Jump to content

kielsubaru

Members
  • Content Count

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About kielsubaru

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks Adam, I loaded that in now it's working perfectly. I'm still getting my head around setting up CAN communications, is there any good articles worth reading?
  2. So I've spent a bit of time on this over the past couple of weeks and I still can't seem to get it working correctly. The channels that are labelled "EFI EthTemp" and "EFI Eth%" read Baro Press and Battery Voltage like they did originally except they are labelled differently. I'm not sure what else you changed in my configuration.
  3. I had considered changing some of the existing channels, you are correct baro and volts aren't important to me. How do you go about modifying these channels? Thanks again
  4. Anyone have any thoughts? I'm pretty new to CAN communications, wouldn't mind some good learning references.
  5. Under "ECU Type" I set it to Link G4+ Liberty Config.rcg v13.pclr
  6. Hi, I've installed a Haltech Iq3 Street dash with my Link Thunder, also purchased the CAN adapter harness. I've set it up and RPM, ECT, IAT, AFR etc are all working correctly. I've connected an Ethanol sensor to DI 1, which also shows Fuel Temp. They are reading correctly on my laptop however I can't get these parameters to show up in the Racepak software. Not sure if it's something I've missed in the ECU setup or dash software. Thanks for your help
  7. No push button start on this car, I was intending to use the ecu controlled start as part of the anti-theft setup. But it looks like it isn't going to work how I thought. Doesn't really matter as I can still cut fuel and ignition for anti-theft.
  8. Looks like you nailed it, disconnected C20/Aux. 8, the 3v/7v volt disappeared from C32. Grounded C20, and now it behaves exactly as it should. 12v on C32 with the key to START. Looking at the diagram again, I see there is no purpose having C20 connected to the ECU, it may as well always be grounded. I only connected it to an Aux. output because that's how the OEM ECU was and also when looking through the Link manual it says to do it in the starter control section. Thanks for your help, I owe you one
  9. Fuse No. 21 only delivers 12v when the key is turned to start, referring to my service manual, pin 32 is the "Starter Switch". What I don't understand is how I've ended up with 3v on that wire with the key off. I haven't modified the factory harness, rechecked my patch harness wiring, nothing has shorted. I find it odd how DI10 turns on and off rapidly while the key is ON. Thanks for your response.
  10. First time poster here, Bit of background, I've installed a Link Thunder on my 2007 Subaru Liberty GT Spec B Manual with a built EJ255. I haven't cut the factory loom, instead made my own patch harness. I've had no trouble setting up the ecu, apart from the Start Position which I have assigned to DI10. I've got a problem where with the key OFF I have 3v on this wire, 7v with the key ON and 9v while cranking. I'll attach a link to a video which shows DI10 and Aux. 8 (Starter Solenoid) are flashing on and off rapidly with the key in the ON position. One I turn the key to start they both stay ON, release the key and they flash again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWuCVqM-828 I've plugged my OEM ecu back in and tested the voltage, 0v with the key OFF and ON, 10-11v while cranking, which I believe is correct. I've also attached a photo of the OEM wiring diagram for reference, I've connected pin C32 to DI10 (Start Position), the "On Level" set to HIGH. Then C20 to Aux. 8 (Starter Solenoid), the "Polarity" set to LOW. I'm trying to work out if I have a wiring problem or if I may of configured something wrong. I can provide any other details, any assistance would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...