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About BigBoiMR2

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  • Birthday 02/20/1994

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    Vancouver, BC, Canada
  1. It was a faulty sensor, AEM replaced it under warranty and everything is working correctly now.
  2. The issue seemed to be getting worse, the sensor used to read normal after first start in the morning until about 30 minutes of driving, but today it didnt read correct at any point. I've removed the sensor now while logging and it still shows 55 psi, if I unplug it the reading drops to 0 and plugging it back in it spikes to 55psi again, so it seems that the sensor is the issue. Thanks for all of your help and suggestions, I'll be trying a new sensor when I can and I'll report back if I have any more issues!
  3. This photo shows when the manifold pressure is high enough and the true fuel pressure rises above the sensor reading it does track the fuel pressure change. But the fuel pressure sensor wont read below the level it rose to. Here is my tune file https://drive.google.com/open?id=11MN5eOtoGlmcGjYPoq5eDKvGpMTDPsmx Here is the Log from the most recent screenshot https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iB1gyl1of2LDCfKXT0W6wybrZRP3wEBa Thanks
  4. It seemed to be reading accurately. with the mechanical gauge once the fuel pressure dropped the car would run lean at idle, since the ECU wasn't able to adjust for it. Now with the sensor it is thinking more fuel is going into the engine with the high sensor readings so again the engine is leaning out at idle LOL. After first start and warm up it idles on target until the readings go too high. In this photo I have the ecu fuel pressure calculation based off base pressure with MAP reference so the sensor reading is not affecting my AFR. The area I have circled you can see the Pressure reading is high and it isn't changing, even as the manifold pressure changes. when the sensor is working properly even the slightest map change will register a fuel pressure change as it should. The Fuel pressure regulator, rail, lines and injectors have all been replaced and ruled out as issues.
  5. Yes, I had a mechanical gauge mounted in the same spot for a few months and the fuel pressure would actually drop off a little after a long drive in the summer, I've heat wrapped a few fuel parts to take care of that issue, but wanted the pressure sensor to help keep fuelling on target even if the pressure drops a little. Another thing that confirms the fuel pressure is not actually rising is that when the sensor reads high, the engine will idle lean as it thinks there is more fuel passing through the injectors than there actually is. When the sensor is reading high, around 54psi and idling lean, If I manually set the fuel pressure to 43.5 psi it will idle on target again.
  6. I've had the sensor off the car, and tested it with a air compressor, plus it does work for a while until it seems like a charge builds up and affects the minimum reading. Could the sensor have a bad ground that may not be properly discharging the voltage? I'll hopefully get a clear log tonight so I can show what I'm talking about more clearly.
  7. I was looking through my saved logs and I dont seem to have any good examples saved, I will get a better log and upload it when I can. The issue mostly shows up at idle, the sensor will be reading say 54psi at idle and causing the car to idle really lean, if i change the fuel pressure setting to map based with 43.5 psi base it will correct the afr. Once it starts to read 54psi, it will run lean at light throttle also until the actual fuel pressure reaches 54psi, then it will track on target again. Thanks for your response
  8. This Log is after arriving home, then turning off Closed Loop Lambda and watching the output fluctuate at idle https://drive.google.com/file/d/14nE2p50g3HdDnDHS-Qd0hZPmQA2lJUzi/view?usp=sharing
  9. power runs.llgHello, I recently installed an AEM Fuel Pressure sensor (30-2130-100) I wired the Sensor to AN volt 3, 5V Power from the ECU to the sensor, and the ground to the sensor ground on the ECU. I used new lengths of wire and crimped on new pins and spliced into the power and sensor ground at the ecu side. The sensor was reading properly and I had no issues, it would react to changes instantly. After driving for maybe 30 minutes the sensor voltage rises to a point where the sensor is reading above the actual fuel pressure. once it rises past, the reading will be stable at say 50psi until the actual fuel pressure surpasses 50 psi, then the sensor will read the correct pressure until pressure drops below this "floor". the floor seems to slowly rise up to about 54psi max. setting the readout to 0-5V shows the same behaviour. the calibrations are correct it seems that the sensor wire is picking up voltage over time. If i unplug the sensor the voltage drops to .20 but as soon as the pins make contact it will jump back up to the voltage it was at. It seems to discharge once the car sits for a couple hours but short periods of time it holds the voltage. The car is a 1988 toyota MR2 with a 3SGTE. the Ignitor is mounted to the transmission as I was getting too much interference to connect to the ECU when it was installed on the Firewall. Other sensors do not seem to be affected by any rising voltage either, The MAP and IAT sensors continue to real correct values after long drives. the ECU is grounded to the factory point on the Intake Manifold. Edit: The 5V output is stable at 4.97V the whole time. Hopefully it is something simple I am overlooking, I have attached a log with it working correctly. I will upload a log with the issue present also. Thanks for the help power runs.llg
  10. I couldn't wait for the morning, Just got back from testing with the laptop logging in the trunk. the ECU disconnected maybe once in the trunk and a couple times while I was holding the laptop so those could have been cord movement . Watching my boost/afr gauge to stay in the cell ranges, then pulling over and using the mixture map to tune the fuel map worked great. bonus to this is no distraction in the cabin but the downsides are obvious. Everything seems to be working well now. Thanks again for your help.
  11. I'll test it some more in the morning without the extension. Thanks for the suggestion.
  12. Hi Adam, I am using BKR7E spark plugs. I was using a usb 3.0 extension but I am also having the issue without any extension connected directly to the supplied USB cable. The USB connector is the only non OEM connection to the ECU Thanks for trying to help me again!
  13. I just reset the ECU to factory settings and made a new map on software and firmware It seemed to correct the issue, I was able to connect with the engine running and start road tuning the map from scratch again. 15 minutes or so later it disconnected and now it is constantly disconnecting again.
  14. Hello, I am running a Gen2 3SGTE in an AW11 with the ST205 PNP G4+ ECU. I was able to setup the ecu and get it idling as well as tuned in the cruise area of my map. I am now experiencing terrible connection issues that seem to be getting worse. I have no issues when the engine is not running. The ECU will connect to my PC initially and I can monitor at idle but recently if I try to change the fuel map the ECU will disconnect. The ECU will also consistently disconnect under light load while driving, this seems to be more frequent if I have PC logging running but will still happen within a minute or two without PC logging. once the ECU disconnects I can occasionally reconnect by pressing F3 but it will disconnect again quite quickly and then give me an error message about the com port. unplugging and replugging the USB will occasionally work but not for long. If I do manage to reconnect and try to download the log file from the ECU it will go through the download process but come up with an error message reading "Unable to save log file due to corrupt flash pages" My laptop Is running windows 8.1 x32 bit, I have tried another laptop running Windows 7 X64 bit Initially The ECU was on Firmware and I was using the new PCLink 5.6.6. I fully uninstalled it and the USB drivers, I then downloaded and installed along with the USB Drivers. I have tried to restore the ECU to factory settings and I have updated the firmware to I have read through the connection help file and checked off all the boxes, I have cleaned and checked all of the grounds, tried different USB settings and I am stumped at this point. I have attached a log file that was running with the engine idling and then disconnected. I have also attached my current map file. I am probably overlooking something and I hope someone can point it out to me. Thanks ECU Disconnect.llg Toyota MR2 MK1.5 Modelled Fuel.pclr
  15. Ok, pin 71 receives power from the Circut Opening Relay, which gets power from the EFI relay so I will check the voltage along the path and find where it is dropping. Thanks for the quick replies and helpful information, I'll update once I've found the cause.
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