Badnews

Found it. All 4 wires at the DTM were pinned wrong. Repinned and now works perfectly. Stupid mistake

AEM 0-100psi. Same pinout as like every pressure sensor

I used to have a Bosch pressure/temp sensor for my coolant but am switching after breaking them multiple times. So Now I want to run a Delco ECT and a 0-100psi sensor for pressure. So what I did was cut the Bosch sensor connector off and just install a 4 pin DTM connector. Then from that DTM connector I made a little adapter/jumper harness to the 2 new coolant sensors. My issue is now my ECT is reading wrong when my coolant PSI sensor is plugged in. And when my PSI sensor is plugged it, it just reads 94psi. Now I looked and double checked my pinouts on the pressure sensor and everything looks correct. Any ideas? https://www.dropbox.com/s/ni8zry9hn1rxwt9/IMG-20230411-WA0022.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/x5iv93tjve40ssh/IMG-20230411-WA0024.jpg?dl=0

Got a stock distributor on for cam sink with the beams crank sensor. Not 1 trigger error since so far. Currently at 32psi of boost or 320kpa MAP Target in boost settings. Got closed loop boost control working great now. My 8 xI D1700X injectors are singing at 64% duty cycle on E72 fuel. So the car is making a lot of power.

We never trued that. But I will this week.

I have a extra ATI dampener and already tried swapping them from my spare engine. Ok another update. A tuner in Norway named Marius who I message to because he also owns a Celica GT4 asked to see ny tune and logs. I sent it and he emailed me back a tune and instructed me to repin my ecu so IGN 1 = coil 1 & 4 and IGN 2= coil 2 & 3. He also had me pin my injectors like so Cylinder 1 = inj 1 primary, inj 2 secondary Cylinder 2 = inj 3 primary, inj 4 secondary And so on. Double checked timing and went out testing with it set to wasted spark. No other changes. So far not 1 trigger error at all and have been up to 33psi of boost. So maybe this whole time my issue has been the cam sensor. Going to put a stock 3sgte distributor in and just wire the cam sync from it to test.

I'm back. Went to the dyno and made 645awhp at 20psi then 735awhp at 25psi. Never got up to 30psi on the dyno but have a good feel for ignition timing now. On the street at 25+psi starting to get the trigger errors again. Not sure what to do as I did everything last time. Only thing I can think of is a different ECU. Does the G4X have better filtering than the G4+? And any way I can borrow one to test? Would need a Extreme or Fury for DBW.

Just another update. I turned the car back to how it was when the issue started EXCEPT for the 36-2 stock trigger and the noise suppressor on the coil power. Obviously I'm not going to take the suppressor out now as it doesn't hurt. Anyway car is problem free so far!!! I was ripping around at 23psi (problem began at 15+ psi before) and having fun. I just switched to E85 today and started tweaking the fuel VE for that. I'll get that boost up to 30psi here soon and if everything stays good I'll schedule dyno time.

Well think I solved it with the stock 36-2 trigger setup from a Beams motor. I did notice the polarity of the trigger is backwards just now when looking at the trigger scopes. So I'll have to swap pins on the connector. Here is a video of my test run. datalog of the pull https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uMsIH4715Aln1GDB_ohRk4T-esnP2Eel/view?usp=sharing 1100rpm trigger scope https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NifgIi6fbg4wukJlfW1CLhljMYp5uI5i/view?usp=sharing 3000rpm trigger scope https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HChVA1crSiJXjK49v_UsytUz8U0ne34-/view?usp=sharing 5000rpm trigger scope https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J125iXms9v77gjcGmWauwL9SC9MU6PrB/view?usp=sharing 7000rpm trigger scope https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Oa6oaiiyBzv_dx8aaDSmYLZSlGNyIwmD/view?usp=sharing

Any update?

Any luck with engineering? And the grounds & sheilding all goes to the same pin for both cam and crank.

Thinking of getting a PicoScope to try and help figure this out. Any word from Engineering? I saw the SR20 crank sensor article they had the issue on cam and crank sensors at the same time. Another thing I wanted to try is to quick Swap a G4X Furry or Extreme in quick and make an identical G4X tune as mine to just quick go and see if the updated ECU's have the same issue. Just no luck finding anyone local with a one of those ECU's

The cam, crank and sheilding are all going to the same pin for both. Should I try to seperate the grounds. I could chasis ground the sheilding. Any other thoughts you have are greatly appreciated.

Tried the cherry hall sensor and got the exact same results as the VR sensor. Scope https://drive.google.com/file/d/1i_hm6JyYI2_QXHmV-GcrfqQVu7Uzv1x4/view?usp=sharing I just don't understand where electrical noise from ignition comes from. Is it from the power wire that I should rerun that outside the main harness separately? Does it emit from the cylinder head when the plugs fire? What am I am really battling? Is it from the coils that I should try to relocate them?

