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BeallJK

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BeallJK last won the day on April 29

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  1. A little update. This issue has come back where the car will be idle'ing perfectly fine and all of the sudden the car just shuts off. I've noticed a few things as I was watching the computer while the issues occurred. In my most recent occurrence the car would hit ECT of 180, go rich and die out. I initially thought it was something to do with my post start but didnt make complete sense as the car was out of Post Start. Then checked Warm-Up Enrichment. This was my next logical progression as the car might be looking for a little fuel adjustment? so I copied my values from the cells where the car was idle'ing fine but no change to the dying at 180degrees ECT. This didn't make complete sense bc the car was dying rich and copying over cells from the warm-up map would mean it'd be adding fuel. I was poking around in my fan settings and I that I had them set at 180 degrees (which is relatively low but I run a single 10" fan and I give it a little bit of a head start). I adjusted the engine fan activation temp up to 190d and the going-rich and dying out followed the 190d temperatures I set the fans to. What was strange the Link has Fan #1, Fan #2, and Fan #3. While OEM only has Fan #1 and #2 but the car would die even if Fan #3 was trigger by the ECT rising. Did a little poking around, unplugged the fan, and the go rich and dying continued. Back in the PCLink Software (embarrassingly, right in front of my face) my Idle Gain Trim was set to 2ms for the engine fan. The fan activation temp would activate the fan and the Idle Gain would add 2ms of additional fuel, run my mixture rich and it'd kill the engine. I set the idle gain trim to zero and the engine idles like you'd expect.
  2. Thank you Adam - very good information and I appreciate your time. Yea - I'm looped in with HPA. Got a VIP package a few years back and try to consume all their content. I'll check out that webinar or course.
  3. 2020-03-09 Knock Setup.pclrHey guys - Was looking for a quick confirmation on the Knock Setup within my G4+ Running a 350z VQDE and a mild boost setup running pump gas with the goal around 14psi and a race fuel with a goal of around 20psi. I understand the concept with the Knock Target table but as far as each 'Knk Ign Trim Cyl#' tables go, to confirm and so I dont make a dumb mistake and I didnt see this covered from a search. Will the 'Knk Ign Trim Cyl#' table will take negative numbers to retard timing and positive numbers to advance timing? For instance: when activated, a value of -3 in a given load & RPM cell will retard timing while a value of 3 would advance my timing after the threshold in the Knock Target Table is exceeded? For example: If my Main Ignition Table was 26 degrees BTDC timing and I experienced knock above my Knock Target Table threshold, and it's corresponding value was -3degrees, the Link would dial my timing down to 23 degrees for that particular cell?? when calculating my knock frequency (OEM piston diameter is 95.5mm and using the formula [(1800) / (3.1416 * dia)] = Frequency) 1800 / (3.1416 * 95.5), 1800 / 300.02 = 5.9996, my Freq Channel should be set to 6khz?? It was defaulted at 4k to 10k hz. Are there good threshold values to use for the 3.5 VQDE? The G4 did have default values but I just wanted to double check. Is there any reason to advance timing in a knock event? As always - thank you for your help!
  4. BeallJK

