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senordos

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Everything posted by senordos

  1. Thanks Adam. Just for other people’s future reference who happen across this topic... The cable I purchased is an ADVENT (AUEX48M15) USB 2.0 Extension. 3 metres (plugged into 1.5 metre Link tuning cable). Bought from Curry’s / PC World in UK. I’ve done ignition base timing and about 2 hours of settings and fuel table stuff so far with no issues... however heed Adam’s warning in case there are connectivity issues!
  2. Thanks Adam - I'll give it a go!
  3. Ahh, thanks for confirming.
  4. Brilliant. Thanks Richard. Bought a 3m extension on way home from work... works a treat!
  5. The ECU is in the boot... the mapping needs to be done in the car. The provided cable isn’t long enough. What is the recommended approach? To get a USB extension cable, or to get a longer Link tuning cable?
  6. Hi again, On my old Motec, I could use a volt input (0-5) to the boost solenoid. Something like: 0v -> 3.5v -> 5v Aux -100% -> -50% -> -0% Boost I'm reasonably sure this can be done with all of the options and tables, but I've searched the whole Internet and played around with the settings and I can't see how to link the two. I see that they have tables already like this linking ECT to boost pressure, but can't work out how to make my own custom compensation tables. Please can someone point me in the right direction...or just let me know how to do it! Cheers!
  7. Is it possible to disable the Ethanol Sensor DI input so that it shows OFF rather than ERROR in the run time window... The only settings I can find for Ethanol is... All the DIs are set to off (apart from the Speed, which is wired in). Thanks!
  8. Adam, thanks very much for your help and for the link. I've now charged the battery and done the tests again... here are the results: All looks good, so I can continue to next steps. Thanks again.
  9. Adam, I'm now hitting another problem - all I've done is turn off the inputs, but now when I crank the engine the ECU disconnects from the laptop... do you know what would cause this? Even if I load the Link Base Map back in, it does the same. EDIT - Ignore this - I've just noticed a warning saying the system voltage is down to 7v! I suppose the car battery is going flat. I'll charge and try again. Amateurisk mistake!
  10. Thanks Adam. I've switched to the Link base map and switched over a few of the sensors which I've wired differently - and disabled the rest. I now get a nice RPM when cranking (225 ish) so that's working now.... however I still get the same results on the scope... when you say I'm doing something wrong, do you mean in the configuration of the scope? Any tips? Thanks!
  11. Hi, I've set up the crank and cam mag sensors on my Link and tried to crank the engine. On the run time menu I see signals lighting up "OK" for Trigger 1 and Trigger 2, but I also see a steady rise in Trigger 1 errors. I've done some digging around on the net and I believe I have the right settings - although perhaps not! Now, looking at the trigger scope... this isn't what I expected to see, but here it is: Thanks for any help. Christian
  12. Hi Gerard, Changing scaling didn’t work for me. I installed the latest Intel graphics driver (it said it wasn’t supported (yet) for my laptop, so it was a bit of a pain to get on there - but it should be mainstream now). Since doing this it’s been fine. Cheers, Christian
  13. Hi Dave, Sounds good! When is 5.6.6 coming out? ...and what does it fix? Cheers, Christian
  14. Mine is also slow for the first, day, 30 seconds... then it picks up. I’m assuming this is the software just loading itself up?
  15. Hi Richard, I'd tried that before, but had "this software is not verified by your manufacturer", or something to that effect. However, your response prompted me to try again and force it on, old skool. The PCLink Software appears to be responding better now - so fingers crossed it was the driver. Seems odd for a brand new machine, but so long as it works for now. I'll keep playing and see what happens. Thanks for the tip. Christian
  16. Hi Adam, Thanks for that, but I'm afraid my display is already set to 100%. Everything there is on the recommended settings. The problem remains :-( Christian
  17. Hi, I'm having a problem with the PCLink software. When I change the layout - or even switch from fuel to ignition maps, the tables / graphical views fail to refresh properly, leaving images of whatever was there before in place. It works when I first load the view, but if I change anything it fails. I've searched for forum and I can't find any resolution to this (I've seen that there was another thread where people were experiencing slowdown). I'm using a brand new Lenovo laptop bought specifically for the purpose of mapping a car - this is the only software running on the machine. It's Windows 10 and the latest version (2017?!) of the PCLink software I can find. The PCLink Version Information says the following: Version: 5.6.5.3338 Build Date: 09:44:11 Feb 15 2017 DLL Version: 3372 Build Date: 15:09:01 May 16 2017 OpenGL Version: 4.5.0 - Build 22.20.16.4815 Renderer: Intel(R) HD Graphics 610 Vendor: Intel I've attached a screenshot of the issue... the right hand corner window is completely inoperable. I've reinstalled the software with no benefit. Any help greatly appreciated - I need this to work in Jan to get the car mapped and ready for the race season. Thanks, Christian
  18. Thanks Adam, If it's OpenGL 2.1 it needs, then I think you're right. I've done some further research (googling) on this too and it seems many others have struggled with OpenGL after 1.1 on VirtualBox. No problem - thanks for the info.
  19. Hi, I'm having an issue with the graphics view (see attachment) - the text appears simply as a white box. Has anyone experienced this before? I'm running on Windows 10, but in Virtualbox on a Mac. Cheers
  20. Hi all, Thanks for your help on this. I've bitten the bullet and gone with the Fury... why not! Cheers.
  21. Thanks everyone. Seems that the Monsoon does pretty much all I need it to, the closed loop lambda, closed loop boost control. The question is, do I want to run the knock control? For this, do I just need to wire the donut style sensor direct into the ECU (Fury) or do I need a controller for this between the donut and the ECU? Also, with the research I've done, I see that other ECUs (like the Haltech) make minor updates to a second ignition map if knock is detected, essentially reducing timing over time if knock continues to be sensed. Does the Link do something similar with its knock control (and for that matter, the lambda and the boost if off target)? Presumably it's possible to see in the logs that it happened anyway? Thanks.
  22. Hello, I'm looking at purchasing a Link ECU. I've been recommended the Monsoon, but I want to understand the features I'll be missing. I have tried to understand this from reading their forums and manuals, but welcome any tips from HP Academy. From what I see, there are sufficient inputs and outputs for my needs. The car runs a single coil on a distributer, so I actually receive 3 additional outputs. Question 1: I want to wire in the lamdba from my AEM Lambda controller... but my understanding of the spec sheet suggests that I wouldn't be able to run "closed loop lambda" (I think Link call this Closed Loop Lambda Auto Mode). This is something I was interested to play with - but I've managed without before. The Storm or the Fury are a good few £££ extra, so not sure it's worth it. Am I right that the Monsoon does not have closed loop lambda. Question 2: I've previously also experimented with closed loop boost control. Is this feature available on the Monsoon? Question 3: The Monsoon has a CAN bus which I intend to use for my Race Technology Dash2... the spec sheet warns that I'd need additional inputs for a 2nd CAN bus... is there any reason I'd need a 2nd CAN bus? Question 4: Knock control. The Monsoon does not have this. The advice I've received is that, as a hobbiest tuner, this would require a lot of work to setup right. They suggested I'd be better with the separate Knocklink light. I also have a KX-3, although I've only had varying success in setting this up. Ideally, it it's simple enough, I'd like something on the car to tell the ECU if there is knock, although I've managed for many years without this, so it's probably not a must have. Thanks for any tips... I simply want to make sure I make the most efficient use of my budget. Cheers
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