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Aseddon

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Posts posted by Aseddon

  1. Stock lambda is 3 wire. 

    12v power (I think its 12v and not 5. Should I check this or will it definitly be 12v?) and then 2 cables that come from the ecu, on the attached diagram they're numbers 19 (white, which appears to go into a black sheild ) and 111 (black with red stripe) I take it 19 is signal wire and 111 is sensor ground 

    Im going to use the white as a pressure sensor signal and just use the black as ground for oil temp, oil pressure and fuel pressure and the brown for can lambda power. for my 2 pressure sensors I will take my 5v from a splice on the TP connector. 

    Does the above sound all OK?

    Apologies for the schoolboy questions I just don't want anything to be wrong before it's all sleeved lol

    Cheers 

     

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  2. 22 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Pressure sensors are 3 wires - 5V, sensor ground and signal.  They donot need to be shielded.  You can often splice into the 5V and ground to the TP sensor or MAP sensor.

    Is the temp sensor just a signal wire by itself or signal and ground too? 

  3. 18 hours ago, Adamw said:

    since you arent using a dedicated relay.

    Is it reccommended to use a separate relay dedicated to the can lambda then? Do i just use the current lambda 12v as signal to the relay or should I use main ecu power as signal to the relay? 

  4. 11 hours ago, Adamw said:

    No, you will need a wideband controller as well.  This doesnt necessarily have to be a Link CAN lambda, there are many 3rd party 0-5V analog and also 3rd party CAN options, but the Link CAN Lambda does work well.

     

    The CAN wires need to be twisted but dont need to be shielded.  They are fine bundled along side other wires. If using a Link CAN lambda you will need a 120ohm terminating resistor across the two CAN wires near the lambda connection and I would also install the 22uF capacitor across the power wires as per the quick start guide since you arent using a dedicated relay.

     

    Pressure sensors are 3 wires - 5V, sensor ground and signal.  They donot need to be shielded.  You can often splice into the 5V and ground to the TP sensor or MAP sensor.

     

    No shield needed.

     

    What model car is it?

    Massive help as per usual thanks mate! 

    Its a Nissan s15 spec R JDM

  5. So I've currently got my ecu and engine bay harness out of my car which is running a link G4. Going to make a few modifications to it, I've never really played with engine wiring so not 100% sure I'm correct in what I'm thinking so just want to check 

    Im going to put a Wideband 02 sensor in the exhaust instead instead of using the factory one. Is it possible to wire a bosch LSU 4.9 straight to the ecu instead of using a can lambda module or not?

    Im assuming I won't be able to do this and I'll have to use a can lambda? In that case, I will use the factory lambda 12v for the can lambda module and run 2 new wires from the ecu to the can lambda module. Do these 2 new Canbus wires need to be twisted together and shielded from the rest of the loom or just twisted?

    Im also adding fuel pressure and oil temp/pressure sensors. I haven't yet specced the sensors, but I think they all work in the same way? Am I correct in saying that all they require is a signal cable to the ECU and the sensor wothh ground itself? And does it also require a sheild cable or not? If it does require a sheild, is the metal braided style shielded cable good enough? And the braiding earthed to the chassis at only the ecu end? I'm also going to just wire one of these sensors to the signal for the lambda sensor. That should work shouldn't it?

    When I installed my ecu I changed from MAF sensor to IAT sensor. I used 2 of the 3 cables from the MAF sensor. At the time I didn't extend the sheilding as the wires didn't run near any other cables. However now I'm running them in a different direction near other cables, do I need to extend the sheilding on the iat wires? I've included a picture for reference

    Also, the start cable for my AC Compressor and the cables for the AC pressure switch have been cut. From looking at drawings the ac compressor start cable comes from the ecu, does it go through a relay or is it straight from the ecu? It's a struggle to tell!

    I also can't find any info as to where the cables from ac pressure switch go so any info regarding that would be very much appreciated thanks!!
     

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  6. On 7/5/2020 at 9:43 PM, Vaughan said:

    Yup, will be common with ISC stuff and other 12v supplies in the loom.

