Jump to content

edzilla

Members
  • Content Count

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About edzilla

  • Rank
    Newbie

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Everyone, I'd like to start out by saying that the car finally started tonight and ran very well for not having any wideband sensors installed. Those are next on the list to be wired in. I want to thank Simon and Adam for their help. I spoke with Adam a few times tonight and he guided us in the right direction. The fix that got it to fire was jumping battery 12v to pin 45. There does appear to be some voltage drop happening across that circuit. Could be corrosion on some of the junction points per Adam, or my thought was hardening of the harness creating additional resistance. My idea for now will be to repurpose the turbo timer harness and jump 12v straight to pin 45. I will trace the original wiring at some point to see if I can find anything else that might be causing this voltage drop. TechDave, you're pretty much spot on. I might look at the ign cylinder first. I did hear the ECCS relay clicking during troubleshooting. Grant/Baker - thanks for the suggestions as well. I started going down that path but it seems like the age of these vehicles is really starting to show. Thanks everyone!!! Ed
  2. Hi Simon/Adam, I'm inclined to try the additional relay method suggested. I spent a few days this past weekend troubleshooting, and if I manually ground pin 16, the ECU does stay online while cranking. I was able to partially see that Trigger 2 was "ON" but I never saw Trigger 1 change status. Engine never started. I decided to put pin 16 back in the original location and the Link went back to the old behavior of disconnecting while cranking. I didn't have a chance to do a deep dive into the calibration when pin 16 was manually grounded this weekend... but I will try the relay method tonight. There are a few other things I want to mention.... 1. At Key-On, the tach does a sweep that looks like a Defi gauge sweep. I don't think this should be happening? Is this an option in the ECU? 2. After re-loading the GT-R base map, I had 2 errors, AN Temp 3, and AN Volt 6. My concern is with AN Volt 6.. the original wiring for that is Oxygen Sensor. Could that be causing an issue with startup? 3. At Key-On, if I depress the throttle, I hear a pump going. I'm guessing this is the ATESSA pump? With Jumper J1 on or off, it does this. Calibration file concern? Is there any possible update from Dave@Link.... from what Grant mentioned? Thanks, Ed
  3. Simon, I was able to have my buddy send me photos of the CAS and wiring at the CAS connector. Everything is in the right position for an R32 GTR (Mitsu CAS). (120, 1, +12v, GND | Pins 1-4 respectively) The part number on the ECU is for an R32 GTR as well. It appears that the CAS is not the problem as you mentioned. I'm doubtful that wiring at the ECU connector has been changed, but I will check to make sure. I will try your temporary ground test when I get to the car this weekend and pull off the questionable turbo timer. Kazu - no problem. I hope this will be helpful to you. Ed
  4. Hi Simon/Adam, I was able to meet Jason (PSI) this past weekend and discussed my issue at an event, and we are thinking the issue could be tied to CAS wiring. Although the car did appear to be "bone stock" from Japan, it's a possibility that the CAS has been changed or wiring modified. I haven't been able to get to the car for the past 2 weeks but I will try this weekend. Power/ground/trig1/trig2 could all be flipped depending on if it's a R32 or R34 CAS. I'm waiting for a picture to be sent so I can see verify which CAS I'm dealing with. I'm hoping it will be as simple as re-pinning some wires at the CAS connector. Going to run a continuity test to see where things are wired as well. speedotech - I'd suggest you verifying this aspect on your setup as well. Thanks, Ed
  5. Thanks Simon. Will give this a try and provide an update.
  6. Hello Everyone, Hoping to get some help with a 1991 R32 GT-R on a Link G4+ Plugin ECU. I did a search for these issues and tried all the suggestions I found but have not had any luck. This is a brand new install. The car is a stock 1991 R32 GTR. First thing I noticed after installing the ECU was that it disconnects while cranking. Battery was low initially during cranking so I put a charger on it for the remainder of these tests. Even with the charger the ECU would disconnect. We decided to use a power probe to manually apply 12V power to pin 49, bypassing the ECCS relay for now. We did verify 45 had power at key-on. This finally allowed the ECU to stay online while cranking. We also tried dip switches in both positions, R34 and Other. Neither make a difference. The J1 jumper is removed. I reseated the ECU connector a few times, double checking to make sure the sides were not caught on anything or popping up, 10mm bolt is very tight/snug. I don't believe there to be an issue with the ECCS relay system. I've owned the car for the last 2 years and it's never given me a problem, so I'm still a bit confused as to why I need to manually feed it power to stay alive during cranking. Second issue was now I was not getting any engine speed or spark while cranking. I am using the GTR basemap, I did not go through the Test ECCS Sync procedure. Widest slot was set to 24 per the basemap. I was never able to get spark while cranking so I wasn't able to run through the base timing setup either. I've tried trigger offset values of 0, -82, and -80 without any luck. I am able to use the ignition test function to trigger coil 1 and visually verify spark. While cranking, RPM stays at 0. I setup a new parameters window to watch Trig 1 and Trig 2 Signal, they always stay on 'NO'. I was only able to see this towards the end when we used the power probe to keep the ECU from disconnecting. TPS calibrated fine. I am using the on-board map sensor. The only thing I can think of is that the car came with an "Ultra" brand turbo timer. Its never seemed to work and I tried the above tests with the timer on and off. There are no sensors that have been wired in. I also tried unplugging both MAF sensors with no change. After giving up, I swapped the PCB's and put he stock ECU back in place. The engine fired up on the first crank. It was difficult to keep the ECU online while doing these tests so unfortunately I don't have any logs to share. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,  Ed
×
×
  • Create New...