It is from my old ECU company called Electromotive. I was running this since the early 2000's and it ONLY worked with a 60-2 trigger wheel. Here is a link to their site where they sell it. Crank & Cam Sensors Archives - Electromotive Think if the Hall sensor doesn't work there is a chance the stock Toyota 3S 36-2 crank trigger would work? Edit: my buddy said he read that "The higher the voltage produced by a VR sensor, the more likely to be noise" So maybe open up my air gap on my sensor since it is adjustable?

Another update. Could not get the 20 tooth trigger wheel to run correctly. Just seems like when I get "noise" since there are less teeth it messed up more. My buddy made me a new 60-2 wheel and I put that back in. Then swapped in the Fueltech IGN1A coils and tested. Made no difference at all. So I am left with trying a Hall sensor. The direct replacement one I want is on back order so I ordered a Cherry Hall sensor to rig it up enough to test. After this I am out of ideas other then switch to different style coils all together.

Tried a 20 tooth trigger wheel. The car did not run smooth under boost but did not register trigger errors. I have below my tune, a scope at like 1000rpm. scope at 5000rpm (during it not running smooth), and a log which I tried to floor it and it did not run smooth then the 2nd attempt to floor the car in the log I did a scope so the log freezes during it. But during the log you can see the rpm go up and down like 200rpm rather than just a smooth increase of rpm. Tune https://drive.google.com/file/d/1YIfDYKbEa0_kVYDcPXoWTuyKa7UHrLFs/view?usp=sharing Scope at 1000rpm https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s1oIhIc4fI9EAWvCvY5GFEEW6ikh4ELi/view?usp=sharing Scope at 5000rpm https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gmtLnz1H5uuaCKLmhDXkTC_bPygPp79G/view?usp=sharing Log for 2 pulls https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KxpP10dgg7jaG9iiSnSfTqGKN6TCPkyf/view?usp=sharing

My buddy has a brand new set of IGN1A coils from Fueltech that he has yet to use. I'll ask him to borrow them for a quick test. I also ground my trigger wheel this morning down to a 20 tooth wheel. I have a 60-2 as a backup I can put back on.

Another update. Tried lowering ignition dwell from 4.7ms to 3ms. (Did nothing) Pulled my alternator belt and did a test drive without the alternator working (did nothing) Only 2 things I can think of to try 1-hall sensor 2-grind teeth off my trigger wheel and try like a 20 tooth wheel Adam do you have any other ideas?

Added 2 grounds from the cylinder head to the battery. Did a test drive and it did nothing. Not sure what else I can try to do. Someone suggested get rid of my lithium battery and go to a optimum sytle one. Just to test I think I'm going to pull my alternator belt off and try a quick pull.

Just grounds from the motor to the chassis in the engine bay. I can try a cable from the block directly to the battery

Also got scopes during the miss again today test 4 miss.llg test 3 miss.llg

So here is everything done in order 1-moved IGN1A head ground away from ECU star ground point. (helped with errors in neutral at 5000rpm free revving) This worked fine until under load (15psi+ of boost and 8000+rpm) 2-moved logic grounds on coils to head (did nothing) 3-Tried going to #2 and #3 trigger filters (made it worse) 3-Tried moving ECU grounds to Battery instead of head (did nothing) 4-add suppressor to coil power wires (did nothing) 5-rerouted crank trigger wires outside of main harness (did nothing) 6-rerouted crank sensor side of wiring away from alternator (did nothing) 7-changed spark plugs (thought it helped but looking at logs right after the boost was 18psi instead of 20psi so really it did nothing) 8-dismounted ECU to pull it way from alternator charge wire by putting car cover in between(did nothing) 9-rerouted the cam wiring and the crank wiring together away from all power wires (did nothing) 10-swapped in my buddies ECU (did nothing) Next I'll try a new crank sensor. (Edit) 11-new crank sensor (did nothing) (Edit #2) 12-tried new plug wires (did nothing) 13-got an extra IGN1A coil and 1 by 1 swapped it out for each coil (did nothing) Having my buddy make me a new triggee wheel for my backup motor. I'll swap just to test when I get it. ADAM any other ideas to try?!?!?!?!

Is it possible that I'm getting EMI into the crank trigger from the cam trigger still being in the main loom? I can run the cam signal external from the main loom also to test. Didn't know if the shield could get say "contaminated" on the cam sensor and go into the crank since the grounds and shields splice together right before going into the ECU? Also I have a spare coil on its way to swap out with my current ones just to see if one is bad.