point
    Adamw

    RPM limit dont match request

    We would need to see a log to confirm but I'm highly suspicious that your issue is trigger error. The Nissan 360 trigger works ok on relatively stock engines when all mechanical parts are in good condition, however they become much less useful in heavily modified engines, or when parts of the CAS drive become worn. Heavier valve springs, more aggressive cam shafts and extended/higher RPM means there is much more torsional vibration on the camshaft drive and since the "slots" are only 1 deg wide it doesnt take much of a "shake" to cause trigger error. If you want to run an RB engine to 9000RPM you should have a proper crank trigger. You may get away with one of the aftermarket "24 slot" discs but really they are still not ideal.
  24. 1 point
    Simon

    Additional boost trim tables

    Hi Llewellyn Development will continue on the G4+ for some time to come. But to keep improving in an electronic environment there will always be a point at which the platform has to be updated. The G4+ range is coming up on 4 years old now and I expect us to continue with it for some time to come (years not months) So don't panic the support is still there.
  25. 1 point
    orlando bello

    Link G4+ Tablet view

    windows 10 tablet . B4 and after .thanks for the awesome Link software.
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