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About Gregconboy158

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  1. Anyone able to shed some light on this for me please. My fuel gauge stopped working a while ago after some welding on the car (this is what I put it down too) finally got round to redoing the wiring today and it seemed to work ok at first but then started acting erratically and if you move the wiring around the resistors and capacitor it will fluctuate between 0%-50%, sometimes not reading anything sometimes jumping up and down, sometimes just a lower reading. I have the capacitor and sender using earthed to chassis not sensor ground, if this makes a difference and it is wired per the diagram above
  2. A main problem is you've used ground for coils from the thermostat housing. Change this to one of the dizzy bolts or end cap bolt next to the dizzy. What are you using for crank and cam sensors too? I see no dizzy on there and also no cam sensor bracket/wiring As Adam has said too, you've got the ground in the wrong place. It should be on the threaded part next to where it is. You're doing nothing where it is right now because of the rubber.
  3. Thanks Adam I was using cal8. Will try it on either of them today and report back.
  4. Thanks for your reply Richard, I think I'll leave it as ANVOLT for now. Do you know why when I put the readings in of 0,50,100 it autocorrects to the nearest whole number? Example of mine is; 0.64v - 100% 1.96v - 50% 3.64v - 0% It will change it to 0.6v 2v 3.6v Anyway on stopping it doing this? Thanks, Greg
  5. I got it working using ANVOLT4 on my PnP ecu. What I was wondering was, can I use ANTEMP instead though? I've got 3 spare ANVOLT on the expansion loom which I've currently used all of and I need another! If I had known it had so little 96-98 civic PnP instead of the 95! As that has an extra 3 ANVOLT over my one. If it isn't possible to use the ANTEMP for it, is there any way of adding more ANVOLT at all or is that just not possible? Thanks,
  6. Thanks for your reply Simon, I have a copy of it yes but I've tried a few base maps from the link files and it does the same thing on each one, starting to wish I never went link and stayed hondata lol. In the runtimes an4 doesn't show up and issues but reading is 0.00v. An4 is my fuel gauge and the cal table is calibrated properly and it has the capacitors and resistors in the wiring as per Adam said to do in one of my previous posts and was all working fine. If I measure the wire from sender to expansion loom (an4 in wire) it will show 4.8 odd v I think (around that anyway) I'm unsure if something has gone wrong in the wiring as at empty it should only be 3.64v and full is 0.64v (before stopped working was reading 76% fuel so around 3/4 full.
  7. Gregconboy158

    Corrupt file

    Wondering if anyone can shed some light on this problem I'm having. Last week car started fine as it usual (Honda 95 PnP g4+) went to start it yesterday wouldn't start, then after a few tries a MASSIVE backfire. Thought I'd leave it for today and come back tomorrow (today) Tried again, nope still wouldn't start. Odd occasion it would start then stall straight away so thought I'll try 're upload the map. Same thing, nothing. After a while of checking stuff (Plugs soaking) still nothing I decided I'd last try to upload a cal from the link software and hey presto it started straight up with the previous trigger offset from my tune. Thought maybe just a weird fluke that something happened to the map so let it run up to temp then turned off, tried to start it straight away again and as before, wouldn't start just turned over!! So I do as before and RE UPLOAD a stock link cal and it starts straight up again! Anyone had this type of problem before? It's come out of nowhere and not sure what to do apart from contact where I got the ecu from and see what they say? Also to mention my AN4 (on expansion loom) has stopped working too! Even on the new cal file but AN5 and AN6 still work fine :S which are both on the expansion loom. Thanks in advance
  8. Thanks for replies lads. I will have to try get the sender out of the tank and measure the readings in volts. Fingers crossed it comes out!
  9. Right had a chance to try this out, for some reason I can't get it to read though lol. I've wired as per the pictures you put on that other thread Adam and here are my settings and all it will read is 0% lol. Have i done something wrong? I'm not with the car currently but these are the values stored into the ecu.
  10. Ordered a 10" tablet in the end. Also ordered a usb extender cable so when I need to use laptop I can unplug from tablet and plug into laptop without having to worry about keeping the tuning cable loose from interior loom.
  11. Thanks for your reply Adam. I think I will have to settle for a 10" tablet then and try and hide part of the lower section behind the dash bar.
  12. I'm hoping to use the can port to stream data and provide power from the fuse box to charge at same time through the same usb so then only needing 1 port. Plus it also means if I can use this port the wiring to tablet can integrate into the interior loom where as using the normal usb tuning cable would mean I need to leave it somewhat free for when tuning.
  13. No tablet doesn't have a serial port, I'm struggling to find a 8" windows tablet with 2 usb ports, 10" tablets can find easily but I feel 10 will be to big. I've got a connector and pins for the CAN port on the ecu board so was hoping to make a usb sub loom instead of the usual serial.
  14. Hi, I'm wondering if someone could shed some light on this for me please. I have a Honda PnP G4+ ecu which has a CAN/RS232 port on the board. What I'm wondering is, can I use this to directly connect a tablet to stream data? I'm wanting to use a tablet as my main dash and doing it through this port will be much easier than having to unplug the tuning cable everytime I want to tune. If this is possible to use this port, can I charge and stream from the same plug? I know I can't with the normal tuning cable. Thanks,
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