Greenday694
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Posts posted by Greenday694
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Hello, so far my g4x has been working well. I installed the link can gauge about a year ago. I used Gauge art and set up everything I wanted to see. Everything seems to be working fine except for ethanol content. The gauge always shows 0% even when I have 60% showing on PC link.
Then tonight I went to open up my most recent data log, and I had a pop up saying that I have to update. I did the update on my laptop. Unfortunately it wouldn't let me load my personal layout. If that's the only problem I'm going to have I can deal with it. Hopefully it doesn't cause problems when connecting to my ECU.
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Thanks that was a big help. My an volt 3 is already being used for Bank 1. So I will use an volt 6 for bank 2.
Next question is how do I split in to two closed loop lambdas? So that Bank 1 is for cylinders 1 2 and 3, and Bank 2 is for cylinders 4 5 and 6?
The only option I see is Lambda average.
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Well so far that's all working. Still have to calibrate the boost control solenoid to work with the built in bypass valve on the supercharger..
A while back I created another problem. I installed a dual wideband. Bank 1 reads from cylinders 1 2 and 3. Bank 2 reads from cylinders 4 5 and 6. 4 5 and 6 constantly read 2 points richer than 1 2 and 3. Except when accelerating or on Boost. Idle and part throttle cruising I always have this discrepancy. I have replaced injectors with injector Dynamic 1050. Even swapped injectors between the front three and the rear three. And also swapped O2 sensors from One bank to the other. Always get the same thing. Finally I concluded what I suspected the entire time, the air enters the very front of the plenum closest to cylinder one. So at low air flow and velocity, the first few cylinders get the most air and choke off the last three. My tuner suggested using a second input for bank 2 into the link g4x ECU.
This leads to my other question.? Can I add another analog input? I'm already using the two analog inputs from the expansion cable for my fuel pressure and oil pressure.
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I'm back again with a few more questions. I have the ethanol content sensor installed and apparently working. But I don't think it's reading correctly. It keeps showing about 14 to 15% ethanol. My local stations have a maximum of 10%. The sensor I am using is from innovate. And I can't for the life of me to find the calibration section for it. I know I did find it initially when I set it up. But I have no idea where it is now.?
Second question is about the boost control solenoid. I have the extra wire coming from the G4 X, that would go to the solenoid. Do I connect the other end of the solenoid to ground or to ignition positive?
My third question is about the idle control valve opening a lot during cranking. Is there a way I can cut that in half? On cold startup, the RPM shoot up to almost 3,000 before it coming back to idle. And this is not good with forged internals, and little to no oil pressure in the first half second.
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Okay that sounds good to me I will give it a shot. Thanks
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Okay I was thinking of ignition 7. Is aux 7 capable of pwm? For a boost control solenoid
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Isn't auxiliary output 7 for the AC clutch? If so I do use the air conditioning in my car. That's why I was wondering if I could use auxiliary 8, Evap solenoid Since I no longer have the EVAP system.
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As the title says I have a g4x E36 BMW Plug and Play, and want to know if there's a way to add more input and output to the ECU?
I am currently using the expansion Loom, The analog channels are being used for fuel pressure and oil pressure. The digital channels are being used for clutch pedal switch, and left front wheel speed sensor.
I want to add a ethanol content sensor.
And would like to add a boost control. Could I use the EVAP solenoid circuit for this?
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Thanks for transferring the files. It is up and running okay. Not as good as it did on the G4+. But good enough to get to the dyno this Thursday.
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That might explain why it was always so glitchy.
The G4+ file I sent, was from the reseller. The changes I made to it was in the fuel tables and external inputs, fuel pressure, oil pressure, clutch pedal, front wheel speed sensor, and rev limit.
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My engine is the M50 t u.
The reseller I bought the G4 plus from, loaded it with the m-52 base map. I did ask him why the m-52 instead of the M50. He said because the M50 only switches between the two maps based on Vanos activation. And since it takes a few seconds for the intake cam to fully advance once activated, he preferred using the m-52 set up. Because as the intake cam is transitioning , the two maps will blend over.
I know in the factory Bosch ECU this is true. I have tuned the 413, and the ms41 in the past. Not sure if the link e c u does the same thing?
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The ECU did arrive today.
I did ask the retailer which map sensor this ECU would have. He replied 5 bar. Apparently that was wrong.
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Sorry about that. Yes it does have VVT, single Vanos. When number one stopped firing, I was in the process of fine tuning the first fuel map. So I temporarily switched VVT off. Normally it is on m52vvi.
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Yes I would like it to be as close to the G4+ as possible. I was going to set it up for flex fuel, but I think I will let the tuner take care of that.
