groovezog

Got it, thanks. I'll update the firmware and report back.

Hey, that's it. Thanks for always being so super helpful. Is there an easy way to turn off the limiter for this fault condition? Or change the limiter to also disable ignition as well as fuel? It just makes me very nervous of this happening while I'm in boost and under load. If fuel was cut without ignition, I'd blow my apex seals out for sure. I'm also premixing oil into the fuel, so although I'd like my Oil Metering Pump to continue working, it's not as critical for an intermittent fault. Thanks again.

I have a G4x for the Mazda RX-7 running on a Series 6 FD3S. I'm having an issue with a fuel cut (sometime partial, sometimes a 100% cut) mysteriously kicking in during the warm up period. The issue seems to go away after the motor has been at operating temperature for a couple minutes. Notes: - happens at low RPM, well under 4000 RPM, so I don't think it's cold overrev protection - Happens at partial and very light throttle, cruising or very light acceleration - happens while still in vacuum, so it's not a boost cut - Lambda looks to be safe, so I don't think it's lean protection - lasts for 0.5" to 1.5" seconds - If I'm reading the logs correctly, I see 100% fuel cut and some ignition retard at 2:47.998ms section time, but NO ignition cut (which could be dangerous especially for a rotary, right?) - Up until that section time, everything looks conservative: TPS, RPM, AFR, Knock, MAP, IAT, Batt Voltage, etc. all look like they're well within limits. I've attached the current configuration and a datalog showing several instances of the fuel cut happening. If anyone has ideas or some insight, I'd appreciate it. Thank you. PC Datalog - 2021-02-3 12_24_08 pm.llgx 2021-02-03-v5.0.pclx

@Adamw Thanks for this! I updated that table, added some fuel, and it's idling with few errors, if any. I apprecaite it.

I'm not sure if I'm asking this correctly but I'm looking for some help setting my Trigger 1 Arming Threshold on a G4x for the RX7 S6. (possibly Trigger 2 as well???) I currently have: 500=0.4v 1000=0.5v 2000+=5.5v ...and that got the car started, but the RPM graph in logging isn't smooth, it's a jagged peak and valley (like a zigzag). I've attached a trigger scope log and a short runtime log for reference. Any help is appreciated. I'm just trying to get the car started so I can set timing and make sure everything is running before I bring it to the tuner. Thanks! PC Datalog - 2020-12-11 4;43;40 pm.llgx TriggerScopeLog-2020-12-11.llgx

Excellent. That's super helpful. Thank you!

I've got a GTRLink G4+ and a Perfect Tuning Universal Gauge for the G4+ (https://perfecttuning.net/en/gauge/68-universal-gauge-linkg4.html#/19-faceplate-black_anidozed/25-transparent_cover-no) I'm unsure where to wire the CAN High (white wire) and CAN Low (green wire), or if I'm supposed to use the RS232 TX/RX (transmit and receive???) wires. I see two slots in the ECU (CAN and CAN2 in attached picture) but they don't resemble anything in any of the instructions that I read. 1) Do I need to use CAN High and CAN Low, or the RS232 TX and RS232 RX? 2) Where exactly do I wire them into the ECU and which pins exactly? 3) If I'm to use the CAN and CAN2 slots in the ECU board, where can I find the correct plug? Thanks for any help. This looks like a great gauge and I'm looking forward to setting it up and seeing what it can do.

Hey, thanks! I followed your steps and updated those settings and was able to start the car! I can see RPM in PCLink and the car's tachometer. It sounds terrible and runs only with the throttle open to 50%. It's also smoking a lot, but that's probably from oil that leaked past the pistons and into the head when I had the motor out of the car. The alternator is squeaking, so I'm going to replace it, and then see if the oil burns away. Also, I was able to verify oil pressure only after it started, not while cranking.

Hi Adam, Thanks for the reply. The RPM does not change when I'm cranking, neither in PCLink, nor on the car's tachometer. It seems that this tells you something... I'm showing "Fault code 49: An temp 3 above error high value" but I think that's just the IAT sensor. I have also tried unplugging the camshaft position sensor to disable fuel and spark. Only when I disconnect the CPS do I see the error: "Fault code 26: An volt 6 error below low value." The car's dash doesn't show any oil pressure when I crank the starter for a few seconds, nor does the PCLink software show any oil pressure. Thanks again for the help.

Hello, I've just finished restoring a 1991 R32 GTR. I have some experience with Hondata, but I'm struggling to figure out the basic settings that I need in PCLink to simply get the motor started. I'd like to make sure everything is working properly before I bring it to a tuner. I've tried to start the motor with the basemap included in the software, but it doesn't work. Setup: Older G4 ECU ID2000 high-impedance injectors Fuel pressure regulator set to 40psi R35 coil packs (dwell time should not exceed 4.5? instructions attached) 92 octane gasoline I have updated the firmware and calibrated the MAP and TPS. If anybody could help with a modified basemap or making the correct settings in PCLink, I would appreciate it. If I can provide more information, let me know. Thank you very much in advance. ~Jason Nissan GTS-GTR G4 Storm Plugin.pcl Supertec Racing VR38 to RB Coil Adapter Kit Install Guide Rev.3.pdf