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  1. Yeah I don't, I never intended on tuning the car myself, I just asked the questions above to learn The main goal of this post was to get the car started and idling well enough to take to a tuner... Thanks for all the help!
  2. Hello, Basemap values adjusted according to new components. Vacuum leak tested (no leaks) locked timing to 20 deg and test(success) adjust fuel pressure to 45 psi (vacuum line removed) Vacuum leak test (no leaks). The car idles fine but taking it around the block, it ran like shite (goes super rich). I’ve had enough and had it towed to a shop to get the clutch changed and car street tuned. Th plans changed and I drove the car back home on the “base tune” the tuner did. I checked the differences between the map I gave him and what’s stored on the ecu now and I notice the only difference is Map Limit KPa increased from 140 to 255, and he increased the fuel table 1 values. The map x rpm table was not even changed. I guess the VE table. The car actually drives smooth in the lower rpm ranges (only took it up to 3 k rpm) just to get home. Mind you the tuner did not touch any mechanical configurations. This leads me to believe there are no boost leaks and what cost poor driving issue (when I took the car around the block before going to the shop) was the fact that fuel table had to be adjusted. I need to learn how to do this. Should we be working on fuel table or the VE table to tune the car? Adamw you were reluctant to teach but I’m ready now. I also want to touch upon configuring the wastegate(s) accordingly and the bov. As in when they open based on map and other variables. Please see map attached and cross reference from the previous map above. You will see as I have mentioned, all the tuner did to make it driveable was that he increased fuel table averages.. when I kept doubting my mechanical configuration. Thank test_this_1.pclr
  3. I suppose not. I tried again this morning and it seems to lock at 20 even when revved. I was thinking of doing it again but this way. Unlocked idling -> Set cas to 20, Lock idle @ 20 -> Check difference if theres any, if so, set to 20 Done Or is the timing unlocked irrelevant as what matter is when locked at 20, timing light shows 20? Thanks
  4. Also, I set my timing to 20 BTDC, 50 milliseconds, adjusted CAS to 5th notch as per timing light, 0 5 10 15 20 BTDC, and when I rev the engine slightly, it goes past 30 degrees, I don't know if it's a guaranteed timing DRIFT or I'm "looking at the timing right incorrectly"
  5. Okay, it idles great at 7ms. I've calibrated the timing, and now I'm only waiting for my FPR fittings to come in. I've triple checked any vaccum leaks and pressurized the system via turbo inlet @ 30 psi and no hissing occurs anywhere. When I blip the throttle at around 2k rpm, it FEELS as though there is a tiny vacuum leak/misfire.. I don't recall the engine doing this at the stock setup. Is this due to the fact that the fuel table has yet to be modified to reach target AFR at ALL RPM range? Thanks
  6. Alright, so the car is idling decently on that bare bones base-map that we have setup. I switched to 6ms PW What enhancements can I make to the base-map to improve idle? Another thing I noticed was after letting the car warm up, I gave the car a slight rev and the AFR got really rich it started to stall - then picked it self up. I gave it a slightly harder rev and it stalled. What is the reason for that? I did pickup a timing light and an HT lead, can you please teach me how to set base timing on the Link? I know RB26 base timing is 20 degrees, I can achieve that mechanically using the light, when it comes to the PCLink, how is that set? Please help me get this thing properly sorted before going to the tuner. I want to be able to drive it around the block (no boosting ofcourse) Cheers
  7. Hi Adamw, I've applied those basic values to corresponding variables as per your suggestion. I did notice that on average, the dwell time is higher on the R8 coil table as compared to I assume oem r32 gtr coil dwell time. Can the system self-learn dwell time values or do I just try to find the best values overtime? From what I've read to never go over 4.5ms and that other rb26 have had luck with around 2.0-2.2ms, though for which voltage and what RPM? I dont know. Also regarding the timing light, I found this tester which I assume can act as an HT-lead given that they are designed to display spark.. https://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Lisle+20610+Inline+Spark+Tester&qid=1556075689&s=gateway&sr=8-1 So the timing light connector would just clip onto any part of that tester cable? I connected my ecu to the laptop via auto connect and it prompted that I enter some sort of activation code. One, where do I find this code and two, how can I find the prompt to enter code once obtained. The fuel pump primed which, I'll take as a good sign? and disconnected after that. Please find my .pclr attached to correct or suggest any new setting or future setting. 89 BNR32 v1.pclr Also please comment on my dead time curve. Thanks again for all your help! Really appreciate it from Canada Regards
  8. Hi Adamw, thanks for the prompt reply! Alright so below are the only variables I changed as per your advice. Am I ready to crank the engine? Master Pulse - INJ dead times - data wasn't provided for voltages 6-9. Notice #10 is higher than 9, do you have a recommended value for 9..presumably between 1.950 and 1.689? INJ short pulse width adder - when I would enter a value for say '0.375', -0.100 auto adjusts to -0.1008, is this expected? Anvolt 6 - variable values same as your example. Cal4 - variable values same as your example. R8 coil dwell time - R32 basemap skips 3500 rpm range, and also 16V row..should be alright? Lastly, fault codes and unused analog i/o. What shall I do with AN4,5, and 9? I won't be using them so do I just turn them off? For the status' regarding fault codes, do I just ignore them or is there a fix? (I'm just creating the base map on my laptop, not connected to ECU right now.) Timing light - do you think this will suffice? I've never used one before and I see tools as an investment. The knowledge and know how will stay forever once I've done it once! https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000EVYH72/?coliid=I2LDDOVKCRI4ZR&colid=2KC23NVIKNI6V&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Also this, will I experience this? On top of all the variables for this first start, I hope I don't have to go through this one. As always, I appreciate your time and help! Regards,
