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dynoiasi

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Everything posted by dynoiasi

  1. Confession time: the hose I thought was going to the wastegate was going to compressor and the other way around I switched them around and now target boost seems to come around 25 % wastegate and controllable. I'm sorry to have wasted your time and to have driven the car in overboost dozens of times while trying to understand what's going on.... unfortunately I was just too sure of how those hoses were connected and I thought of any other complicated explanation but this. So car pulls strong and it seems that soon the tuning will be done. Next priority is getting the cold start decent but I'll meet you in other topics about that Thank you for your help and good luck! Best regards, Florin
  2. It's some sort of filter...From what I saw most of the mac style valves come with such a filter for the atmosphere side. It looks like it's made of pressed copper wires or something. I just blew through it and it gives noticeable restriction, you think that could be the problem? Aren't these filter supposed to be used in such applications?
  3. It's going to be hard to show a photo of the wastegate because it's a bottom mount turbo with internal wastegate and getting to the wastegate is a royal pain... However on short notice I can attach a photo of the solenoid install. It's a funny hack job which I did because I had no 90 degree pipe connector so I used a 'T' and blocked one output with a piece of wood So it's a classic MAC 3 port valve, port 1 goes to atmosphere (image right side), port 2 which should be the common port according to instructions and my own checks goes to the capsule of the wastegate actuator (left of the image) and port 3 is connected to compressor output (port 3 is going up so I have to use there a 90deg bend. Today I also double checked the electrical connections and everything seems sound there: 65% WG duty gives 7.6V and 70% duty gives 8.2V, I also measured other values so everything looks fine electrically and I can also hear change in the clicking sounds. I really have no idea what might be the problem unless the wastegate rod sticks somehow but in this case I guess the response would be not predictable... however the response is predictable but just too sudden. Thanks for the help!
  4. Ok, I will place here a log file and hopefully you guys have some idea what's happening because I really don't know what to try next. After replacing the boost controller with the MAC 3 port I am back to square 1 and I still can't control the boost. In short what I get is very low boost with 65% WG duty cycle and overboosting with 70%. I disabled closed loop boost control and all the runs are done in top gear on straight road. Otherwise the car runs fine and pulls strong when it is making the right boost. What should be the next step? Measuring the WG pressure with different duty cycles to ensure that it is working properly? Easing off on the internal wastegate spring to allow more control? The log file can be copied from the one drive link below and I also attached the map file. https://1drv.ms/u/s!Amk_BITNgVuBsSer8-quqXP9Pap8?e=Wmfeco There are 4 markers in the log: first two show runs at 0% WG duty cycle, third is 65% duty cycle making 33kPa and last marker shows 70% overboosting (actually I lifted off the right foot at 180 kPa because I already overboosted too many times in one day...) Any help is much appreciated, thank you very much! pentrumasina7sep.pclr
  5. dynoiasi

    PC logging workflow

    Ok, so I was doing it wrong because if I clicked "save log" after step 4, I was probably saving just the last section (3-4) which was active at the moment. Might be a useful addition to have a save all button with automatic naming based on system time. Thanks!
  6. I'm using closed loop, so I will use the Idle target trim. Mario, I think you cannot use just the AC step value in closed loop, because the closed loop will decrease the duty cycle back to get to the target RPM value, regardless of the step up.
  7. dynoiasi

    Gear detection lost

    Thanks, I'll give it another try without normalizing the gear ratio.
  8. Hello, As far as I understand from the help documents, there are 2 strategies that ensure a consistent idle when the A/C compressor kicks in: 1. The fuel trim 2. The Idle up adjustment of the idle base positon table. Is there a way to also increase the idle target RPM when the A/C compressor kicks in? I am thinking of using the "Idle target RPM trim table" and setting the Y axis to "AC request". Would this work? Is this the usual configuration or should this not be necessary? I think what I am trying to achieve is mostly done by the small displacement engines, whereas the bigger displacement engines keep the same RPM but increase load, like methods 1 and 2 which you advice in your help file. Thank you for any advice. Best regards, Florin Tufescu
  9. dynoiasi

    PC logging workflow

    Hello, Short question: If I click on record log(1), then stop log(2), and then record log(3) and stop log(4) again, will I get a log that contains both pieces 1-2 and 3-4, or will I only get piece 3-4 unless I save before clicking record again? I used to live with the impression that I will get the whole log (1-4) eventually split in 2 sections, but now I am not so sure anymore. The workflow I am trying to achieve is this: drive the car, hit an interesting spot, park it on the side of the road and inspect the log. I do not necessarily want to stop logging while I inspect the current log, but I have to stop it because otherwise the logging view keeps redrawing and makes reviewing impossible. What's the correct way to do this workflow? Thanks! Best regards, Florin
  10. dynoiasi

