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  1. Could it be because the AFR sensor is so far away in the mid section of the exhaust? So it a delay factor and not a actual lean spike
  2. I have taken the solenoids out gave them a good clean ans swapped them around and success. Back where they are in sync. Thanks for pointing that out remski2 Still seeing the random lean spike. I don't understand it
  3. Yes, indeed thank you pointing that out it looks like the solenoid is lazy. I will swap them around and see if bank 2 will repeat the problem Thanks,
  4. Hey Adam, Hope all is well. I finally got to go do some testing. I changed added some Accel Enrichment above 4,000RPM am I perhaps not giving it enough? Attached log file. https://www.dropbox.com/s/s8x6r4v3upesly2/test 7.6.2020.llg?dl=0 Injectors are 1,700 ID's 04 MY05 STi with standard drive by cable throttle body I should also mention that my AFR sensor is in the middle part of the exhaust past the dumpipe section where it meets the middle section Thank you for any feedback
  5. Thanks for the Input again Adamw... I forgot to ask if the lean spike in the log could possibly be coursed by CLL rate down settings impacting this? Thanks again for your feedback I really appreciate it. Cheers,
  6. Hi all, I have noticed these leans spots after I had my car tuned by a local tuner shop. As soon as I go increase % on the throttle the AFR's will go into a lean spot for 200ms or so https://www.dropbox.com/s/9dpqh3fwetd9y7f/cruise.llg?dl=0 (Log File) What is coursing these conditions - Is it the tip in enrichment? Is it something I should be concerned about ? Thank you in advance for your help
  7. Thank you for the response Adamw I have changed the settings from these to the lower number at lower idle and it has significantly improved
  8. I am having issues as soon as close loop kicks in on cold start from around 80c ECT my AFR's go erratic and hunt. Idle RPM are stable and so is idle ignition and it seems to be doing it while driving also. I tried turning close loop off and once i do this my issues with erratic AFR's go away Any idea why this may be? Thanks WRX cold start .llg
  9. Yes we have cut open the oil filter and all looked normal few microscopical elements as to be expected after its full run in... Oil pressure has not changed since started... Seems like they are a ted on the looser side... Mains were from .0011 - .0014 Rods - .0021 - .0022
  10. Hi guys, Bit of history on this motor... Cosworth full long-block with a 2.6L stroke crank. ACL bearings 99.75mm Cosworth Pistons Cosworth Rods Mains pinned Closed Decked Full original Cosworth heads casts and all the Cosworth running head gear. Cosworth oil pump - I am under the impression it is a 12 mm pump in a 10 mm body with 2 shims... Made 350kw on 21- PSI on E85 on a aggressive ignition timing and I had this motor pulled apart a few months later as i started to notice shimmer in the oil... Pulled it apart just in time!!! Bearings were on their way out!!! Old Motor 3rd gear pull on ACL bearings Cold starts i was seeing very close to 100 PSI oil pressure At idle I was seeing low 50 PSI oil pressure at warm idle... WOT pull 80 - 85 PSI oil pressure https://www.dropbox.com/s/2vr7djxl16lo4mr/3 gear final tune1.llg?dl=0 Now that i have a fresh engine and the only difference between the above and now is we used Kings Bearings instead of the ACL ones. Car is making a healthy 375-kw with 25-PSI with less ignition timing... However I have noticed the oil pressure is some what 10 PSI lower then the old motor was producing ... At idle and in the higher RPM range... Now this is on the same oil on both engines.... HPR 10w-50 Full synthetic Cold starts I am seeing very close to 95 PSI oil pressure Idle oil pressure between 38 PSI - 45 PSI once warm WOT pull 73-75 PSI WOT pulls 2nd to 3rd https://www.dropbox.com/s/ciba3ixc2p3dzni/cruise 1.2.llg?dl=0 Oil Pressure sensor is in the same location as always and running a stock oil cooler so no change. Is this something to be concern about?
