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Chris Simms

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    22
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About Chris Simms

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/30/1979

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Yorkshire UK
  • Interests
    Anything with wheels or big cannons...
  1. Gonna ignore the g1 loom tmrw and go shielded ground pin on the G4 direct to the st205 loom and see what gives... Just had a pal at work with better eyesight than me check over the G1 loom adaptor.... ignore what I said about G- goin to an iac wire... G- and E1 pins appear to be going to be spliced together and going to one of the sig ground pins on the G1 plug.... AND to the ground out pin on the G4 if this all makes sense... I left the g1 plugs attached btw just incase this all went t1ts up and I hadda move the car. if all grounds are connected inernally this should be right? Right? Thanks Chris
  2. Sorry i couldnt see that much Brad then the heavens opened on me (you gotta love English weather). When i wired the G4+ into the G1 loom i went.... (As instructed) Trig 1 and 2 on the G4 to trig 1 and 2 on the G1. Wired the 2 big earths on the G4 to the 2 bigs earths on the G1 2 sig ground wires on the G1 got spliced together and went to ground out on the G4. Odd things that dont make sense today... On both the link ecus neither the SHIELDED GROUNDS pins is used? Been told all the grounds are linked internally in the G4 would this make any diffrence? Another wierd one... What looks to be the the dizzy G- pin on the st205 patch loom i got with the G1 ages ago (its hard to tell till i double check the origional loom wire colours) looks to go to an ISC wire on the G1? Summised so far that i might need something goin to the sheilded ground on the G4? Many thanks Chris
  3. Hi all Just tried to crank her over again with the triggers settings etc above. Still no joy. Wont let me upload the logs either for some reason says they are too big. Took off the dizzy cap but couldnt get the rotor off, will get some allen keys from work tonight and try again tmrw. Counted the teeth as best as i could and it looks to be 24. Ive owned he car since 2006 when it was imported bone stock from japan so i know the dizzy etc is still totally stock st205. Gonna knock up a neighbour now and try to crank her with a timing light on. Will try and get those logs posted asap. Many thanks Chris
  4. Ducie54... MUCH MUCH appreciated dude. Will go try these now and see what happens. Thanks Chris
  5. Hi Brad Thanks for the reply. Will take a pic tmrw. Think I need to take a step back to fully understand all this... Am I right in thinking because trigger 1 isnt goin above 0.2v and giving a signal to fire the coil this is the starting issue or is the trigger/rpm reading messing up cranking timing etc? Thanks again Chris
  6. Hi Adam My dizzys still completely stock mate. Apart from irridium plugs the entire ignition system is stock import st205. How do i begin to make trigger happy? Strip and clean the dizzy? Started like a champ literally any weather on the G1+ this is why im so confused. Will try dropping trigger 2 to 0.2v the same s trig 1 tmrw morning and let you know how i go. What else should i try? Thanks again Chris
  7. Hi Brad Really appreciate your help. ive not calibrated the triggers. Feel like a douch asking but how do I calibrate the triggers? Do i..... Set the trigger lock to 0 deg in the software then keep turning the dizzy till thate crank mark matches at 0 with my gun so they are sync'd? How far do they have to be out to stop it starting? Im thinking its gotta be timing too. Still confused tho as to why its so out on the basemap thats spose to get you running. Pls forgive my ignorance : ) Many many thanks again Chris
  8. Its an atom 2 wire in ecu btw running the st205 basemap out the basemap folder. says the ignitions locked on the bademap to 15 btdc. Shouldnt this be 10? Also triggers in the basemapsay "multitooth" but theres an option for 3sge vvti (3sgte non vvti) would this be closer? Sorry for dumb questions. Im just baffled. Dizzy was set to 10 btdc on the old g1 using a timing gun. Not touched this since installing the new ecu. Do I need to lock the g4 timing to 0 from 15 and then re adjust the dizzy to 10 btdc? Thanks Chris
