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Booston

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  1. Like
    Booston reacted to Adamw in dual fuel pumps   
    Set the 2nd pump aux output as GP output, then give it conditions, I would suggest one of the conditions is the main pump is running - then the second pump gets shut off with the first for safety.
    Example below, main pump is on Aux 1, 2nd pump is on Aux 2, so second pump will come on above 120Kpa provided main pump is on.

  2. Like
    Booston reacted to Adamw in PC Link New Layouts   
    Hi All,
    The default layouts in the current G4+ PC Link are pretty dated, I recently done a couple of new ones that will be included as the defaults in the next PC Link update.  But in the meantime here they are so you can use them now.
    FYI, if you use both G4+ and G4X ecus and you have highly customised layouts, you can copy the same layout into both PC Link versions by just changing the file extension.  G4+ extension is .llg and G4X uses .llgx.
    Feel free to add to this post if you have any layouts you want to share.
     
    1366 x 768.llf 1920 x1080.llf
  3. Like
    Booston reacted to Adamw in Evo G4+ pnp with Haltech IC-7 dash - no data   
    Your ECU is set up correctly as far as I know.  There are a few guys having drama getting those dashes to work at the moment so Im a little suspicious they may possibly not have something quite right in the CAN setup yet?  
    Can you try setting up the CAN as per my pics below, and set the dash to Haltech V2, then tell us if Manifold pressure works on the screen.  This set up will make the Link ecu send a message that looks just like the Haltech message so may help confirm if the problem is wiring or something in the dash software.
    Basic steps; change channel 1 to transmit user stream 1, ID to 864, transmit rate 50Hz.  Go to streams tab, click on stream 1, delete frame if there are any already there.  Add frame, add parameter, choose MAP, set start bit 16, width 16, Multi 10. Apply, ok, store.
     


  4. Thanks
    Booston reacted to Adamw in CAN link lambda failure   
    Ok, I think it is worth trying another sensor, there's none of the normal clues that it has failed though and its pretty unusual for them to read very lean when failed.  The Lambda controller appears to be working ok and happy.  There is an error reported "low battery voltage", but that happened before the log was started so possibly happened at start up when batt voltage dipped, after that it appears happy.  
  5. Like
    Booston reacted to Adamw in Convert kph to mph   
    Are you looking at a pc log or ecu log?  Maybe you didn’t log it?
  6. Like
    Booston reacted to Adamw in 2JZ Idle Fluctuation   
    It looks like the valve is working ok to me, I think the spike in RPM is caused by the idle vale responding to the dip just before it, this is caused I think mostly by the ignition timing fighting the idle valve.  Turning on idle ign control will fix this. Also I suggest you do a firmware update as there were some closed loop idle bugs fixes in later versions.  
    Once you have done the firmware update, attach a copy of your tune with the recent changes and I will set up a starting point for idle ign.
  7. Like
    Booston reacted to Adamw in Xy plot hold   
    It works the same as time plots etc, the length of time that is displayed when live is controlled by "display time range" setting in PC Logging set up.  If set to auto it will show the full length.

  8. Like
    Booston reacted to Rossobianconero in Make fuel cut softer   
    or the other option is to detune the engine before hitting you fuel cut, let say you have your fuel cut at 7000rpm, you can lower the power of the engine before that rpm, so the driver knows that he is close or is just slower to hit, you can even rise the fuel cut to 7100rpm but lower the power output of the engine that no driver is gonna push the engine that high because is clearly not making any more power. Lower the boost, putting more fuel, or just taking a few degrees of the ign table, or all of them. Is just another way.
  9. Like
    Booston reacted to Adamw in Make fuel cut softer   
    The basic fundamentals to make a limiter smoother or "softer":
     
    Reduce start cut.
    Make sure end cut is 100% or close to it.
    Increase limit control range.
    Increase Limit ignition trim (more negative).
    Exit decay rate can have quite an effect on how it feels as well, I normally like it up around 40%.
     
  10. Like
    Booston reacted to Rossobianconero in Target afr protection   
    I work with a lot of race cars, and usually my aproach is to leave it to the driver, I dont wont to shutdown the engine in the final corner if he is fighting for the championship, I leave that to him or her to decide, in that case the best way is a Dash, and make different alarms,  he or her can decide what to do and when. In those car I just make corrections to try keep everything undercontrol if something goes wrong. If is not that series the competition then aggresive protections is a good way to save the engine. 
     
