Jump to content

DomsE36Garage

Members
  • Posts

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by DomsE36Garage

  1. Could potentially be an adapter fault. Us USB users find that adapters/cables are very hit and miss, not sure about the CAN adapters but I assume they may be similar. I had to try 4 different USB adapters until I got one that works for everything bar charging and sending data.
  2. Hey guys, thanks very much for the tweaks. I only made the changes Adam suggested to see how they'd go, so far so good I think! Obviously can't test too thoroughly being stationary but initial rev tests seem to be looking promising! After a rev it drops down to about 1000-1200rpm and settles from there, so that seems like it's behaving really well in comparison. Now i'm not familiar with checking logs, but I took a quick log post changes that I'd like you to have a look at to see if it's looking better from your end. Thanks again guys, really useful information and confident I can tweak from here based on both your advice to fine tune things if required. Next time i'll be out on the track will be about Feb, so will report back then! E36 stalling - post idle tweaks.llg
  3. Thanks mate, I'll try to process all that and certainly utilise your tips if I can figure out what I'm doing haha! @Adamw, is there a simple video showing me how to modify and commit these values? I've watched your other useful videos about similar things, I just don't want to stuff anything up. Also I'm sure there's an easy way to modify the values in a batch rather than me changing a value one by one!
  4. Thanks Adam, I'll give it a try over the next few days and will report back. Much appreciated!
  5. Adam, unfortunately I couldn't get it to replicate the stall exactly. It was however struggling a little bit to get back to idle when I was out there revving it. See attached log. E36 stalling - no stall.llg
  6. Yeah sorry Adam, thought of that after posting. Just popped out and grabbed the log and tune for you mate, the last 30 seconds was where I was just revving it and letting it die. See attached. Please note, the car was professionally dyno tuned by a Link dealer, and i'm not very familiar with the PC Link interface, so bare with me. It's also 9pm at night here, so won't be able to test things out till tomorrow Thanks in advance. AaronDomio_E36_Bosch040_3582_180kpa_98_04 Current 2020 Tune.pclr E36 stalling.llg
  7. Hey guys, after a bit of help/suggestions. My turbo E36 325i (M50B25TU w' Garrett GT3582r) running the Link G4 pnp runs beautifully at full noise and can take me around a track at 100% all day long without issue. However, if I put the car into neutrel or put in the clutch to come to a stop, the car will stall completely. It looks like the rpms drop pretty low (around 500rpm) and try to climb again but stalls out post revving...see attached video. I'm not sure if it's ecu related or potentially vacuum related etc. Hoping for some good suggestions on where to start. https://youtu.be/U__kc8fLIcQ
  8. Cheers Adam, keen to hear how you go with the BT CAN setup. At the moment I just charge my dash to 100% before I go out for a race day and works ok so far
  9. Yeah awesome Mario, instructions would be great. I might look into this. Out of curiosity, how do you charge your tablet when hooked into CAN? Does it free up the USB port for normal charging? I still haven't successfully managed to charge whole sending data to the tablet.
  10. I had similar issues with mine too, I had to plug a mouse and thumb drive etc into the OTG cable and tablet before it picked up the OTG connection. So you are best off rebooting the tablet and testing until you can get the OTG cable to pick up a usb device on your tablet. Once you are succesfull with that, try it in the car again and make sure you have the car turned to accessory or whatever activates your ECU. Hopefully realdash will then detect the ECU. I'm now 4 OTG cables in with no success on getting the USB and charging to work too, so it's just advise to say the issue is likely with your tablet or OTG cable.
  11. @Adamw Ok, so I did the wire on ECU pin 50 to ground and got a really weak spark on Cyl 1 coil and plug...so that's a good sign my wiring hack is working. I tested the same thing on Cyl 2 and got the same small little spark so that's good. I then plugged in the ECU and ran the ignition test on Cyl1 - No spark at all >>> Ran the ignition test on Cyl 2 - Really strong spark. So looks like I might have a Cyl1 igniter issue on the ECU. Can you tell me which and where the igniters are on the ECU and if the faulty/shorted one can be repolaced? I really don't want to have to buy another $1500 ecu if I can avoid it. Thanks in advance.
  12. Yeah awesome, thanks Adam i'll try it out over the next couple of days to see how I go.
  13. Ok, looking at the wiring schematics: Green - ignition/12v power?? Black - signal to ECU Brown - ground So it looks like the black wire trails back to the ECU on pin 50 (i'll check continuity between pin 50 on the ECU plug and the black wire on the coil plug) How do I check 12v on the green wire? do I just test to a ground point to display voltage? For the brown, i can ground that to the engine no issues.
  14. Not sure how to do this (i[m not electrically minded, so hints would be great) Also not 100% sure how to check this either. I did a continuity test on all 3 coil plug wires, and two of the 3 have continuity to ground on the engine, the 3rd wire doesnt. (Test may be irrelevant but I get the same results on the working coil plugs) If the ground wire is either brown or green, yes, I checked continuity back to the motor succesfully.
  15. Is there an igniter for each coil on the ECU or a single igniter for all coils? I traced the wires back to the potential short and replaced them. I also replaced the coil with a working one and it's still not firing, I wonder if the short did damage the igniter, so if so, how would I check that?
  16. So with the car running, I removed the plugs from each of the coils 1 by 1. Unplugging each coil made the engine sound different EXCEPT for Cylinder 1. So I suspect Cylinder one isn't firing at all, plus Cyl 1 is the closest to where the fire was, so I was initially drawn to that cylinder. I'll try a compression test first to make sure that cylinder is OK, and then I guess I have to start testing coils and wires etc, but certainly sounds like that's where the problem lies. I can send you a log output of the session when the fire occurred, and then the session with the missfire if you think that would help.
