senordos

Thanks Adam, you're living up to your super-star reputation! That all makes sense... that's basically how I would have wired it up on a board - didn't think to set it up like that in the software. Perfect, thank you. -Christian

Hi, I'm setting up some warning lights for overboost / water temp / intake temps... I can see using the Virtual Aux that I can setup "if BOOST > X" etc. it will go high (or low), but: Question 1: I assume that after the boost drops, it will revert to normal state... i.e. it won't latch "on"? Is there a way to configure this so it does? Question 2: And if so, is there a way to reset it via an input so I can clear the error from a dashboard button? If not, the above is all doable with some simple circuitry on the dash but that requires solder which I'm rubbish at! Question 3: The "Limits" - i.e. Boost Limit / RPM Limit / other limits - I notice that the Link will log an error for these ... is there an alternative way to use these other than what I propose above? ...and again, to be able to clear these? Thanks, Christian

That’s great! Thanks both. Vaughan: I did read that in the manual, but possibly due to lack of skill didn’t know is that meant I could send 12V into the aux without blowing anything up! Adam: I’ll have a look at your alternative route too. Thanks again for support!

Hi, I'm wiring in some warning bulbs on dash of car and want to use the AUX Output on the ECU. I understand that these are grounds from the documentation... my question is, what voltage can they handle - do I need a resistor in place... I can't find a document in the help for this, so if there is one I'm happy to read that. I've attached a simplified diagram of how I think it works. Please let me know is this is right. For info, I'm using a G4+ Fury. Thanks!

Thanks again Adam. Checked this and appears to be working. With multimeter earthed to block CAN H - 3.2V CAN L - 1.9 V If I turn CAN2 off in the ECU, I get 2.2 V on both. Cheers for your help. Christian

Thanks Adam... I'll check that. Much appreciated.

Hello, Is there a way to check that there is a signal exiting the ECU on the CAN wires? Using a Link G4+ Fury - I have wired into the CAN 2 H & L outputs and have setup the CAN 2 settings in the ECU config, but I'm not getting expected results (any results) on my external dash. I'd like to just check that the wiring is "ok", but being a data line I assume it's not as simple as checking if I get 5V or something on the line! For info: I'm setting up a Race Technology DASH2 (not PRO) so using a serial converter. The converter appears to be working, but isn't showing anything on the input side... I am just trying to rule out ECU setup / wiring issues. Thanks for any help, Christian

Just to close this topic... We tried my sensor on the other car and got exactly the same reading! Perhaps there is a little difference on our wiring for the ground - but I am happy that the two sensors read the same therefore neither is faulty. Thanks for the tolerance information though. -Christian

Hi Adam, It’s brand new - I was just surprised with the values we were getting in the ECU at atmosphere which is why we checked the voltages while attached to car - checked the voltage across the live and ecu ground - a solid 5v, then the output to ecu ground as above. I have another sensor the same on my car so we’ll check that one and see if we get different results…. sadly the cars aren’t together so we’ll have to get mine posted which will take some time. -Christian

Ok so my initial tests would be outside this boundary…. I’ll check a couple more things. Presumably if there’s a problem it can be swapped? …. or we’ll just adjust the configuration.

Hi, What's the tolerance on the Link 4 BAR MAP sensor. We're wiring this up to a Motec, so using linear calibration setup with: - 0.2v = 20kpa - 4.8v = 400kpa We're getting a solid 5v to the live, and we have a good ground. At "sea level" with the engine not running, we're seeing 1.27v, which I calculate as 108 kpa I'd expect to see something around 1.15v for 100 kpa - or 1.18 for 101 kpa (our external barometers reads 101 where we are). Thanks for any help, Christian

Thanks Adam. That makes sense… although may be best to repin as that may confuse future mappers! Thanks!

Hi Adam, 3SGTE MR2. it’s the injectors. It’s on a distributor for ignition. Cheers!

Hi, Is it possible to change the output of the ignition points. We've a customer who's wired in their Link, but they've wired Inj 1 and Inj 2 the wrong way. Can we change this in the Link software or do we need to re-pin. It's on a "plug and play", so a bit more difficult to de-pin. Cheers!

Thanks Adam. That’s worked - although oddly, setting it to white in there, it shows up as green on the snake trail, but that’s good enough for me to see! Cheers.

Hi, Does any one know which setting in Colour Theme I need to change to change the snake trail colour (or is it somewhere else?) - the red on black is hard to see at a glance. Cheers

While I appreciate this is the G4X forum, I can confirm that in my 1993/4 MR2 having now switched to the serial cable on my G4+ Fury ecu (see above) I no longer have disconnection issues.

That’s great info - thanks Adam.

Ahh, thanks for that. On the web pages selling them they give a couple of reference for 0.5V being 45kpa (I believe) so just wanted to ensure this was just the voltage reference and not necessarily the limits of the device. Cheers for that.

Hi, Please can someone from Link confirm the pressure range the Link 4 Bar sensor can read? I'm interested in the lower (below atmospheric) pressure. Thanks!

Hi Adam, Understood. My mistake - just appears to be the same symptoms. As I say, Scott is helping with this one and sending me a USB cable... if this doesn’t work then we can look at the serial option.

I have the same issue on an MR2 but on a Link G4+ (Fury). I’m on with UK tech support who are helping and sending me a ferrite lead to try. To be fair to Link, they have been very supportive with quick responses, it we’re yet to solve. Symptoms: - connects fine with engine off - updates and store are ok - with engine running, sometimes disconnects when starting engine, and I can repeat the issue by trying to make multiple cell changes at once (say, highlight all 500 rpm calls vertically and hit Q or A a few times) or by doing a few CTRL-S store to ecu. - when just generally trying to map, it will also drop out on a change to a single cell.... does seem to be worse if the car is under load, but this is perception and not necessarily fact. My setup: - forged 3S~GTE on stock distributer / coil. Magnatec leads and iridium plugs. - charge cooler pump in boot, but this runs a constant voltage and is on when engine isn’t running while ECU connectivity is fine. - Link Fury G4+ (not X) standard comms usb cable, straight into laptop. I can repeat issue in garage on tick over. - when tuning I use an extension cable, have tried various ones but all exactly the same unreliability - predictable due to it failing without extension. - have tried various laptops and also a surface - all behave exactly the same. My tuning laptop is a cheapish (£300) Lenovo. Tuned a GT-Four ST205 on a plug in G4X last week and didn’t have a single problem with this laptop. I’ll let you know how this ferrite cable does... ...I do hope Link can fix this though as it really is a killer.

I noticed the same thing when using a surface. Freezes for 20s, and opening of menus is really slow. I actually had the same issue with my new, regular, laptop. On the surface I never resolved it - although I didn’t put too much effort in there. On regular laptop, in the end I found the Intel graphics driver was causing delays, so I removed it and went back to the standard windows default one - the downside is that the 3D table graphic no longer renders text.

Hmm, ok. I’m not entirely sure what I am to check on ignition system. It’s the same system the car was initially mapped with. Magnacor leads, NGK iridium plugs. Everything else is stock Toyota. A bit lost on this one.

Hi Adam, Thanks for the response... a lot of potential problems to worry about there :-/ I recently wired in the knock microphone. When I use this, I need to have gain very low (set to 2 (two) ) so I suspect the signal on the line is strong. Do you think this could be a cause of the interference... I don't remember if I had the same level of problems before. Cheers, Christian