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  1. dynoiasi

    PC logging workflow

    Ok, so I was doing it wrong because if I clicked "save log" after step 4, I was probably saving just the last section (3-4) which was active at the moment. Might be a useful addition to have a save all button with automatic naming based on system time. Thanks!
  2. I'm using closed loop, so I will use the Idle target trim. Mario, I think you cannot use just the AC step value in closed loop, because the closed loop will decrease the duty cycle back to get to the target RPM value, regardless of the step up.
  3. dynoiasi

    Gear detection lost

    Thanks, I'll give it another try without normalizing the gear ratio.
  4. Hello, As far as I understand from the help documents, there are 2 strategies that ensure a consistent idle when the A/C compressor kicks in: 1. The fuel trim 2. The Idle up adjustment of the idle base positon table. Is there a way to also increase the idle target RPM when the A/C compressor kicks in? I am thinking of using the "Idle target RPM trim table" and setting the Y axis to "AC request". Would this work? Is this the usual configuration or should this not be necessary? I think what I am trying to achieve is mostly done by the small displacement engines, whereas the bigger displacement engines keep the same RPM but increase load, like methods 1 and 2 which you advice in your help file. Thank you for any advice. Best regards, Florin Tufescu
  5. dynoiasi

    PC logging workflow

    Hello, Short question: If I click on record log(1), then stop log(2), and then record log(3) and stop log(4) again, will I get a log that contains both pieces 1-2 and 3-4, or will I only get piece 3-4 unless I save before clicking record again? I used to live with the impression that I will get the whole log (1-4) eventually split in 2 sections, but now I am not so sure anymore. The workflow I am trying to achieve is this: drive the car, hit an interesting spot, park it on the side of the road and inspect the log. I do not necessarily want to stop logging while I inspect the current log, but I have to stop it because otherwise the logging view keeps redrawing and makes reviewing impossible. What's the correct way to do this workflow? Thanks! Best regards, Florin
  6. dynoiasi

