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About Gregconboy158

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  1. Gregconboy158

    B18 Turbo

    My k20 cop get their power from the original power feed to dizzy, the earths go to the dizzy bolt and then all 4 signals go back to ECU plug.
  2. Hi, when I tuned my car it was very hot and the iats were in the 60c range (bad filter location, sorted now) so I turned off the iat compensation for both fuel and ignition. Anyway since I've sorted the filter and got a good cold air feed onto it the iats are drastically lower (20-40c) the car runs lean and feels very flat so I've turned on the iat compensation tables for fuel and adjusted to suit and it runs much better now across the rev range but now it doesn't like starting, at any coolant temperature. Sometimes takes 3 times turning ignition on and off to actually start and still turns over to many rotations than it should and then once started itll cut out if the revs aren't held to clear the fuel in the cylinders because of it. So anyway is there anything I can do short of retuning the car? Not really what I want to do if I can get around it imo. Before turning the iat table back on it started everytime easily. Here is a picture of the iat table and the engine is a honda b18. Any help would be great its embarrassing and annoying constantly having to turn it over and over and then hold revs once it does start. Thankyou
  3. Gregconboy158

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    Yes completely forgot to say that too! Make sure you do as Simon has said! I forgot and fried some new coils lol
  4. Gregconboy158

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    Remember to change the dwell table to accommodate the k20 cop. I can send my table later if needed when I get home from work.
  5. I assume it's still on stock dizzy? If so put ref timing to 16 degrees, try 119 in trigger offset and see if it'll start. When changing you need to make sure you press enter when doing changes otherwise it wont change. You'll also need a timing light to get the trigger offset perfect but it will start if you keep changing the numbers and its close. Keep trying and go up in 20s until its close then lower numbers each way. That's how I done it and then used timing light to get it perfect after it was close.
  6. Simon this is happy news to me because I've always moaned about my plug in not having enough outputs. Can this be done on all pnp ecus and how long would the ECU be required for?? What is the cost of this
  7. Gregconboy158

    B18C Link G4+

    You need to set the trigger offset, that'll be your reason. Mine on dizzy is I think 117, cop is 279 trigger offset. Obviously dont take my figures to be right for you, that's just what mine is. At the stock offset mine would run on dizzy but not very well, get the timing light out and set the dizzy to centre, 16tdc on link and adjust the trigger offset until you see it right on the pulley
  8. Thanks Adam all working with pull up on. Now to try and figure out how to get It reading right as atm its 10mph out at 70mph
  9. Ahh Gotcha so maybe the reason is because the pull up is turned off!! Will try it on when I get to the car later and see how that is! Thanks Adam
  10. Thanks will do that once I'm with the car, what do you want a log of so I make sure I get everything you need. From reading on the internet I'm seeing apparently the signal wire on a stock Honda outputs 5v, while mine reads 0v?? I've got 12v to power pin and good earth to the earth pin but 0v on the signal pin at the plug end. If you skip to 3minutes in it explains it in this video
  11. I didnt no, I will try with pull up on and see if it makes a difference. How do I attach map and log?
  12. Hi all, having a right mare with my vss ECU is Honda 95 pnp g4+ The vss wont read on the ECU, I've tried everything I can possibly think of and cannot get it to work. The catch is it used to work!! What I've done is; Changed vss for brand new item, even tried a friends known working vss. Changed the plug for vss, tested it's got good 12v and earth. Changed the signal wire straight to ECU, literally everything I can think of! Tonight I've taken the vss out the gearbox and put it in a drill to rule out a problem in the gearbox, still nothing on the tablet, it doesn't even come "on" in runtime values. Then I took the signal wire out of ECU plug and used multimeter (12v from battery and the earth onto the signal wire) and turning the wheel this pulses 12v-0v-12v !! So why on earth it wont read on tablet is beyond me! I even tried putting it to another digital input, stock on Honda is a/c switch, which I haven't got so swapped this to lf wheel speed and it still doesn't read anything. Sorry if I've baffled on or bits and pieces dont make sense I'm just miffed as to why it wont work and I cant get my head around it. Any help be appreciated
  13. Gregconboy158

    B18C Link G4+

    Are you still using the dizzy or converted to k20 coil on plug?
  14. I've enabled advanced settings and set it to 0 but still does the same thing. I will take a picture at lunch Found one on my phone. I changed the 200 to 0 and still does same thing. Also as said it's like a brick wall, it's hard to explain but its not like you would usually have a rev limiter
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