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One more quick question. Will the expansion loom from the G4 plus that I have wired into my car work with the g4x?
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Hopefully I can finally get this car on the dyno next week.
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Thanks alot. My G4X will be here tomorrow. This is my G4+ file.
Thanks alot. My G4X will be here tomorrow. This is my G4+ file.
The 2nd one is the G4X
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Okay as I mentioned in my other thread I was having a problem with my G4 Plus. I contacted Link, they sent me the form and address to send out to be repaired.
In the meantime I bought the g4x. Should have it tomorrow or the next day. Downloaded the g4x software, and apparently I cannot just open the G4 plus file in the g4x.
Is there any easy way to copy over my tune from the one to the other? Besides having my two laptops open and copying each value one at a time?
I am not a tuner. But over the years I had the G4 Plus, I have made a lot of little changes that had the car running pretty good. I would hate to have to redo that whole process over again.
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I forget at what hertz I had on the oscilloscope. But the on time was 2 milliseconds. At battery voltage of 12.9, the pulse to ground was fluctuating between 1.9 and 2.6 volts. Not enough to fire the coil. Typical symptoms of a Field Effect transistor going bad.,
Where do I send the ECU for repair? The link website keeps redirecting me all over the place.
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1 hour ago, Adamw said:
How were you testing? The ign test is only a 2ms pulse to ground so you will only see it with a scope or LED test light. It wont work with no coil connected.
No, you need to use Ign 1-6.
Contact [email protected] if you want the ecu inspected.
Yes at first I use the oscilloscope. Then for Simplicity switched over to LED test light. Ran the test on cylinder 2 so I had a idea of what the test light should be doing. Yes the coil was plugged in during the test. I could hear the ark from ignition coil 2, coincided with the LED flash.
Cylinder 1, no signal at the coil, or at pin 50 on the e c u.
I forget at what hertz I had on the oscilloscope. But the on time was 2 milliseconds. At battery voltage of 12.9, the pulse to ground was fluctuating between 1.9 and 2.6 volts. Not enough to fire the coil. Typical symptoms of a Field Effect transistor going bad.
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And yes I did back probe the main connector on ECU, pin 50, black with white stripe wire. Tried with ignition test ignition number one on. Only got 12.9 V back feeding through a coil. Disconnect coil and I get a very weak flickering ground. Test off, very weak steady ground. I was actually hoping to see nothing. Then it could possibly be a loose solder connection.
One thing I was curious about.? My car is a 6 cylinder. Under auxiliary output ignition it has ignition Drive 7 for AC clutch. Ignition Drive 8 for Purge. Could I reconfigure and rewire to use one of these to drive ignition coil 1?
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I am back with a new problem. And instead of hijacking somebody else's thread I would post it here.
It had been working flawlessly for the last 2 years. Spent the last two weeks prepping for the dyno, went to drive it over to put it up on a lift to check everything underneath, and it started misfiring. Number one coil stopped firing. Swap coils, replaced plug, check for power, signal, and ground. Everything checked except for signal. Check continuity between the coil primary plug and ECU plug. Everything checked out fine. The dyno is scheduled in three days. And track day next Saturday. Guess I will not be making neither one.
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This is my original sign in name.
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I am trying to wire my G4 Plus to receive a signal from one of my front wheel sensors. The rear wheel speed sensor is already wired by way of the main harness. I have the expansion Loom. It has DI7 and DI8. But after looking in the PC link software, it states that digital input 1 to 6 can be used for frequency measurement, speed signals. 7 + 8 are you for Edge detection. Right now DI8 bears being used for clutch pedal sensor. How can I hook up a front wheel sensor to use traction control?
BMW PnP G4 X can gauge glitches
in G4x
Posted
Thanks for the reply.
As of right now it's only one issue. My ethanol content sensor is working, and the g4x is reading accurately. The can gauge is accurately reading manifold pressure, lambda one and two, oil pressure oil temperature charge temperature and a few other things. But for some reason it's not displaying ethanol content. Or I should say, the ethanol content that it's displaying is 0%. Which is definitely not accurate.
As for the update, that only became an issue today. So far only on my laptop. Earlier this morning, I did some data logging on my PC. That worked the same as it always did. It was only later in the day when I opened the PC link and it would not load. A message popped up, saying that I have to update. So I click the link, and loaded the update. I then tried to open the PC link again, and had a blank screen. I opened my recent file, and noticed that it had gone back to the default layout. I tried to open my original layout, it kind of did. But things were moved around. And in the process of putting things back where I originally had it, it kept freezing. Finally I did get it.
My main concern is when I go to connect to my car tomorrow, am I going to have problems?