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  1. It is a 2000 GM6. 2 door USDM Normally aspirated 2.5 SOHC. There is the fuel pump on one side with a 6 wire plug that jumps over to a 2 wire plug on the other side of the fuel tank. None of that stuff was changed with the swap. I have only tapped into chassis wires that I needed. Thanks
  2. Hi CJ, thanks for for the info. It seems as though giving the BrW +5v has some effect on the fuel pump because the car will not run with RedL wire hooked up. I’m not sure about the speedometer as I haven’t driven it yet. Any idea why the fuel pump would stop working? thanks
  3. Hello all, I am trying to get my car buttoned up before going for a tune next weekend. I am having trouble with the speedometer and fuel gauge not work, both of which I don't believe have to go through the ECU. My question is if they don't need ECU assistance, why would they not work? The only thing different from when the stock engine was in is the lack of OEM ECU. The only thing I can think of is maybe one of those wires were grounded on the factory ECU and now they are not. The fuel sender has the 2 wires Blue and Brown/White and it has continuity right through to the cluster. The VSS is a 3 wire Power, Ground, Signal and same thing, it has power and I ground it straight to the engine bay but no input on the cluster. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thank you
  4. Hey Adam, i got the gauge working. I had it wired into the CAN 2 H/L on the harness but set it up as CAN 1 as per the instructions. I punched in these same settings on CAN 2 and all is well. Thank you
  5. Hello again, I am just wondering if anyone has had issues getting a CAN gauge to display data? I have configured it according to the manufacturer and I am able to customize the layouts however it does not display any live data. Thanks
  6. I appreciate everyone who’s helped me with this project and I’m sure I will have more questions in the future but for the time being the car is running. I have a few more things to button up before I’ll be able to drive it but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Thanks again
  7. Well that will probably make a difference. I guess there’s only one way to learn. Thanks Adam
  8. So I tried adjusting the timing 360 degrees but when I put the timing light back on it was way off TDC. I tried adjust the offset value in the trigger calibrate view but whatever value I put in my mark on the crank pulley was in the same spot. Why am I unable to change this. Is this an issue with PCLink. All the injectors and ignitors are wired correctly.
  9. Hello again, I gave in and changed the plugs however I didn't see any changes, only louder pops. They seem to be delayed, popping after I stop cranking. Is it possible my timing is out 360 degrees or would that cause everything to run backwards (Exhaust out intake)? I have a trigger scope and cranking log if someone wouldn't mind having a look. Not running.llg Trigger Scope Log(NO PLUGS) 2018-09-7 9;20;18 pm.llg
  10. Hello, I have figured out a bunch of stuff thanks to Link Support. I now have spark, fuel and air but the car won't run. I have set timing but the car will not run. I was told it might be a good idea to change the plugs however this would involve pulling the engine which I am not too thrilled about. Just wondering if there is anything else that I might be able to try before going that route. Thanks
  11. Thanks CJ, I had a HT lead running between the coil pack and the spark plug but I wasn’t sure if the connection was poor or if there was no spark to begin with. I will run the ignition test on each coil to make sure I’m getting spark on each cylinder.
  12. So I have my TDC and ~15o BTDC marked on my crank pulley. When I attach the timing light I don't get any light which would seem to me like there is no spark. Is there a trick for checking timing with a Coil on Plug? I have attached a log of the engine cranking with the proper MAP sensor. no spark.llg
  13. Hi CJ, Thanks for pointing out the MAP sensor. I know that I have changed that to the Subaru EZ30 AVCS sensor before but it must not have saved. That would explain the MAP being so far out. As far as the timing goes, I have one timing mark marked on the pulley and the timing cover reads from 10-30 degrees I believe. I will have to check the crank pulley for that second mark you are talking about. How would I know how far behind the second mark would be? I appreciate the feedback.
  14. Hello Adam, Please see my Log and Base map attached below. I have not been able to check base timing however the engine was running when I took it out of the donor car and it is a chain driven motor so I have no reason to believe timing is out. Cranking Log.llg EZ30.pclr
  15. Hello all, I switched the signal wire going to my main relay so my ECU stays connected while cranking and I am getting 150-200RPM while cranking. Trigger 1 and trigger 2 are functioning but the car will not start. Is this just a matter of adjusting fuel? EDIT: I am getting a trigger 1 error but only 1 count. Thanks
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