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About Gregconboy158

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  1. Hi all, got a Honda pnp ECU (b18) which I've just upgraded to k20 injectors on. Just wondering if anyone can help with the master fuel? Currently its stock 22ms from the basemap (untuned currently) and seems quite high. I dont know if my wideband is reading correctly but it seems to be real rich lol. How do I work out the master fuel? I've changed the dead times to recommended for k20 injectors but lost on the master fuel and if I need to change anything else. Thanks,
  2. Wondering if anyone's had this problem before. G4+ PnP civic ECU and I'm having problems with voltage. On idle itll read roughly 13.4-13.6 volts on pclink (haven't checked at battery) but when I turn fan, lights etc on it drops to 12.6v. I'm sure the alternator regulator is working because if you unplug the regulator plug it stops charging and stays at 12v without lights etc (haven't checked with lights on) Was wondering if there is something in the software that compensates for alternator load at all? I can get a log tomorrow if needed. I'm also going to try my friends hondata ECU to see what that reads
  3. Doh lol. thanks Adam to the rescue again! Will try that tomorrow and see how I get on!
  4. As title, I've tried searching and tried everything I can on laptop but cant get it to change from kph to mph. I've changed the settings on both metric and imperial to no avail. It's a PnP Honda civic 95 ECU, has VSS and is listed as "DI 4 LF Wheel Speed (kph)" I've tried changing it on properties but its grey'd out and cannot change the kph. Any help be great thanks,
  5. Thought that might be the case. Thanks Adam
  6. As title really, probably not possible but thought I'd ask incase it is, is it possible to have odometer display? I have a windows tablet as my dash display and it shows everything and more than what I need, was just wondering if it was possible to incorporate a odometer to it too! Thanks,
  7. Let us know how you get on installing a cam sensor. I give up with the idea and used the dizzy for the sensors in the end.
  8. All sorted, capacitor was round the wrong way, my bad lol. Put new one in right way and all is fixed and well, no more erratic readings. I will put the earths to sensor ground when I get a minute.
  9. Thanks for reply cj, I think I might potentially know what the problem is! I didn't realise (or look tbf) that the capacitor has to go s certain way +/- and I think it might be round the wrong way so going to look at that today and change out the capacitor if it is infact wrong and will report back. Shall I change to sensor ground then? On both capacitor and sender or just one?
  10. Anyone able to shed some light on this for me please. My fuel gauge stopped working a while ago after some welding on the car (this is what I put it down too) finally got round to redoing the wiring today and it seemed to work ok at first but then started acting erratically and if you move the wiring around the resistors and capacitor it will fluctuate between 0%-50%, sometimes not reading anything sometimes jumping up and down, sometimes just a lower reading. I have the capacitor and sender using earthed to chassis not sensor ground, if this makes a difference and it is wired per the diagram above
  11. A main problem is you've used ground for coils from the thermostat housing. Change this to one of the dizzy bolts or end cap bolt next to the dizzy. What are you using for crank and cam sensors too? I see no dizzy on there and also no cam sensor bracket/wiring As Adam has said too, you've got the ground in the wrong place. It should be on the threaded part next to where it is. You're doing nothing where it is right now because of the rubber.
  12. Thanks Adam I was using cal8. Will try it on either of them today and report back.
  13. Thanks for your reply Richard, I think I'll leave it as ANVOLT for now. Do you know why when I put the readings in of 0,50,100 it autocorrects to the nearest whole number? Example of mine is; 0.64v - 100% 1.96v - 50% 3.64v - 0% It will change it to 0.6v 2v 3.6v Anyway on stopping it doing this? Thanks, Greg
  14. I got it working using ANVOLT4 on my PnP ecu. What I was wondering was, can I use ANTEMP instead though? I've got 3 spare ANVOLT on the expansion loom which I've currently used all of and I need another! If I had known it had so little 96-98 civic PnP instead of the 95! As that has an extra 3 ANVOLT over my one. If it isn't possible to use the ANTEMP for it, is there any way of adding more ANVOLT at all or is that just not possible? Thanks,
  15. Thanks for your reply Simon, I have a copy of it yes but I've tried a few base maps from the link files and it does the same thing on each one, starting to wish I never went link and stayed hondata lol. In the runtimes an4 doesn't show up and issues but reading is 0.00v. An4 is my fuel gauge and the cal table is calibrated properly and it has the capacitors and resistors in the wiring as per Adam said to do in one of my previous posts and was all working fine. If I measure the wire from sender to expansion loom (an4 in wire) it will show 4.8 odd v I think (around that anyway) I'm unsure if something has gone wrong in the wiring as at empty it should only be 3.64v and full is 0.64v (before stopped working was reading 76% fuel so around 3/4 full.
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