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Joe Bucci

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Joe Bucci last won the day on January 31 2019

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  1. Joe Bucci

    No Peak/Hold?

    Ouch... My feelings...
  2. Joe Bucci

    No Peak/Hold?

    I've looked around for some clearer answers to this with no luck. The G4X comparison chart shows no Peak/Hold on Fury X. Is this true? That unfortunately rules Fury X and maybe Thunder X out as upgrades for me...
  3. That did it Adam. Thank you!
  4. Thanks Adam. I’ll give it a try ASAP
  5. I have a Link G4+ Fury on a 4G63 in a 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse FWD Auto. I'm running a Kiggly Racing 12 tooth crank trigger and an OEM optical cam angle sensor with on of the "Slots" covered up to create one "Home" tooth. A common configuration on this engine. I've had the car running good for a couple months now. It's been to the Dyno. It's been to the drag strip twice. It's been 10.7 @ 131mph on a stock appearing turbo with a terrible 60', so it's running well. The 60' times have suffered because of the stock converter. Last week, I had the converter restalled. After it was back together, I fired it up and loaded it in my trailer. Went to the track and unloaded the car from the trailer. Was running completely fine. I decided to test the converter, so I stepped on the brake and floored it. The rpm came up to the 3200 rpm launch limiter much faster, less than 2 seconds, as it should, but it immediately lost momentum when it hit the cut and began climbing back up again. It had been doing this on the stock converter, just took 10+ seconds to get to 3200 rpm before. I knew I needed to work on the launch limit ignition cut settings to fix this. This is where the sh*t hit the fan... I opened my laptop. I *think* I had a file open from my buddy's Evo 9 I was tuning previously. Without thinking, I went to launch control and changed the Ignition cut settings from 90% cut to 60% cut. I connected to the ecu and uploaded the changes. The car immediately started acting up. My radiator fan and water pump came on and were pulsing. My oil pressure warning light, that's an Aux out on the ECU starting pulsing. I tried to start the car and it was banging and popping... I tried uploading an older calibration, no change. After 5 hours of normal troubleshooting, fuel, spark, timing sync, compression test... I learned cylinders 2 & 3 were not firing and if I changed my crank trigger settings to 24 tooth, the car runs normal. To me, this means the ECU is expecting a 360 degree engine cycle for some reason, and if you set to 24 teeth crank trigger, which of course is 720 degrees, it fools it in to running correctly. That said, I cannot fix it. I've tried changing the trigger 2 setting to a different setting and then back to Cam Pulse 1x, which it what it has worked on from the beginning. I've changed many other settings and then back, storing to the ECU in between. I've tried old calibration files. This morning I updated from 5.6.6 to 5.6.7 software and firmware. Same issue. Can someone help? I'm attaching the two latest cal files. One should be before I adjusted the Launch limit ignition cut % and one after. Thanks in advance. Joe JoeLaunchJoeTune#1.pclr JoeLaunchJoeTune#2.pclr
  6. Great! That’s simple enough. Thank you!
  7. Hey guys, Finally got my car running on Link G4+ Fury. I'm sure I'll be posting question now. Starting with... I'm running a 16 volt battery system. My voltage shows as high as 16.8 volts, which is fine, but it lights up red everywhere it reads. Is there a way to adjust this "alarm"? I don't like seeing red when everything is normal. A related question, Oil pressure is red at zero, and starts turning yellow around 25psi? Can I adjust those thresholds? Thanks! Joe
  8. Here is an example of mine. Source is EGR port, which may skew the number from actual, but I don't have a way to source off the manifold of turbine housing right now. The far side of the canister will go to a braided line. The braided line will go to a firewall mounted pressure transducer. I suppose the transducer could be screwed directly into the canister.
  9. Was good to see Link there. Wish I had more time to talk with them.
  10. Hey Matt! This build has been happening in chunks when time and money permit. I recently picked up a bunch of missing pieces and have been making good progress. The Trans is done and I have begun assembling the engine. Hoping to install the engine and trans very soon so I can start building the wiring harness. I have also been working on getting the fuel system, suspension and brakes finished in the rear. Hope to have all this finished soon so I can get paint on it. Hope to have it running by the end of the year and racing in the spring.
  11. But there are no 6500Hz DIs on the Fury, correct?
  12. Somewhat on this subject... I introduced myself to the Link people who were at The Shootout in Norwalk Ohio this past weekend. I explained to them that I had purchased a Link Fury recently. I told them that I had done a LOT of research both before and after purchasing the ECU, and I was very excited to begin wiring it in. I expressed to them that the only thing I was unhappy about on the Link Fury was the lack of high freq DIs. They told me that they ARE high freq. I told them I understood that the first few DIs were "High" freq at 500hz and the rest were not. They were sure the first few were real high freq like the Thunder. Can you clarify? I want turbo speed AND traction control by wheel speed in my front wheel drive.
  13. Good info here. Thanks guys! I will also be running the Kiggly 12 tooth crank trigger on my 4g63 along with a modified cam angle sensor like you have here.
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