motomattx

I had a similar problem when I bought a Continental sensor from Ebay, from supposedly a reliable seller and I paid good money for it, it ended up being a Chinese knockoff sensor, I ordered a real one from Summit Racing and have never had a problem since.

You fill in the modeled fuel table numbers yourself, there are many variables to each engines VE that would not make sense for a one size fits all approach, you have a few idle tables that you can use to make idle afr changes as well as cold start settings, but the main fuel table is where most changes in fuel in general are made.

If you tune was good before the switch you should be able to change the latency table, the injector size and minimum pulse width and it should run pretty good.

Maybe it has to do with having your pull up or pull down settings in your inputs?

You would use 500cc if thats what they flow at the pressure that you are going to run.

If you lived local I would give you a hand with it. I would imagine your soaking your plugs with fuel right?

An ect trim table would be a beautiful thing.

That would be hard for me to swallow, I like to be able to make adjustments here and there when I get the car out, but I do understand why someone would want to, I guess "protect" what they consider intellectual work, although it wouldn't be all that hard to datalog the car on a dyno and fill in the blanks as to what the timing map and fuel map actually are anyway.

Have you tried swapping your plug wires 1and 4 with 2and 3 to see if it will fire?

I think its your map, but we would need to see your map to decide that, I can tell you that E85 doesn't seem to like large jumps in ignition timing on my 4g63.

Your ignition timing is all over the place, your jumping like 30 degrees in a 500 rpm range.

In my experience a lot of the 4g63's do this, your likely in too high of a gear and are lugging the engine especially if you have aftermarket cams in it, I use overrun fuel cut as mentioned to make them stop doing that.

You understand that the turbo flutter that you describe is compressor surge and that compressor surge is damaging to a turbo?

Are you running gasoline or E85?

Ive had the same issue and figured it was something backfeeding for some reason, I now realize that I do run the newer software and have since it first came out so it could be an update issue, I just turned off the hold on the ecu to stop it because my check engine light would stay on permanently though very dimly and the ecu would not ever power down if I let the ecu fully cycle the fuel pump relay, if I turned the key off before it shut off the fuel pump by itself, the ecu would power down properly after a few seconds and after moving the idle control motor, if I let it stay on after fuel pump prime then the idle control motor would never move after key off and as I said the ecu would never actually power down, it keeps the control relay powered with less than 12v, I think I measured around 5v on the relay keep alive coil.