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About Greenday694

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  1. I am trying to wire my G4 Plus to receive a signal from one of my front wheel sensors. The rear wheel speed sensor is already wired by way of the main harness. I have the expansion Loom. It has DI7 and DI8. But after looking in the PC link software, it states that digital input 1 to 6 can be used for frequency measurement, speed signals. 7 + 8 are you for Edge detection. Right now DI8 bears being used for clutch pedal sensor. How can I hook up a front wheel sensor to use traction control?
  2. Maybe I'm Wrong about what solve my problem then? When it was set at 1200 RPMs, and I was running the engine below 2000 it would buck and jerk sometimes violently and the ignition timing was jumping all over the place. Once I lowered it to 300 RPMs everything was smooth.
  3. Figured I would give a little update to help out other people. My low RPM bucking problem is solved. In my idle speed control settings, the tune I started with had RPM lockout set at 1200 RPMs. I did lower this a little at first. Didn't seem to make much of a difference. Then I learned that this is not the actual engine RPMs. It is the RPMs above my base idle setting of 800. 1200 + 800 equals 2000. So Below 2000 RPMs but ECU was switching back and forth between the idle map and the main map. I changed RPM lockout to 300 RPMs, and it runs a lot better. I might bring it down a little more and se
  4. Back again. I did set up my base timing, it was off 6 degrees. Then went back and reset my VVT. Definitely better. But still can't find anybody with a dyno that will do my car with this ECU. So I'm still struggling to get the timing Maps set up. On a hard pull, I'm still getting a lot of knock events. Even though I pulled a lot of timing. At 29 PSIA , 11.9 AFR and 4000 RPMs I am running about 10.2 degrees before top dead center. That is really killing my power. But yet I'm still picking up knock events even though I can't hear anything. I keep thinking that it's picking up some other
  5. I'm trying to find out what is the correct offset for my engine. The base tune I received with my link G4 Plus was set at 297.5 ATDC on Trigger 2 VVT. The problem I had with this was it showed up as Inlet left hand position advanced 6 to 7 degrees. I was instructed to turn on cam angle test and go into runtime values and copy the offset to the trigger to VVT. Now my offset is 285. And because I keep having so many problems at lower engine loads I'm questioning whether this is the correct offset or is my intake cam actually Advanced a little too far. I don't have any problem with pulli
  6. I probably should have started with this question first. I didn't because I thought I was going to be able to get it tuned on a dyno. But I can't find anybody within a hundred-mile radius that will work on a modified BMW with an Eaton supercharger. I've been trying to get the timing set right. Using the PC link software on my laptop and a good set of noise cancelling headphones. Unfortunately I don't hear anything. I'm not sure if I even have it set to the right frequency. Right now it's set at 6 kilohertz narrow band. Gain channel 9, Windows start 5, window length 50, ignition retard l
  7. Do you have an m-52 map with this setup in it that I can look at and compared to mine? So I can get some idea of what it should look like. I'm still fairly new to this type of tuning especially speed density. Most of my experience is with Factory Mas based ecu's.
  8. I completely agree with you. Running my car on a dyno or on the track all I would need is one 1 fuel map. But my car is a daily driver back and forth to work stores everywhere. Sometimes stuck in traffic and never getting above 2000 RPM's. And these very low engine load situations the engine prefers a slightly leaner fuel map. Helps to maintain a very steady idle, and very low engine load. Crawling in 3rd gear at 1200 RPMs. I'm trying to achieve perfection. I want my car to run and drive as if it were brand new completely stock, until I really step on it and Force 16 lb of boost into th
  9. Because it requires a slightly different fuel mapping with the intake cam advance. And it works better with the more aggressive ignition map. Even though the ECU does a great job at adjusting to maintain my set AFR. I help it by setting the fuel tables as close as possible, so there is less searching, by tuning each fuel table in open loop first. This makes for very smooth, linear Power from idle to redline. What BMW engines are known for. And it works very well on the track.
  10. I think I'm onto something? When I first looked at the base map, something did not look right with the VVT/ Vanos control. It did not become active until at least 40% throttle and above 2000 RPM's. The Vanos should start advancing the cam just off idle and fairly little throttle (2.1 engine load), and hold to about 4500 RPMs. So after changing the X & Y axis, I have the Vanos switching on at 12% throttle and above 1500 RPMs. That made it about 95% better. I still have a few little glitches. But nothing like it was. Now I have to make some adjustments to the table 2 fuel map, because i
  11. Okay back again. I turned off everything. Went back to the bare necessities. Open loop on fuel and timing. Vanos variable valve timing off. Idle control off. but still cutting out at slight throttle between 1500 and 2000 RPMs. I also tried increasing the values in the injector dead time while reducing a fuel map. Past experience with emulator tuning Bosch 413 and 506 ecu's, I've learned that they become very unstable when entering such low values needed for 60% or larger injectors. Apparently that is not the case with the G4. This started as a base tune that I received from the supplier
  12. I turned off TC. No change. Here is trigger scope. Thanks
  13. I added all and logged another run. This time with overrun off. Still doing the same thing. It seams to be timing related. Under 10 btdc ? Like its still running on the idle map. 3L_M50_60lb_m122h.pclr Breaking up below 2000 rpm.llg
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