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  1. You turn the knife where it hurts The problem with my build is that ridiculously I do not know exactly what turbo I am running All I know is that it is a T3/T4 hybrid with 60mm inducer and 50mm outlet size. I received it from someone I trusted (back then) when I started the build and he said it should be good for aroud 300hp. From then a lot of money flew into the build and I put together a pretty decent setup, however the capability of one of the main blocks (the turbocharger) is still not know to me. Update on my work: I installed the new MAC boost controller and started tweaking it on the street. At 90% PWM it looks like I can build around 0.8bar at 6000RPM which is decent for my goals. I get a HUGE immediate overboost when accelerating around 3500-4000RPM even with 70% Wastegate DC. So I guess the turbo is quite small and flows well up to 4000 but then it looses its momentum. So on the next tweaking session the plan is to try 100% wastegate DC in the high RPM zone and activate the closed loop boost control in order to keep the overoboost tendency in the low RPM's. Especially if I step off/on the throttle I get immediate boost cut (set at 1 bar).
  2. About 0.5 bar... Anyway, after I replace the boost controller I might reach the conclusion that after all this is all this turbo can make. I seem to be able to make more boost in low rpm's and low gears, but it looks like the turbo cannot sustain the pressure in high gears and high rpm's.
  3. You are right, only the high side drive is limited to 0.5Amps. I got confused. In the end I ordered an AEM 30-2400 boost solenoid which looks similar to a MAC 3 port.For those there was a ridiculous amount of fake/cloned ones. Thank you!
  4. Hello, Since my boost solenoid seems to be acting up (80% leads to wastegate pressure and 85 % to overboost) I'm looking to buy a new one. Can you advice me for a simple, reliable, 1.5 bar max boost solenoid valve that is known to work well with the link ecu's without needing additional relay? If possible I would like a silent one because the old one was making so strong sewing machine sounds that it forced me to set 0 target on low engine speeds just so that I don't have to hear that noise. As far as I know the link ECU output port can handle 0.45 amps which is at the limit of most solenoids I find.Thank you!
  5. So I finished my diy electronic detonation listening device (just a preamplifier connected to the factory knock sensor and a software real time filter running on an android tablet) and I am heading for the dyno tomorrow. I really hope that on the dyno, adjusting timing in steady state and listening I will be able to tell when knock occurs. Because so far I am not quite sure. To me it sounds like the engine is already knocking with what I consider to be the safest settings making very little power for this engine. Please take a listen to my recordings: The first link is to a bigger sound file containing multiple pulls with no filter. Just what the knock sensor gets going through the preamp: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1i1l5j_ZUo3_CQZJrHFkkKv5ujRviF0FW The second link is to a shorter filtered pull: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VJV729P3c6bU82_WBDJSQ6KRad_4ZYDo Does this sound like knock? Could this be caused by the strong Vanos rattle which I am currently experiencing? Thank you very much! Best regards, Florin
  6. It looks like before going lean you are going much richer than your target (while letting off throttle and immediately when pressing again). If you have closed loop lambda this might lead to very big negative correction which will show up as lean in the following moments. Please excuse me if this advice is stupid, but I am still a Link ECU beginner, however I guess checking your CLL parameters on the log would not hurt. By the way, if you say you want to get rid of the fireball, shouldn't you be concerned with the rich area instead of the lean one? Regards, Florin
  7. dynoiasi

    Boost Control

    Regarding your last answer Adam, maybe you could add the feature of switching map tables (or other inputs) from the user interface to the wish list? For those who have installed a tablet with PCLink inside the car it would make more sense to be able to "simulate" switch actions from the software, rather than wiring and installing mechanical switches to do the same thing. I guess a generic approach where all digital inputs might be assigned to a "software user interface panel" would be worth considering. Just a suggestion to improve an otherwise very good system / software. Best regards, Florin
