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ayjayef

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About ayjayef

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  • Birthday 06/12/1967

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    Australia

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  1. ayjayef

    Fury - What happens during idle?

    --- EDIT --- Getting it to idle now! Zeroed the ISC Base Position table and just tweaked the zero APS row of the E-Throttle 1 Target table. Still lots of work to be done but it's heading in the right direction.
  2. ayjayef

    Fury - What happens during idle?

    Yeah, it's E85 (prob should have mentioned that). The high number in the master fuel was just me adding a pile of fuel to a petrol base map to get a starting point. Now I understand why the idle was high then leaning out it will be easier to make adjustments and add things like the enrichment to the log to see what's going on. Great tips!
  3. ayjayef

    Fury - What happens during idle?

    Hi CJ, I'll adjust the ignition table, that makes sense. I had planned on multiplying the fuel table to get a better table resolution, thanks for confirming I should. Bingo! - Post Start Enrichment was the bit that I didn't understand. I thought something was adding fuel for a short amount of time but didn't know where to start looking and everywhere I looked wasn't doing anything. Makes way more sense now I know what I'm looking for. I had seen (somewhere) a table/image of the startup process but can't find it now. Thanks heaps for the reply.
  4. ayjayef

    Fury - What happens during idle?

    Fired the bike up, was good to hear it run again. Starts okay from cold, goes to a higher then normal idle and then after 6 seconds the revs start to climb from 1800 to 3000 then 6 seconds later it noses over and stalls. This is a Fury running an internal wideband (which is working) and CLLambda is set at 50C. (so no logged CLLambda adjustments) I was tempted to lower the CLL ECT lockout so it auto adjusts but I suspect I should be fixing the issue instead of hiding it. Can someone please make a suggestion of where to start tweaking?
  5. ayjayef

    Testing smart coils

    (red faced) - Yeah, that would do it! Coils didn't come with any info, google wan't much help but I found a picture of connectors. Dumb mistake. (still red faced) Thanks Adam.
  6. ayjayef

    Testing smart coils

    Hey all, I'm going around in circles and I'm sure someone here can help me make some sense. Trying to test a Nissan R35 smart coil on a G4+ Fury. I can hook a dumb coil up and get a tiny spark using the PCLink ignition test (no igniter) so I know the Fury trigger and the wiring from the ECU is okay but I can't for the life of me get a test spark on the smart coil. Picture below of the coil, ground and power are being run direct from the battery (using awg18 wire), white runs to Link-A10 (Ign4) and there is a alligator clip connected to the ground electrode and engine ground (not obvious in my crappy picture) The pulse on the white wire, is 10Hz as the test should be. Any ideas why it's not working? Andy.
  7. ayjayef

    Bosch MAP Sensor 0281002316

    Good stuff, that clears it up. Thanks!
  8. ayjayef

    Bosch MAP Sensor 0281002316

    Matey, I'm not sure about anything... I've got to open my wallet to check what my name is most days! I was working off the factory boost gauge that shows MAP in the plenum and it never goes under 100%. Backing off, the vacuum opens the wastegate and the plenum is at ambient pressure (I guess). Once the wastegate is closed (ie: back on the throttle) the boost is always positive (ie: idle is 101% on the factory gauge) so I'm assuming I'm never under 100Kpa The Link 4 bar sensor is 20Kpa-400Kpa (I think I read that somewhere)? So is 20Kpa okay but 50Kpa too high? Andy.
  9. ayjayef

    Bosch MAP Sensor 0281002316

    Found this thread while researching the same sensor. Can you please explain why 50-400Kpa is no good for a petrol engine MAP? I'm looking for a similar one for a supercharged engine that's always positive pressure so should not be under 100Kpa absolute. I'm confused!
  10. ayjayef

