motomattx

From the data points provided by Aem in the manual it didnt look all that linear at first glance and if it is then why do they give 17 data points? also I guess what Im getting at is that i would like to be able to see lambda beyond 1.23 and it seem that is as far as I will be able to view with the AEM unit?

Is there any way to increase the Cal3 table resolution beyond the 16 or so columns that are provided? I would like my input from my wideband to be able to show more values than I currently can see. Its bad enough with the AEM already since they dont have any progamable outputs like the Innovate does, you would think that the X series being newer would have at least had the ability to display E85 on the gauge with its popularity, instead though all that can be displayed is either lambda or Gasoline afr's and not in the range that the Innovate can, and also no narrowband simulation output. Sillyness. Had I not needed a new wideband I would have stuck with the Innovate and all of its ground issues.

Yes accel enrichment.

It sounds like you might need to adjust either the injector latency/dead time (how sure are you that you have this right?) or the response fuel.

What mode are you running it in?

Methanol will rust your engine internals unless you plan to flush the engine after every run, that I can tell you.

Yes, you can build a circuit with a 7404 hex inverter if your so inclined, or use the 1g cas.

I do use tps instead of map, I think the idle could be better though That might be an idea, have you used it? Im kind of trying to cut back on the hunting/cycling of idle rpm as much as I can too.

Absolutely! I run the older one in my drag car, remember that the older cas is adjustable and you need to use a timing light to set the base timing after you install it and get it to run.

Im saying just the cam sensor was what worked for us over here in the states on our early 2g 7 bolt cars when we wanted to run the older ecu or the newer ecu and it sounds like what you might need to do, what seemed to work easily for us was to use the older 6 bolt cas which provides both the cam and crank signal for the ecu.

Im wondering if it could be a strategy to use a type of fuel cut strategy to get a decent idle when using big cams (288 and over)? my thought would be to set the actual throttle stop to get the car to idle around 2000-2500 rpm or so and then use fuel cut to keep the idle steady at around 1000 rpm, it seems that it might be a better way to go about getting idle to work with big cams and alcohol/big injectors, it seems that the car really doesnt get enough intake air using just the iac strategy also the iac doesnt really react quickly enough on most cars with big cams to prevent stalling or stumbling when coming down from high rpm, and even though it can mostly be worked out with fine adjustments it seems that this might be an easier way to go about it? maybe not.

I would guess that swapping the edges on the cam sensor would be the way, the crank sensor in the case of our 1g vs 95-96 (2ga) cars works ok, its just the cam sensor under the cam gear that is reversed, they went back to the 1g type of cam signal in 97-99 with the cam sensor being mounted back on the other end of the intake camshaft.

The 2ga style of cam sensors operate backwards from the 1g or 2gb cars do.

Make sure to do the tps calibration and the map sensor calibration.

Ahh, nice you guys think of everything! Im still used to how things were done on other systems which it seems now they were less feature prone.

I do run E85, and popping and jerking are usually a lean problem on E, you would have to run pretty rich to cause that behavior, but even so if richening it makes it worse simply go the other way with it until it cleans up.

Grounding those pins does nothing on the Link ecu as far as I know, just set all of your idle cells to like 5 degrees and set the ignition timing off of that and then check it again at higher speed such as 2k with everything around the 2k cells set to 5 degrees or so.

Just went through the same stuff setting mine up, the first few cells are likely too lean. Turn the ve map tracing on so you can see what cells are being used when its acting up and then richen those areas up a handful of cells at a time until the afr shows what your fuel map is targeting, I'm certainly not new to tuning having a 980 hp 2.0 litre 4g63 but I'm new to linkecu.

Have you tried using the coils from another car? I have known cdi boxes to damage coils in strange ways that are not always easily apparent.

7.6 to around 7.9 afr on E85 works well.

Just to update the thread in case someone else has the problem in the future, the sensors from the internet are likely to be 90% knock off junk that either dont work or wont read the proper level of ethanol, they look so close to the real thing that I could easily return the fake in the real GM/AC Delco package and I'm sure that they wouldnt know any different, they knocked off the look THAT good, the fake cost me almost as much as the real one so I had no reason to believe that it wouldnt work or be legit. After testing the defective one on the floor outside of the car and finding that it still sends a signal that was the same as when it was in the car, I knew it wasnt right. Traveled after work and picked up the real deal, came back and plugged it in and it works great. Lesson learned and a warning to others to buy only from a trusted source that is willing to stand behind what they are selling and dont buy knockoffs, if its to cheap to believe then its junk.

Im running E85 which with the new now working sensor shows 80% ethanol. My2g-Mitsubishi VR4 G4+ Xtreme Plugin.pclr

I thought about that but even if it was wrong, I dont think that should cause the actual lambda vs afr to be off? those are kind of a constant I would think? maybe not, maybe it is just taking the lambda value and calling a lambda of 1.00 as 9.8 afr? I would rather view it as a gasoline ratio I guess if thats the case.

Is there a reason that the lambda value thats showing up on the screen is not showing up as the same value that the on screen afr gauge is showing? in open air for example the lambda is showing the proper lambda value , but the afr is showing completely wrong, the afr on screen is wrong the entire time the engine is running also vs my actual afr gauge. You can see under the tuning logged values that the lambda with the engine off is showing up correctly at 1.503 which should be around 21.0 or so afr, however the gauge is showing 16.53? maybe I'm totally missing something? I have looked for a way to apply corrections to the on screen gauge but dont see anything anywhere I have looked.

Tested the sensot with gasoline pumped into it, no change. Tested it on the floor at home, no change, so its a fake piece of junk. I wasnt aware that knock off's of these exist or I would have bought better.