Dan P

Is this true for a crank trigger with a missing tooth only? Or can I just run my 12 tooth without modifying it and it will operate like you mentioned above? Thanks.

I am not so worried it loses sync as I am it will give false cam position data..and put the ignition timing where it's not supposed to be. I think a great feature would be to disable it after startup.

I want to setup my 12 tooth crank trigger as a 12-1 for the purpose of ignoring the cam sensor after the engine starts. I just don't like the idea of relying on old cam sensors(my crank sensor/wheel is a new Kiggly unit). Seems like the pros are doing it this way on other systems, is it possible to ignore the the cam sensor? (Don't want batch fire)

Looking at the help file it seems that a missing tooth setup still requires this plus more (not within 30 degrees of next tooth after missing tooth) Are the instructions wrong? I need to decide if I should shave off a tooth off my 12 tooth wheel within the next week but if it's still requiring this sync business then I won't mess with it. Thanks.

I also need these instructions please. Although I'm getting values when I log knock parameters, it's always steady numbers that don't change with RPM. I always found this odd. After reading this I looked for my knock sensor input and it's not even setup so I'm clearly just logging a random voltage that exists on that dedicated non-connected knock pin input (whichever it may be?). I've been running it like this for 2 years thinking my engine doesn't knock ... and I have read all the provided instructions.

Is there a parameter I can monitor or setup (math channel?) to figure out the airflow into my engine without a MAF, just using a MAP, IAT and injector/fuel data? I've done a search through the help file without luck. If not possible right in the software is there a helpful parameter(other than IAT,MGP, inj pw) I can use for a manual calculation. I'm using traditional fuel startegy. Thanks!

If it wasn't for the icon line and info line which just take up space that could be used to make the tach bigger and display more parameters, it could almost work. What we drag racers want is a display with a LARGE central tach that makes the RPM obvious at a short glance and that's usually best done with a needle sweep as old school as that may sound it just works incredibly well. The current templates that utilize a needle type tach share the screen with another gauge which make it useless due to its small size.

Would we be able to get some drag oriented templates with the tach being as large as possible at the center and some readout boxes stacked nicely along both sides of it...I hate to say it but Haltech seems to have nailed it with their IC7. I find it extremely difficult to see my revs with the current templates at a quick glance while racing and just relying on the shift light isn't doing it for me. I realize it's made by AIM but I bought a LINK product with a LINK box and paid good money for it so I'd appreciate a response. I brought this issue up almost a year ago and was given no solution.

On a 12 tooth crank trigger that would advance/retard ignition by 30 degrees? But then I could compensate with the timing corrections like when setting it for the first time? I'm trying to understand this perfectly because I have adjustable cam gears, which I'll be tweaking occasionally, so I must adjust my cam angle sensor every time? OR would just checking with a timing light be sufficient, and if it didn't move from previous, then call it good?

Is this absolutely necessary as I don't see this phisically working out for trig2 to be exactly centered when I adjust the intake cam gear?

That's a little bit dissapointing on both statements. If your name is all over the box and product (LINK) then it should be 100% compatible with your ecosystem no? I could've bought a better dash from a different manufacturer but I didn't want to run into compatibility and lack of documentation to my G4+ yet here I am. I do appreciate all the help though. I am going to be honest, and others I have talked to agree, without the ability to customize the layouts this display will not be in my car for long. There either need to be many many more layouts provided to suit the different motorsports that exist or simply let the customer decide what they want to see through customization software. Thanks for all your help.

Also, is there a way to make custom templates? (even if it's a bit technical) I would really just like a screen with a large dial style tach so its easily visible at a glance.

Thank you for this, I think I got a hold of the situation! You cleared up most of my questions. I was really pulling my hair out when figuring out the units and scaling the G4+ sends over. I'm in Canada so I have it set for mostly Imperial units on my laptop, but that doesn't mean it was using Imperial for the stream, even though it says it does under the "test calculator" tab. My solution to see the raw numbers it was sending was to set up Racestudio as a Number value to be displayed not any specific parameter with a unit because it wouldn't display anything ( - - -) or it would place the decimal wrong. From there I did some math and figured that it was using C, kpa, kph, and for lambda it was a 4 digit number that had to be divided by 1000. Also, for some parameters the ECU uses offsets which I didn't catch onto at first which have to be accounted for on the Racestudio end. Before I read your reply I started using MS byte and all seems to be ok, is there a downside to this? Should I change to LS? Any idea why the CAN Devices tab doesn't find the dash? It's clearly connected and working. I think it would help to see the raw numbers it's sending over? Thanks for all your help sir!