    350z traction control

    Dave - if it's one thing I wish the G4+ had, it'd be an OEM replica or as-close-as-it-can-be to OEM traction control / VDC model. I'm humbled to say, the OEM traction control / VDC has saved my ass more times than I'm prepared to admit. To your knowledge - Is there a thread here that has a good traction control setup I could borrow? as-always, thank you!
  5. I had ECT sensor issues and it was an error-setting in the pullup resistor menu. I believe Adam helped me with it.
  6. Thank you Adam - I greatly appreciate your time and response! I will work in that direction! I am fairly confident that the AEM UEGO gauges are matching what the Link is seeing. One 'lost in translation' is the UEGOs are in AFR while the Link is in Lambda but they dont seem far off. I'll switch the Link over to AFR to confirm.
  7. Thank you Adam - any insight is greatly appreciated!
  8. Hey guys - I'm at that point where the car starts up and runs like you'd expect after an engine rebuild and a turbo system swap. I ran into an issue this past weekend where the car died after about 19minute of just idle'ing in the driveway. I had the car started, idle'ing, and just running so I could listen, monitor, watch, etc before I get the car out on the road for basic data logging / mixture map fuel tuning / etc. shortly after the 19minute mark (19minute 10seconds) the car's idle slowly decreased from ~900rpm to 0rpm over about a 15sec to 20sec time window. This is the second time this has happened. I don't think I'm out of fuel(as I have fuel pressure) and I speculate this has something to do with a coolant temperature comp table - but I'm rather new to Link and my tuning knowledge base is elementary. Any insight or comments on my tune are welcome I thank you in-advance! Attached is my current tune 2019-11-17 Revision3 and my data log is too big (at 7.5mb) but I can email or dropbox if that'd help or if there is a way to shink-down the data log please let me know! 2019-11-17 Revision3.pclr
  9. BeallJK

    G4+ on Nissan 350z

    I dont know the cabin wire harness as well as I know the engine bay harness but I am fairly certain the oil pressure sensor does not funnel through the ECU. Are you looking to use the 0-5v signal from the sensor to feed the ECU with a oil pressure fail safe?
  10. Right on! I live in a county that doesn't smog test. What BB said - Mine is approximately 12" before the TB and 24" after the IC
  11. Where are you located? I'm assuming you're not under any sort of emissions control for license / registration? I did something similar on my 350z/z33 where I'm using wideband o2 input, eliminated my OEM narrow bands but I stubbed off the connection with deutsch connector just incase I have to have them re-installed. +1 to the IAT. In the 350z realm its common to ditch the OEM MAF and use the on-board MAP (of your aftermarket platform) and then wire-in a standard GM IAT thermistor.
  12. A little bit of an update - retested injectors and sparkplugs on cylinders #1 and #3, swapped aforementioned #1 and #3 and it appears to be functioning as intended. This may have been something as simple as a loose connection. Thanks again guys!
  13. I don't know your platform but on my z33, also after a harness rebuild, engine rebuild, and different turbo setup I had starting issues. Cranked fine, I had fuel pressure and I checked/double checked multiple times along the way of the harness rebuild and it ended up being my camshaft position sensors.
  14. Thanks for the response Adam. I haven't yet but I'm pointed in that direction!
  15. Hey guys I'm ironing out some issues enroute to getting my setup back on the road. Things are going well and I've had great support from Link overall and really liking the G4+. I have revamped my setup from a greddy 18g twin kit to now a custom front mount/reversed long tube header single turbo. I can start, idle and throttle-blip the car fine and it behaves like you'd expect. I have 8 to 10 idle sessions of typically less than 1minute per session thus far. No actual road miles on it yet. Just start ups to get the cooling system bled, ensure oil is flowing, etc. When I shut the car down 5 of my 6 exhaust runners are hot or too hot to touch (these are cylinders #2 through #6). Cylinder #1 is room temperature. I have checked continuity between the coil and the ECU and between the injector and ECU (both test fine) I have performed both the coil / spark plug test and injector test (using link's test protocol and a mechanics stethoscope) with coil/plug and injector installed (all tested fine about 3 weeks ago) I have pulled cylinder #1 spark plug, connected to the coil, and touching the chassis and visually checked the spark Upcoming tests: I am in the process of testing the injector outside the engine w/Links injector test I am going to swap Cylinder #1 coil & injector with Cylinder #3 coil & injector to see if the problem follows the injector. Reload a older known-good map. My question is - is there a place in the Link where you can turn on / turn off individual injectors? For some reason my ECT temp sensor was turned off (no idea how this happened) and is this simply a circumstance where injector #1 got turned off by accident?? Much appreciated & grateful for your help current map is attached For reference: (upside-down header / turbo setup) about what it looked like a few weeks ago JKB ST MAP 2019-08-04.pclr
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