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Rozsko

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  1. Ha ha! I love tst seminars. I already have payed for couple of their premium videos. This one will be a nice addition to the list. Thanks
  2. I have an ignition lead going from the coil to the plug and have a Hantek capacitive clamp attached to it. Never thought to measure current on them, but I can try. I spend so much time on this yet, so a little more doesn't matter. I know. Unfortunately at the time the block was put together, I wasn't focusing on these things, as I have never thought it will go wrong. And because of that I did not record these numbers and was totally relying on the tech who put together the engine. Ok, so after the build, I had brand new DW850 incetors, and recently I changed to a set of ID1050X as they provide PnP calibration data for the Link ECUs. These are brand new too.
  3. yea, I am trough those (and even more) and have purchased the ebook from him as well, but if you look at the waveform above, those are like white and black which leads me to think one of two things: 1) I am doing something insanely wrong when recording sec. ign signal, 2) there are some very bad things going on inside my engine's cylinders.
  4. That is what I ordered for sure, but I will ask my wife at home to check the text on it. Good point and I can't wait to get home again mid oct to finally do a static compression test.
  5. That's an awesome idea. I would never have thought about doing that. Plugs I tried both Denso and NGK, 1 range colder then OEM, but don't remember the code of those. Valve clearance (if you mean valve lash) was checked when we bolted on the the heads, but again can't remember. The tech who did the assembly said they are all good. Valve sealing were never checked, or at least I am not aware if were. Heads are Cosworth CNC ported, but were not coming as 1 assembled unit. Valves (oversized Supertech) were machined and fitted into the heads separately and the Cosworth cams were fitted after that. So different parteis were involved, yes. This week I had not much time to play with the pressure graphs, but next week I will take a deeper look at them. The other thing that bothers me is the shape of the secondary ignition wave form. They are nothing like the ones I would know to be good. oh, and thanks for the tip on that Windows app. Again, I would have never thought that you can find anything like that in the Windows app store.
  6. Thanks Stevie for your reply again. First of all, how are you measuring the in cylinder pressure with an ECU? You wired it up just for the sake of it? Unfortunately I had no time to do the manual compression test before I went back to Italy (as I am working there at the moment and I go home only ever other month), but I found the scope trace saves on my laptop when I was doing the compression test on cyl#2 and 3,and as you can see the test shows an 11.5 % difference between the two banks. Again, I am not sure if the slow response of the 300psi sensor has an effect on the measurement or not. On the spark plugs, yes. I replaced those although the ones installed were brand new Denso plugs with 1 heat range colder. The 1 range colder thing aplies to the replacement plugs too. Regarding to the coils, I swapped them and also replaced one of them as I smoked that 4 times due to leaving the scope unplugged but connected to the spark plug connector. I have no idea about the valves. When the heads were put back together, we checked the lash and they were good, but whether they are seated correctly or not, I don't know. The valves are oversized, so there were some obvious machine work involved.
  7. thanks a lot for reply. I already made a similar compression tester, but I did not trust it as the shape of the curve on the scope is too squary (if that is a word) as I assume the response time of the eBay sensor is too high. As far as 4 gas analyzer, I never tried that as I don't have one, but the misfire is pretty audible when it misses the beat.
  8. Yes, that is something on my list of to-dos. That is just a freaking pain in the back, being a flat 4 engine. But is it likely that two cylinders on the same side having exactly the same compression issue due to internal mechanical problem? This is why I was investigating from a cam side as that would equally effect two cylinders at the same time. Anyhow, next week I will do the compression test.
  9. Hey everyone, This will be a bit long, I am sorry about that, but I think knowing the history might help to understand the situation better. So, given a 07 EDM Hawk STi which I bought 4 years ago and had some serious coolant leaking problem with it. long story short, I ended up replacing the whole engine with an IAG closed deck block, forged internals, Cosworth heads with matching cams, Litchfield LM450 twinscroll turbo, ID 1050X injectors (had DW850 before that), etc... After the rebuild I was planning to tune the car myself but when I was trying to do MAF calibration (due to APS CAI being installed), the signal and the AFR readings were erratic, and Idle was sort of rough, so before moving on to the actual tune I wanted figure out if this is something wrong or just the nature of all the mods on the engine. Initially I did not realize but there were some misfire as well. Not enough to throw CEL, but definitely higher then normal (NO lightweight flywheel or crank sprocket). I bought a scope and started to look into sensor readings. While the signals were generally noisy from the ignition, everything seemed to be fine, no matter what I "fixed", no actual improvement was achieved. The only (I guess real) problem I found was the difference between left and right bank cranking compression test done with an amp clamp on the battery. There is about 15% difference in amperage and I would consider that not normal. I tried to do the a running compression test as well, but the transducer I built is far from superior, so that I was not able to use to diagnose anything. An other (real or believed) issue I found is a 5 crank degree misalignment of the left and right cam signal (this I suspected is due to timing belt jump, but that would be 15 degrees and I checked the markings and all wheel markings are lining up perfectly). Additionally I had something similar to the symptoms found in here: which is the signal of the LH cam sensor being inverting back and forth randomly at idle. Based on some technical reading this is usual with these hall sensors at low engine speed, but rotating the sensor with 180 degrees solved the issue for some and for me as well. Now that on it's own seems to effect the sensor calibration and I had the set the offset to 104 degrees instead of the OE value of 126. The cam solenoids seem to work fine, as I tested them by stepping through the vales from 0 to 40 degrees at around 1500RMP and the engine was almost stalling at 40 degrees and the cam sensor readings followed perfectly the commanded solenoid values. To be honest even today I am not sure if the square wave signals should both go from 5V to 0V, or one side should go 5 to 0 and the other from 0 to 5. Well that was little jump forward in time, as in the meanwhile I was able to source a secondhand WRXLINK107 and since then I am playing with that. The engine is running fine, I mean idles and runs well (without boost control), the AFR readings are more stable (much more) with the SD model, but I still have the misfire at idle and this along with the the left/right compression test difference and the cam signal misalignment still concerns me and I am really not sure if I could start the power tuning or should I do some more mechanical tests (which most probably would mean I need to pull the engine), but I threw too much money into the rebuild to scrap it during the tuning process (though I also bought a knockblock). Any hints, suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Béla current map + AFR target.pclr
  10. Rozsko