    Fury - Internal Wideband extend the wiring

    Nice tip Ducie54. I was pulling the 12v+ from a spare "Power supply to ECU (from Battery)" in the factory loom. The heavy gauge wire showed a good 12v source when ignition was on but as you suggested, under wideband heater load it dropped voltage. Wired it directly into the fusebox and it works a treat. Heats to temperature in 5 seconds odd, giving believable AFR changes with a bit of butane blown past the sensor. I'm a bit surprised that the Link status Lambda 1 Error = OK even if the voltage is low. I tested with the 12v disconnected and it will still show "OK" as the status which is a bit misleading. Good to know the symptoms and how to troubleshoot em. Thanks for your help.
  11. ayjayef

    Fury - Internal Wideband extend the wiring

    Sourced 2 of those above sockets and a plug. Used one of the sockets at the ECU and made an extension lead to get to the sensor. All looks good and buzzes-out well. Should I see heater temperature and Lambda in PCLink without the engine running? Internal Lambda 1 - Sensor Control = ON, Run When Stalled = Yes Lambda 1 Error - OK Lambda 1 Status - Calibration Lambda 1 Temp (C) - 0-2 It stays like that for 20 seconds then changes to: Lambda 1 Error - 16 Heated Too Long Lambda 1 Status - Diagnostics Lambda 1 Temp (C) - 0-2 It makes sense that after some time of not getting to temperature it would turn the heating off but was expecting that I would see some heating in that first 20 seconds with the ignition on. Is there a way of testing this before engine start? Log 2018-09-8 3;05;17 pm.llg
  12. ayjayef

    ECU Fault Code 74: Analog 5V Supply Error

    Bingo. As you all know, intermittent faults can be a nightmare. Happily found this one though so am posing the punchline in case someone else finds this thread with a search. Carefully soldering and heat-shrinking all the 86 pins on the 3 factory connectors I managed to dribble a solder spatter into the middle of the plug (doh!) It was small enough not to notice, big enough to cause a 70 ohm "short" intermittently so it got past my previous conductivity testing. I'm just glad I hadn't filled it with epoxy yet! Thanks heaps Adam for the help in isolating my oops from the ECU. Andy.
  13. ayjayef

    ECU Fault Code 74: Analog 5V Supply Error

    Good news - that was a simple test that worked. ECU now shows "5V Out (V) 5.00" and I can also measure 5V+ at that pin (A32). Now to go through the wiring again to see what I missed last time.
  14. ayjayef

    ECU Fault Code 74: Analog 5V Supply Error

    Thanks Adam, I'll test that tonight when I get back. yeah, the superseal connectors are good for removing a pin, that's about the only thing I didn't think of in my frustration. So for future reference (and I'll make a test loom) what was the minimum wiring needed to fire-up the Fury?
  15. I'm wiring up a Fury and all was going well (see: before.jpg) and next morning, without any changes and nothing touched I turned the ECU back on and it looked like this (see: after.jpg). Faults are: [10:33:03 AM] ECU Fault Code 74: Analog 5V Supply Error [10:33:01 AM] ECU Fault Code 73: Aux 9/10 Supply Error [10:32:59 AM] ECU Fault Code 47: An Temp 2 below Error Low value [10:32:57 AM] ECU Fault Code 44: An Temp 1 below Error Low value [10:32:54 AM] ECU Fault Code 35: An Volt 9 below Error Low value [10:32:54 AM] ECU Fault Code 32: An Volt 8 below Error Low value [10:32:52 AM] ECU Fault Code 11: An Volt 1 below Error Low value So it seems that Fault 74 is causing all the sensors to error which makes sense. It also seems that Fault 74 is because 5V is shorted to ground. I removed the sensors one by one (no difference) and checked the wiring (no problems found). Then I removed the Link A&B connectors from the ECU to see if there was anything connected to ground (Link A 25,34 and Link B 25,34 are the only pins earthed and they were meant to be) So I can't find any problems in the wiring and am starting to wonder if the ECU has a problem with the 5V. What is the minimum wiring needed to run the ECU to test the ECU 5V channel? Link A5 (14V+) Link A25,34 (Ground) ...and then test the 5V+ on Link A32?
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