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oversteer

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  1. Just revisiting the EMP Pump CAN control after talking with another guy that got it working with a M130, his pump was an older version that ran at 250K. I have tried my EMP pump, which was originally on the BUS set to 1M at 500K and 250K, the bus seems happy at 500K as errors go away, but I still can't control pump speed. I have taken a log, and tune file links are below. During log I changed frequency in table 50-100-10-50. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z-VUOcvChfkWcCV0IKM8YIZ5wCyrFxrH https://drive.google.com/open?id=12YIyi8SXC8Bi7BOla4NOl28aCWnvFO_N Adam do you have any suggestions on what to try next. Cheers
  2. Set the E-Throttle target to ~7% at 0% AP around 500-1000rpm, is one way to do what you want.
  3. Going to dyno this afternoon so I was checking things over, I noticed that 2nd fuel pump was not turning on when IDC went over 15% like its configured, as in example from Adam above. Can be seen in log and tune & tune file here ; https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NwGuFPcbtIPSnDFMVbRRbMY0Hgye5Q2N Near end of log the IDC is ~25%, but 2nd fuel pump Aux14 does not turn on..its set to Aux13 = 0n and IDC > 15%... Playing around with this it seems the IDC% condition works, but the Aux Value1 = ON for the higher numbered aux's doesn't do anything, if i set it to 3 or 7 it works, but 12 on-wards and nothing ! What am I doing wrong ? For now I have dropped the Aux Value condition and just use IDC%>, which works.
  4. Ok thanks Adam, dash config attached. EG3331.0.zconfig
  5. I put the crankcase pressure sensor calibration back to 3 bar, then did as you suggested and used a math channel to -baro, which now gives correct -ve and +ve vac numbers in Kpa, but adding another math channel to convert Kpa to InHg seemed to screw that up and convert that to absolute where atmo is 30 InHg lol, guess that's technically correct, I'll live with +ve and -ve Kpa numbers. Everything is working pretty well, had to add math channel for lambda's as they needed multiplying by 10 to display correctly. Only other thing is Rev gear is displaying as "15" !, used to just show a " -" in reverse...anyway of making that show an R ?
  6. Right now in logs it seems to maintain vacuum everywhere, but its only on 50Kpa boost 400hp, I certainly do want to be able to see if and what positive pressure happens under high power, How would I go about getting dash readout to show -ve and positive numbers when crankcase gets pressurised ?
  7. Quote from Bill Dailey in an email ; http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/engine-vac-VacRegulator.html vacuum regulator 08-0455 add to valve cover and set vacuum about 12" hg Its a perterson Vacuum Regulator installed in right valve cover....12" hg is a lot of vacuum, turbo builder who drag races turbo V8 said 2-3" hg....
  8. Its a pity they are such an expensive injector !, if they were <$100 I'd buy one just to send to you... Thanks for the offer, will have to wait till someone I know grenades a motor etc to get a free one to send your way.
  9. Thanks Adam, dash works and displays data as far as I can tell right now correct with out driving it(Car has no seats, fabricating race seat mounts). Had to update MXS firmware as well since I went with the latest RaceStudio version, there are so worth while improvements in dash functionality which is great.
  10. Where are you located ?
  11. Sooo many different figures for those injectors !...wildly different figures, at this point I'm inclined to believe Five-O motorsport snippet info which is .640 @ 14v... Will have to look into this test function of which you speak. Be real nice if link would get one and characterise it with G4+ so it can be settled once and for all, Link tech support pllease !???
  12. Ok went back to racestudio and looked at configs, tried to import your one again and race studio got stuck in a loop with this message ; Racestudio is having a biscuit, looked up latest version and updated to 3.30.12, now it will import your config file, but all the display pages are messed up, seems i can go through and change them back to what i need. I can now see that there is a different ECU stream config, I'll see if it works once i have set up all the display pages again, what version of race studio are you using ? Yes Dailey 5 stage race dry sump, engine idles with ~6InHg / 20 Kpa vacuum, which depends who you ask is too much or too little, iirc Bill Dailey said up to 12InHg, but others i have asked said 3InHg is enough....Haven't touched Moroso Vac regulator out of the box, but it can be adjusted... Crankcase sensor is a GM3Bar, so it reads absolute with default config.....80Kpa absolute at idle which is actually 20 Kpa vacuum !?
  13. No doesn't work for IC Temp, and Crankcase pressure, just shows 0 for temp and 29.4 for crankpress, should be 30 and 0 at the time. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NwGuFPcbtIPSnDFMVbRRbMY0Hgye5Q2N The 2 "new CAN" files are your configs with the rest of my tune and display latest version, so please mod from there... The 2 other files are my current configs that work, temp displays correctly, but won't show negative numbers, is there a way to pass this temp reading to dash as actual temp(not the exhaust cam deg I'm using now) so it will display positive and negative numbers? And crankcase pressure has been fudged in Cal table 1 so the display shows InMg correctly on dash, as a plain conversion from Kpa to InMg by dash takes the absolute Kpa number(ie 80 Kpa)and shows that in InMg... when actually its 20Kpa of vacuum that needs to be converted ! Problem with the fudge is that i can't read positive crankcase pressure ! Is there a better way of doing this ? (has to be ! my fudge is ugly) Displaying +ve and -ve pressure in InMg would be best, or Kpa if that can't be done. Thanks
  14. Ok they are quiet different than what Adam listed above, I take it that 8v should be 1.52ms ? Where did you find those figures ? Always run higher fp with large injectors it can help produce a better atomisation at small openings and also for higher capacity, calcs say I need maybe 2600cc to for hp goal !
  15. Plug lead break-out thing to get timing light to work with COP is at dyno room, so I can't check that right now.... unless you know of some trick to get timing light to pick up on cop with out putting lead between coil and plug !? Car seems to run the same after moving cam sensor.... the link does use the crank 12 teeth for actual timing events does it not ? So it must still be using the same ref otherwise it would be 30 degree's out ?
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