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kramit

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  1. Cj - the wiring is completely original and they are both ignition live fed and im pretty sure nothing else is feeding the ecu a permanant 12 volts either. Both solenoids have a 12v supply with the ecu loom A unplugged, as they are fed through the key with igniton on Adamw - i did read about that with the r34 on another post but i have removed the following from the car including most wiring / relays / fuses and sensors - air con, hicas, power steering, purge valve, maf, idle air control valve. When i say removed i mean everything to do with them. All traces of cables linking them, hicas ecu, associated wiring the lot. I may of missed one or 2 bits of cable (when it gos into the internal fusebox then comes out somewhere else on it, i didnt following it out the other side) Sorted!!!! technically it was none of this at all, wasnt a solenoid, wasnt anything it was the ignition live i used for the eccs relay that ended up staying alive, i had a 'spare igintion live' that i kept just in case under some tape, chucked that on, put the other one to the ethrottle relay as thats triggered by the ecu and now the car turns off and on as it should do.
  2. Hey everyone, I have a wire in xtreme in my r34 gtt, however since installation it has always held power when the car is turned to ignition on, if the car is not started it will just hold that state. If the car is started and then turned off it behaves properly. I have had this issue for the last few months (when it was installed) but i have had other niggles to deal with first, i have had a look at narrowing the back feed down and have got to a good(ish) place doing so. So the wire in ecu used the OEM loom where applicable, i.e mac valve used the old two stage solenoid wiring, 4 bar sensor used the original map sensor wiring. I have got a ethorttle, which is wired in as per the link documents and into aux 8 for the ethrottle relay trigger, this disconnected does not help my issue, nor with the relay unplugged. I have found that the only two things that stop the ecu from powering down are solenoids, if i unplug the VCT solenoid and only that one it remains on until the mac valve is unplugged, with either of these plugged in the ecu always holds the power. If however i leave both of these unplugged the ecu / car behaves like any other and turns on and off where it should, so basically i am asking what is the best way i can stop the two solenoids from back feeding the ECU? As the ecu doesn't control the ECCS relay it is no longer permanent live and ground triggered by the oem ecu, it is now a ignition live on the coil to ground. I just want to get this niggle sorted then i can start adding the other bits i have laying around in as i don't want to add anything else to the mix while i am still having a issue.
  3. updated log / maps attached - the issue isn't any better re-done grounds, earth braids, power grounds and have tried trigger filtering levels 1/2/3. works fine on mild throttle, however once it is under more load well, i wouldn't call it a misfire, its kind of just dies and comes back on the power, i don't really know how to explain it. the time between 5:55:600 and 5:57:100 is my main concern, its when there is some wastegate voltage it just seems to go to pot. this is what i see, on the log linked below the cas line looks stable where the issue is, the KPA hits 212, then there is some DC voltage on the boost control, so it opens, pulse width drops by 3% on the injectors, injector duty then falls by about 8% (whilst i am still on open throttle) due to the drop in boost pressure, so the map drops and the wastegate shuts then i can have fuel again all in a split second. whats your thoughts? 07-05-19 last run.llg map01.pclr
  4. Well i double checked the ground outs. Were all good even re ran them and that was no help so i removed them again. I had the fuel map smoothed, iginiton increased, reducded my wastegate spring down to a 7 psi spring, turned on closed loop boost control, set to 0%, trigger filtering upped to level 2, spark plugs still gapped to .6mm. Now from the old ecu pin 45 (trigger ref) is set as trigger 2, pin 46 (trigger pos) is set as trigger 1, the interesting thing is though when i moved the ground to a position by itself the car had no trigger sync, so, i reverted it back to where it was, as i am on the wirein as apose to the plugin wheres the "ideal" place to put the cas ground with introducing the minimum amount of noise. On the OEM ecu the braided shield itself went to pins 32 / 25 which are control unit grounds. I am assuming thats the old ecus ground outs. So is it best to just connect all of these straight to the body of the car together, want to check everything simple and eliminate any case / chance of interference first I dont just want to go ahead and chuck a crank trigger kit at it (even though it would do it wonder)
  5. Well i am going to disconnect the old one (pin 124) from the body then. And check the continuity reading from the ecu grounds, i will also move them all to the best measured point this morning, as well as giving the trigger its own sensor ground, which im doing now. So hopefully i will have some results within the next couple of hours. Thanks for everyones replies so far.
  6. Also, just want to clarify, to make sure all my grounds are correct, 4 x ground pins (2 on each plug) are to two separate points on the block / head. The ground and shield ground cables are all green, if using a link ecu loom, im using the factory, so any can be used for any sensor which makes sense. My question is the injector ground from the oem pin 124 / 116. Where should they go ideally?
  7. Cj - i will try the trigger filtering later on today and see if that makes any difference at all. Worth a try, so thank you for that. The boost control is currently just controlled by a EWG spring (hypergate 45) i have set it with a 17psi spring, it is trurned off on the ecu at the minute as was going to get the car running well with just the speing rate first, then it will be turned on in which it has a 3 port mac valve plumbed into the wastegate in dual port mode. The boost spike, i believe thats just when i add a bit of throttle because the boost does come on extremely quickly, (sxe252 supercore) its very responsive any ever so slight throttle makes a huge difference. Im also going to smooth the fuel map out alot probably today / tomorrow whenever i can get a spare couple of hours. Hopefully coupled with the trigger filtering it will be okay.
  8. Well i also thought misfire might be causing it so last night i regapped them from .8mm to .6mm to try and rule it out. But that didnt seem to help, i also altered the dwell time after this and it also didnt seem to help out much. I know the fuel map also looks like a pig at the minute, but i will be smoothing that out later tonight, im just a bit perplexed by it, the only other thing i though is, is the CAS trigger affecting it all
  9. I have attatched a log file and a copy of the map (still in progress) Whilst trying to trim the fuel map, I managed to start the cruising / very light load map, 22% throttle or less. However once i went to put a bit more throttle in it kept wanting to, what seemed like, ignition cut at around 5700 rpm, throttle about 33%, so still a really light pull, i also didn't get any map limit codes (set to 300kpa), boost control was turned off, wastegate spring is set to 17psi. I am hoping that i have overlooked something really simple and stupid. attempt1.pclr log1.llg
  10. kramit

