Jump to content

namre

Members
  • Posts

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by namre

  1. On 1/24/2019 at 4:02 AM, Adamw said:

    I also think it is not only idle ignition that is your problem.  In a couple of places in your log the RPM is bouncing around due to the throttle, the ignition timing is steady.  I think this is because you have quite an aggressive (looks like 1:1) AP/TP target.  So this makes your throttle very sensitive initially and just a little bounce on your foot sets it off.  I would try taming the TP target table down a little bit, especially the first say 10% of pedal movement.

    decreasing ethrottle target helped a lot. it was not 1 to 1 but i decreased it anyway. it decreased the bucking to an acceptable level. thanks for this.

    On 1/25/2019 at 11:17 PM, Rob W said:

    Try something more along these lines and tweak the numbers from there

    It will be most beneficial if you start by tuning the idle up with this turned off and use the base position and the block of timing in the idle area first. In your earlier logs it was happy at 15* meeting your target idle. The 26* or whatever it was in tuners basemap is quite uncommon and it might help if you start over.

    ign 1.JPG

    IIC.JPG

    yeah i also believe that it's happy at 15*. i have already tried to change the idle area as you also suggested but this time it moved the problem to 1250-1500 rpm range. i realized that same thing happened at 1250-1500 area as the timing increases a lot. may be i need to retune timing in the rows of 40 and 60 kpa to make smooth increases and decreases but i am not actually confident about that. i need to find a way to interpolate the timing according to new values but i have no idea about that. any suggestions appreciated. does flatting the two rows make any sense? i know this will cause an extreme loss of torque in that are but high rpms are not actually used at 40-60 kpa usually. 

  2. still related to this: after solving the problems of bucking and idle, i accidentally realized that sometimes there is a strong bucking at very slow speed between 1000-1500 rpm. i tried to search for the cause and i have found that it happens when idle ignition control kicks in and locks out momentarily. meaning that you are driving slow and releasing the gas pedal a little bit and just after that put back again. attached are my screenshots and also log file. you can see that when it happens ap drops to 0 at a very short time and then idling starts to lower rpm by retarding the ignition. but then when you put back your foot again, ignition table starts to work and confusion occurs. i think only workaround would be putting a zero to speed lockout but then there is no point of having an idle system since it will be high or floating again at slow speeds. 

    and the questions: is it so that my ignition table and idle ignition table contradicts a lot? might this be the reason? if so would it mean that i should have -15 degrees in ignition table somewhere synced to idle ignition table? and if so is it possible to have this kind of numbers as they will be far far away from the base map.

    thanks in advance for your support.

    idle_ignition_table.JPG

     

    Log 2019-01-23 7;06;48 pm.llg

  3. 34 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    It is not clear what you have done or what your problem is?  Did you do the test I suggested by removing the sensor and checking the voltage at full rich/full lean?  Is that the results you show in the cal table above? 

    what did the gauge read and what where the voltages?

    Can you give some examples of what the gauge displays VS what the ECU displays with the current settings.

    yes i have made the test. and the figures above are showing the max min volt/lambda. for lambda as i said i considered 10:1 min and 18.5:1 for maximum. these were the values gauge limited to. It showed 10 for rich and "---" for full lean.

    difference is like 12 vs 12.3 afr. ecu was leaner as far as i remember. sometimes it gets bigger but not above 1 afr. driving and checking at the same time easy so i am not sure on wot differences if any.

     

  4. On 1/23/2019 at 9:13 AM, Adamw said:

    Im not sure what you're asking, but maybe this old video from our G4 software will give you some ideas of how configurable the layouts are:  https://youtu.be/-Hb04S07IA0

     

    thanks for the video. OK. let's say you have the default layout and you are on tuning page. in this page you have one settings view which includes tables or parameters etc. to tune from ecu settings. and you have a graph at right. but you can convert it to grid or table anyway. but besides these is there a way to create another view which includes fuel table or ignition etc etc? hope it's more clear.  

  5. 1 hour ago, Adamw said:

    This is what we want.  We want to know what voltage the ECU receives when the gauge reads full scale and minimum scale.

     

    Here are the results of the test. I still see small differences which are smaller than 1:1 afr but its the maximum point we can reach then. 

    3A784DDC-3BAA-44EE-9075-F016CB74CD12.jpeg

  6. On 1/19/2019 at 11:31 PM, Adamw said:

    The problem is AEM have at least 3 different calibration curves and the OP doesn’t know what model gauge he has.

    No way to find other values to try? If not,

    I will try to apply the test soon but is this a restriction: minimum/maximum afr that we can read from gauge will be 10 and 18.5. Is it worth to try anyway since I assume that the sensor is welded to mount from heating up and cooling down for year maybe more and I don't want to break it for this test. Correct me if I'm wrong though.

  7. 51 minutes ago, ClintBHP said:

    With 14.7 Stoic 2.15v should read 0.844

    sorry i couldn't quite follow. if it's linear then max 4.99 volts would mean 1.96 lambda which is huge.

    how can i use this info for calibration?

  8. 3 hours ago, namre said:

    update: after some research i decided to use idle ignition table at top. the issue was the older idle ignition table was correlated to ap% something and engine speed i guess. i reformatted it according to a 2d idle target error table as below. now it seems more stable. there are no dramatic drops in ac and engine fan. only handicap could be the rpm limit that needs to be 1400. so i need to start driving above that but that's the common way.  

    image.png

    image.png

    this is solved by turning tp/ap lock out to 1%. when I start to press the gas idle ignition closed automatically.