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    Just a quick update. I was able to do the VVT test and I had to adjust both side with ~3degrees. The error count is 0 since then, but I still have the misfire. Thx
  11. Rozsko

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    Ooops! that is a good point, just checked the base map and you are absolutely right. I forgot that I myself changed the Fuel equation mode to Modelled, as that was quite a while back before I had the ECU itself. Awesome! Thanks! Will try and see what is going on.
  12. Rozsko

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    Just a quick update on the progress and thanks very much for the help so far. Yesterday I decided to try to start the car, but it did not work. It cranked and there was no errors really that I could spot. Today I tried again, but I realized that the AFR gauge does not show any values which means there is basically only oxygen in the exhaust, so I bumped up the VE table from ~20% to ~60% in the idle region and it fired up !!! I also had to adjust the idle stepper motor position % as after the initial warm-up period, the engine died. So for particular engine config the WRXLink107 base map is way off in the VE table and the idle control. (Unfortunately I do have some misfires which I had with the OE ECU too, and now I can see some VVT error counts on the LH side, so maybe that will be the culprit) Anyhow, it is up and running now, so time do some adjustments and tuning!
  13. Rozsko

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    Yes, as the EDM STi don't have crusie control at all, so the steering wheel is lacking the buttons. Did not check all the related ECU connector pins, but as I checked B13 it is not pinned, so I guess the rest are not pinned either. I already did and both came back, but will try once again.
  14. Rozsko

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    Did a little check on the Brake light. The thing is that for me B20 pin is not connected to the ECU, but only B28 is which is Brake light#2 and is NO. --- So is there a way to configure B28 as Brake light apart from repinning the ecu connector? Or does this matter at all? the brake light itself is functioning properly. Also on the Crusie control topic, the EDM STi don't have CC at all, and unfortunately so far I was not able to get hold of an EDM Service Manual, but only USDM. What I found though that the USDM H4DOTC wiring matches the EDM STi so far, but it seems there are some functions like CC or brake switch that don't. I also found a newer release USDM manual and it seems the missing P13 pin is a problem that was a problem in the manual that I used, as this newer one already lists it correctly for both the WRX and the STi.
  15. Rozsko

    WRXLink107 pinouts

    Thanks a lot for the quick reply Adam. I finally set the ignition ON and connected to the ECU to see what is going on. Overall it looks ok, but some of the inputs/outputs and the fault codes don't make sense to me. DI5 - Brake switch NC - This is always active and even if I depress the brake pedal, it does not change. DI10 - is set to OFF, however its status is Active. I would have thought that if something is OFF, then it should be inactive. isn't that the case? Ethanol sensor - I don't have any inputs assigned, though in the runtime values screen it is shown as sensor status = ERROR. Is this how it supposed to be? I have fault codes. 1#ANV12 at GND and 2#Aux9/10 supply error. I have set ANV12 to OFF, so similar to DI5, I don't really understand why the ECU cares about its status and Aux9/10 is for the EThrottle which is functioning correctly and in the Runtime values I can see the supply voltage as 12.xV, so this is confusing me a bit. DI3 - AC request - this doesn't seem to activate when I press the AC button. Though I need to say, I removed the AC from the engine bay, but the AC switch itself turns on/off when I press it. I just wanted to see if this works, so that I can use the switch itself to control some other functions later down the line. Thanks, Béla
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