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ayjayef

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ayjayef last won the day on November 15 2018

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About ayjayef

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  • Birthday 06/12/1967

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  1. (reposting my previous question with more clarity) In RealDash under ECU specific there is: Link ECU: DI 1 Status (from DI1 to DI 12) ...but further down the list the speed inputs are: Link ECU: DI 3 speed Link ECU: DI 4 speed Link ECU: DI 5 speed Link ECU: DI 6 speed ...with no DI1 or DI2 speed listed. Anyone else see D1 and DI2 speed inputs?
  2. Using VVS1? I got the same weirdness. Anyone managed to find DI1 or DI2? I have digital 1+2 configured in the ECU for rear and front wheel speed but RealDash only shows DI3,4,5,6 speed options (which aren't in use). VSS1 and VSS2 are in there but as Ngian found, they produce odd data. Maybe we need to fudge the data in the RealDash garage?
  3. ayjayef

    Wheel Speed Sensors

    Took the ABS disc off (errr, and the brake disc). Put two "bolt, nut, nut" in every 10th hole with loctite. Added 3 custom washers to the sensor, and used a longer bolt. Spun by hand and it reads 10kmh which was about what I could spin by hand on the full 50 teeth so it looks like it's going to work okay. Front looks little trickier but I'll do the same. Thanks for the help fellas. Andy.
  4. (I was just making sure we were talking about the same thing!) That was a good tip setting 20% and 80% in that table, with some fine tweaking I have zero bounce on normal throttle roll-off and snapped shut I sometimes get a poofteenth overrun which is corrected in 0.1-0.2 seconds. PID settings are now P4.20 I 0.102 D 30% Looks like it's going to work much better now. That's heaps for your time.
  5. ayjayef

    Wheel Speed Sensors

    Good one, that clears-up the frequency difference between the help file and the logs. Considering my front wheel wasn't moving when I was on the dyno, the logged 1600Hz on the rear will have less available cycles if the front wheel is also logging. I think I'm back to one tooth or 5/10 if I can get small bolts into the slots and offset the pickup. Thanks
  6. That all makes sense. "temporarily change your AP->TP table" Do you mean the "E-Throttle 1 Target" table?
  7. ayjayef

    Wheel Speed Sensors

    Very clever left-field idea of moving the sensor out from the disc, that might be do able. Gives me something to think about, thanks CJ
  8. ayjayef

    Wheel Speed Sensors

    I was also curious why I logged 1600Hz on a channel that was meant to have a 500Hz limit, wondering if I can rely on the 1600Hz as the "real" limit? Your math helps, thanks. I get it now. 1, 5, 10 or 25 tooth are my options with these ABS discs. At 111 meters a second with a tyre circumference of 2060mm the wheel is doing 54 revs per second and 2700Hz on the sensor with 50 teeth. With 10 teeth its 540Hz and 5 teeth 270Hz but I doubt I could keep the integrity of the disc with just 5 or 10 teeth on it. 1 tooth would be more do able. Frequency divider sounds more like the right option but I doubt I'll get it done in time. I think it falls into the "future project" list now.
  9. That Wiki is tough reading, I did the best I could. Setting I and D to zero and adjusting P till it flutters, then halve it and add I to stabilise then D to clean it up. Resulted in P2.0 I.078 D5 but that wasn't good. With some more tweaking I have ended with P 4.2 I.102 D 35 which has stopped the bounce at return to zero but TPS and APS are a fair way apart. p4.2i0.102p35.llg p2i078d5.llg
  10. It's a race bike, registered for the road but I don't know where you could hope to ride it! I've previously seen and looked closely at the 0.7 seconds that it takes TPS to go from 0 to E-throttle target of 1 but put it down to "must be just the way the ECU does it" Earlier in the week the zero row was set to 1.5 but the idle was over 2000rpm so I dropped the target in the 0-2000 to 1.0 to help keep the idle in check.
  11. ayjayef

    Wheel Speed Sensors

    I have read lots of other threads on wheel speed sensors and them having too many teeth / too high a frequency. Help files says: "Typical values for speed calibration numbers range from about 170 to 280. The maximum frequency the digital input can accept is 500Hz" In my logs I can see 1600Hz before the Fury gives up. Rear: 50 tooth, 650mm diameter = calibration 2441 Front: 50 tooth, 490mm diameter = calibration 3248 That's a LONG way from the 170-280 typical. Adam said in another thread: So I think that's what I'm up to, I don't need ABS but would like the wheel speeds to keep an eye on tyre slip (was getting up to 20% last year) What's the math on removing teeth?
  12. I would have thought we would see the pressure on the MAP logging but this is an easy fix if it's it. I've put that into the target table, gotcha is I can't test without dyno time (not sure I can get on the dyno again before racing 2 weeks). Fingers crossed. At least I have a few things to experiment with if it happens at the track. Thanks heaps Adam and CJ.
  13. So, now I know to look at the TP Error Accumulator% I just logged a pile of 0-100% throttle actions (ignition on, bike not running) and cannot get a single error with snap-shut or slower roll-offs. Which should rule-out any mechanical return action problem in the throttle body. e-throttle-test1.llg
  14. There is plenty of boost prior (300+kpa MAP) but on roll-off the blow-off valve dumps that to 50kpa near instantly (as seen in the first pic). This error comes shortly after. I just got the bike back here (8:30pm) so will have a fiddle tomorrow. Will let you both know what if anything improves it. Thanks for the help.
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