AnWaRi996

I retried the glove thing with a slight variation and noticed that even with the car off (which should be zero signal), small amounts of air are exiting the IAC valve, which explains the fact that nothing is seen when the blade and IAC hole are covered together, but if the IAC is watched only, small amounts of air are leaking out. I don't really understand how this ties in with it all when the car is running though, as the valve should be open shouldn't it?

Yeah I noticed that. I taped a glove onto the end of the TB and forced air into a vac line but when i stopped the air didn't go anywhere, it acted like a perfectly sealed system. Is there a chance the idle valve is still functioning electronically but mechanically is actually in a different place than what the ECU sees it in?

Attached is a log of me covering the TB with a piece of cardboard at various intervals. At no point did the car die though. Feels like it definitely should've with most of (if not all of) the throttle body covered...? Thanks for your help so far! (edit: the cardboard was being sucked really hard despite the fact you said the idle valve was already closed?) no die.llg

Idling around 1500rpm now, still blowing a grey-ish smoke which I'm assuming is from burnt oil due to the rebuild - something about rings and seals settling in... What can we make of this? 1500rpm.llg

Testing it found a vac leak which when plugged up dropped the idle to around 2000 (with the idle valve connected), although target is set to 1500ish I think, smoking up a fair bit too. No more vac leaks anywhere. Can't help but feel like a valve issue at this point, as the ECU isn't really seeing anything and it's just overshooting targets, blowing smoke, and no vacuum leaks. That said, It's a fresh rebuild so I don't think a leak-down or a compression test will show anything so it might just be heads off and have a look? I don't know where else air could be coming in from.

The stop is already all the way out it looks like, so I guess we're potentially looking for another vac leak? Initially i thought my PCV could be stuck open but I'm running speed density so it would be giving me air into the intake before the sensor anyway? Really at a loss.

Attached the tune and another log without the IACV plugged in. It is the later 3 wire solenoid type. Unplugged, the idle dropped the a steady 2000ish and there was less of a fuel smell/smoke. I've also checked for resistance across all pins and there's no register of anything between any of them although I'm told there should be some sort of resistance between pins. Sounds like the valve is dead? WRX tune.pclr more logs.llg

It's a 2003 EJ207 tuned for on a WRXlink 5+. The idle valve has been replaced during a rebuild but not with a factory one, and since the rebuild it's been acting funny, so I haven't actually narrowed it down to that. I've checked near everything for leaks around the engine and can't find anything at all. The blade seems to be perfectly fine upon checking it. Is it just a matter of unplugging the IACV and seeing what happens differently? I'm of the belief these IACVs from this engine aren't adjustable anyway (correct me if I'm wrong) so it would entirely be faulty from the go? Is there an easier way to test the valve through Link software? Sorry about the barrage of questions, really at my wits end with this and just want to drive it at this point.

Hey guys, just trying to diagnose this extremely quick idle ramp up from start, basically shoots straight to 3k RPM instantly and hovers around there. Injectors, spark, and air are all good, which led me to believe it was an o2 sensor issue. When checking the log (which I've attached), everything seemed normal barring the mixture map, which is throwing errors saying that it's expecting .95v and is getting 0.00v from 200 odd samples. Does this indicate an issue with the sensor or even the sensor wiring? It's just a stock narrowband but I'm fairly certain it's meant to fluctuate? I also don't understand how to read the fuel table but when i click on one of the red mixture map squares, it highlights the 2500-3000RPM area, which is exactly where my idle is going to and is what's giving me this feeling. Attached are images of what I'm referring to alongside the log. Thanks in advance. potential issue.llg

Yep, injectors are clicking, all in order. It is a V8 engine and it was previously running on a trusted tune. If nothing is obviously wrong then I'm assuming it's a timing issue that will need to be traced back through possible wiring issues, maybe spark wiring is a bit muddled? Fuel is definitely happening, so is air, and it's a brand new timing belt perfectly lined up.

Hey guys, running a wrxlink 5+ and although my car was previously running (albeit horribly), after repairing the loom it wont start. not really sure of the cause so wondering if something is visible. Attached is the log and triggerscope. Thanks Log 2021-05-27 4;10;42 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2021-05-27 4;15;00 pm.llg

That's what I was leaning towards, are we able to take an educated guess on whether its the intake or exhaust side of the engine due to the symptoms? or just an air leak anywhere post IAT and pre O2? I have a feeling it's bent valves but a compression test later in the week will determine that.

The car has already been tuned and was running great beforehand

Yeah I'm just running the stock O2 right now. Later down the track I will, but surely it should show something irregular at the moment.

Hey all, I'm having trouble diagnosing a horrendous running car. As soon as it starts up idle ramps up to 1600 and it blows obscene amounts of black smoke. The plugs are sooty and it's misfiring but I'm not sure what I'm meant to be looking for in the logs (which are attached) I've noticed the O2 sensor on AN Volt 4 doesn't ever show a reading other than 0.0v although my understanding is that it should cycle between 0.0 and 0.7, which would mean that the car is only seeing a lean mixture. Could this then be a result of a faulty o2? Otherwise i'm not really sure how to interpret the log to diagnose the current issue. Really just unsure of what the ecu is seeing that is causing it to act this way and any insight would be amazing! 602985825_richrunandmisfire.llg

WRXLink (5-6) G4+, 2004 EJ207 engine and trigger. Just confirmed the sensors are in fact switched around AND the car does still run (with a high idle, misfire) so I'm not actually sure what to make of this? Are there any theories on how this is possible?

