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  1. @Adamw ahh i see, thats strange i had the triggers all calibrated and base ignition timing setup perfectly and running fine on the old NA map and have just copied those values across and i havent touched the dizzy cap in the process of strapping the turbo on the motor. Trigger scope log attached - there was no signal waveform happening as i was cranking at all but no doubt you will see that in the log. Thanks Trigger Scope Log 2020-05-11 6;54;54 pm.llg
  2. Thanks @Adamw please see dropbox links for tune and log as below: - https://www.dropbox.com/s/4qctw6fywa9qelf/B18CR Low boost (5 psi spring) 11.05.20.pclr?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/n5ndl620nw4qxd9/Log 2020-05-11 3%3B29%3B48 pm- Cranking.llg?dl=0
  3. Thanks @Adamw please see tune attached. Will post log in another post as it wont let me upload both for some reason.
  4. Thanks Adam, what parameters would you like me to specifically log?
  5. Hey Guys, Im having major issues getting my B18CR Turbo EG hatch started after adding a bunch of new parts for the turbo setup. When the car was non turbo and basically stock i had it running well on the G4+ PNP ECU followed all the first startup instructions and started first pop and ran like a dream. Ive now added a turbo setup and changed the injectors for a set of 1000cc Xspurt and a DW200 fuel pump which i have hard wired and i have had major issues getting it to start and especially cold start. I have had it running a few times since the new fuel system has been added which to get it started i just played with the Master Fuel number till it started sounded better and it did crank for a while with a bit of jumping around before starting but it did start. Since then i played around with the crank enrich (took like 20% out of the 2d table) to get it to start easier which worked sort of ok but still a long way from being right. So just to clarify : - Old setup - Standard 240cc injectors - standard fuel pump - standard fuel pressure reg New Setup - Xspurt 1000cc injectors - DW200 Pump - Standard fuel pressure reg Once it was running i was adjusting the fuel map and master fuel and it was running well at idle but as soon as i killed it and tried to restart was very hard even when warm. Now it just wont start at all and doesnt even have any encouraging noises when cranking like it did before. I have cleaned the plugs multiple times as they were a bit fouled from all the super rich starting and still nothing. Im pretty sure its fuel related issue but im now a bit lost as to where to go as any adjustments are having no effect at all. Happy to take a log to show you guys whats going on (maybe a bit of instruction on the best way to do this and what parameters to log would help as im a bit of a newb). Thanks Kenian
  6. Have you done all the pre start process? Checking the injectors, trigger calibration, map sensor calibration and TPS calibration? If youve done all this i would check the trigger error counter? If you are not sure of this search trigger error in the PC link and it explains it all. Not sure of the COP conversion but also i would make sure the ignition setup is correct - i had a honda where the previous owner had set the mode to falling instead of rising as the hondas ignitor polarity is opposite to traditional falling setups.
  7. Ahhh yep i did need to scroll up as i was only seeing 0 and below in the drop downs and now its working perfectly. Thanks a lot for your help sorting this - much appreciated.
  8. Ok so tried that and then them lambda gauge doesnt move at all. Gets the extremly blocky whacky signal when the ID position is at 1. I took a screen record to show you whats happening. Even when the signal ID is set at 0 the red portion at the bottom just highlights in the 0 fields instead of the 1 feilds so theres still something not right in the setup. Should i try putting a terminating resistor in and just eliminate that as a potential issue? Thanks Screenrecord compressed.mp4
  9. Ok im an idiot - i realised i still had one of the Analogue inputs setup as Lambda 1 from when i had the wideband running 0-5v. So changed that and im getting the info over CAN but its really really slow and laggy/blocky. I blip the throttle and nothing changes, i give it a good rev and it will really chunky and slowly change and then just revert back to the number it was on before i punched the throttle and it does not look like live data it is just a fixed number thats not constantly changing and only changes if you give it a good stab but then as i said extremely delayed. Do i need to add in a 120 ohm terminating resistor? I have attached my tune hopefully you can see whatever i have done wrong. Much appreciated. Honda Civic 96-99 G4+ Xtreme Plugin KENIAN 24.01.20.pclr
  10. Hi Guys, i am trying to get the wideband data from my AEM X series UEGO into my link G4 over CAN. It is a link g4 plugin for a 96-98 honda (HC96). I have used the pre made loom from NZEFI which i have plugged into the CAN 1/RS232 port on the ecu board. The guy @ NZEFI said not to bother with terminating resistors if the lead is under 1m which it is so i have just wired the can high and lo from the gauge loom directly to the corresponding high and lo on the loom plugged into the ECU - i have not used terminating resistor/s. The AEM wideband has preset can streams in PC link so i have used that and followed the exact instructions on how to setup this gauge for CAN from the help section of PC link. also the CAN ID on the gauge is set as 1. I have attached the settings used to try set this gauge up which is not working. Can anyone see anything obviously wrong with what i have done in PC link or is it the fact there is no terminating resistor/s that is causing this issue? I get the feeling i am not setting up the CAN ID's correctly possibly?? Any help on this much appreciated.
  11. Ok cool thanks for clearing that up Much appreciated!!
  12. Thanks for your reply Adam. Just to clarify are you saying that the AEM can wiring should already have the terminating resistor in the harness or I will need to add in myself? Thanks Kenian
  13. Hi Guys, Just trying to figure out how to wire my new AEM X series wideband into my G4+ using the CAN output from the wideband controller. I am a complete newbie in regards to the CAN network. I am looking at purchasing the below harness from NZEFI but have a few questions:- https://www.nzefi.com/product/nzefi-link-g4-g4-plug-ecu-can-cable/ I am a little bit confused as to where the power and ground come into the picture? I was under the impression i could just wire the CAN High and CAN Low coming out of the controller to the CAN High and CAN Low coming out of the ECU harness (little white plug). Does the CANBUS system need power to work? If you have a read of the NZEFI link it says " In order to supply power and ground to the devices(s) on your CAN-bus, power and ground wires are also included in the loom in the form of a flying lead." What exactly does it mean by supply power and ground to the devices on your CANBUS? The wideband is already supplied with a power and ground. Also do i need to employ a 120 ohm terminating resistor or is this only used when you create a BUS with more than one device on the BUS? I have looked at the wideband manual and done a bit of Googling but had no luck finding a meaningful answer. Any help much appreciated. Thanks Kenian
  14. Kenian

    LINK G4+

    I beleive that this is correct - just like a sr20DE i setup recently both trig 1 and trig 2 are driven off the CAS that is located inside the distributor cap and no crank trigger is needed. Ive just had a quick google on trigger setup for this engine and there seems to be alot of info on Megasquirt formums regarding trigger wiring etc. You can most likely get your answers off that.
  15. Kenian

    Lambda signal

    Youll need to wire the 0-5v output from your wideband into pin 13 of your ECU (AN Volt 3) which is currently setup for NB Oxy and then got to AN Volt 3 under analougue inputs and change the function from "NB Oxy" to "Lambda 1" and then choose the calibration from the presets or input the calibration details from you your wideband controller. or you could use the AEM X-series UEGO that has CANBUS capability and wire it into your ECU over CAN and the link software already has this device setup as a preset stream. E36+.pdf the pin location etc is all in the attached manual for your ECU from page 17 onwards.
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