  8. Many thanks for your opinion Adam. I did not know about the bumps in the road causing false positives and I was wondering why in my log there are very rare but big noise spikes while engine has basically no load. Maybe this might be it, since we certainly have a lot of bumps in this part of the world... One more thing: for me the best way to discern whether some noise is real knock or not, would be to see that after the knock control timing intervention the knock went away on the next stroke or at least it reduced the amplitude. Can you see this on a log? As much as I found you can only see the knock ignition trim tables per cylinder but they are "static" in nature. There is no real time parameter that shows the ignition trim due to knocking but only other ignition trims. Is this true? Best regards, Florin Tufescu
  9. Thanks Adam, with your blessing I created a new topic and uploaded the log file. I had to compress it however since the maximum upload file size is 9 Mbytes. Best regards, Florin
  10. Hello everybody, Since I have not finished yet my DIY "detonation listening device" I made a few runs using only the engine knock sensors and very conservative tuning, trying to spot knock signal waves on the logs. To my surprise I found a few spots that look a little suspicious which I would love to hear your opinion about. It's hard to believe that this might be real knock considering the crazy rich AFR and the low timing but still I would bring these to your attention. My engine is a M50TUB25 with about 9.5:1 compression and a smallish turbo. Problem 1: There's a small spike on cyl2 knock level. It settles back and then rises again along with the boost pressure. Might this be knock, or knock should be an even bigger spike compared to the previous average noise? Problem 2: The cylinder 2 noise seems to raise pretty suddenly but the cylinder 6 even more so. I think that cylinder 6 might be caused however by the RPM cut which happens at the exact same time but I am not quite sure which happened first. I also attached the base map and the log file. The first problem is in the SOL section, the second one in the rpm cut section, timestamps should match the attached screenshots. Thank you very much for you help! Have a nice day, Florin dinmasinapolizuiasi.pclr Log 2019-03-31 6;32;48 pm.zip
  11. Hello, I would like to post here my base map and log in order to get some opinions on the logged knock sensor signal. However I have 1 hour log file (about 20Mbytes) and I don't want to make people that want to help me download so much... So is there a way to trim a part of a log? I know how to create sections, I see that you can export just one section, however if I use export it will output a .csv file format. I guess this is not as good for viewing as the native .llg format. Can I output just part of a log in .llg format?Thanks! Best regards, Florin
  12. I was not aware that the S50 has variable valve timing, thanks!
  13. That is really good news,plug and play is always nice What got me confused was the fact that the "Cam control mode" in the VVT settings also has the possibility to choose "BMW single vanos", like there is still the possibility to control it via the VVT. Maybe it was just experimental?
  14. Thanks Adam for your input. I'll have to look around the engine to find whether there is a reasonably easy way to mount a third sensor. Alternatively, do you think that temporarily connecting just one of the sensors to the Link ECU and using the other for my amplifier would be a reasonable approach? I am not trying to squeeze the last drop of power, so I would suppose that the detonation would occur roughly at the same time on all the cylinders. Would the Link ECU get a smaller overall noise if using just one of the sensors (by half maybe) which I could adjust later, or would that throw an error and completely disable the knock sensing? Thanks! Best regards, Florin
  15. Hello everybody, I have a Link E36 plugin ECU running on a turbo M50TUB25 BMW E36 (single Vanos). Even though I read what some might consider a lot through the help files and through these forums, I am still uncertain whether vanos control works out of the box with this E36 plugin ECU or I need to do some wiring modifications. I see in the E36 base map that comes with the Link software that AUX 3 is configured as CAM-Switch, I see in the logs that it is commanded as expected (ON between 2500 and 4500) and to be honest I think I feel something in the car dynamics at those exact thresholds. These lead me to believe that everything is setup and working. On the other hand I see that VVT is turned off in the configuration file... does VVT refer only to more complicated proportional control of the cam position? Also, I remember seeing somewhere in the help file that you need to modify something to the vanos wiring, like adding/removing some diodes... However I can only find again that information for the double Vanos engines.... To sum things up, I would really appreciate if someone could clarify: is wiring modification needed for the M50TUB25 single Vanos engine to work with the E36 plugin Link ECU or is everything ready to go? Thank you very much! Best regards, Florin
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