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oversteer

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  1. Sooo many different figures for those injectors !...wildly different figures, at this point I'm inclined to believe Five-O motorsport snippet info which is .640 @ 14v... Will have to look into this test function of which you speak. Be real nice if link would get one and characterise it with G4+ so it can be settled once and for all, Link tech support pllease !???
  2. Ok went back to racestudio and looked at configs, tried to import your one again and race studio got stuck in a loop with this message ; Racestudio is having a biscuit, looked up latest version and updated to 3.30.12, now it will import your config file, but all the display pages are messed up, seems i can go through and change them back to what i need. I can now see that there is a different ECU stream config, I'll see if it works once i have set up all the display pages again, what version of race studio are you using ? Yes Dailey 5 stage race dry sump, engine idles with ~6InHg / 20 Kpa vacuum, which depends who you ask is too much or too little, iirc Bill Dailey said up to 12InHg, but others i have asked said 3InHg is enough....Haven't touched Moroso Vac regulator out of the box, but it can be adjusted... Crankcase sensor is a GM3Bar, so it reads absolute with default config.....80Kpa absolute at idle which is actually 20 Kpa vacuum !?
  3. No doesn't work for IC Temp, and Crankcase pressure, just shows 0 for temp and 29.4 for crankpress, should be 30 and 0 at the time. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NwGuFPcbtIPSnDFMVbRRbMY0Hgye5Q2N The 2 "new CAN" files are your configs with the rest of my tune and display latest version, so please mod from there... The 2 other files are my current configs that work, temp displays correctly, but won't show negative numbers, is there a way to pass this temp reading to dash as actual temp(not the exhaust cam deg I'm using now) so it will display positive and negative numbers? And crankcase pressure has been fudged in Cal table 1 so the display shows InMg correctly on dash, as a plain conversion from Kpa to InMg by dash takes the absolute Kpa number(ie 80 Kpa)and shows that in InMg... when actually its 20Kpa of vacuum that needs to be converted ! Problem with the fudge is that i can't read positive crankcase pressure ! Is there a better way of doing this ? (has to be ! my fudge is ugly) Displaying +ve and -ve pressure in InMg would be best, or Kpa if that can't be done. Thanks
  4. Ok they are quiet different than what Adam listed above, I take it that 8v should be 1.52ms ? Where did you find those figures ? Always run higher fp with large injectors it can help produce a better atomisation at small openings and also for higher capacity, calcs say I need maybe 2600cc to for hp goal !
  5. Plug lead break-out thing to get timing light to work with COP is at dyno room, so I can't check that right now.... unless you know of some trick to get timing light to pick up on cop with out putting lead between coil and plug !? Car seems to run the same after moving cam sensor.... the link does use the crank 12 teeth for actual timing events does it not ? So it must still be using the same ref otherwise it would be 30 degree's out ?
  6. OK cut and re-welded cam sensor bracket, moved sensor ~5.5mm anti clockwise, result looks pretty good on scope... good enough Adam ? Moved scope ; Original Scope ; Trigger scope log in google drive link folder above.
  7. OK thanks, it would be the cam grinder that didn't base time the cams very well.... seen it before with his cams, always trouble to set-up ! So 7 degree's on cam will get me dead in the middle of zone, so maybe if i modify the cam sensor mount I can move it 2-3 degree's and it should be enough !? Looking at trigger scope the best direction to go to get away from crank trigger is to fire the cam sync later ? So roll it around clockwise from current position around 4mm from a quick scribble on a piece of paper, something that can be done in car !
  8. That's not easy to do to this motor, only way i can think of right now is to hope there is enough adjustment on cam wheel degree slots and maybe move the cam belt over a tooth......any way to tell how many degree's i need to move cam sync ? Pretty much impossible to degree cams with engine in car.... its drop engine trans and cross member to get it out, hmmm. further.. This engine actually has 2 tone rings on crank pulley, one is 12 tooth and the other is 1 2 3, an called "sync" in FSM, does the cam sync have to come from the cam wheel ie half crank speed ? any way to use a single tooth on crank 2nd tone ring to sync ? Would have to be a better signal with not cam/belt issues..
  9. Not with a Thunder, it can to Hi and Low.
  10. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NwGuFPcbtIPSnDFMVbRRbMY0Hgye5Q2N Should trigger scope, tune file and a log file with some data...
  11. Latest tune file to set-up can stream....would be better to use that previously posted one ... EG33E851.0.pclr
  12. Any comments of the trigger scope ? Can better trigger levels be worked out from log ?
  13. trigger scope without any changes since last log(although i did a little touch up to ethrottle and ing to make it run better while i was driving!) After that i changed the dead time and it made world of difference....idles better than it ever as ! ... trying to upload 74K log file, says only allowed 20Kb....I assume its adding up previously uploaded files, so deleted one above, still says 20Kb ! Will convert trigger scope log file to picture ... trigger scope after changing deadtimes with a nice idle, had to add a lot more fuel back in, 4ms setting and 10+ to fuel table.
  14. OK will do trigg scope when i can. Just looked at log, you can see the error counter only increases at idle, at any sort of load and rpm no errors get counted....
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