motomattx

I would suggest in the return line right after the fuel rail/regulator, that should give you the best indication of the true fuel temp reading. Some ethanol content sensors have the temp reading built in btw.

Bringing this back to ask if I could in theory tie my 4 aux injectors in series to my main injectors on the trigger side and then us a relay to only apply the 12v B+ to the secondary injectors under a certain level of map pressure so as to keep the aux injectors in sequenced mode but only use them when needed for the high map level of fuel? I do understand that I would have to lower the numbers in that part of the fuel map at the moment where the aux injectors are brought in of course.

That will work!

Is there a way to lock the G4+ ecu so as to render the car/ecu temporarily unusable for security reasons and then be able to log back in and make it driveable again quickly? I might have overlooked this already and it might be obvious but I dont off hand remember seeing it.

Another possibility is your timing light is goofing up.

Is there a way to make the text in these forums appear darker? its tough to see with the light background?

Could you have had hydraulic cam followers that took some time to bleed down? possibly holding an intake valve slightly open...

Are you certain that your injector dead times are correct?

In my experience with E85, they are typically harder to start when its cold or the car has sat for a week or so, I havent came upon a good fix yet, although I have tried a few different attempts, that being said the stock ecu had the same issues with E85 so its not just standalone having the problem, its possibly the injectors not atomizing the ethanol as well as the gasoline and the higher flash point and water intrusion that happens with ethanol.

You can retard your ignition as much as 20 degrees but I wouldnt go much farther than that and then add fuel enough to make flames if you really need to, but keep in mind that it can be hard on parts, including your turbo, exhaust manifold, and if your not careful it can cause valve to piston contact in some cases.

Most people would just rather have their car run clean and pull nice, this crap is why the import culture gets laughed at and not taken seriously, making noise and fire just to annoy people that dont want to hear your car or see your car making exhaust fire shouldnt be your main priority, try to go fast with some CLASS, that will get you the RIGHT kind of attention for a change.

On alcohol that could be a non issue, again it comes down to the mods, and the turbo size, some of those areas would never even be usable by my setup! He needs to run a map tracer so that we know what areas are actually being seen by the ecu, engine damage could have happened by any number of things in the past, an air leak or poor quality fuel etc can take pistons out, who knows. There are also areas in his tuned map that are less aggressive than the provided stock map so it comes down to input from him.

And another since I was bored and it was so nice out.

Depends on what fuel is being used also.

It doesnt look all that much more aggressive than the other one to me, the best thing you could do is to run a stock map and datalog your car so everyone can see what areas of the ignition and fuel map are in use, some areas almost never get touched.

I have ran a MR2 pump for about 5 years now, I dont use the factory controller which I do have, it is not built in to the pump assembly. I simply use the factory relay to turn it on and several large resistors (radiator fan type) to slow the motor down to a reasonable speed to save current draw and motor life, works fine no problems, enough assist in parking lots (your not going to one finger it with this setup) but not too much on the highway.

Thats detonation damage causing the rings to get pinched, what fuel were you running?

Throwing in a photo shoot of the ride since there is no place specified for photos of cars.

Want to say thanks to Link Engine Management for sponsoring the Dsm/Evo/Gtr shootout in Norwalk, OH back in August of this year, the turnout was great and I had no actual idea that there was going to be a Link dealer at the event, so it was a great surprise to see them not only there but they ended up parked beside us which was either a coincidence or on purpose, either way it was a great weekend!

I just noticed your post here, how far have you gotten?

Ok, thanks much!

Ok, its been a while since I have had the cover off of the ecu so my memory of it isnt great.

VR4 plug in, come to think of it though, I think I should already have the can inputs on the plug that I made to input the Ethanol sensor on?

Ok, so I just need the can cable then?

Gotcha! thanks. I was hoping that the new X series was much better, I checked the reviews and it won the wideband shootout so I said what the heck, I hadnt heard anything negative about them. I was wondering if the sensor was Bosch or not, all of the ones that I have had that are Bosch say Bosch right on the metal area of the sensor, this one didnt but the plastic on the plug had the bosch symbol on it? maybe just a Bosch plug but not sensor? This seems to clear things up some: https://www.aemelectronics.com/forum/question-about-genuine-bosch-lsu49-sensor