  11. Hi CJ, Thanks for the reply, it is much appreciated mate! The problem is I spent a little chunk out of my wallet to pay for these services to be provided and a service that I double checked that could be provided beforehand especially after the last experience I had. The guy is thinking of reimbursing me something... I am so fed up that, if he does not come to the party, I will publicly name and shame his business, and name and shame the first business that did a substandard job because people are getting jammed hard here! It's not about the money to me but purely how poor their workmanship is and wasting my time on two separate occasions. And if I can save somebody in the future from what I went through I will! The car was there for 3 weeks!!! I told him to keep the car as long as he needed so it is tuned properly with no issues and I would not need to return because it was a rushed job. I do not feel comfortable taking the car back as I question his ability to tune correctly. I am really losing touch/interest in the car ( only bought it less then a year ago), purely for enjoyment. I am yet to get any enjoyment from it. I don't feel comfortable driving it due to the tune. The first tuner cost me over 10 grand for his poor tuning skills. Since then I have heard of two other engines blowing up due to too much timing. Mind you, these are both 'Link' authorised distributors. If I had not a slight idea, I would be driving my car and most likely blow it up again. Hence why they like to password protect their files. I asked him to leave the file unlocked and him agreeing to this, made me feel comfortable as he knew I would be looking at the file... These so called tuners should be ashamed of their workmanship... I have some degree of understanding but it is a bit different for me to put it to practice so to speak. Maybe I need to start learning more and doing things myself and knowing it will be done correctly... The fact that really gets my blood boiling is, I asked them multiple times during different phone conversation prior to me bringing the car for the tune... He guaranteed he could do the work, no problem... I even asked him to do everything from scratch, well he has not done that... It was a copy paste kinda job! Thank you all for your time to have a look at the logs and confirm what i was fearing.... I will keep you guys in the loop of what happens next...
  12. Thank you Adam. LIFE SAVER Supposedly the tuner worked on the avcs things i pay for these days
  13. Just noticed in these logs that my right side position AVCS cam sensor is giving false numbers why would this be? 2.6L Full Cosworth longblock Dual AVCS Intake only https://www.dropbox.com/s/9dpqh3fwetd9y7f/cruise.llg?dl=0 cruise file https://www.dropbox.com/s/h9mitdcjhkxxrjp/2-3rd gear pull .llg?dl=0 little 2-3 gear pull and cruise log Tuner2Original.pclr
  14. Thanks for the reply CJ... The lambda numbers are out. The cruise log is mainly on the freeway 100 km/h zones.... If I am doing about 95 km/h the AFR's are pretty spot on in 6th gear... As soon as i got to 100 km/h the AFR's will drop to mid to low 13's AFR now this is at no point going into boost as the freeway is flat and not hilly so not under big loads. Another example doing 60 km/h in 5th or 6th gear same sort of problem running on the richer side. These load cells have not been tuned. There is more, these are just examples. Hard to tell at the logs as there is no gearing inputs. Can potentially view with setting up vehicle speed parameter and see my average speeds. (I need to set up gear detection also) Every time I am at idle CLL is pulling out 10% plus fuel. ( My idle does not drop from 1,500 RPM to 1,000 RPM once i get to a stop for a while) I can feel it in 1st and 2nd gear wants to keep pushing the car instead of feeling like it wants to stall) Base fuel pressure is @ 3.5 bar. Should be 3 Bar as per ID injector data with the 1,700X ( I have two fuel pumps and a surge tank) Plenty of fuel flow? Differential fuel pressure limit not set right. Cold start rpm and AFR fluctuates. During Cold start idle control valve % hits max limit. These are all things that should have been looked at Look at the ignition table nothing has really been changed from the original file of the other tuner.... it's just really disappointing that it never is done right
  15. Hey Guys, I have had the engine rebuilt as the previous Tune most likely coursed wear and tear on the engine bearings and we got it just in time so to speak... Now I had the car re-tuned by another reputable dealer here in Melbourne where the car was for 3 weeks... Now the logs to me indicate the car is no where near perfect or where it should be... I have attached a cold start log as you will see it runs so rich at first start and is way out.... Cruising at closed loop lambda is way off also. When doing 80kph in 5th or 6th gear my AFR's go into the 12's - low 13's at basically no throttle input even at cruise control turned on on a flat road. (No boost ) Knock control is not set up correctly and is taking out 3 degrees of timing at 10% lockout at 1,300 RPM- , 5,000RPM ( I asked for this to be turned on everywhere... It sounds like a patch job) The fuel pressure is not set up correctly running more pressure then it needs. I specially asked for the tuner to leave the file opened and not password protected as normally he password protects them and I can see why! I am lost for words!!! Can you please let me know what else I am missing.... I am not driving the car anymore as I can't afford to do another engine build https://www.dropbox.com/s/5idqm25vuxp3bpg/cold start.llg?dl=0 cold start https://www.dropbox.com/s/9dpqh3fwetd9y7f/cruise.llg?dl=0 cruise file https://www.dropbox.com/s/h9mitdcjhkxxrjp/2-3rd gear pull .llg?dl=0 little 2-3 gear pull and cruise log Thank you, Simon Tuner 2 Original .pclr
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