    R34 GTT E-throttle

    Yeah the Ethrottle when stalled is set to run throttle as apose to quiet throttle. I did find my issue about 10 minutes ago, was a small oversight, i didn't realise you had replied, the ethrottle table was set up as TP Main vs RPM, so i changed it to AP main vs RPM and yeah, that worked as it should. Obviously needs that signal to know to move, was set otherwise to open when the rpm increased with no control input from me which isn't helpful ha. But yeah small oversight but all good. Thanks for the reply though
  11. kramit

    R34 GTT E-throttle

    I have a link xtreme ecu wire in ecu in my car, but i am having a few issues with the e-throttle setup itself. The pedal i'm using is out of a 350z and the TB is part number 99660511501. Both the pedal and TB passes the auto calibration with no issue whatsoever. When you press the pedal you see the Voltages change for the APS main / sub Only thing is it doesn't seem to communicate with the throttle body itself, when the pedal is depressed the thorttle body doesnt move. The throttle body will move however if you change the target on the table to a different %. i.e i can get it to any position between 0-100% with the engine off, in setup mode using the target table. Just aside from using that way to move the throttle it doesn't seem to do anything, any help / advice would be greatly appreciated.
  12. Sent you a pm for more info.
  13. Just a quick question, i have a the gtt plug in which i will be fitting into the car shortly but at the same time i am converting to E-throttle, i have the following to fit; 76mm Bosch DBW TB 350z pedal with sensors. I was mainly just looking for what pins to use as it says to use Aux4 and Aux9 in the help file which is fine, sot of, aux 4 is the old IACV pin 11, but what pin is aux9? also the e throttle relay, where does that one go? If someone has a complete wiring guide for it, it would be much appreciated. i know the following pin outs 350z pedal Bosch TB 1 - Sensor Ground 1 - Motor (-) 2 - APP1 2 - TPS (-) 3 - Sesnor Ground 3 - TPS (5v+) 4 - +5V (app1) 4 - Motor (+) 5 - APP2 5 - TPS 2 (out) 6 - +5v (app2) 6 - TPS 1 (out) If it helps i don't need any outputs for the AC or the PAS as they both have been completely removed as has the IACV, due to being redundant with an e-throttle.
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