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About TacticalGibs

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  1. Adturb no DBW on my car, those are the firsts blobeye models, DBW came later. Cable 4 life ! Ducie54 of course the tune is an important part of the reliability, but you can have the best tune, if your parts aren't strong enough it will break. EJ20 (even "3/4 closed-deck") (I'm not talking about EJ25 wich is just a bored EJ20) reach their structural limit at 600hp, after that they need to be sleeved or converted to fully closed-deck. At 600hp, I'm losing a lot of reliability versus using my engine at "only" 500hp (wich is less reliable than 400hp, etc...). Mechanical stress... More power (in fact more torque) = more pressure in the combustion chambers, no matter how good the tune is. mapper thanks a lot for your answer. I'm not mapping (I understand how it works, I've read books like Engine management advanced tuning by Greg Banish), I'm just gathering informations to choose parts wisely
  2. Ducie54 I don't know if you're a d-bag or just a troll, but you must be seriously embittered in your life to act like this (plus you don't know what you're talking about, you can ask the best mapper in the world to tune a 800hp 2.0 mass produced - cast aluminium block it will never be reliable for more than drag-race use. Open a book of physic and learn about a lot of things, including mechanical stress. Knock, auto-ignition and AFR aren't everything). JMP my mapper is used to Motec, but is ok to map on Link, Sybele and AEM. And I want a stand-alone ECU because I plan to add a race dash later.
  3. Ducie54 : Or maybe somebody is trying to keep the reliability of his very expensive engine while still be able to fully use it when needed. But you know me and what I'm doing so of course you can judge. Internet/keyboard pride I guess. Stevie of course he has, and that's not the question. Don't take yoursevles too seriously guys, chill, we're talking about ECU, not cancer. And do you think every former top level (F1/WRC/WTEC/Nascar etc...) mechanic lives hidden in a cave after leaving the competition world ? Guess what, some of the are still working, and some even got their own business.
  4. 500hp 2.1l = almost 240hp per liter. Porsche's 919 2.0 V4 is outputing 500hp (so 250hp per liter) with factory money. Why ? Because it was required to last more than 24h and 5000km... At a point physic is the problem, and of course my engine will be able to hold even 800hp, but I'm looking for an endurance-style engine (with the associated reliability), not a drag-race engine ;) My mechanic/mapper was in Subaru WRC team for 7 years, I don't think we can pretend to learn him things, especially about EJ engines ;) So I just want an answer to my question, can the G4+ do this ? I know the AEM Infinity 506 can, but the G4+ is plug'n'play, so a little bit cheaper (no expensive harness needed).
  5. Hello everybody, I'm currently planning the build of a new engine for my Scooby (2.1 strocker fully forged 3/4 closed-deck, blueprinted and balanced EJ20), and so I'm looking for a new ECU for my 2004 WRX, but only to get certains specifics functions (for the engine management alone, my actual Denso AJ840 ECU with Eculabs is perfectly fine). So why change ? Because I want to be able to switch between maps in real-time and without delay, and I need something that can handle 3 or 4 maps (for exemple : - street (300hp) - track soft (400hp) - track hard (500hp) - straight line boost/overtaking (550 or 600hp) The engine and turbo (GTX3576R Gen2) can stand up to 600hp+ easily, but I want it to be "reliable" (this is a Nürburgring car, used on the street only to go to the ring and go back home.). So my question is : can the G4+ handle this ? How many fuel/ignition/VE/boost maps are possible, and can you swtich between them without delay and on the fly ? (for example, the "straight line boost/overtaking" will be activated by a button on the steering wheel). I don't want to have 400hp boost with 500hp ignition map for example Thanks for your answers !
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