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  1. Thanks for all your help! Im from San Francisco, California
  2. Good to know. I took a few logs of battery voltage. 1 at 50hz, and another at 100hz. Looks like the ecu Measured voltage isn't dropping below 10volts. Where does the logger get its voltage reading? Same place as the Main relay MOSFET? So if the ECU is only getting 10v, then so is the MOSFET? I'm basically running a stock M50 In an E30 with a stock rear battery. Cranking bat voltage 50hz.llg batt voltage log 100hz.llg
  3. So I checked the voltage between pin 55&56 and I saw the voltage dropping to around 9.5volts initially, then jump up to 10+ volts. I tried 2 different multi-meters and they both registered pretty slowly. The voltage could be dropping alot lower for a instance, causing the MOSFET to drop out. All of my grounds are super solid. Is there any easy way for me to test the MOSFET in the ECU without breaking open the ECU? Or would i have to send in my ECU to get checked. Heres a trigger scope.
  4. Ok. Ill try this and report back. This makes sense. It still seems to take longer than it should. One last question, do these ECUs supply spark before syncronization? If so, the pre-crank prime settings should help me get a quicker startup. I haven't had much sucess using pre crank prime and getting a smooth startup so I turned it off. Long crank main relay manually triggered..llg M52 NA 4 door Daily.pclr
  5. Hi Adam, So I tried grounding the main relay manually and I got the ecu to stay connected during cranking. If there is a permanent wiring solution to fix this, that would be great. Still curious why the ECU takes so long to sync the triggers. Based on this log, I noticed that fueling doesn't start until the ecu sees RPM. As soon as fueling starts, the car starts instantly. Is there any way to reprogram the ECU to start fueling as soon as a signal from Trigger 1 is present? I would love to get a quick, OEM like startup from my car, much like the stock ECU. Thanks for all of your help everyone!
  6. Logging was set to full time for this log. My car consistently takes this long to start.
  7. Sorry for an off topic thread, but I think i've found a glitch in your website. Every time I login here, I have to reset my password. This is a little annoying Just wanted to bring this to your attention. Thanks
  8. Based on this ECU log, I don't see any voltage drops before the engine has started. However, I cant display a cranking area on the log. The very begining of the log is me turning on the ignition and waiting a few seconds for my Computer to connect to the ECU. It looks like my car starts up instantly on this log, but it actually cranks for about 2 seconds before starting up every time. The main reason i'm trying to fix this communication problem is so I can figure out why this thing takes so long to start up. As soon as the ECU syncs the triggers, it starts up instantly. What i'm really trying to figure out is if my long cranking issue is caused by the Triggers not syncing right away or maybe my ECU is losing power for a moment. My main relay gets power directly from the battery in the trunk with a seperate wire. Not on the starter post. long trigger sync log.llg
  9. Hi everyone, i noticed that during cranking, the USB connection between my ECU and laptop is lost. It reconnects in a couple seconds if I have Auto connect on. Just curious why this happens. Is the USB connection somehow wired into the unloader relay circuit? Not a huge deal, but it’s a little annoying trying to log cranking and post start parameters. I have an M50 in my e30 running a G4+ PNP. Thanks
  10. Oh really? I was under the impression that Hall sensors are superior in every way. Hm. Im running the M50 Hall cam sensor which is currently working really well for me. I never actually had a trigger error. In fact my car is actually running really well! I was just having issues calibrating the crank trigger. The untouched M50 PNP trigger settings showed 30degrees BTDC on my timing light at idle and drifted to around 90degrees BTDC when free revving to 4000-5000rpm. I changed the trigger offset on PC Link and was able to get the idle timing to about 0 degrees on the timing light. The car still ran, just felt very sluggish and felt like it was lacking timing. It built boost really easily free-revving and lost a good amount of throttle response. Is it possible that I have a bad timing light? Im using a Centech harbor freight one and clipped the lead around the green wire on my Cylinder 1 Coil pack. Ill post a trigger scope later today!
  11. So, for wiring in a Hall crank sensor onto an M50 harness. The M50 ECU Plug has 2pins for the VR crank sensor. Pin 16 is Crank sensor + Signal and Pin 43 is Crank sensor - Signal For a 3 wire Hall sensor, Do I just supply 5v and ground to common sensor supply wires and send the Hall signal through Pin 16 on the ECU Plug and leave Pin 43 Alone? Also planning on using shield cable and grounding the ECU end of the wire to a common shield ground pin. Sound correct?
  12. Sorry I should have been more clear about the VR sensor. My main point of this post was to see if anyone has used this hall effect sensor and how to set it up. Since I have a perfectly good one hanging out on the side of my block. Anyways, When I was doing the trigger calibration with a timing light. I had the timing locked at 0 degrees and hooked up a timing light to read off the green wire on the Cylinder 1 coil pack. I noticed that the timing seems to be around 30 degrees BTDC when looking at the trigger wheel. I Raised the trigger offset value gradually until I saw the timing at around 0 degrees on my timing light. Oddly enough, when reving up the car to check for timing drift, the motor started backfiring out the intake and started building way more boost when free-reving, almost like the timing was now excessively retarded. The timing also drifted to what looked like 90 degrees on the timing light. This made me question my timing light. Aside from all of that, I wanted to use the hall sensor on my block since they provide a cleaner signal.
  13. Hi everyone, I have a M52 engine that I converted from OBD2 to OBD1 so I could run a Link G4+ PNP. Today I was having trouble Calibrating the M50 OBD1 VR crank trigger on the front of the timing cover. Since I have an OBD2 block which still has the stock Hall effect Crank Sensor on the side of the block, I was wondering if anyone has used this sensor instead of the OBD1 sensor on the timing cover. I think the rear trigger wheel on the M52 crankshaft has a 60-2 tooth design just like the M50, except smaller diameter and uses a Hall effect sensor instead of a VR sensor. If anyone out there can help me configure this, that would be great! Thanks in advance!
  14. That would make sense! I actually turned off my Pre-crank prime because I didn't want any fuel getting in there unless i'm trying to crank the motor. It does make sense to build up a small fuel film on the intake manifold before cranking. I just don't like the idea of the fuel injectors running every time I turn the key on, to put up/down a window, to upload a tune. etc. I will try logging the trigger parameters in Runtime values and see if maybe it takes that long for the triggers to be Sync'd, but I honestly think something is holding up the injectors for a few sec. My old VEMS ecu used to start this same motor instantly! I took a log today datalogging the Injector Duty cycle and Engine speed and noticed that the engine speed isn't reconized while cranking. The RPM on the log read 0 until the Injector duty cycle jumped up. ( I also forgot to save this log, not that it was very useful) I will attach my tune so you can check out my settings to see if maybe anything is conflicting with this. M52 2.8 NA.pclr
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