Hey all, just chasing a bit of clarification on launch control. My car doesn't have a factory clutch switch, so is my only way of setting up a launch control through adding a clutch switch to a DI channel or is there some other funky way that I haven't thought of? Also, will a car with the cam/crank angle sensors swapped around actually run? I have a super strong (99% sure) feeling mine are ass backwards which is leading to a misfire, high idle, and longer time to crank, but I'm not entirely sure why this would cause the high idle. In my head the car runs because it's 2:1 cam/crank ratio so everything should line up half the time it's expecting, and I guess this trickles down into the above symptoms while still horribly allowing the car to run? Thanks

I've checked the ECU pins and it switches 12v without the ECU plugged in. From looking at the Possum manual, it appears that the wire actually branches out into various places. It is meant to be connected to the fuel pump relay (there's continuity there), that fuse (FB-11) (which is in the cabin, but there's already continuity and I'm assuming the wire has a path through the dash), and to the 12v of the wasted spark ignition system, on the engine bay side of the wiring. This leads me to believe that the wire should just be the 12v to the coil from factory. As far as touching other wires, it appears to be touching the purge control solenoid ignition output (B135-7) on its way through the cabin to the ECU at some point, however the purge system is not in use and I believe that's just an unused output at this point and shouldn't affect this. I think in a stupidly foolish moment I bridged my ignition 12v to a different power source (when converting to coil on plug) and completely forgot that this leftover wire was dedicated to ignition power. Could explain my pissy purple spark too. Does this sound feasible or am I rambling on making only a tiny amount of sense? It just seems like everything is exactly how it should be but my coils were using the wrong power source? Attached is the wiring I'm following and how I'd imagine it's actually meant to flow.

Extremely useful, thank you. So this means there's likely an issue in the wiring for B136-32 somewhere where it's getting 12v when it definitely shouldn't? And as for the place for the B136-25, given the wiring runs into the engine bay I should be looking for an ignition switched power source in the bay? My understanding is that I should route it directly into the ignition switch to prevent any issues, but there must be a reason it goes to the bay from factory and a solution there would make my life that much easier.

Hey all, Running a wrxlink6+ and am trying to find the real place for the B136-25 wire. The stock routing is directly into the engine bay and I'm trying to find its home from there. The wire corresponds to DI4 which is the ignition switch however the car still starts without it connected to anything? Not sure what the purpose of the wire is at this point. When putting a voltmeter on it with the ignition on it reads 12v although it is a DI (I thought this meant it fed into the ECU, not out?!). It therefore keeps the car running with the key removed if bridged to other engine bay power supplies, and shorts out the ignition fuse when grounded. My questions in summary would have to be: 1. What does the ignition switch wire actually do if not lead to starting the car? 2. Where would it go as a result? 3. Is it meant to be a 12v output on a DI channel? TIA

Sorry this is really confusing me for some reason. The car is starting without it connected which would imply the main relay is powered wouldn't it? If i were to connect it to the ignition switch, what is it expecting to see? 12v from whichever wire is active during ignition? Thanks

Hey guys, chasing the source of a high idle on a wrx. The tune is trusted and previously was fine but I think my wiring is a bit ass about so I'm not really sure what to look for and I'm hoping there's indicators of the issue in the logs attached. It ramps up straight away to about 2000rpm and just stays there, running kinda roughly. TIA rich run and misfire.llg

Problem definitely sorted, it was a mehanical issue in the end, runs beautifully. As for my B136-25 wire, can this be wired to any 12 switched power? I have found one source in the bay but it keeps the car on even with the key pulled out :/ Is there a recommended source for this power supply in the bay? Thanks

My TPS is at around 20% and it's only because I had it held there, it is reading correct values. I'll attempt this ASAP, but it does have an 03 AVCS block in it that it was tuned for. Is it easier to load an 03 base map and change the software pinout to match the physical? Or do I still just load up a v5 MAP and change triggers? Following on from that, I know we can't see the triggers yet, but does it seem like there's a chance the crank position wiring is backwards at the sensor? Thanks for all your help so far, hope you had a happy new year!

B136-25 on the ECU was not wired in to anything (12v input?) and I have bridged it to a 12v ignition switched power source now. Still hasnt fixed the issue. Unfortunately when I connect to the ECU the triggerscope options disappear from the taskbar, I'm assuming due to the lock on the tune(?). As for the TPS, I had the throttle a bit open and it was reading that fine, but thank you. As for spark, the car was running perfectly fine before the tune so I don't see how timing could be off there. I have also checked the timing belt again to rule out a mechanical timing issue but it looks bang on. Realistically all I can see being off is compression (it is making compression sounds though and it's a fresh rebuild, but I will be double checking ASAP), or potentially the car being tuned with a different order for spark/injectors due to the frankenloom it initially had. When trying to start it again, it wants to turn over for a split second and the RPM rises to 800-900, but drops back again. It also chuffs a tiny bit from the intake here and there as though timing is 180 off or something? Is there anything else that presents itself in the log, or any other ideas as to the issue? If everything else gets ruled out it might have to go back to the tuner on the break-in tune date as a non-running car with hopes its an input/output issue, but I would much rather rule out any other issue first! Thanks for your time.