  9. Hi all, I’m on the home stretch of my single turbo conversion. I hope this post will serve as a second source of information and troubleshooting guide for myself and possibly others. I’m sure there are things I can learn from you guys who have done this before. Base Map: Now when I load the R32 GTR basemap and have yet to change anything (updated firmware, calibrated MAP and TPS). Where should I start in terms of correcting necessary settings on PCLink. Any help is greatly appreciated. I’m a complete beginner on this ECU, or any ECU in fact. But the goal is to get the car started and idling well. From what I’ve read on the forum, set injector master pulse(4ms?)(if lean increase PW, if rich lower PW) set injector dead times as per the fuel pressure. In this case 30 advised by NZEFI. How about dwell time? I will be using R8 coils (see part below) What about timing? Given my mechanical timing components are installed properly, how is timing set on the ecu? Will I need a timing light as soon as it’s running? Lastly, will I have to do this? It says: “In your trigger settings, Set engine type to RB26, set widest slot to 24deg, then set test ECCS sync to off (this must be done last). Do a store, then crank it again and tell us if it now shows RPM. All the other stuff is irrelevant for now. The GTR doesnt have an oil pressure sensor connected to the ECU, the sensor is connected to the gauge in the dash only. Your air temp sensor is connected to AN Temp 2, so turn AN Temp 3 off and put the below setings in AN Temp 2. The AN Volt 6 error is because the oxygen sensor wont output voltage until it is warmed up. We can change the fault setting so that doesnt report an error later.” Anyways, there’s a bit more things to button up but I want to have a solid idea when I’m ready to turn the engine over. Should I subscribe for the gold membership at HPAcademy or I can get by first start/idle with the Link forum? Parts: ECU – GTRLINK - #NGTR+ Using map sensor source from old PCV valve using a 4mm to ¼” BSP fitting. http://dealers.linkecu.com/NGTRPlus Manifold – DocRace Single scroll modified w/ an extra vband flange for a second wastegate https://docrace.com/collections/nissan/products/rbx-single-scroll-topmount Turbo – 6266 Gen 1 PTE ball bearing w/ an upgraded Gen 2 compressor wheel. “P/S” compressor housing 4” inlet, 2.5” outlet with the anti-surge design. 3AN oil feed (No restrictor as recommended size is 4 an, and I believe there is an orifice within the centering mechanism; but regardless Precision advises against an oil feed restrictor), 10 AN drain utilizing the old drain line. https://www.realstreetperformance.com/precision-turbo-gen-2-6266-sp-cover.html Wastegate – 46mm Precision EWG w/ 17 psi springs, 46mm Tial EWG w/ 17psi springs https://shop.precisionturbo.net/pw46-46mm-wastegate | BOV – Tial Q 50mm BOV w/ 11 psi springs http://www.tialsport.com/index.php/tial-products/bovs/46-tialbvq Downpipe – Custom 3” downpipe IC piping – Custom 3” IC piping with charge pipe from 2.5” turbo outlet -> 3” Wideband – AEM 30-4110. 0-5v value? High? Low? Lambda? (Include values and data). Will be wired to pin 29 aka front oxygen sensor). https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/wideband-uego-air-fuel-controllers/digital-wideband-uego-afr-gauge/digital-wideband-uego-afr-gauge Injectors – NZEFI 1000cc/min direct fit R32-R34 GTR Bosch ev14 injectors + injector ballast delete. Flow rate? Dead times? Pulse width? (include data) http://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/ Fuel – Walbro 450 lph, new fuel pump strainer, new fuel filter https://www.briantooleyracing.com/walbro-450lph-high-performance-in-tank-e85-fuel-f90000274.html Ignition coils – R8 ignition coils (06E905115E). (Dwell time?) (Does anyone have dwell time data for R8 coils?) How is this even set? https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Audi-06E905115E-Ignition-Coil/dp/B00NUB40RK Spark Plugs – NGK 4644 BKR7E V-Power Plug (figure out appropriate gap) https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9349 FPR – TurboSmart 1200. 6an to 8mm lines. (Adjust to 43.5 psi base pressure) http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/Fuel-Pressure-Regulators/FPR1200-2017-Black.html MAC 3 Port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Valve DC12V 5.4W 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA - Boost solenoid – MAC 3 port solenoid. 1(Normally Closed), 2(Common), 3(Normally Open). Setup: Top port(s) of WG are vented to atmosphere, Bottom port of WG are tee’d into one line that goes to PORT 2 of solenoid, Port 3 of Solenoid comes from turbo vac source, port 1 is vented to atmosphere. (polarity is not sensitive, wired into factory 2 pin connector) Timing – the timing belt was recently changed before I purchased the car. The slack is just right and seems to follow the instruction manual. I lined up the notches on the intake and exhaust cam and the balancer against the backplate covers and TDC seems to line up with all the marks (belt marks included) - Do I need to set timing in the ECU config? Or is syncing the timing once the car is able to idle? Clutch – Nismo super coppermix twin plate (push style) to hold for 670 ps. https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-super-coppermix-twin-plate-clutch-kit-bnr32-r32-r33.html Exhaust – no name catback with a test pipe (cat delete) and resonator delete. IC – stock intercooler, paint stripped, and oil residue inside core cleaned by sloshing gasoline inside. Battery – Relocated in the boot via 1 AWG wire, 200Amp circuit breaker 4-5" from positive terminal. Catchcan – rb26 valve cover push on fittings, 10 AN lines to a dual baffle vented catch can. To be changed/upgraded: IAT fast response sensor, Aluminum radiator Cheers
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