[350z g4x plugin]

9 minutes ago, Laminar said:

You'll need to change your share settings from "Restricted" to "Anyone with the link."

I’m sorry. I changed share settings. 

[350z g4x plugin]

Hello, 

I attached logs and calibration to my google drive. Here is the links. When you open the calibration there is note that says dbw is in setup mode. When I have the first  log (name starts with 1) dbw setup mode is not on and we dirve the car may be 8-10 minutes after that at last seconds it gives the error code 69 and 75 and engine stops, you can clearly see that on the first log's (start with 1) end. Second log (start with 2) I think DBW is still not in the setup mode, we start and drive after that engine stops again after some time. And on third log (start with 3) I think I start the engine with DBW mode on setup but engine starts very low rpm like 400 and also throttle body did not respond to gas pedal, just works on 400 rpm.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dV3ccW8GDtt_dXZvf0T8d1Au-I8yVNsp/view?usp=drive_link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dKruSUsbaA7cdVzOSDEa_m7soXHykyYv/view?usp=drive_link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/17-hg8EHcj1BXXWS25uyqqQV1_To8vnqC/view?usp=drive_link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Oc4yDJJnvTe_aht29l-VPD7HeQW_60ji/view?usp=drive_link
 

[350z g4x plugin]

55 minutes ago, AbbeyMS said:

are you using the PID that Link supplied or have you tweaked the PID  numbers? Looks like the throttle body been driven to hard open

Yes I’m using PID Link supplied did not change anything, just make auto calibration for tps and make calibration for pedal. What are you advise? 

[350z g4x plugin]

Hello, I tuned a nissan 350z with g4x plugin ecu. DBW throttle gives error sometimes when "ON" mode. Error code is "ecu fault code 69" which is E-throttle Max DC error. But on setup mode there is no error. How can I solve this issue?

Thanks.

[Subaru V9]

19 hours ago, Adamw said:

Yes it looks like it needed more DC, and is happier in your 2nd log.  It may still need more to give adequate response speed for quick changes in target but cant tell much from the log when it is just steady state. 

It is pretty unusual to need more than 50% DC on an EJ, usually they sit around 36-38%, it may indicate a mechanical issue is developing, so keep a close eye on it.  Potentially low oil pressure, a blocked avcs filter or internal leak.    

thank you for great support as always. I already told the customer to check the filters and oil pressure wit his mechanic before finish the tune. 

[Subaru V9]

On 1/26/2024 at 2:02 AM, Adamw said:

No, do a log first to see what the duty cycle is doing so you have some data to base any decisions to adjust on and also so you have some "before" data to compare to after making the change. 

Hello, here is the logs:
Name: 1 AVCS issue is with default settings. (This log you will see on begining lof log with default settings LH cam works good with default settings but after some time and I think oil gets hot you will see at around end of log  LH cam starts to fall back like target is 10 but actual vvti degree is 2-3).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cD5NhGx9ZhOudEKN2FwMBanZ5J7CfMK4/view?usp=drive_link

Name: 2 AVCS issue LH 80ect 5* to 55% (This file as I noted to te name I chaged %DC only 80 degree ect to 55 (default is50) and it seems work good).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10KeIQCwVq4-No_jxgeWsWRDX85YLRSoL/view?usp=drive_link

 

Please after saw the logs let me know what you think or adivse,

Thank you.

[Subaru V9]

17 hours ago, Adamw said:

Would need to see a log to see what the solenoid duty cycle is doing but most likely it is PID related.  Quite often on the subarus you will need quite different base duty cycle on each side and sometimes different PID. 

Today I take the car for drive. When engine oil is not get normal operating range AVCS works perfect with normal settings. After some drive and engine oil gets hot AVCS starts to come back. As I said before target is 10 and actual degree is 3-4. I forgot to have log because of its ok first. Do you advise to change pid settings only (increase slowly) or because of heat related just change the max DC clamp on Inlet LH custom settings?
On Inlet LH max dc clamp is 50% at 80 degree ect, I thought to try %55.
 

[Subaru V9]

Hello, today one subaru impreza sti v9 come to me for tuning. Ecu is G4+ plugin with 5sockets. I saw that AVCS not working correctly on Inlet LH cam, so I follow the calibration procedure and used the lowest number. When I did that AVCS target is 10 degree but camshaft turns around 3 degree. So, I increased the vvti offset value one by one under DI1 and after it start to shows same. When target is 10 degree, actual is 10 degree. I don't understand why Link's procedure did not solve the AVCS in first try. Do you think its a bad solenoid or do you think the way I did was wrong?

