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  1. Since the G4X is released now, I'd say some firmware engineers might have some spare time to do some G4+ fixes. Hoping so as this is one feature I'd loved fixed too.
  2. Turn off fuel in the ecu for spark test Take the coil out put a spark plug in it (earthing it) and try to start, see if there is spark. If not, since you say you have replaced the coil, check wiring. If you do have spark then check injectors, make sure you can hear each one ticking. Check the plugs and wiring to the ecu. Start your troubleshooting with the basics then work up.
  3. This PnP has a shitload of IO anyway. The Exhaust VVTI outputs can be reused too for things. It's a fantastic package for the value. You are able to run full sequential 6 cylinder without too much trouble. Was there a reason you wanted 7&8? I have one running my 2JZGTE VVTI. I've repinning my loom and reused, swapped around assignments. Things like reassigning the ACIS (variable intake) that is on AUX5 now controls the FAN, which was controlled on IGN6, which was freed up for future ignition upgrade. Also reassigned the ANVOLT1 which did goto OX1A now is connected to the Cruise Control stalk in my car so I have working cruise control. I've also redirected some pins from the ecu to a external connector for these including those 3x IGN outputs. So can drive things line 4-5-6 IGN, 3x Digital Inputs for Flex etc. I've also got a Expansion connector that has another 2 digital inputs as well as 2x Analog volt for pressure sensors and a AUX for boost control. I'm also using a Link CAN Wideband so it doesn't use any IO.
  4. You might be best to ask the AEM CD5/7 facebook groups. Quite a few knowledgeable people on there. This forum is for Link G4+ Support, I don't think your Link ECU is the issue here. What expander you using btw? E888? AEM lists the E888 as fully supported and tested and include a file on their website..
  5. Know this might be a popular one, but a wheel speed to CAN interface would be a huge welcome. A lot of the Link products can't take a raw ABS wheel speed sensor input without a divider and a lot of customers would love to have all 4 wheels input without using 4x DI's. Couple of products already out there from KMS and ECUmaster but they seems to be extra ordinary expensive for a 4xDI to CAN converter. https://kms.vankronenburg.nl/kms-producten/accessories/kms-speed-sensor-can-converter-4-channel https://ecumasterusa.com/products/wheel-speed-to-can-module?variant=13733653839933 The ECUmaster one even requires more hardware just to program it..
  6. Set a AN for the rotary switch. 5V from ECU. Set the AN as a GP Input, give it a clear label. Set Calibration to a unused Cal. The Calibration table should have a input units as volts, can set table increments to 1, most rotary switches you can lockout the other unused steps on the switch itself. Create a table with the steps eg 1..2..3 and the voltage for each in the table. You can workout what each step if using Ohms law or put on a multimeter. Once you have a Cal table and a AN mapped tot he switch, you can then create a boost table or Wastegate DC% 1 - Active table with RPM on the X-axis and the AN input on the Y-Axis. Then map it out with higher duty with the higher rotary position.
  7. Thanks Adam, will have a play.
  8. Hi Adam, Sorry for Zombie posting this but had a question regarding the CAN structure and CAN IDs. My friend makes a Gauge that was made for the Haltech originally. Uses a CAN ID+N similar to the Race Tech above. My question was, is there a way to address different CAN ID eg +1 +2 etc without needing to use a separate channel for each to specify the new CAN ID? At the moment we are using 3 channels with separate CAN IDs and a user stream on each, then they have a single frame on each stream with the parameters. We tried it with multiple frames on the one stream but the frames seemed to mix. So had to do above. We managed to get this working with minor changes to his code but would be nice to get all the streams onto one channel, without needing to completely rewrite the audrino code. Here is the gauge working with the multiple channels for a example. Regards Nick
  9. Enable PC logging on your laptop and save it. Attach to this forum. There are a few 2JZ maps around in these forums you can download and compare. But can be a number of things, if it's almost starting then I'd be looking at your cranking cold start map. Also are you piggy back off the stock ECU? Is the stock ecu still controlling the throttle?
  10. Heads up, will need at least a log. That way can see the difference between the Throttle Position (TP) and Accelerator Pedal Position. (AP). Also the map is handy too to see the settings.
  11. Depending on the number of teeth the ABS hub wheel has, it might be too high for most ECUs, only Thunder would have a high enough HZ rating to count that quick. There are converters that will change the frequency from say 1200Hz to under 600Hz that would then be usable in most ECUs. This has been covered a few times in other threads. Mostly using ABS sensors for traction control etc. Now, looking at the 2004 WRX/STI wiring diagram, it relies on the gearbox speed sensor for at least the stock cluster. So if you don't have one, the speedo won't work as well. I looked to see if the ABS computer has a SPD output (like some Toyota units) but you are out of luck there. My best advise, chase up a sped sensor and install it into your new gearbox.
  12. Thanks blokes! Managed a little bit of both and seems to have settled it down. Still a small about of wavey (2 corrections) at the transition but quickly aligns and follows the target. Will fine tune the PID tomorrow to get it even better but will do for now. Cheers Nick
  13. Hi Guys, Hopefully can get some guidenence here in regards to the VVTI config for my Link G4+. I currently getting what looks like pulsed Inlet cam control, but sometimes it seems steady. Attached screenshot of what I'm seeing. I'm currently using a TALT+ Altezza PnP on a 2JZGTE VVTI from a Aristo in a IS300. Loom has been repinned to suit Altezza plugin and IO reassigned etc. Just wanted to get an idea on the config for the VVTI control on the 2JZ. I've set it up with the defaults as far as PCLink is concerned in VVT setup, selected Toyota 2JZ as Cam control (tried 1JZ too). PID is default (have not been game enough to try this yet). VVT solenoid is on AUX1, 300HZ (tried 100HZ too), CAM type is Inlet /LH. Trigger 2 VVT is reluctor, offset to 175 ATDC. Confirmed offset with Cam Angle test. Scott's Map 07052019 - Flex Tune - Nick edit 03082019 - cold start better - new VVTI map WIP.pclr Log 2019-08-5 1;36;11 pm.llg
  14. Thanks on question one Adam. Question two, while I was aware that Toyota use BEAN, the Link itself uses CAN and relies on a CAN to BEAN convertor (coded by Zac as part of his Uni degree) which is special to this ECU. If there is no way to find out what address to put into the Link then that is fine I might hack the dash itself and run a wire out so the ECU can use a output to light it. Cheers Nick
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