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  1. Thanks Adam. Just for other people’s future reference who happen across this topic... The cable I purchased is an ADVENT (AUEX48M15) USB 2.0 Extension. 3 metres (plugged into 1.5 metre Link tuning cable). Bought from Curry’s / PC World in UK. I’ve done ignition base timing and about 2 hours of settings and fuel table stuff so far with no issues... however heed Adam’s warning in case there are connectivity issues!
  2. Thanks Adam - I'll give it a go!
  3. Ahh, thanks for confirming.
  4. Brilliant. Thanks Richard. Bought a 3m extension on way home from work... works a treat!
  5. The ECU is in the boot... the mapping needs to be done in the car. The provided cable isn’t long enough. What is the recommended approach? To get a USB extension cable, or to get a longer Link tuning cable?
  6. Hi again, On my old Motec, I could use a volt input (0-5) to the boost solenoid. Something like: 0v -> 3.5v -> 5v Aux -100% -> -50% -> -0% Boost I'm reasonably sure this can be done with all of the options and tables, but I've searched the whole Internet and played around with the settings and I can't see how to link the two. I see that they have tables already like this linking ECT to boost pressure, but can't work out how to make my own custom compensation tables. Please can someone point me in the right direction...or just let me know how to do it! Cheers!
  7. Is it possible to disable the Ethanol Sensor DI input so that it shows OFF rather than ERROR in the run time window... The only settings I can find for Ethanol is... All the DIs are set to off (apart from the Speed, which is wired in). Thanks!
  8. Adam, thanks very much for your help and for the link. I've now charged the battery and done the tests again... here are the results: All looks good, so I can continue to next steps. Thanks again.
  9. Adam, I'm now hitting another problem - all I've done is turn off the inputs, but now when I crank the engine the ECU disconnects from the laptop... do you know what would cause this? Even if I load the Link Base Map back in, it does the same. EDIT - Ignore this - I've just noticed a warning saying the system voltage is down to 7v! I suppose the car battery is going flat. I'll charge and try again. Amateurisk mistake!
  10. Thanks Adam. I've switched to the Link base map and switched over a few of the sensors which I've wired differently - and disabled the rest. I now get a nice RPM when cranking (225 ish) so that's working now.... however I still get the same results on the scope... when you say I'm doing something wrong, do you mean in the configuration of the scope? Any tips? Thanks!
  11. Hi, I've set up the crank and cam mag sensors on my Link and tried to crank the engine. On the run time menu I see signals lighting up "OK" for Trigger 1 and Trigger 2, but I also see a steady rise in Trigger 1 errors. I've done some digging around on the net and I believe I have the right settings - although perhaps not! Now, looking at the trigger scope... this isn't what I expected to see, but here it is: Thanks for any help. Christian
  12. Hi Gerard, Changing scaling didn’t work for me. I installed the latest Intel graphics driver (it said it wasn’t supported (yet) for my laptop, so it was a bit of a pain to get on there - but it should be mainstream now). Since doing this it’s been fine. Cheers, Christian
  13. Hi Dave, Sounds good! When is 5.6.6 coming out? ...and what does it fix? Cheers, Christian
  14. Mine is also slow for the first, day, 30 seconds... then it picks up. I’m assuming this is the software just loading itself up?
  15. Hi Richard, I'd tried that before, but had "this software is not verified by your manufacturer", or something to that effect. However, your response prompted me to try again and force it on, old skool. The PCLink Software appears to be responding better now - so fingers crossed it was the driver. Seems odd for a brand new machine, but so long as it works for now. I'll keep playing and see what happens. Thanks for the tip. Christian
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