    If you just need to turn on a light to warn the driver, you can use aux that under over X afr and X amount of load turn the light.
  11. Like
    Booston reacted to Adamw in Boost by gear ( not global reduction )   
    You can have three completely seperate boost tables, or 2 interpolated.  So for instance you could have one table that is active for 1st-3rd gears, one for 4th and 1 for 5th.  If only 4th gear is the concern then you could just switch to a second boost table whenever 4th gear is engaged which has lower DC or boost target in it.
    If you want different boost in each gear, then another option is to have two boost tables in interpolate mode.  One high boost table, one lower boost.  Then use gear position to blend between those two tables.
  12. Like
    Booston reacted to orlando bello in Engine protection   
    Would like to have more gp protection rpm limits tables. Not only rpm limit but also warnings under conditions.warning pop up on dash .
  13. Thanks
    Booston reacted to Ducie54 in Target afr protection   
    You could buy a gauge/dash or even install a tablet that way you could monitor every thing. I take the new X series with the math function would be able to trigger an output based on correction level.
     
  14. Thanks
    Booston reacted to Brad Burnett in Boost by gear ( not global reduction )   
    Have you thought about making the boost target table gear based?
  15. Like
    Booston reacted to Ducie54 in Target afr protection   
    A basic setup but you get the idea.

  16. Like
    Booston reacted to Stevieturbo in Target afr protection   
    Then set a lean AFR rpm limit as long as your wideband is reliable and works.
  17. Thanks
    Booston reacted to Adamw in Windows version upgrade on tablet !!!!!!!   
    It sounds like one of your configuration files in corrupt.  Try copying the attached parameter config into your Link G4+ directory.
    If that doesnt work a re-install should fix it.
    DefaultParameterConfig.rtcr
  18. Like
    Booston reacted to Adamw in MINI LINK G4+ Borg Warner Speed sensor   
    I drew this circuit for someone the other day.  I havent tested it myself with a turbospeed sensor so no guarantees but I have used a similar circuit to divide a wheel speed frequency down.  Over here you can buy the 4024 binary counter for about $1.50 from Jaycar so I assume they should be easy to find anywhere.
     

  19. Thanks
    Booston reacted to Adamw in G series turbo speed sensor   
    Just for your info - all the common ones I have seen (garret & BW) have a "divide by 8" circuit built into the connector.  I believe this was because back in the day most compressor wheels had 8 blades so it would output one pulse per rev.  So your example would actuallly give a frequency of ~2100Hz.   So, fine for a Thunder but too high for the smaller ECU's.
    @Booston  If you dont have a Thunder you will have to do something like this:  
     
  20. Like
    Booston reacted to Brad Burnett in Fuel level   
    Its usually a variable resistance sender.  Should be able to use just about anything and feed it in on a spare AN input.  Will need a pull up resistor between the signal and 5v reference as most are 2 wire.
    Then just see what it does outside the tank and create a calibration based on that.  Most older units are not going to be a linear calibration so you will want to check multiple points from empty to full.
    Outside of that it should be relatively easy to get it on the CAN bus and on its way to the dash.
     
  21. Thanks
    Booston reacted to Tim D in Covert llg file to csv?   
    Did you mean this...
     

  22. Thanks
    Booston reacted to Tim D in Boost trace log   
    Take a log and capture these parameters (assuming you're running closed loop), it makes analysing and tweaking a piece of cake!

  23. Thanks
    Booston reacted to ayjayef in Obd2 Bluetooth Reader and Torque App?   
    I can't help with Kiwi4 but I've played around with quite a few ODB2 bluetooth devices in the past including the Kiwi3.
    The gotcha with the Kiwi3 is that it used "low energy bluetooth" which isn't compatible with everything (which is why some of the other threads talk about working on this device but not that).  Seems someone in their wisdom took a working bluetooth spec and split it into a few different versions that don't work with each other.  
    Cheap ebay Chinese ODB-II devices are hit and miss and I've had a really good one that worked till it randomly stopped. 
    Don't know where on the planet you are but in AU/NZ the Jaycar ones work well on everything I've tried them on without lag.
    https://www.jaycar.com.au/obd-ii-engine-code-reader-with-bluetooth-technology/p/PP2145
    ...and they have a good return policy if for some reason it doesn't work on your setup.  They also sell a wireless one that I've not tried but it might suit your setup better if you are using a external GPS or another device on bluetooth at hte same time.
    A bit off topic but Race Chrono is a killer app for ODB-II bluetooth.   Race track video with odb-ii data overlay, lots of tracks in there or you can mark-out your own.  You will get best results using a higher frequency external GPS  (10hz) as phones typically use a 1Hz GPS. 
     
  24. Thanks
    Booston reacted to Richard Hill in Boost kpa psi or bar   
    yes, in pclink, go to option, unit, metric or imperial. The options menu lets you set the units for each type.
     
    MGP is Gauge Pressure (relative), so referenced to Barometric Absolute Pressure, MAP is Absolute pressure.  Both are selectable as a load axis.
     
    HTH,
     Richard.
     
  25. Like
    Booston reacted to BradB in Introducing RealDash - A Dashboard App for Android & Windows   
    Just played with this, have updated V44 output baud rate to 115200 and changed connection to match and now have practically 0 lag between input and display.  Very very happy boy. Now to play with some display config screens. 
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