Aqmar

To make it easy to get started on the forum each user gets a small storage allowance to allow them to attach log files, tune files and pictures to their post.  When you have used up that allowance and try to attach a file you will get an error message stating your file is too large to upload.  The way forward is to upload the file to an online drive service and use a share link to the file.  Google Drive and Onedrive are probably the most common free options in western countries so I have done a quick guide on those two here.  
There are many other options such as Dropbox, iCloud, WeTransfer, etc that usually follow a similar process.
How to share a file using Google Drive and Onedrive.mp4

It is nothing to do with fuel or cold start enrichment.  You have a 100% ignition cut because you have enabled a MAP limit which is set lower than atmospheric pressure.  

 

Ok the TP sub voltage starts reading much lower than it should in the areas where it fails.  It could be a loose connection or failing TP sensor, but since you have =3 logs here showing it failing at idle position I think that points more towards the sensor - they usually wear out around the idle area first.  

Just to update here. Manage to get the speed input working. The problem was somehow the sensor sits a little to far from the wheel that causes low reading. Adjusted the distance of that sensor and we got a good reading
now everything up and running. @Vaughanyes same goes. only detect speed more than 20-25kph
 
Thanks @Adamw and everyone for your respond

Try these files.  I have changed the CAN transmit in the ecu as I didnt like how some outputs were 4 bits wide, some 8 etc.  So I made all parameters 8bit wide.
In the PMU I set up two new functions "Fan low speed" and Fan med speed, these have logic so that you dont end up with an ambiguous result when for example ecu is commanding all 3 fan outputs (or speeds) at the same time.   
I then use the choose equation to specify different DC depending which channel was true.  I dont see any way to test if the logic works how I think it should so please give it a try.  If not use the variables inspector to see where it is going wrong.  
If this doesnt work we can just use a math block in the ecu to generate the duty cycle and send that to the PMU instead.  
 
MR2 New CAN and FAN.pmu 2GRMR2 New CAN.pclx

one pin to switched power, one to an Aux, doesn't matter which way around the pins are, I used Aux1-4 but any of Aux1-10 and any spare inj or ign pins will suit from memory.
I ran Bank 1 Inlet (rear bank) to Trigger 2 and used DI1-3 for the other 3 banks, DI4 can be also be used but you do need to connect Trig2 to one of the cams.
I can't remember which way round I wired it but one of the crank pins to Trig 1 and the other to signal ground, it is quite easy to tell from a triggerscope whether or not you have these two the right way around, they do have to be a particular way.
I just used the Link Looms so Shielded Trig 1&2 but not the other cam sensors.
 
I've attached a copy of my basemap from a while ago, my engine has Cams and slightly bumped compression and there are a few other things setup in there like the ECU controlling the temperature gauge and speedo. That being said it should be fine for figuring out the basics and getting the engine started.
2GR 309whp.pclx
Have just realised that this is in the G4+ forum, your setup will be slightly different again if you are using a G4+ but the gist of it is the same

Hi Adam,
Just to close this off i spent a lot of time trying everything to catch the stall - as i said the gain and anti stall did zip from max to min values.
It really needed a dashpot style fall to idle - which when ethrottle is setup the hold table is removed. 
I managed to create a vitual dashpot using a virtual auxillary triggering a timer and that timer controlling a slowed return to idle using the 3D idle table.
Works very well and might be something others could use if they have a similar problem.
My engine has a very light flywheel and two charger bypasses and 550cc under runner injectors, big cam, remote ethrottle body, head flowed to hell and back etc etc etc all on a 1565cc engine so the combination is probably hard to tune but this made it very well behaved.
Have attached the tune in case anyone else has a similar problem.
Thanks again Adam and please pass on thanks to the engineers, support etc as the g4+ really is excellent.
BR
Renault R8 with v-dashpot.pclr

I have a sw20 mr2 electronic power steering pump powered via a 100a crydom SSR, steering rack pressure sensor, and a string linear potentiometer on the column for steering position.
Im trying to greatly over complicate things and would like to configure a closed loop steering set up with multiple tables for on the fly switching via 2 DIs on a rocker switch.  
Have been through the software a few times and currently just the steering configured via a 3d table with driven speed(g4+ would have been non driven) on one axis and engine rpm on the other.
First hurdle that im finding is that the parameter "steering position" and "steering position ROC" are stated to only be able to come in via CAN in G4X.
These parameters are quite vital to the control strategy that im envisioning.  Im sure i could work around this with a GP ANV and a math channel but it just seems silly to have to do so.  
Any ideas on this overly complicated adventure would be super.
Brad

You will need one aux to control the pump, set it to GP output and set the switch logic to "cond 1 only" and give it a condition of MAP >180kpa.  You will need another aux for the solenoid, set it to GP PWM, constant frequency and set it to a suitable frequency.  Set the PWM table to control the valve how you like.
For the boost you can just turn on two boost tables and have table 2 active whenever the WMI valve aux is active.  If you want more safety such as a flow switch - so if the pump dies or you run out of water it reverts back to the low boost table, then you can use a virtual aux to add more conditions into switching the boost table.

Hey people, 
Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well.

I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode.

With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily.

Like so: 



Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. 

So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. 
I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear.
Then flicked the first switch, did it again.
Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. 

When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. 


However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values:


Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km:



Then from here, collated the results from each run.


So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too.

It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. 
It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising)

Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! 
I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat. 

HI Kenny, 
You will need to set the Trigger Mode to Multitooth/Missing.
Trig 1 will have a Tooth Count of 36 and a Missing Teeth of 2. The Multi-tooth Posn will be Crank.
Trig 2 will have the Sync Mode set to Cam Pulse 1x.

Hi Everyone,
My V3 Sti RA has both Manual and Auto switches. Manual used to run trigger a spray for about 3 seconds, timing relay is now gone due to a knob trying to steal the car...Auto never worked for me, even prior to the Link G4 Plugin being installed.
Anyways...thought I'd just re-wire the lot, and wire in the Link. Just wondering how others have done it? The more I think about it, the more ways I see it being possibly done.
I'd like to have the Manual function utilise a timer in the link i.e. Wire the manual SW (momentary ON) to a DI, then set a timer so it sprays for say 3s.
The Auto i'm thinking i'll link to IAT, so it sprays at say 70deg. I need the Auto SW (ON/OFF type)  to be in the picture so I can disable the Spray for when I'm just cruising round otherwise I'll always be filling the reservoir! Plus my 'level SW' appears to not work anymore either, so my safety net of that stopping the pump run dry is gone. (side question, are these easy to track down?)
The Link plug-in is tight for outputs as well, so I'm not sure I can do both functions through just one output or will I need two? I think I have one Aux Output (A/C clutch) and I could use one of the Aux - IGN outputs (don't need A/C fan). Got heaps of DI's free.
Thanks in advance!
Matt