Do you mind sharing your knock setup settings? (since you said it works well

I need some other than the default 40 parameters so I'm trying to build a CAN stream but I'm encountering many difficulties, mostly because I'm going on almost no documentation and not having much luck. If I could see how the provided CAN stream is structured in PClink(Link AIM MXS Strada Dash template) and RS3(CAN_BUS_BASE_LCC - I don't have the calibration the unit shipped with from link) I could do a good job of copying it and adding parameters but neither of those files show me the stream details so I can replicate it under the Streams tab in PCLink and the CAN Protocol builder in RS3. Custom Can Stream for AIM MXG Dash - G4+ - Link Engine Management I ran into this thread that had the exact issue I'm having and there was mention of a help file and maybe a video? Has there been any progress? I realize you can do the stream for me but I would like to learn so I don't have to come here every time I need a change made and there will probably be quite a few. I looked at the modified files in that thread, so I can see the PClink custom stream (still many questions) but on the RS3 end I can't see how its built. Anytime I try to import a CAN protocol from its install folders it doesn't want to open it, nor does the zconfig file show it. Most of my difficulty is on the RS3 end. Please help!!

I got it to work perfectly by feeding the reed switch a 12v+ instead of a ground like the factory. Turned off the pullup of course.

The vehicle speed reading is bouncing around, lets say I'm trying to cruise at 40 and it will spike around to 90, 60, 50,30 and sometimes a ridiculous number like 2000. It can have periods where its nice and steady but just a few seconds then its back to being crazy. At lower speeds it doesn't seem affected as much. I've tried replacing the gauge cluster because the VSS is built into it (cable driven speedo with reed switch output to ECU 4 pulses per revolution). I also tried bypassing the factory harness and ran my own signal wire from the reed switch to the ECU, and rewired its ground source to sensor ground at ECU. Pullup is on, no reading without it. Falling or Rising edge makes no difference. Wired to DI3, LF Wheel Speed, Calibration = 250. I highly doubt I need shielded wire as I never see this on a VSS...please help! VSS logging.llg

Yes! This is exactly the solution I was hoping for. I will definitely send it in for modifications once I have some planned downtime. Thanks.

It lists the possible inputs depending on model? How am I supposed to know this if it's not mentioned in the brochure, or on the VR4 features and specifications tab? I'm sorry but expecting the customer to read installation instructions before purchasing a product is unreasonable. Thats the whole point of the features and specs section of the product page. (which does talk about the analog inputs yet no mention it has changes from the brochure) I would've NEVER bought this product if I've known I'm left with 2 or 3 analog inputs and not have the outputs for 8 injectors and 4 coils (as advertised) Please correct your advertisements so this doesn't happen to anyone else (the specs tab STILL mentions a knock block requirement which is false)

I wish that was the case. I have IAT and ECT only on ANtemp. Seems like I'm out options then. I had plans of hooking up quite a few more things such as x4 EGT(which i have a controller for), turbo backpressure, turbo speed, coolant pressure, trans line pressure. The part that grinds my gears is that I upgraded from a AEM V1 for this exact reason, so I can have more inputs. During my research the link ECU brochure indicates 12 analog inputs/4 temp inputs. Even if you subtract the required factory analog inputs (MAF, TPS, O2) there should still be 9 ANvolt inputs left over (there are more than enough pins and software configs) but there are only 2! I had more than this on my AEM EMS plugin in 2005. (without expansion plugs, theres lots of pins) I'm not sure what the disconect is between the advertisement and the VR4 plugin actually is but maybe a link ECU rep would care to enlighten me?

My pressure sensors are 3 wire, signal, ground, 5v. I have no way to remove their resistor. Would what you suggested still work and how would I wire it? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. Is there a way to bring out more analog inputs from the board as there are many unused pins on the VR4 plugin, such as timing pin, baro, boost gauge, OBD1 pins etc etc. I'm not even sure I have the e-throttle inputs required for a pedal? Any suggestions?

Ran out of an volt inputs on my VR4 plugin, but not using the Temp input on expansion loom, and I read that these have a pullup resistor, so would it work for my pressure sensor 0-5v signal wire?