  17. Any other suggestion for those couple of questions?
  18. Not yet, though I threw one of the working coils (from Cylinder 5) into Cylinder 1 and it still didn't fire so figured that was enough of a test (and vice versa, the potentially bad coil from Cyl1 fired fine on Cyl5). However tomorrow I plan on grabbing one of my spare old coils from the old motor and throw it in there to see if it makes a difference....i'm not hopeful though.
  19. Hi Guys, I'm running the G4+ pnp for the M50 vanos motor. I was out at the track yesterday and the car was misfiring on Cylinder 1 each session which I identified after session 2. A bit of background is the last time I was out racing before Covid, my high mount turbo setup blew out the downpipe gasket and I had a small fire right next to cylinder 1 and coilpack 1. Once the downpipe blew out, the car sort of went into limp mode and I limped it back to the pits and put out the fire. I've since fixed all that and the car sounded like it was running fine, however out on the track yesterday, you could hear it clearly at full noise brumming away on 5 out of 6 cylinders. I tried multiple tests (swapping known good coil for the potentially bad coil, also the wiring loom to coil 1 was pretty toasted so I snipped out the bad wires and did some trackside rewiring with no luck). So I'm pretty sure the coil is OK as it ran fine on another cylinder, and I'm pretty sure the sparkplug in Cyl1 is ok because it also worked fine in another cylinder, so I'm trying to work out a way to troubleshoot this. Q1. A mate recommended I set a 'logged channel' to see the voltage output, or at least some output recorded by the ecu each time the coil fires to see what is going on....is this possible to do and if so, how do I do it? Q2. Also, he suggest I try to get the ecu to test the coils by firing them on command so I can test for spark....is this also possible and how do I do it? I also plan on doing a compression test and depending on the spark situation, i'll check out the injector on Cylinder 1 too....I can't think what else may be the issue but I have a very strong hunch that whatever it is was caused by the fire in the engine bay. Here are some pictures of what's going on there too (all the white stuff is fire extinguisher residue from months ago), hope you can help Cheers, Dom
  20. So far I've tried 3 OTG cables/adaptors with no luck in charging my Samsung tablet so I think it's going to be very hit and miss. I've watched a few video's about making your own OTG cables which might work but again not guaranteed and you need to be pretty good with electronics and soldering small stuff to give it a crack. At least for me, I only use the dash on my race car so could probably get away with a single charge for a single day of racing, however on a daily driver it'd be a pain and you'd end up spending a few hundred in finding the right adaptor to work with your device.
  21. Go back to the first post and download the PDF. Have a read of that which tells you how to set up PCLink and your device. I had issues connected because my tablet wasn't picking up the USB cable properly, so you could have an issue with your OTG cable.
  22. Hey guys, i'm working on configuring the dash fully, but am having issues setting up a boost gauge (PSI) and AFR gauge. I'm running the Link G4 Pnp for M50B25TU and I have a boost solenoid configured to hook into IGN 8 + a manual boost gauge, and I have an AEM Wideband hooked in ANVolt 4 (through an expansion loom - Expansion 6) but I can't get either of them to display on the dash. I modified the AFR input on the gauge on the lower left to point to ANVolt 4 but it just stays at "16" the whole time. Any help is appreciated.
  23. Be keen to see some pics and instructions once you make it and i'll give it a crack myself! I found an OTG adaptor thats meant to do charging and data for $7 on ebay, so i'll give it a try too. Problem is it's a little block, not a cable one so may add a little stress to the MicroUSB port on the tablet, but will see.
  24. Cheers mate, I do believe it was a cable issue now. I managed to get the OTG cable to work and hooked the tablet into my Link ECU with no issues. For some reason my tablet had to think about things overnight before it decided it liked the OTG cable i had haha. I threw a USB stick into the OTG cable and bam she picked it up, then wen't out and plugged the OTG back into the Link and RealDash picked it up straight away. Only issue i have now is the Y shaped cable i have won't charge the device while it's running, so i'll need to make sure the tablet is charged up before every race meet for the time being, unless someone has a workaround.
  25. Hey Adam, I finally decided to give RealDash a crack and purchased the full version etc. I'm running the Link G4+ pnp for my Turbo E36 and i've got a Samsung Galaxy Tab E Lite that i've installed real dash on. I set up the ECU connections as per the pdf document, saved and power cycled the ECU (i think - turned off the car and turned it back on, even disconnected the battery for 30 seconds and reconnected it), but when I go to add the ECU to Real Dash i get stuck at the 'serial port' screen as you can see in the picture. The dots keep blinking and it doesn't pick anything up. I have a Gadget Geeks Y shaped OTG cable and have tried both outputs on that to no avail, and I also used the standard USB charging cable for the tablet which also didn't pick anything up. It might be an issue with the OTG cable but it's brand new and I note one of the other members on the forum here is using the same OTG cable in his setup which works. But have you got any idea if I might be going wrong somewhere with my setup? Literally USB cable straight from the Link ECU, straight into the OTG or std charging cable and into the tablet....no good. Just looking for ideas and also have another OTG cable on the way from another place so can see if that works too but not confident. The Tablet is OTG friendly (i downloaded the OTG app and it passed). Cheers, Dom EDIT - I just saw your post above (to Jono - seems like a nearly identical issue) and I've got the new version of Realdash which was uploaded on the 18th April...no new updates available.
×
×
  • Create New...