    Gear detection lost

    Hello, I wonder if there is a known issue regarding this or I am just doing something plain stupid. I searched the forums and even though someone seemed to have a similar problem some time ago, there was no conclusion to that thread. So I learned the gears following the manual procedure and everything worked fine for that run. In runtime values I could see the "Gear" parameter changing as it should while I changed through the gears. Everything worked well for that trip and I made sure to save and store the changes. I even have a log that I attach here which contains the correctly detected gears shown in the log: https://www.dropbox.com/s/45l3s5wo1tvurwi/Log 2019-06-2 2%3B56%3B23 pm.llg?dl=0 I turned the engine off and went on my way, came back to the car and downloaded the file which I modified a little. I did not even think of checking if the gear was still shown correctly in the runtime values because I was pretty sure I saved and stored. I only noticed this at the end of the ride: no gear shown in the runtime values and no gear saved in the log (just 0 and 1): https://www.dropbox.com/s/g1q50lel35tptv6/Log 2019-06-2 8%3B06%3B34 pm.llg?dl=0 Surprised to see this I checked inside the map file and the gear ratio table still contained plausible and logical values which were for sure not entered by me directly, but must have been entered when doing the calibration procedure. Here's the map for you to check out: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1rh3kqzct25j3tx/depemasina1iun.pclr?dl=0 I know the most plausible reason to this story is that I must have done something wrong. However since this is the second time this has happened to me, I dare ask: is there a known problem/caveat regarding this gear calibration and gear showing in the log? According to the logs, my firmware is 5.6.4.3240. Thank you! Best regards, Florin
  11. This is a 2.5l M50 Bmw engine with thinker head gasket. Still struggling with boost control. It seems that with the values which are required to get decent boost response on higher gears, I overboost badly in 1st and second gear. Is this not strange? Isn't it the norm to have bigger boost in the high gears because the engine has more time to build load? Next thing I'll try is gear dependent wg trim to reduce 1st and 2nd duty cycle around 10%, however doesn't that look strange? Usually you reduce wg DC because of traction problems in low gears, but not because of overboost.
  12. You turn the knife where it hurts The problem with my build is that ridiculously I do not know exactly what turbo I am running All I know is that it is a T3/T4 hybrid with 60mm inducer and 50mm outlet size. I received it from someone I trusted (back then) when I started the build and he said it should be good for aroud 300hp. From then a lot of money flew into the build and I put together a pretty decent setup, however the capability of one of the main blocks (the turbocharger) is still not know to me. Update on my work: I installed the new MAC boost controller and started tweaking it on the street. At 90% PWM it looks like I can build around 0.8bar at 6000RPM which is decent for my goals. I get a HUGE immediate overboost when accelerating around 3500-4000RPM even with 70% Wastegate DC. So I guess the turbo is quite small and flows well up to 4000 but then it looses its momentum. So on the next tweaking session the plan is to try 100% wastegate DC in the high RPM zone and activate the closed loop boost control in order to keep the overoboost tendency in the low RPM's. Especially if I step off/on the throttle I get immediate boost cut (set at 1 bar).
  13. About 0.5 bar... Anyway, after I replace the boost controller I might reach the conclusion that after all this is all this turbo can make. I seem to be able to make more boost in low rpm's and low gears, but it looks like the turbo cannot sustain the pressure in high gears and high rpm's.
  14. You are right, only the high side drive is limited to 0.5Amps. I got confused. In the end I ordered an AEM 30-2400 boost solenoid which looks similar to a MAC 3 port.For those there was a ridiculous amount of fake/cloned ones. Thank you!
  15. Hello, Since my boost solenoid seems to be acting up (80% leads to wastegate pressure and 85 % to overboost) I'm looking to buy a new one. Can you advice me for a simple, reliable, 1.5 bar max boost solenoid valve that is known to work well with the link ecu's without needing additional relay? If possible I would like a silent one because the old one was making so strong sewing machine sounds that it forced me to set 0 target on low engine speeds just so that I don't have to hear that noise. As far as I know the link ECU output port can handle 0.45 amps which is at the limit of most solenoids I find.Thank you!
  16. So I finished my diy electronic detonation listening device (just a preamplifier connected to the factory knock sensor and a software real time filter running on an android tablet) and I am heading for the dyno tomorrow. I really hope that on the dyno, adjusting timing in steady state and listening I will be able to tell when knock occurs. Because so far I am not quite sure. To me it sounds like the engine is already knocking with what I consider to be the safest settings making very little power for this engine. Please take a listen to my recordings: The first link is to a bigger sound file containing multiple pulls with no filter. Just what the knock sensor gets going through the preamp: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1i1l5j_ZUo3_CQZJrHFkkKv5ujRviF0FW The second link is to a shorter filtered pull: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VJV729P3c6bU82_WBDJSQ6KRad_4ZYDo Does this sound like knock? Could this be caused by the strong Vanos rattle which I am currently experiencing? Thank you very much! Best regards, Florin
  17. It looks like before going lean you are going much richer than your target (while letting off throttle and immediately when pressing again). If you have closed loop lambda this might lead to very big negative correction which will show up as lean in the following moments. Please excuse me if this advice is stupid, but I am still a Link ECU beginner, however I guess checking your CLL parameters on the log would not hurt. By the way, if you say you want to get rid of the fireball, shouldn't you be concerned with the rich area instead of the lean one? Regards, Florin
  18. dynoiasi

