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ayjayef

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Everything posted by ayjayef

  1. @Adamw = Legend Not only did you reply at what must have been 1am in NZ (I appreciate that) but of course you were correct. Pressing ENTER on the trigger offset field "set" the 241 value and it runs. Doesn't idle and I suspect the crank, warm-up and post-start enrichment values are out but now it's running I have something to work with. I'm happy to see a screen of green with no errors it happily revving to a clean, strong 8000 (about as high as I would ever rev without load). It doesn't want to start once warm (ECT 49C) but again, I'm sure I can work on that too. Thank-you very much for the excellent support!
  2. Adjusting trigger 2 arming threshold helped somewhat. Was: 0rpm = 0.3 and 1000rpm = 0.5 It's trying harder to start (popping every 3-4 seconds). "Triggers/Calibrate/Set Base Timing" shows the trigger offset at -199, I tried to change it to 241 and it "ignores" the change and continues to show -199 after pressing done. Log-h2-a.llg
  3. Thanks Adam, I'll give those things a shot and see if it shows more promise.
  4. Supercharged 4cyl bike, running E85 and Fury. Have rebuilt the engine and replaced the throttle bodies on the bike and just can't get it to fire. I've calibrated the APS and TPS on the new throttle and it looks like it's working well, fuel is good, hung a plug out the side and it sparks. I also tried adding some more crank enrichment fuel with no change. I'm lost. I know it will be something simple and hoping that someone can help. I've attached the log (pretty empty) and a cranking trigger scope. At best I get the occasional fire but nothing like it wants to run. Log-h2.llg TriggerScope-h2.llg
  5. I was going to read them before downloading the 100mb file and installing it but I'll just install it on another computer first. Thanks for the reply.
  6. The PC Link Downloads has a link to the G4+ release notes but it's pointing at the release notes for the G4X Is there a link to the G4+ release notes somewhere that I could read before upgrading?
  7. (reposting my previous question with more clarity) In RealDash under ECU specific there is: Link ECU: DI 1 Status (from DI1 to DI 12) ...but further down the list the speed inputs are: Link ECU: DI 3 speed Link ECU: DI 4 speed Link ECU: DI 5 speed Link ECU: DI 6 speed ...with no DI1 or DI2 speed listed. Anyone else see D1 and DI2 speed inputs?
  8. Using VVS1? I got the same weirdness. Anyone managed to find DI1 or DI2? I have digital 1+2 configured in the ECU for rear and front wheel speed but RealDash only shows DI3,4,5,6 speed options (which aren't in use). VSS1 and VSS2 are in there but as Ngian found, they produce odd data. Maybe we need to fudge the data in the RealDash garage?
  9. Took the ABS disc off (errr, and the brake disc). Put two "bolt, nut, nut" in every 10th hole with loctite. Added 3 custom washers to the sensor, and used a longer bolt. Spun by hand and it reads 10kmh which was about what I could spin by hand on the full 50 teeth so it looks like it's going to work okay. Front looks little trickier but I'll do the same. Thanks for the help fellas. Andy.
  10. (I was just making sure we were talking about the same thing!) That was a good tip setting 20% and 80% in that table, with some fine tweaking I have zero bounce on normal throttle roll-off and snapped shut I sometimes get a poofteenth overrun which is corrected in 0.1-0.2 seconds. PID settings are now P4.20 I 0.102 D 30% Looks like it's going to work much better now. That's heaps for your time.
  11. Good one, that clears-up the frequency difference between the help file and the logs. Considering my front wheel wasn't moving when I was on the dyno, the logged 1600Hz on the rear will have less available cycles if the front wheel is also logging. I think I'm back to one tooth or 5/10 if I can get small bolts into the slots and offset the pickup. Thanks
  12. That all makes sense. "temporarily change your AP->TP table" Do you mean the "E-Throttle 1 Target" table?
  13. Very clever left-field idea of moving the sensor out from the disc, that might be do able. Gives me something to think about, thanks CJ
  14. I was also curious why I logged 1600Hz on a channel that was meant to have a 500Hz limit, wondering if I can rely on the 1600Hz as the "real" limit? Your math helps, thanks. I get it now. 1, 5, 10 or 25 tooth are my options with these ABS discs. At 111 meters a second with a tyre circumference of 2060mm the wheel is doing 54 revs per second and 2700Hz on the sensor with 50 teeth. With 10 teeth its 540Hz and 5 teeth 270Hz but I doubt I could keep the integrity of the disc with just 5 or 10 teeth on it. 1 tooth would be more do able. Frequency divider sounds more like the right option but I doubt I'll get it done in time. I think it falls into the "future project" list now.