[TriggerScope]

4 hours ago, Adamw said:

It looks like the cam timing is out.  Trig 2 should be about 40deg further to the left than yours is.

Pink line shows roughly what trig 2 should look like. 

  

Hello Adamw,

Thank you for reply. What can be the issue? Engine starts and works fine before this issue starts, can it be a mechanical issue or bad crank sensor? Because when engine starts (but misfires) ecu see that engine revs around 1500-3500 and less often cold rpm limit (5000rpm). What are you advise to me to check ?

[TriggerScope]

Any advice from link stuff ? 

[TriggerScope]

Hello, here is a trigger scope from g4+ kurofune ecu. Engine is 4g63, engine starts but see low vacum and also it reads rpm high between 1500-3500, sometimes even it writes rpm limit activated (loe ect rev limit is at 5000rpm). There is signal from both sensors but it counts trig1 error. I saw some fluctuations on scope, I'm not sure but may be the issue is cam sensor? Can someone check this trigger scope? If this is not the sensors what can be the issue? mechanical? 

 

Trigger Scope Log 2023-12-5 4;21;57 pm.llg

[how to set up link plug in b16a coil on plug]

2 hours ago, anewjer00 said:

i know this is super old but im having similar questions other that its a k24 engine , its running very well with the link hc20x for the honda k20 however I cannot get a straight answer on exactly how to confirm ignition timing to be matching the ecu. what is the correct way to put a timing light on this crank and what marks mean what ? i have heard lots of completely different answers here however my car doesnt like any of the answers i have heard and will not run correct as instructed . I get a light pulse when i use the inductive clamp of timing light around all 3 coil wires together like for cylinder 1 and even with all 3 wires clamped the rpm is correct, however everyone says you use the actual arrow on the timing cam cover thats oriented to the left , but my timing would have to be set like -35 or so offset for that to be correct but seems to run correctly using the indicator on the timing cam cover thats oriented to the right side of the arrow and lines up with an offset of -5 @ 14 degrees timing locked by the link , ill try to attatch a diagram that would show what im saying about the wrong way to my engine at least ! the 3 marks that are close together line up @ mark c in image below again at offset of -5 with timing locked at 14 , is this correct?

First you need to lock your ignition from Link’s software. After that if your timing light have offset adjustment you will set it to which degree you lock your ignition on Link’s sofrware. This way you can use single B mark because lets say you lock at 10 degree and put your timing light 10 and you use tdc mark. If your timing light don’t have offset adjustment, you need to lock your timing from Link software to 14 or 16 or 18, this is 3 close dots on the crank wheel and lets say you locked to 16 point A and point C’s middle dot should allign. If not change trigger offset number until marks allign.

[JDM DC5 Alternator fault]

11 hours ago, Vaughan said:

Do you know if the alternator on it is the one from the jdm cl7 or is the original one from the DC5?

Thanks

My customer bought the car as it is. So we are thinking complete cl7 engine swap with alternator but we are not 100% sure. 

[JDM DC5 Alternator fault]

21 hours ago, Vaughan said:

Would you be able to give us any information on your specific car if possible? Things like what year is it, facelift or pre facelift, exact motor code, alternator part number, picture of chassis plate etc? This would help us narrow down which models need alternator control and which models are switched voltage levels.

Thanks

Car is 2004 jdm market integra dc5 type r. Motor code is K20A but motor is from jdm cl7 accord euro r (Accorda has different ecu normally so I think the alternator is different) also I looked to alternator there is no writing on it. I forgot to have picture but chassis is LA-DC5-220….. I road tuned the car yesterday and owner said when he turns on head lights battery light come on and off after 1-2 seconds. So I increased the minimum clamp to 25. I think he will not have issue again. 

[Link Kurofune]

On 3/27/2023 at 1:38 AM, Adamw said:

Yes, with engine kill active there will be no spark or fuel.  This is because DI1 Ignition switch input is off.  If this is not connected in your loom then set DI1 function to off and also turn off ECU Hold Power function on Injector drive 8.

Thank you, issue was On level should be High.

[JDM DC5 Alternator fault]

On 3/28/2023 at 11:31 PM, Vaughan said:

In our testing the DC5 alternator control was a switched output with the alternator regulating to either 13v with the output on active low or 14v with the output off.

We have also seen on some other Honda vehicles (based on the one alternator part number I have been given it was a slightly newer civic) that the alternator control is PWM based with the ECU regulating the voltage (using the alternator control function).