  9. Hi all, Am Totally at my wits end... could some of you guys please have a look over my logfiles and tell me what im missing... The situation... Was running an old LINK G1 with zero issues. Car started any weather first crank and ran ok. Bought a LINK G4 Atom 2 wire in at a great price. Followed all the instructions to wire it up. However now it will NOT START. Have done an injector and ign test. All good. Have checked fuel pressure/flow. All good. Visually checked plug 1 fire with a big yellow/white spark. All good. Have tried more/less crank enrichment. No change. Played with IAC during cranking. No change. The guys i bought it off had a quick look at the cranking log and said the batt voltage looked low. Found the offending earth. Now is 12.6v. Tried to drop the trigger threshold for trigger one (is seeing it, but comes up error at 0.18v as the lowest threshold is 0.2v) PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE lol someone tell me what im missing. Spent 4 days solid in the cold head scratching and now i give up. Logfiles are from yesterday. Will try and post the ones from this morning too with the ground fixed. Thanks alot. Chris 3sgterevstartingissue (1).zip 3sgterevstartingissue.zip log 2 no start g4+ st205 (1).csv log 4 no start.llglog 3 no start.llgToyota Celica ST205 G4+ Xtreme Plugin#1lf.pclrtrigger log (1).llg
  10. Hi all, Having a new problem today.... Engines Running on 3 cyclinders..... Inj/cyclinder one is getting no fuel at all. Injector plugs deads (tested with a bulb) so thinking a break in the loom somewhere. The looms ancient. so just for the time being i want to run a wire straight from the pin on the ecu straight to the injector. Question.... Does the other injector wire just ground straight to the body/earth?? OR (manual says the injector " provides a ground" Properly confused at something remarkably simple again so i wanna be double sure) does it go to 12v ignition??? Its a LINK G1 on a MR2 turbo 3sgte engine. Need a Homer Simpson esque diagram please that even i cant stuff up. Many thanks helping me with all theses issues. Chris
  11. Tried to get drive A/B to turn on/off again today. Even when say drive A is "off - on" its still coming on at tickover??? Switch off the ecu and the rpm setpoints just default back also still. New problem today.... Running on 3 cyclinders..... Inj/cyclinder one is getting no fuel. Injector plugs deads (tested with a bulb) so thinking a break in the loom somewhere. The looms ancient. Gonna run a wire straight from the pin on the ecuto the injector. Does the other injector wire just ground straight to earth?? Many thanks helping me with all theses issues. Chris
  12. Btw on the launch control menu, how do the "Launch rise RPM's" and the "Launch RPM" both work? Daft question. Better ask before i test it. Thanks again Chris
  13. Hi Adam, yes the ecu seems to store all other changes but reverts back to default settings on drive A/B/Water spray. Thanks again. Chris
  14. Hi Adam/Simon, Am still having some probs trying to set up my outputs and boost controller. Am using DRIVE B to switch on my chargecooler pump. No matter what i save the starting RPM it keeps reverting back to 5000? Same with the water spray. Am using this for my meth injection pump, it reverts back to 50% at 70FF no matter what i save it as. Last prob im having is setting up the MAC 3 port controller. Have attached one wire from the mac solanoid to the W gate pin on the back of the ecu... and the other solanoid wire to the bodywork common grounding point. Should this other wire go to a 12v ignition instead of grounding it? Im using an external WG btw. Im ok with mechanical stuff but have really bin in over my depth trying to figure out setting up the ecu lately. Any help you guys could give me again would be GREATLY appreciated. Gonna test AUX 2 output today for the launch control, to see if that works. Many thanks Chris
  15. Hi Adam, THANKYOU ; ) That explains it VERY well. LINK/your teams customer support, even for older outdated (still v v good now) ecus is second to none. After ALL the help you guys have given me im never gonna buy anything else apart from LINK when i upgrade because the support is just FANTASTIC. You guys are the Bee's Knees. Gonna go have some fun now i understand fully whats goin on. Thanks again Chris
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