  15. That Wiki is tough reading, I did the best I could. Setting I and D to zero and adjusting P till it flutters, then halve it and add I to stabilise then D to clean it up. Resulted in P2.0 I.078 D5 but that wasn't good. With some more tweaking I have ended with P 4.2 I.102 D 35 which has stopped the bounce at return to zero but TPS and APS are a fair way apart. p4.2i0.102p35.llg p2i078d5.llg
  16. It's a race bike, registered for the road but I don't know where you could hope to ride it! I've previously seen and looked closely at the 0.7 seconds that it takes TPS to go from 0 to E-throttle target of 1 but put it down to "must be just the way the ECU does it" Earlier in the week the zero row was set to 1.5 but the idle was over 2000rpm so I dropped the target in the 0-2000 to 1.0 to help keep the idle in check.
  17. I have read lots of other threads on wheel speed sensors and them having too many teeth / too high a frequency. Help files says: "Typical values for speed calibration numbers range from about 170 to 280. The maximum frequency the digital input can accept is 500Hz" In my logs I can see 1600Hz before the Fury gives up. Rear: 50 tooth, 650mm diameter = calibration 2441 Front: 50 tooth, 490mm diameter = calibration 3248 That's a LONG way from the 170-280 typical. Adam said in another thread: So I think that's what I'm up to, I don't need ABS but would like the wheel speeds to keep an eye on tyre slip (was getting up to 20% last year) What's the math on removing teeth?
  18. I would have thought we would see the pressure on the MAP logging but this is an easy fix if it's it. I've put that into the target table, gotcha is I can't test without dyno time (not sure I can get on the dyno again before racing 2 weeks). Fingers crossed. At least I have a few things to experiment with if it happens at the track. Thanks heaps Adam and CJ.
  19. So, now I know to look at the TP Error Accumulator% I just logged a pile of 0-100% throttle actions (ignition on, bike not running) and cannot get a single error with snap-shut or slower roll-offs. Which should rule-out any mechanical return action problem in the throttle body. e-throttle-test1.llg
  20. There is plenty of boost prior (300+kpa MAP) but on roll-off the blow-off valve dumps that to 50kpa near instantly (as seen in the first pic). This error comes shortly after. I just got the bike back here (8:30pm) so will have a fiddle tomorrow. Will let you both know what if anything improves it. Thanks for the help.
  21. Wow, thanks CJ. I didn't know about the TP error accumulator, makes more sense now. The throttle bodies are working fine, clean with no sludge and return is strong so PID settings makes sense Current PID is 7.00, 0.145, 60.00 What's a bit more aggressive? Fuel pressure: 1) lines might be too small, but the logged pressure is at the pump. 2) pump is 320/lph, should be plenty for a 1 litre motor. 3) battery voltage is logged at the ECU okay, I'll see if I can get a voltage reading off the pump when I can get back on the dyno.
  22. Hi Clever people! I was on the dyno today and ran into 3 problems. Background: Link Fury, Supercharged bike running E85 First one: ECU Fault Code 70 E-Throttle Min %DC Limit ECU Fault Code 73 Aux 9/10 Supply Error Engine speed limited to 1800 I got these when rolling off after WOT power-run. Key cycle fixed it but it came up again a few runs later too. I don't understand the Min %DC settings, can someone please shine some light? Second problem: Using a pressure regulated fuel pump (on AN 2) it shows idle pressure at 394kpa and it ramps up with the plenum pressure to 495kpa at 9900rpm then even though the MAP keeps increasing the fuel noses-over and drops pressure to 350kpa (obviously also gets lean) and then returns to "normal" when I roll off. You can see the AN2 dip in the middle of the attached picture. Tested the pump separate using a syringe (to replicate positive pressure on the diaphragm) and it works fine from 250-500kpa so I don't think it's the pump. Battery voltage is fine before, during and after the pressure dip. I can't find a MAP limit or any other limit that might do this but maybe I've missed something? Third problem: It's hard to start, sometimes. From cold it's pretty reliable but with some temperature in the engine it's often hard to start and I've even had to use some throttle to get it to fire (which is weird on EFI). Once warmed-up and the enrichment have ended the idle is neat but I've got something wrong in there. The fact it will start with a bit of throttle might be a clue but I don't know if its starting because the throttle adds more fuel or more air. I bet it's embarrassingly simple. The bike is making good power, 285hp at 10,000 and will make plenty more if we can get the pump to give it some fuel in the higher range. Thanks for reading! Andy. 2017 Kawasaki H2-028.pclr Log 2019-02-14 2;48;29 pm.llg
  23. Made the suggested changes to the Fuel table axis, load source set to MAP and open loop Lambda table turned on (still can't open the help file for it though) I had some ramp-run dyno graphs from last year with the factory ECU and... 6,000rpm - 50ft/lbs torque 11,000rpm - 135ft/lbs torque So I multiplied the 11k column by 2.7 and interpolated between the known good 6,000 and the fat 11,000 Sure made a funny looking fuel map but I guess once back on the dyno it will take shape from there. (tough getting dyno time in a town with 1 dyno at Christmas when everyone gets their bike out of the shed)
  24. Well that answers that then! I should have the table roughed-out and back on the dyno in a week odd to start some ramp runs into the "unknown". Thanks Adam, MAP it is.
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