    Gear detection lost

    Hello, I wonder if there is a known issue regarding this or I am just doing something plain stupid. I searched the forums and even though someone seemed to have a similar problem some time ago, there was no conclusion to that thread. So I learned the gears following the manual procedure and everything worked fine for that run. In runtime values I could see the "Gear" parameter changing as it should while I changed through the gears. Everything worked well for that trip and I made sure to save and store the changes. I even have a log that I attach here which contains the correctly detected gears shown in the log: https://www.dropbox.com/s/45l3s5wo1tvurwi/Log 2019-06-2 2%3B56%3B23 pm.llg?dl=0 I turned the engine off and went on my way, came back to the car and downloaded the file which I modified a little. I did not even think of checking if the gear was still shown correctly in the runtime values because I was pretty sure I saved and stored. I only noticed this at the end of the ride: no gear shown in the runtime values and no gear saved in the log (just 0 and 1): https://www.dropbox.com/s/g1q50lel35tptv6/Log 2019-06-2 8%3B06%3B34 pm.llg?dl=0 Surprised to see this I checked inside the map file and the gear ratio table still contained plausible and logical values which were for sure not entered by me directly, but must have been entered when doing the calibration procedure. Here's the map for you to check out: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1rh3kqzct25j3tx/depemasina1iun.pclr?dl=0 I know the most plausible reason to this story is that I must have done something wrong. However since this is the second time this has happened to me, I dare ask: is there a known problem/caveat regarding this gear calibration and gear showing in the log? According to the logs, my firmware is Thank you! Best regards, Florin
  7. This is a 2.5l M50 Bmw engine with thinker head gasket. Still struggling with boost control. It seems that with the values which are required to get decent boost response on higher gears, I overboost badly in 1st and second gear. Is this not strange? Isn't it the norm to have bigger boost in the high gears because the engine has more time to build load? Next thing I'll try is gear dependent wg trim to reduce 1st and 2nd duty cycle around 10%, however doesn't that look strange? Usually you reduce wg DC because of traction problems in low gears, but not because of overboost.
  8. You turn the knife where it hurts The problem with my build is that ridiculously I do not know exactly what turbo I am running All I know is that it is a T3/T4 hybrid with 60mm inducer and 50mm outlet size. I received it from someone I trusted (back then) when I started the build and he said it should be good for aroud 300hp. From then a lot of money flew into the build and I put together a pretty decent setup, however the capability of one of the main blocks (the turbocharger) is still not know to me. Update on my work: I installed the new MAC boost controller and started tweaking it on the street. At 90% PWM it looks like I can build around 0.8bar at 6000RPM which is decent for my goals. I get a HUGE immediate overboost when accelerating around 3500-4000RPM even with 70% Wastegate DC. So I guess the turbo is quite small and flows well up to 4000 but then it looses its momentum. So on the next tweaking session the plan is to try 100% wastegate DC in the high RPM zone and activate the closed loop boost control in order to keep the overoboost tendency in the low RPM's. Especially if I step off/on the throttle I get immediate boost cut (set at 1 bar).
  9. About 0.5 bar... Anyway, after I replace the boost controller I might reach the conclusion that after all this is all this turbo can make. I seem to be able to make more boost in low rpm's and low gears, but it looks like the turbo cannot sustain the pressure in high gears and high rpm's.
  10. You are right, only the high side drive is limited to 0.5Amps. I got confused. In the end I ordered an AEM 30-2400 boost solenoid which looks similar to a MAC 3 port.For those there was a ridiculous amount of fake/cloned ones. Thank you!
  11. Hello, Since my boost solenoid seems to be acting up (80% leads to wastegate pressure and 85 % to overboost) I'm looking to buy a new one. Can you advice me for a simple, reliable, 1.5 bar max boost solenoid valve that is known to work well with the link ecu's without needing additional relay? If possible I would like a silent one because the old one was making so strong sewing machine sounds that it forced me to set 0 target on low engine speeds just so that I don't have to hear that noise. As far as I know the link ECU output port can handle 0.45 amps which is at the limit of most solenoids I find.Thank you!
  12. So I finished my diy electronic detonation listening device (just a preamplifier connected to the factory knock sensor and a software real time filter running on an android tablet) and I am heading for the dyno tomorrow. I really hope that on the dyno, adjusting timing in steady state and listening I will be able to tell when knock occurs. Because so far I am not quite sure. To me it sounds like the engine is already knocking with what I consider to be the safest settings making very little power for this engine. Please take a listen to my recordings: The first link is to a bigger sound file containing multiple pulls with no filter. Just what the knock sensor gets going through the preamp: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1i1l5j_ZUo3_CQZJrHFkkKv5ujRviF0FW The second link is to a shorter filtered pull: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VJV729P3c6bU82_WBDJSQ6KRad_4ZYDo Does this sound like knock? Could this be caused by the strong Vanos rattle which I am currently experiencing? Thank you very much! Best regards, Florin
  13. It looks like before going lean you are going much richer than your target (while letting off throttle and immediately when pressing again). If you have closed loop lambda this might lead to very big negative correction which will show up as lean in the following moments. Please excuse me if this advice is stupid, but I am still a Link ECU beginner, however I guess checking your CLL parameters on the log would not hurt. By the way, if you say you want to get rid of the fireball, shouldn't you be concerned with the rich area instead of the lean one? Regards, Florin
  14. dynoiasi

    Boost Control

    Regarding your last answer Adam, maybe you could add the feature of switching map tables (or other inputs) from the user interface to the wish list? For those who have installed a tablet with PCLink inside the car it would make more sense to be able to "simulate" switch actions from the software, rather than wiring and installing mechanical switches to do the same thing. I guess a generic approach where all digital inputs might be assigned to a "software user interface panel" would be worth considering. Just a suggestion to improve an otherwise very good system / software. Best regards, Florin
  15. Many thanks for your opinion Adam. I did not know about the bumps in the road causing false positives and I was wondering why in my log there are very rare but big noise spikes while engine has basically no load. Maybe this might be it, since we certainly have a lot of bumps in this part of the world... One more thing: for me the best way to discern whether some noise is real knock or not, would be to see that after the knock control timing intervention the knock went away on the next stroke or at least it reduced the amplitude. Can you see this on a log? As much as I found you can only see the knock ignition trim tables per cylinder but they are "static" in nature. There is no real time parameter that shows the ignition trim due to knocking but only other ignition trims. Is this true? Best regards, Florin Tufescu
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