Kurt_XK

I wired the 4 pin directly to the battery and observed similar results. I also adjusted my runtime parameters to include the lambda errors and noted "error 52." I thought perhaps there maybe a correlation with battery voltage, and the average error, but after reviewing all the times the lambda1 dropped out, I could find no correlation between it and battery voltage. UPDATE: I wired everything back to how it was and did some more test drives. I did note the occurrence of an "error 4." These all seem to be pointing back to a internal issue. What about issues with the lambda sensor itself? Is there any way to rule out the sensor as an issue? Driveway run.llg

I realized I didn't answer your CAN or Analogue question. I have a Fury, I have it wired into the designated internal lambda. I am not sure if that makes it CAN or Analogue. Vaughn and Adam, thanks for the Troubleshooting help. I appreciate the expanation of the error code. That makes sense now. I will start with the 4 pin as Adam suggested.

I've worked on this base map a bit more, but rev 5 is untested. So this was what I was working off of. Jaguar XK rev4.pclr

Adam, I verified my wiring according and connections. Everything is correct. As far as the 12V supply it shares the same circuit as my Engine Position Module, I would find it odd that would be drawing enough current to effect the performance of the wideband. I am willing to give it a try, It just pains me because this is some of my cleanest wiring and I hate to hack it up. The 12V power supply is fed directly from the battery terminal, runs through a relay, a fuse and to the load. In searching for help with this I found this: To me this really describes what a "Lambda Average Error" is. I realize I am focusing on this and not the lambda error 2 which is present, but I appear to be getting data even when this is present. Just one other piece of evidence. Here is a screen capture of the mixture map.... Zones in red seem to correspond to the zones where I have the average error. Zones in green, I have data. I am learning how to use this program more and more everyday, but this just seems to smell like a software or setting issue. Thoughts? Should I just shut up and run the jumper? Thanks.

Hoping someone can help me out. I am receiving a "CL Lambda Status: Lockout: Lambda Average Error" I am trying to dial-in my base map and this error condition is making it challenging. It seems to occur when TP goes to "0" and the engine is coming down to idle. I have spent a fair amount of time in the idle ranges trying to get the engine to run properly. It would make sense that I have had some real crazy values in there that may be skewing the "average" something wicked. Once I start driving, the O2 sensor wakes up, does its thing and starts providing values but it takes forever and by then I am usually out of road... I am running a single wideband sensor. Thanks Monday late run.llg

Unfortunately I have been unable to make any real progress since my last post. I have adjusted the settings as described above multiple times and the Trig1 Arming(V) and Trig2 Arming(V) remain constant, regardless if the puck is plugged in or not. I suspect that there may be an issue with the puck. I contacted AEM for help with troubleshooting, and we determined the next step would be to send it in for diagnosis/repair etc. This is will end up costing me a great deal of time. I really want to be sure that I have exhausted all lines of effort before sending this part off. Is there a way to perform an input test to the triggers, Just to rule out a wiring or LINK issue? (Also, the faults shown on the last screen capture were cleared and have not returned)

Could it I wired everything as described above and the ECU was recognizing the AEM engine position sensor, I was able to watch the triggers activate on the screen. After about of a week sitting I returned to the car, cranked it over and no inputs were found on the ecu. Jiggling wires, ensuring power etc. I havent been able to generate a signal. Could it be that some of my settings got screwed up?

I just tried this and was able to get it to connect. The LED is now bright. Do you think a ground issue may be the likely cause? UPDATE: Confirmed it was a ground issue. Thank you for the assistance!

Problem: Can't connect to ECU from computer. When using "auto" I get an orange box and "searching" but never a connection. When using manual and trying to connect after selecting "COM3" I get a red box and "Offline." Background: I am working on a brand-new build/installation with a FURY ECU. I am running Windows 10 version 1909. I have PCLINK installed version: 5.6.7.3632 I have the USB cable plugged into the top plug (one with a rubber o-ring). In Windows device manager it is recognized in "Ports (COM & LPT)" " Link Engine Management USB ECU (COM3)" there is NO yellow triangle or exclamation. I believe I have the most updated drivers installed. I downloaded them and when I tried to install them, windows informed me they were the most up to date. What I've tried: tried switching baud rates. Selected new baud rate, hit connect, and powered off and on the ECU (via keyed ignition switch) Ensured ECU is powered by observing a "blue light" on front of ECU. (although dim) Verified I had +12VDC powering ECU. Closed PCLINK, restarted Windows, opened PCLINK and tried to connect. Checked "slow connection" tried to connect with same results.

Thank you very much for the guidance!

I have a G4+ Fury that I am using to run a Jaguar XK engine. (Straight 6, double overhead cam). I am using an AEM Engine Position Module (puck) to replace the distributor. https://www.aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-3250 Engine Position Module Puck.pdf My question is concerning how to wire the EPM to the Fury. The EPM utilizes 4 wires: A 12V switched power, "Crank", "CAM" and a ground. My instinct would be to wire Trigger 1 to Crank, Trigger 2 to Cam, and use the +8V fed from the ECU to power the EPM. But that is where my instincts run out. The trigger inputs come in the form of shielded (black and Gray) trigger input cables which contain two wires plus shielding. I am posting this because it is unclear to me how to wire up the additional wires. I have pinned out the black and red wires, from the "A" Loom but am unsure about the white wires, and if they are the ground connections? How should I terminate the white wires contained in the bundle? Also, does the shielding need to be grounded or terminated? Or does it just need to be heat-shrinked? Appreciate the assitance