  9. update: after some research i decided to use idle ignition table at top. the issue was the older idle ignition table was correlated to ap% something and engine speed i guess. i reformatted it according to a 2d idle target error table as below. now it seems more stable. there are no dramatic drops in ac and engine fan. only handicap could be the rpm limit that needs to be 1400. so i need to start driving above that but that's the common way.  

    image.png

    image.png

  10. On 1/18/2019 at 12:13 PM, Adamw said:

    Rather than trial and error, we can do a quick test to get a better idea of the voltage range of your device:

    Temporarily change the AN Volt 4 function from "lambda 1" to "voltage 0-5V", so we can then view the raw voltage coming from the device in the runtimes screen while we do the test.  Runtimes screen is accessed by pressing F12 on the keyboard and then go to the analog tab as per the picture below.

    Pull the sensor out of the exhaust system.  With power on and the sensor hanging in free air, note down on a piece of paper both the voltage displayed in the runtimes screen and the AFR or lambda displayed on the gauge face.

    Next slightly dampen a rag with some hydrocarbon solvent (petrol or brake clean will do) wrap that rag around the sensor so the damp bit is near the sensor tip, the gauge should go to full rich scale as the solvent evaporates.  Again note down the voltage displayed in the runtimes screen and the value displayed on the gauge face.

    Report back what you have recorded and we can build a calibration from that assuming the values we get back make sense.

    23jg75i.png

    strange thing is that i see the lambda unit in runtime values rather than voltage. i was not able to change it. i think i cannot calibrate under these conditions.

    image.png.658a5b18e0b3cc6c60642386d12d18ba.png

  11. 13 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    Rather than trial and error, we can do a quick test to get a better idea of the voltage range of your device:

    Temporarily change the AN Volt 4 function from "lambda 1" to "voltage 0-5V", so we can then view the raw voltage coming from the device in the runtimes screen while we do the test.  Runtimes screen is accessed by pressing F12 on the keyboard and then go to the analog tab as per the picture below.

    Pull the sensor out of the exhaust system.  With power on and the sensor hanging in free air, note down on a piece of paper both the voltage displayed in the runtimes screen and the AFR or lambda displayed on the gauge face.

    Next slightly dampen a rag with some hydrocarbon solvent (petrol or brake clean will do) wrap that rag around the sensor so the damp bit is near the sensor tip, the gauge should go to full rich scale as the solvent evaporates.  Again note down the voltage displayed in the runtimes screen and the value displayed on the gauge face.

    Report back what you have recorded and we can build a calibration from that assuming the values we get back make sense.

    23jg75i.png

    one comment: i suppose gauges have down and upper limits. for example if it's 9:1 it would show 10:1 as a minimum. and after 18:1 it turns to "---" as far as i know. wouldn't it effect calibration?

  12. update: my lambda values on the ecu was crap since calibration was wrong. could not find the correct values but we have retuned fuel according to gauge this time. most of the bucking went away and it's better now. so there were wrong afr values in ecu readings. now only in 2nd gear if you force to drive constantly at 2500 rpm there is a little bucking and i guess this is normal?

  13. 23 hours ago, Adamw said:

    This is the common one for older gauges, try this first:

     

    Edit; updated, posted wrong pic originally.

    17edzd.png

    do you have the info on other calibration values in order to try? icouldnot find them online.

  14. 20 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    You can try that.  To give you an example calibration I need the model number of your AEM gauge as there are at least 3 different AEM wideband gauge calibrations in use.

    OK. that's a hard question for the reason i mentioned. but i strongly believe it's a 30-4100 most common one around. is there a document that i can check the calibration numbers for the other models in case i'm wrong? 

  15. 15 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    No, as I already said the factory sensor cant be used for lambda 1.  

    You have Lambda 1 assigned to AN Volt 4, this is normally the tumble valve position on a V10 subaru so somebody must have wired something to the ECU.  You have a very weird calibration on AN Volt 4 that matches no wideband controller that I know of so thats most likely why it doesnt read right.

    If the AEM is the only wideband you have fitted to the car then Im pretty sure the AEM must be wired to the ECU, to test if it is, with PC Link connected to the ECU so you can see Lambda 1 in the software, with engine not running, can you unplug the wires out of the back of the AEM gauge and see if lambda 1 reading in the software changes.

     

    xgbhi1.png

    thanks, my misunderstanding.

    back of the gauge was siliconed due to socket problem and it's on a very hard place to unplug.

    for an easier one is it ok to change calibration according to aem and check if it's almost matching with gauge?

  16.  

    On 1/17/2019 at 7:26 AM, Adamw said:

     

    Note there is no "lambda 1" set up by default, it will not be coming from a factory narrowband or wideband sensor, if you have a working Lambda 1 displayed in PC Link then it probably means your AEM device is connected to the ECU.  Can you attach your tune file (.pclr) and also tell us what model your AEM device is so we can check your settings.

    Here is the base map. We have altered the tuning according to aem wide band gauge and it's much better now.

    I suppose lambda 1 connected to ecu is the oem lambda as it's always richer than aem. I also could not verify calibration settings of aem uego in ecu. I also wish aem wideband was wired but it doesn't seem so.

     

  17. I have a lambda 1 analog input and also an aem wideband gauge. Two of them are showing different values up to 2:1 afr points sometimes. Car was tuned according to lambda 1.

    As we don't know if lambda 1 is oem narrowband or wideband is there a way to justify it from ecu or somewhere? I've seen values down to 9:1 on lambda 1 if there is a max/min for a band.

    If it's an oem sensor does it mean that car needs to retuned according to aem wideband? There are two censors on the pipeline. The upper is lambda 1 and the latter one is aem wideband. In ecu i was able to find just one lambda meaning that the other one is not wired to ecu.

×
×
  • Create New...