     

    They cannot, CAN requires special differential hardware, they would need to be wired to one of the CAN plugs on the bottom board (same plug style as the expansion loom but only 5 pins). Also I would de-pin if possible rather than cutting but either will work.

     

    Typically they are twisted around each other  but if you are disassembling the loom enough to twist or wrap the full length you may as well as well just run a fresh pair of wires instead of reusing the O2 sensor ones.

    Just an earth wire to the chassis, CAN uses a differential signal and so doesn't need a reference earth, this earth is for powering the CAN Lambda unit and part of that control involves putting a large amount of current through the wideband sensor heater coil and so using one of the ECU Signal earths could damage the ECU.

    No problem, happy to help.

    One last thing, could the oxy heater and signal now be used for something else... Say an oil pressure sensor? Or are those 2 ports on the ecu now totally redundant? 

     

    Thanks! 

  7. 10 hours ago, Vaughan said:

    Looks like it is a 3 wire sensor which is most likely a 12V, a switched heater ground (typically Aux 7) and the signal which is connected to An Volt 1. To repurpose these for a CAN Lambda you would use the 12V for CAN Lambda power (check that it is ign switched), cut or de-pin the An Volt 1 and Aux 7 wires at the ecu and use them for CANH and CANL and add a ground to the chassis in the engine bay for the last CAN Lambda pin. The risk with doing it this way is you could end up with a lot of noise on the CAN bus as Heater ground and signal wires aren't twisted around each other or shielded from the rest of the loom.

    Hi mate, thanks for that. 

    You're right, The s15 link pinout shows:

    An Volt 1 as oxy signal, so repurpose this and use this as can H for the can lambda module. 

    Aux 7 as the heater ground, so I would repurpose this as can L for the can lambda module. 

    Cant see the 12v anywhere on the pinout specifically for the lambda sensor. Will this just be a common 12v that everything on the loom uses?

    Why would I have to cut them both at the ecu? Can these 2 inputs on the ecu not be configured to be used as a can H and L for the can lambda? Or would they now have to be wired into the expansion loom? 

    When doing this can I wrap the CAN H and CANL (previously oxy signal and oxy heater) wires together to prevent interference? 

    install an earth wire for the can lambda module

    Does the earth need to be an ecu earth or literally just a wire from the can lambda module to the engine bay?

    Apologies for needing it dummed down into simple terms, I just want to make sure I fully understand it as alot of this is new to me. 

    I appreciate your time! 

    Thanks, 

    Adam

    Screenshot_20200703-110205_Adobe Acrobat.jpg

  8. Hi guys, 

    I have an s15 link

    Currently the link ecu is getting its lambda values from an Aem UEGO gauge with a bosh lsu 4.9 Via one of the inputs on the the expansion loom 

    I intend to do away with this gauge and swap to a link can lambda straight to the ecu instead.

    My factory lambda sensor is still connected and working, but I've been told by my mapper its totally useless and for obvious reasons. 

    So, my question is:

    Can the wires for the factory lambda sensor be used to wire in the link can lambda instead? 

    Thanks! 

  9. Noticed a few posts about This but most of them seem to be a bit old. with technology rapidly improving I thought I'd make a new thread

    Has anyone got the link software on a tablet in their car, which can charge and communicate at the same time, and also turn on and off with the ignition? 

    I saw the pinned post about the "real dash" app. Looks great but doesn't have all the features im after unfortunatly and isnt as good as the link software of course.

    Much appreciated 

    Adam

  10. 5 hours ago, robert_horsfall said:

    IAT needs to wired to an AN Temp channel. 

    AN Volt 4 (pin 16) is a voltage input. Rewire to pin 15 or one of the expansion connector AN Temp pins.

    This is how mine is wired & setup. Hope this helps
    409263002_ANTempsetup1.thumb.jpg.31baf14947026e03cc32497979cec5e4.jpg1928401740_ANTempsetup2.thumb.jpg.33dd1f230a2734406e9e3c203f032c5b.jpg

    As said the an volt 4 channel on s15 link can be configured for the IAT, pics were helpful thanks: when doing the set up I keep getting the same menu but there is no selection for me to change sensor type. 