Given that your car is seeing 18V I suspect that it might have an ECU regulated alternator, my recommendation would be to copy the alternator control settings from one of the NB MX5 sample maps and to set the Aux 8 active state to High as I suspect it is currently operating in reverse for you. Once you have done this please take a short PC log of you starting and running the car and then attach that and a copy of your basemap here please.

Thank you, MX5 setting looks like works very good. Only chage I make is, I used 23 for "Min clamp" because on idle when rpm drops little turns on battery sign if I use 10 for "min clamp"

On 3/28/2023 at 11:52 PM, Adamw said:

I was just typing something similar to Vaughan.  All documentation I can find for the DC5 only mentions the "dual mode" charging system as Vaughan describes where it can only do normal voltage or low voltage, but I have seen a couple of reports from users that had very high voltage with aux 8 off.  They were all engine swap applications though so I assumed there must be some other model alternator.  

If you had the opportunity it would be really nice to know the frequency that the Hondata is using to control the alt - most modern multimeters have a frequency function if you dont have access to a scope.  I believe some PWM alternators can be fussy with frequency although 250Hz seems to be most common.

I think Vaughan's suggestion of trying the NB MX5 settings would be a good test.  Before you do your log, can you also go to PID Setup down the bottom of the ecu settings tree and set that to Alternator control so we get a log of what the control loop is doing.  

BTW, if the 18V fuel cut is preventing you from testing, you can go to >engine protection>sys voltage limit and adjust it higher there.  

Sorry Adamw my mutlimeter did not have frequency option. So I couldn't meausre it but  250hz looks like work very good. By the way I record a small datalog if you want to check.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ggS_Rpsj2DKM9l4l1SH76vQ-vO7qqoK4/view?usp=sharing

 

[JDM DC5 Alternator fault]

Hello, today I bought a new plugin ecu for my customer jdm DC5 type r. I used the map inside the plugin ecu and when I start the engine aux 8 gives fault and also ecu voltage high error. I see that battery voltage goes up to 18v and goes to fuel cut on and off. When I check manual see that aux  8 is connected to alternator control. Even its auxilary output -> alternator control is none it tries to control I think. So, I make alternator control none to aux8 and tried to control the alternator but I don't know the pid settings etc. So I tried for proportional 3, integra 0.5, and derivative to 0.5 to 3 but nothing solves the issue. I tried a known map (map from a car before I tuned) and same issue again. I also checked with voltmeter on battery, charging goes upto 18 but with hondata ecu (customer has hondata kpro, he will sell it after link ecu tuned) charging never goes more than 14.2. First I think alternator have some issue but when I see it with hondata its ok, I want to ask here.  
Also I tried to reduce max clamp to 60 and nothing change.

[Link Kurofune]

On 3/6/2023 at 11:06 AM, Adamw said:

That looks more like an Evo1-6 trigger pattern to me, give that a try.  

When I use trigger pattern evo 1-6, there is signal on trig1 and trig2. I tuned "off" pullups since this ecu is connected with oem ecu. But  engine did not work. I noticed that "engine kill" is ON and also there is no spark when cranking. But I couldn't find what causes Engine Kill. And I ask for verify, this ecu is Kurofune and I connect with latest version of PCLink G4+ software. and I open plugin base map in it but find the correct inputs and outputs. There is a cranking datalog, may be you can help to me. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IZT-3_fWbfZJXHVwne6QjaPgviOuLtjq/view?usp=sharing

[activating Nos]

On 3/16/2023 at 5:13 PM, koracing said:

This logic looks good to me for standard on/off activation with the exception that I would set the activation for the 4D tables for fuel and ignition to Aux5 so they also need to see DI5 active as well to be enabled as well as virtual aux 1. 

How do you have the solenoids wired?  Nitrous solenoids can draw 8+ Amps which far exceeds the current rating of the auxiliary outputs on the ecu so you should have these wired to a relay/pdm or something else triggered by the ecu to activate.

Personally I would put a pressure sensor on the solenoid output side and trigger the tables by seeing a particular pressure coming out of the solenoid - so the tables only activate if nitrous is *actually* flowing.  I would also add a sensor pre-solenoid to ensure the bottle pressure is correct and open.

Hello, thank you for advise and I changed 4d tables activation to aux5.

NX kit have their own relay, so I just use aux5 as ground trigger.

I don’t have enough experience for that kind off control. Does it work and wire link boost solenoid ? 