    Boost Control

    Regarding your last answer Adam, maybe you could add the feature of switching map tables (or other inputs) from the user interface to the wish list? For those who have installed a tablet with PCLink inside the car it would make more sense to be able to "simulate" switch actions from the software, rather than wiring and installing mechanical switches to do the same thing. I guess a generic approach where all digital inputs might be assigned to a "software user interface panel" would be worth considering. Just a suggestion to improve an otherwise very good system / software. Best regards, Florin
  19. Many thanks for your opinion Adam. I did not know about the bumps in the road causing false positives and I was wondering why in my log there are very rare but big noise spikes while engine has basically no load. Maybe this might be it, since we certainly have a lot of bumps in this part of the world... One more thing: for me the best way to discern whether some noise is real knock or not, would be to see that after the knock control timing intervention the knock went away on the next stroke or at least it reduced the amplitude. Can you see this on a log? As much as I found you can only see the knock ignition trim tables per cylinder but they are "static" in nature. There is no real time parameter that shows the ignition trim due to knocking but only other ignition trims. Is this true? Best regards, Florin Tufescu
  20. Thanks Adam, with your blessing I created a new topic and uploaded the log file. I had to compress it however since the maximum upload file size is 9 Mbytes. Best regards, Florin
  21. Hello everybody, Since I have not finished yet my DIY "detonation listening device" I made a few runs using only the engine knock sensors and very conservative tuning, trying to spot knock signal waves on the logs. To my surprise I found a few spots that look a little suspicious which I would love to hear your opinion about. It's hard to believe that this might be real knock considering the crazy rich AFR and the low timing but still I would bring these to your attention. My engine is a M50TUB25 with about 9.5:1 compression and a smallish turbo. Problem 1: There's a small spike on cyl2 knock level. It settles back and then rises again along with the boost pressure. Might this be knock, or knock should be an even bigger spike compared to the previous average noise? Problem 2: The cylinder 2 noise seems to raise pretty suddenly but the cylinder 6 even more so. I think that cylinder 6 might be caused however by the RPM cut which happens at the exact same time but I am not quite sure which happened first. I also attached the base map and the log file. The first problem is in the SOL section, the second one in the rpm cut section, timestamps should match the attached screenshots. Thank you very much for you help! Have a nice day, Florin dinmasinapolizuiasi.pclr Log 2019-03-31 6;32;48 pm.zip
  22. Hello, I would like to post here my base map and log in order to get some opinions on the logged knock sensor signal. However I have 1 hour log file (about 20Mbytes) and I don't want to make people that want to help me download so much... So is there a way to trim a part of a log? I know how to create sections, I see that you can export just one section, however if I use export it will output a .csv file format. I guess this is not as good for viewing as the native .llg format. Can I output just part of a log in .llg format?Thanks! Best regards, Florin
  23. I was not aware that the S50 has variable valve timing, thanks!
  24. That is really good news,plug and play is always nice What got me confused was the fact that the "Cam control mode" in the VVT settings also has the possibility to choose "BMW single vanos", like there is still the possibility to control it via the VVT. Maybe it was just experimental?
  25. Thanks Adam for your input. I'll have to look around the engine to find whether there is a reasonably easy way to mount a third sensor. Alternatively, do you think that temporarily connecting just one of the sensors to the Link ECU and using the other for my amplifier would be a reasonable approach? I am not trying to squeeze the last drop of power, so I would suppose that the detonation would occur roughly at the same time on all the cylinders. Would the Link ECU get a smaller overall noise if using just one of the sensors (by half maybe) which I could adjust later, or would that throw an error and completely disable the knock sensing? Thanks! Best regards, Florin
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