     

    1 hour ago, Adamw said:

    AN Volt 4 is fine to use for a temp sensor on the S15 plug-in, there is a jumper on the bottom board to enable a pull-up on that input.  

     

    So have you definitely got the J8 jumper fitted shorting the two pins together?  Make sure it is a tight fit on the pins and pushed all the way on as I have seen a lose jumper before.

    Another test you can do to confirm is unplug the temp sensor and measure voltage across the pink/blue wires - you should see 5V if the jumper is fitted.

     

    If you attach your tune file someone will check it is set up right.

     

     

    Will check the jumper And the 5v then and if no result will upload the file. Thanks 

  11. Got an s15 link and wired my IAT sensor to the blue and pink wires on the MAF. tried setting an volt 4 to the IAT but its not working? Pull-up resistor is on too. Anybody and idea what's up? 

    Tried following the guide on IAT sensor selection but it still won't read properly. 

    Could someone please walk me through exactly how to set the IAT onto channel anvolt4? 

    Much appreciated 

    Adam

  12.  

    11 hours ago, Stevieturbo said:

    I'd be more interested to know how you can possibly manage that from such a height....twice ?

    You can only put the sensor in from above, but can only see where the put it from below... I was ontop of the lift and someone was under trying to guide me in and it dropped off the bolt and they never caught it lol

    8 hours ago, Simon said:

    Is it one of our sensors we supply or another type?

    One of the link ones mate 

  13. Dropped my knock sensor twice from about 2m high the other day. Checked the resistance of it and its 4.7 mega ohm between the 2 terminals. Fairly sure that means it's goosed but can anyone confirm me please? 

     

    Thanks 

  14. More noob questions sorry, just don't want to do something wrong and destroy something

    I have an s15, the knock sensor loom from the ecu finishes next to the intake manifold, from that point its a sub harness to the sensor about 10 inches long, a 2 pin connector from the main harness with about 10 inches of wire on it. One signal wire and one sheild wire that sort of wraps around the signal wire (isn't terminated to the sensor, but is terminated into the connector at the main harness) 

    The standard knock sensor is a single wire with a sheild wire, I understand the link one is a 2 wire with a sheild wire? 

    Do I just make a new 2 core unshielded subharness from the main harness to the sensor (10 inches) or do I have to incorporate a sheild wire into the new subharness too? Or am I on totally the wrong track? 


    Also, do I just use the factory wires for the boost control solenoid? 


    Much appreciated. 

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  15. 9 minutes ago, Adamw said:

    From the help file:

    CrWjfxj.png

     

    7jUr4oC.png

     

    Assuming you have a S15, the MAF plug will have 3 wires, Black/white is +12V, Blue is AN Volt 4, Pink is sensor ground.  Connect the IAT sensor to the blue and pink wires.  Fit the jumper to J8.

    Wow that really is the best customer support I've ever received! 

     

    Much appreciated! 

     

    Adam

  16. On 9/29/2018 at 8:04 AM, Adamw said:

    The S15 ecu has two expansion ports.  Expansion connector 1 has the 2 temp inputs and 2 volt inputs, your pressure sensors connect to volt inputs.  If you need more than that there are another 4 volt inputs on expansion connector 2.

     

    MZThUWB.png

    So to wire an IAT sensor on an s15, you take 1 wire from the sensor ground and one wire to the An Temp 3 input? Is there no way that the factory MAF wiring can be utilised? 

     

    Cheers mate 

  17. 22 hours ago, Simon said:

    Jump on and download the PC link tuning software. The help file will have 99% of your questions covered.

    also sorry I should have mentioned this, im pretty sure my tuner said that 2 wires off of the MAF sensor (since its not used anymore) can be cut and connected to the IAT sensor and that will feed back to the ecu. is that the case or do I have to run 2 new wires for the IAT sensor to the ecu and connect them? this is what the help file says:

    The Inlet Temperature Sensor must be connected to the Sensor Ground (green) wire and an Analog Temp wire.

  18. 22 hours ago, Simon said:

    Jump on and download the PC link tuning software. The help file will have 99% of your questions covered.

    Hi Simon, I don't seem to be able to find any help information in the help files? Any help would be much appreciated, thanks. 

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