[activating Nos]

16 hours ago, Hodgdon Extreme said:

First, understand I'm new at this - so don't take my advice as gospel at all. A large part of me responding at all is to test myself and learn from others' criticism.

That out of the way; it looks to me like the only thing you're really missing is assigning a GP Output to your Virtual AUX 1 - perhaps use GPO8.

Once you do that, you can assign the conditions that make Virtual Aux 1 go active/inactive - and then feed that forward into the condition set that control GP Output 7 (Nitrous control).

For example, you can set the conditions for VA1 to become active as: DI5 active and TPS > 95%

This way, you can assign up to 6 different conditions (3 from GPO7 NOS control + 3 from GPO8 VA1)

Also, I see no reason not to apply your extra fuel and ignition retard to your entire 4D fuel/spark tables. This way it won't matter when VA1 goes active - you'll still get + fuel and -spark... You could of course add RPM as a condition to your GPO7 or GPO8 programming, so that it can never go active in a region of your 4D tables where there isn't fuel/spark correction mapped out.

Last, have you considered the concept of driving your nitrous solenoid via a PWM output so you can ramp the nitrous in according to duty cycle?

 

Hello, thank you for support. 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/19tPJVZhGS2eWLj2ZaenidmRHC408K1Bf/view?usp=sharing

I set virtual aux1 to 4d fuel and 4d ignition table trigger. And adjust the virtual aux1 conditions as gear (3 and up), engine speed (6000 and up) and tps (90 and up). And for solenoid output  on aux5 triggered if virtual aux1 and di5 active. 

Is it correct now ? @Hodgdon Extreme and @Adamw

 

[activating Nos]

Hi, I want to control nos solenoid. 

I tried with this link but this is for g4+. I  couldn't make my nos wiring details and also I want to add more conditions like rpm limit. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jS61H6Rf--SUa6t1M7ovIlN4mNq9OvpM/view?usp=share_link
I attached my map file. Please check for me. Actually what I want is, arm the ecu with DI5 and trigger the nos solenoid with aux5. I also want to add fuel and retard ignition with 4d tables so for 4d tables activation I choose DI5 but if I can add more condition I will be better (like when rpm limit is active, nos output will stop). Please check my map and also help to nos input outputs. 

[Link Kurofune]

58 minutes ago, Adamw said:

The google share links are restricted.  Can you go back into there settings and change it to the option that reads something like "anyone with link".

I’m sorry. I just did as “anyone with link”.

[Link Kurofune]

Hello, I tried to start a mitsubishi outlander 4g63t with automatic transmission with Link Kurofune. Because of car is automatic HKS ecu pluged in like piggyback ecu and it works with HKS ecu, owner don't want to deal with HKS anymore and he bought a used Kurofune ecu. I upload a g4+ evo plugin map to Kurofune. Find the map sensor and tps and calibrate it, changed trigger settings to evo 7-9, turned of the pullups to off because of ecu wired in like piggyback. Car has 1000cc sard injectors so I lowered the master fuel ms from 14 to 8 (also 10). What I noticed is injector 2 3 4 is wired wrong (I will change them form pins) but anyway while cranking ignition goes off. I tried to change trigger signals edges, tried to turn on pullups etc but when first crank ignition comes only one time and goes. Engine did not work. Usually there is signal on trig1 and trig2 but occasionally trig2 has no signal. I captured a trigger scope, I think when I captured the scope pullups are on. I can't upload here there is very small space (why) so, I upload to google drive and ladd their links of tune and scope. Is there anything wrong with scope or any settings? Why ignition goes of after only one spark? 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/195ZnHv4NFz3kaSlEjevekzBpb_fZUZ_l/view?usp=share_link
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vs4Axf0RH4GIMDwepsh-XH8uz8LtIxKY/view?usp=share_link

[Ecumaster display]

On 12/21/2022 at 11:50 AM, Simon_s13 said:

I have the  ADU 7 connected to my link storm and all works fine. 

You can also connect the link straight to the ADU on “CAN 2” without an external resistance, ADU software has the option to add the can bus terminator. But you need to activate it.

 

 

I can copy the last version of my ADU to confirm you all details if you need them to run your one but will need to be during the weekend.

This is on Link g4+ civic plugin ecu, I think there is only 1 can bus. Can I use same settings for can1 ? 

[Error 7: Limited TPS (Sub) movement.]

While I try to calibrate dbw throttle, I get this error. Why ecu gives this error? Thank you.