928sg
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Posts posted by 928sg
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the easiest way to go is to just bolt up a 60-2 flywheel modify the starter bracket, and add a spacer to the flywheel sensor and you will be done, as well as set the timing at 318 to start and then dial in the timing with a timing light if needed.
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Mike,
The S4 60-2 flywheel will bolt up, however you will need to modify an S4 starter bracket, or grind on yours quite a bit for the larger timing ring to clear it. You will also need a spacer for the crank sensor as the later blocks use the same crank sensor but the mount is taller to account for the larger timing ring. Since the 85-86 blocks are best to use for stroker engines, pretty much everyone has to go this rout with the modified starter bracket and the spacer. You could also use the 78-79 lower bell housing as it has an integrated starter fitting and doesn't need a starter bracket, but you will need to clearance it as well. Hope this helps.
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Thanks for the explanation. I had no clue how to read this.
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37 minutes ago, essb00 said:
Multiplier correlate to frequency
Duty cycle correlate to voltage RMS value.Thanks~! This was what I was looking for.
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the 6 volt signal was consistent and the square wave was wider and slower at idle vs 2K shown here. My concern is overdriving the tach while I'm trying to get it dialed in. The tach is part of an integrated cluster and new one is 6K USD.
Does multiplier correlate to voltage or frequency?
Does duty cycle correlate to voltage or frequency?
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ended up buying a scope and playing around with it. This was taken from a stock car @ 2K RPM. Looks to be a 6 volt output. how do I configure the tach output to get relatively close to this? I realize I can dial it in after it is running but as I stated above clusters are expensive so I'd rather come in on the low side than the high side.
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already communicating with support. Did some testing and A2 does oscillate to ground like A1 output but I don't have an oscilliscope to really see what the signal looks like.
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identical. Back when I had it running in 2021 you saw the video and thought it was missing. I had other mechanical issues to fix so I didn't think anything about it. but based on this I'm thinking this output may have never worked properly.
I've also attached my config file.
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I have a link Thunder and had my car running (although not well) in 2021. I'm back to getting running again and found that I have no injector output on connection A2 for injector 3. I ohm'd out the wiring, and swapped injector wires with A1 (injector 4) and the injector is good. Then I swapped wires between A1 & A2, and the problem stayed with what ever wire/injector is connected to A2. I found this while doing an injector test. Injector 3 does have the same positive voltage as injector 4.
Any ideas or is there something wrong with the ecu? This isn't anything with the firing order, and I checked out the wiring to make sure it wasn't shorted open, to any other wirs or shorted to ground. -
done~! Thanks~!
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this is what I have spec'd out for the tach output. Clusters are expensive and hard to find so I don't want to cook it.
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here is the current dwell table. This is a 6.4 liter NA motor. I had it running on an initial startup a couple of years ago, but wanted to know if I should adjust any of these cells. I'm just now getting back to the project. How do I go about adding another column for 8K rpm? redline will be 7500 to 7800 RPM
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does the Thunder support PWM fan tach signals as an input?
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I'd rather run the fans based on the actual coolant temp in the radiator....
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to add PWM fans does the Link ecu need to have a temp sensor in the radiator, for it's logic to increase fan speed? my logic would say yes, because the engine temp coolant sensor is on the engine block side of the thermostat. Am I correct in my assumption
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anyone know of a NTC sensor with m22x1.5 threads?
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title says it all. I've already used my temp inputs and wanted to add cooling fans and wanted to add another sensor in the radiator.
Current temp sensors are
Engine coolant (on engine side of thermostat)
Trans temp
Oil Temp
Intake Air Temp
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Link Thunder
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they need to have experience with large displacement (6.4 liters) & quad cams. Tuning TWM ITB'S would be a bonus
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I finally got the base timing set with a timing light @ 318. Sounds totally different than the video linked above, with the timing dialed in. now the fun of syncing 8 throttle bodies. Haven't changed to modelled yet. Trying to focus on doing 1 thing at a time. In IT too many changes at the same time result in problems with no idea where the problem lies. Every time I make a change, I save a copy of the config with a date and time along with notes about what change was made.
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switched table to 3d and still told me file locked for another ecu....
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I have Injector Dynamics ID725's and I've found the Link Tables to import but the tables seem to be locked for a specific ECU. They don't make the 725's anymore so don't have that info on their website. Flow rate info is still available. I haven a fuel pressure sensor, the alcohol content sensor, which will provide fuel temp as well.
I may be able to get the info from their support.
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I set up as traditional to get the engine running, initially, and since I haven't done any tuning yet, would now be the best time to switched to modelled? I have an alcohol content sensor so eventually I will go to modelled multi. What is the consensus?
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I can validate that the T56 has a 17 pulse per rotation output. I'll be testing this soon on my build as well. not anywhere near ready to drive though.
Thunder PCLink settings
in G4+
Posted
factory balancers are 30 years old at best, and new ones are NLA. I'd recommend one of the ATi balancers, and that would give you something to attach a wheel to. Which flywheel are you running that is so difficult to get out?